摘要
联合国外交礼宾建议各国外交代表穿着西装或民族服装递交全权证书,然而在具体外交实践中,各国外交代表在民族服装的表达上展现出两种着装方式:一是坚持传统民族服装;二是结合西装着装体系创新发展出三种“民族化”着装范式,即西装外套+民族内搭、西装套装+民族配饰、西装套装+民族元素。这两种着装方式反映了各国在民族性和国际化之间的抉择,以及通过“柔性”与“全球本土化”外交着装策略来实现两者之间的平衡,继而服务于自身的外交目标与国家形象塑造。希望本研究有助于中国民族服装在外交礼宾场合的守正与创新。
This paper explores the dress expression of national dress and nationalized dress in diplomatic protocol of the United Nations through literature and image.The Diplomatic Protocol of the United Nations recommends that diplomatic representative of each country wear suit or national dress when presenting credentials.However,in specific diplomatic practice,the expression of national dress among diplomatic representatives diverges into two dressing approaches:one adheres strictly to traditional national dress,while the other innovatively develops three dressing paradigms of“nationalized”dress(Culturally-adapted Clothing)by integrating western suit system—namely,suit paired with national innerwear,suit sets complemented with national accessories,and suit sets incorporating national elements.These two approaches reflect the choices nations make between preserving their national identity and embracing internationalization,as well as the balance achieved through“soft”and“glocalized”diplomatic dressing strategies to serve diplomatic objectives and shape national image.As an arena of multiculturalism and multilateral diplomacy,the United Nations’practical implementation of protocol rules and the varying interpretations of these rules by different countries clearly reflect the visible and invisible power dynamics within the global order.In the international context of advocating for“dialogue over confrontation,”diplomatic dress,as a micro yet intuitive carrier for expressing diplomatic stances,serves as a“veil”for power struggles in a“more subtle and gentle”manner.The relationship between national dress and suit is not a result of a“clash of civilizations,”but rather a manifestation of global multipolarity,and“should be viewed as an expression of‘cultural consciousness’developed out of the needs for national development and cultural heritage.”It is hoped that this study will contribute to preserving the essence and fostering innovation of Chinese national dress in diplomatic protocol.It may provide innovative theoretical perspectives and paradigmatic references for Chinese diplomats to deeply integrate into a multipolar world characterized by“harmony in diversity”and the building of a community with a shared future for humanity through national dress,as well as inspire Chinese diplomatic dress in the new era to demonstrate its inherent cultural confidence and vitality.
作者
苏芮
楚艳
贺阳
Su Rui;Chu Yan;He Yang
出处
《艺术设计研究》
北大核心
2026年第1期128-134,144,共8页
Art & Design Research
基金
国家社科基金艺术学项目“新时代的中国外交礼仪服饰文化体系构建研究”(项目编号:23BG101)
教育部服务国家特殊需求博士人才培养项目“中国传统服饰文化抢救传承与设计创新人才培养”(项目编号:NHFZ20250208)
北京市属高校新兴交叉学科平台建设项目北京服装学院“交叉学科——中国服装设计话语体系构建”(项目编号:JCXK232407)的阶段性成果。
关键词
联合国
外交礼宾
民族服装
“民族化”服装
国家形象
The United Nations
Diplomatic Protocol
National Dress
Nationalized Dress
National Image
