摘要
风浪理论,自Sverdrup与Munk于1947年提出其理论以来,已有了相当大的发展。十多年间,有不少理论被提出,其中较重要而常用的,如Sverdrup与Munk的有效波理论,的三维风浪理论,Pierson与Neumann的波谱理论和文圣常(以下简称文氏)的普遍风浪谱理论。基于这四种理论来预报各阶段的风浪的波高和周期,固然常给出互不相同的结果,然而,即使以其中任一方法来预报尚处在同时随风区和风时成长的风浪的波高和周期,对于两者也都给出往往彼此不等的两个值。
In this paper a new wind wave spectrum is proposed.During the course of the wave formation,the wind speed and duration together with the fetch appear in the spectrum as parameters,and if either the duration or the fetch has attained the magnitudes required for the fully developed waves,the spectrum exhibits features similar to those of the growing wind wave spectra of Prof.Wen’s.As the waves become fully developed,only the wind speed is left in the spectrum as a parameter,the spectrum being thereby reduced to a form similar to that of Roll-Fischer’s.The proposed spectrum not only simplifies wind wave analyses,but also permits such important characteristics of the wind waves as height,period,and fetch necessary for the full development of waves to be expressed in analytic forms instead of diagrams and charts.The results based on the proposed spectrum have been compared with observations;so far as the cases examined are concerned,the results here obtained show better agreements than those given by the currently employed theories within the wind speed range of 6-20 metres per second.
作者
汪炳祥
WANG BING-XIANG(Shantung Institute of Fisheries)
出处
《海洋与湖沼》
1962年第3期142-160,共19页
Oceanologia Et Limnologia Sinica
