摘要
对于含活性物配方来说 ,配方师们最关心的就是如何更大程度地显现活性物的功效。这将面临矛盾 :一方面要使活性物在配方中的溶解度最大化 ,这样可以提供有效浓度 ;另一方面为了促进活性物更容易传递进入皮肤角质层 ,要求活性物在配方中的溶解度要降低。这个矛盾将可以通过RPI(相对极性)理论来得到解决。在该方法中 ,先根据RPI理论挑选一个对活性物溶解度尽可能高的基础润肤油脂 ,然后再利用一个辅助润肤油脂来减少该溶解度到一个可接受和合适的水平 ,这样就可实现活性物配方的功效性最大化。虽然研究还发现乳化剂的选择也很重要 ,但是其基本原理则还不很清楚。
From a rather theoretical approach based on the polarity of the active ingredient,the stratum corneum and the oil phase,the relative polarity index was established that enables the selection of a suitable emollient for ensuring skin penetration of the active ingredient.Practical ex-amples subsequently show the validity of this approach that demonstrates that one can regulate the delivery of an active molecule(and therefore the efficacy of a cosmetic formulation)by selection and control of the emollient system.Cosmetic formulations are generally quite complex mix-tures,and subsequent experiments using different emulsifier systems indicated that this component of a cosmetic formulation could also have an impact on steering the active ingredient to the right layer of the skin,although it is too early to be able to derive general rules from this.
出处
《日用化学品科学》
CAS
2004年第4期38-43,共6页
Detergent & Cosmetics
关键词
活性成分
润肤剂
配方设计
辛醇/水分配系数
皮肤传递
化妆品
active ingredients
emollient selection
formulation design
octanol/water partition coefficient
skin distribution profiles
