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大明衣冠今何在 被引量:32

Where are the Hats and Clothes of Ming Dynasty Nowadays?
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摘要 在17世纪中叶以后出使北京的朝鲜使者的旅行记录中,对“薙发易服”后满清王朝的服装有大量尖刻和严厉的批评,通过这种批评可以看到,明清易代以后,朝鲜人对中国文化认同的巨大变化。朝鲜人对满清服装的鄙夷,其实来自一种文化立场,他们固执地认定汉族才是中华帝国的正统,大明衣冠才是中华文化的正宗,而满清却是蛮夷,穿满清服装则是文化沦落的象征。同时,他们想像在戏台演出、使团朝觐以及妇女衣着等方面保存的旧时衣冠,能够再度唤起汉族的历史记忆,这表现了当时朝鲜人坚定的“中华”观念以及这种观念后面的民族主义情绪。他们对汉族服装的斥责,并没有充分理解一般民众“遵时”和“从俗”的习惯,因此在这种关于中国的批评中,既有正当的朝鲜民族主义感情,也有维护正统的偏见和过于严厉的高调。 Numerous severe and sharp criticisms of the clothes of the Qing dynasty after the “hair-cutting and clothes-changing” can be found in the travel notes of the Korean ambassadors who were sent to Beijing after the mid-17th century. An enormous transformation of the Korean identification of Chinese culture can be felt in these criticisms. It can be said that the scorn of the Koreans to the clothes of the Qing dynasty had its origin in a certain kind of cultural position from which they took the Hans as the orthodox of Imperial China and the clothes of the Ming dynasty as the orthodox of Chinese culture. While the Manchus were barbarians, wearing the clothes of the Qing dynasty would be taken as an obvious sign of cultural degradation. Moreover, they thought that the Hans' historical memory could be aroused by wearing the old Hats and clothes on the occasions of stage performance, the pilgrimage of ambassadors in the Royal Court and the daily llfe of women. A firm notion of “Chinese” in the minds of the Koreans and the nationalist emotions behind that had their expressions in their actions. Their blame of the Hans' clothes-changing showed that they had little sympathy and understanding of the ordinary people's choice of conforming to the custom and necessity. Therefore, we can find both nationalist emotions of the Koreans which were reasonable and the prejudices and some time too severe exaggerations which were aimed to maintain the tradition.
作者 葛兆光
机构地区 清华大学历史系
出处 《史学月刊》 CSSCI 北大核心 2005年第10期41-48,共8页 Journal of Historical Science
关键词 明清 薤发易服 朝鲜 《燕行录》 历史记忆 民族主义 Ming and Qing dynasties hair cutting and clothes changing Korea Yan Xing Lu historical memory nationalism
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