摘要
关于宋代女性日常服饰颜色的观点抵牾杂驳,聚讼纷纭。其呈象与体义常以传世绘画为端绪,然则,用色理念与生活实践之间存在张力与裂隙。宋代女性生活色彩丰富多变,色彩研究必须认识到历史的参与者,即“人”的复杂性,并从日常生活的多重视角出发,才能在丰富纷杂的历史材料中括撮出女服色彩的具体写真。褙子是宋朝时期最具有特点和代表性服饰,适用人群极其广泛,充分体现了当时女性的审美趣味与生活,需求。本文通过文献资料调研、图像研究、比较分析等研究方法将莫里斯符号学三分法与日本NCD色彩意向及SPSS统计方法结合,系统研究了宋制女服褙子色彩的符义、符义与符用特征,构建并拓展了中华传统服饰色彩研究的规制理路,研究成果直接关系到服饰艺术的基本问题,且观照服饰艺术研究的前沿领域,具有开阔的跨学科视野。
Perspectives on Song Dynasty women's daily clothing colors are diverse and contradictory,with numerous scholarly disputes.While traditional analyses often begin with handed-down paintings,significant tension exists between color concepts and actual life practices.Women's color usage in the Song Dynasty was rich and variable.Effective color research must acknowledge the complexity of historical participants and approach the subject from multiple perspectives of daily life to extract specific characteristics of women's clothing colors from complex historical materials.The Beizi,being the most characteristic and representative clothing item of the Song Dynasty with its wide applicability,fully reflects women's aesthetic tastes and practical needs of that era.Through literature review,image research,and comparative analysis,this study combines Morris's trichotomy of semiotics with Japanese NCD colorintention and SPSS statistical methods to systematically examine the semiotic meaning,significance,and usage characteristics of women's Beizi colors in the Song Dynasty.The research constructs and expands regulatory approaches to traditional Chinese clothing color studies,addressing fundamental issues in clothing art while engaging with interdisciplinary cutting-edge research areas.
作者
滕兆媛
李泉霖
王聪
TENG Zhaoyuan;LI Quanlin;WANG Cong
出处
《上海视觉》
2025年第4期34-43,共10页
Shanghai Vision
关键词
莫里斯符号学
三分法
宋制女服褙子
色彩研考
Morris Semiotics
Trichotomy
Women's Beizi of The Song Dynasty
Color Research
