摘要
有元一代,忽必烈推行汉法,将游牧民族用以表征身份认同的“系带饰带”这一具身化符号,转换纳入中原汉地以等级区分为核心的衣冠制度体系,形成“各从本俗”的复合型服饰礼制秩序,成为构建“华夷一统”权力秩序、实现社会秩序整合的重要标志。作为游牧民族服饰的象征性符码,“系带饰带”在保留蒙古本俗的基础上吸纳中原法礼、条格等礼制因素,与汉制服饰之系带与佩器礼制融合,不仅重塑了元代官服制度体系,亦促成中华服饰文化礼俗秩序的重构。
During the Yuan Dynasty,Kublai Khan implemented Han laws and regulations,incorporating the“belts and decorative ribbons”——an embodied symbol of identity for nomadic people——into the dress codes of the Central Plains,which was centered on hierarchical differentiation.This led to a composite dress etiquette system of“each following their own customs”,which became an important indicator in constructing the political framework of“Hua-Yi unification”(the unification of Han and non-Han people)and integrating social order.As a symbolic code of northern nomadic dress,the“belts and decorative ribbons”retained Mongolian traditions while absorbing the etiquette elements of the Central Plains such as laws and regulations,and merged with the belt and accessory etiquette system of the Han people’s dress.This not only reshaped the official dress system of the Yuan Dynasty but also facilitated the reconstruction of the cultural and ritual order of China’s dress culture.
作者
苏日娜
海日
Su Rina;Hai Ri(School of Design,Inner Mongolia Arts University,Hohhot 010028,China;School of Ethnology and Sociology,Minzu University of China,Beijing 100081,China)
出处
《西北民族大学学报(哲学社会科学版)》
北大核心
2026年第1期156-167,共12页
Journal of Northwest Minzu University(Philosophy and Social Sciences)
基金
国家社会科学基金项目“中国古代北方多民族服饰文化融合及中华文化认同实证研究”(项目编号:19ZDA183)。
关键词
元代
系带饰带
服饰文化交融
双轨制
the Yuan Dynasty
belts and decorative ribbons
dress culture integration
a dual-track system
