摘要
1955年至1957年的“美化服装运动”,是新中国第一次通过服装的视觉运动初步构建身体政治的尝试。本文以当时刊行的服装图像为研究对象,引入“话语”理论,解释时尚如何在新中国社会主义建设中发挥其作用。在这场运动中涌现的服装设计,可以为服装的中国化和现代化问题提供实践经验。而从当时服装的设计图像中,我们可以初窥新中国时尚本土话语的构建,并观察“美化服装运动”中所体现的新中国时尚萌芽及其影响。
The“Beautify Clothing Movement”(1955~1957)marked the first instance in which the newly founded People’s Republic of China began to construct a socialist body politic through a visual clothing movement.This article examines representations of clothing in publications of the time,introducing the concept of discourse to analyze how fashion was utilized in the socialist construction.The clothing designs that emerged during this period provide practical experience for the chinization and modernization of fashion design.Through these visual materials,one can discern the early formation of a localized fashion discourse in New China,as well as the nascent and foundational role that fashion played within the larger socialist cultural project.
作者
钟婼嫘
周博
Zhong Ruolei;Zhou Bo
出处
《艺术设计研究》
北大核心
2025年第5期13-21,135,共10页
Art & Design Research
基金
国家社科基金艺术学重点项目“新中国设计史研究”(项目编号:21AG012)的阶段性成果。
关键词
新中国时尚
美化服装
时尚传播
服装画
民族时尚
New China fashion
Beautify clothing
Fashion communication
Costume painting
National fashion