摘要
盘扣是重要的中国传统服装元素,在民国时期发展至顶峰,民国盘扣的造型艺术及流行变迁受到西风东渐的影响。文章根据历史文献、实物和图像等资料,梳理了中国传统盘扣的历史沿革,分析了民国盘扣的造型艺术,探讨了民国盘扣流行变迁,并管窥民国社会文化观念变化,对中国传统服饰文化的传承发展提供了合理依据。研究表明:一字扣体现极简风格,盘花扣体现装饰艺术,其他盘扣体现材料艺术,盘扣制作技艺弘扬了中国传统手工艺的工匠精神。民国一字扣的渐变是对传统服饰的延续,盘花扣在民国时期突然流行,其嬗变受到欧洲新艺术运动的影响。
Button knot as one of essential elements of traditional Chinese clothing evolved to its summit during the Republic of China.Its patterning art and popularity evolution during the Republic of China were affected by the western trend into east.Based on historical literature,real objects and images,the historical evolution of Chinese ancient traditional button knots was sorted out,the patterning art in the Republic of China was analyzed,and the popularity evolution of button knots in the Republic of China was discussed.Through an investigation of the changes in social and cultural concepts in the Republic of China,this study is hoped to provide a reasonable basis for the inheritance and innovation of traditional Chinese clothing culture.The study has shown that one-style-button-knots manifest minimalist style,flower-style-button-knots manifest decorative art,other-style-button-knots reflect material art.The button knot manufacturing craftsmanship carries forward the craftsman spirit of traditional Chinese handicrafts.The gradual change of one-style-button-knots in the Republic of China is a continuation of traditional clothing.There was a sudden popularity of flower-style-button-knots during the Republic of China,and the evolution was influenced by Art Nouveau.
作者
冒绮
MAO Qi(School of Textiles and Fashion,Shanghai University of Engineering Science,Shanghai 201620,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2021年第5期94-100,共7页
Journal of Silk
基金
上海市艺术科学规划项目(YB2018A05)
上海高校青年骨干教师国内访问学者计划项目(沪教委人[2020]30号)。
关键词
民国
盘扣
造型艺术
流行变迁
西风东渐
盘花
传统服饰
the Republic of China
button knots
patterning art
popularity evolution
western trend into east
twining flowers
traditional clothing
