摘要
以质量守恒方程、动量守恒方程和能量守恒方程为基础,建立了当波浪正向入射时在击浪带内、外的波浪变形模型,可用以分析在崩破波情况下波浪的浅水效应、波浪增减水及波高分布,并能够适应任意床面形态,通过试验研究,检验了在击浪带内、外的波高分布。
Based on the equations of conservation of mass, momentum and energy, a theoretical model for wave deformation in and outside the surf zone was obtained. It can be used for calculating the wave shoaling, wave set-up and set-down and wave height distribution in and outside the surf zone in case of spiling breaker form. For verification and comparison, a lot of laboratory experiments relating to the wave height distribution across the surf zone were conducted in wave flume. The agreement between theoretical and experimental results were well.
出处
《海洋通报》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
1992年第4期1-6,共6页
Marine Science Bulletin
关键词
海洋
波浪
变形
破波带
Surf zone Wave deformation Analogue test
