摘要
为系统梳理国内外服装褶皱研究的演进脉络与前沿趋势,选取2005—2024年中国知网(CNKI)数据库的363篇中文文献以及Web of Science(WOS)数据库的580篇英文文献,采用CiteSpace可视化分析方法制作研究图谱。结果表明:中国科学院和东华大学在服装褶皱国际学术交流中发挥重要桥梁作用;国内服装褶皱研究可分为起步萌芽期、迅速成长期、拓展期三个阶段,国际服装褶皱研究可划分为探索期、爆发期、深化期三个阶段;研究热点涵盖“服装造型与设计方法”“面料工艺与结构优化”“视觉表现与智能设计”及“经典品牌与风格”四个主题。未来服装褶皱将向功能化、文化融合与科技创新三大方向发展,呈现多学科交叉融合的特征。研究结果可为服装褶皱研究创新与跨领域融合提供理论依据与方法支撑。
Garment pleats not only affect the visual style of clothing,but also involve key factors such as fabric adaptability,structural stability,and wearing comfort.To summarize and refine the research hotspots and cutting-edge trends of garment pleats at home and abroad,363 valid Chinese documents from the China National Knowledge Infrastructure(CNKI)database and 580 valid English documents from the Web of Science(WOS)database from 2005 to 2024 were selected,and the CiteSpace visualization research method was used to generate a research map.Studies on garment pleats primarily focused on their artistic applications.Around 2015,designers such as Issey Miyake pioneered modern explorations of pleating techniques,driving research towards structural functionality.Since then,the focus of pleats research has expanded beyond aesthetic value to structural optimization,with an increasing emphasis on the integration of functionality and decoration.Although existing studies cover the historical evolution,aesthetic expression,and functional innovation of pleats,significant differences remain in the research focus and development paths among domestic and foreign scholars in this field.Currently,research output at home and abroad on garment pleats has shown an overall upward trend since 2005,with the research scope expanding from garment styling to fabric technology,structural optimization,and digital design.Chinese Academy of Sciences and Donghua University play a bridging role in international academic exchanges regarding garment pleats,and relevant domestic or foreign scholars are relatively dispersed,lacking a stable core author group.The evolution of garment pleats in China can be divided into three stages:the initial emergence period(2005—2010),characterized by a focus on traditional techniques and aesthetic exploration;the rapid growth period(2011—2018),centered on the study of fundamental characteristics;and the expansion period(2019—2024),marked by the integration of multifunctionality and digital technologies.Internationally,the development of garment pleats also follows three stages:the exploratory period(2005—2015),emphasizing foundational research on pleat quantification;the breakthrough period(2016—2020),driven by interdisciplinary integration and transformation;and the expansion period(2021—2024),highlighting the deepening application of intelligent and digital technologies.The research hotspots of domestic and international garment pleats can be categorized into four main areas:1)"garment styling and design methods"with a research direction of innovative design,aesthetic shaping,and structural formation,2)"fabric techniques and structural optimization"integrating functionality with aesthetics,3)"visual expression and intelligent design"that takes into account personal expression and smart optimization,and 4)"classic brands and styles"represented by Issey Miyake.Future research directions for garment pleats,both domestically and internationally,should focus on three key areas:expanding functionality and interdisciplinary applications,such as in smart clothing,medical rehabilitation and sports equipment;enhancing cross-cultural exchanges,including the fusion of Eastern and Western techniques and the reinterpretation of pleated elements from traditional ethnic clothing in contemporary fashion;and integrating advanced technologies to unlock new possibilities for the research and application of garment pleats.
作者
张青夏
许旭兵
ZHANG Qingxia;XU Xubing(College of Fashion and Design,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)
出处
《现代纺织技术》
北大核心
2025年第12期88-97,共10页
Advanced Textile Technology
基金
教育部哲学社会科学研究重大课题攻关项目(21JZD048)。
