摘要
宋·李嵩《听阮图》是研究宋代乐伎与侍女服饰的珍贵图像史料。文章以该画作为核心案例,结合宋元时期壁画、石刻及出土文物,采用图像与实物互证的方法,系统分析了宋代不同阶层女性服饰的形制特征、身份标识及其社会成因。研究表明,画中乐伎与侍女在发型、发饰及体服上均呈现显著差异:乐伎服饰华美,如高束裙裾、披帛及繁复发饰,凸显其表演性与观赏功能;侍女则多着窄袖短襦、圆领袍衫等简便服饰,发型简洁,符合其劳役身份与实用需求。文章通过视觉分析揭示了服饰在宋代社会中的阶层建构作用,为中国古代服饰史与社会史研究提供了实证支持。
Ting Ruan Tu(Listening to the Ruan)by Li Song is a valuable pictorial source for studying the attire of musicians and attendants in the Song dynasty.Taking this painting as a core case study,this study employs a method of cross-referencing images with physical artefacts.It systematically analyses the stylistic characteristics,status markers,and social determinants of women's clothing across different social strata in the Song dynasty.Research indicates that musicians and attendants in the painting exhibit marked differences in hairstyles,hair ornaments,and garments:musicians wore lavish attire—such as high-waisted skirts,draped silk scarves,and intricate hairpieces—emphasising their performative and decorative roles;attendants predominantly wore practical garments like narrow-sleeved short tunics and round-collared robes,with simple hairstyles befitting their labourer status and utilitarian needs.Through visual analysis,it reveals the role of clothing in constructing social hierarchies within Song society,providing empirical support for research into ancient Chinese costume history and social history.
作者
吴丹
谭国亮
WU Dan;TAN Guoliang(School of Arts,South China Agricultural University,Guangzhou 510000,China)
出处
《西部皮革》
2025年第21期142-145,共4页
West Leather
关键词
《听阮图》
服饰
宋代
仕女画
painting of Listening to the Ruan
costume
Song Dynasty
painting of ladies
