摘要
本文以苏州档案馆藏部分外销丝织品为研究对象,通过文献考据与实物测绘,梳理其纹样类型、构图规律及文化寓意,提出“元素分析—样本提取—适配设计”的纹样活化路径。借助数字化技术对如意纹、园林景窗等典型纹样进行高精度扫描与矢量化解构,提取核心母题并建立模块化数据库,结合参数化设计工具实现纹样比例、密度与色彩的动态调适。在女装设计实践中,采用“非遗工艺+工业技术”的复合模式,通过提花织造还原图案渐变,配合印染技术重构外销传统纹样空间韵律。试图阐述外销丝织纹样在当代女装中的创新应用范式,为江南非遗的时尚转化提供兼具文化延续性与市场可行性的方法论参考。
In this study,we took some export silk fabrics in the Suzhou archives as the research object,sorted out their pattern types,composition rules and cultural meanings through literature research and physical mapping.and proposed the pattern activation path of"element analysis-sample extraction-adaptive design".With the help of digital technology,high-precision scanning and vector deconstruction of typical patterns such as ruyi patterns and garden scenery windows are carried out,the core motif is extracted and a modular database is established,and the dynamic adjustment of pattern proportion,density and color is realized by combining parametric design tools.In the practice of women's clothing design,the composite mode of"intangible cultural heritage technology+industrial technology"is adopted,the gradient of the pattern is restored through jacquard weaving,and the spatial rhythm of traditional patterns for export is reconstructed with printing and dyeing technology.This paper attempts to elaborate the innovative application paradigm of export silk patterns in contemporary women's clothing,and provides a methodological reference with both cultural continuity and market feasibility for the fashion transformation of Jiangnan cultural heritage.
作者
刘夏君
鲍宇航
黄永利
Xiajun Liu;Yuhang Bao;Yongli Huang(School of Textile,Apparel and Design,Suzhou university of Technology,Suzhou 215500,Jiangsu,China)
出处
《江苏丝绸》
2025年第5期26-31,44,共7页
Jiangsu Silk
基金
2023年教育部人文社会科学研究规划基金项目“苏州丝绸档案中江南丝织品纹样设计图谱研究”项目资助成果(23YJA760037)
常熟理工学院培育校级科研创新团队“江南丝绸档案文化与设计基因研究团队”项目(2023)阶段性成果
大学生创新创业训练计划项目“苏州光明丝织厂档案中的丝织品纹样整理与设计研究”项目资助(XJDC2024278)。
关键词
苏州
丝织品
传统文化
纹样
外销
Suzhou
silk products
patterns
traditional culture
modernist painting
innovation
application
