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解放运动与运动解放:中国近代女子体操服与身体观流变

Liberation Movement and Physical Liberation:The Evolution of Women's Gymnastic Costume and Body View in Modern China
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摘要 清末民初,西方体育运动和服饰文化传入中国并深刻影响了民众的生活方式。其中,体操是近代中国女子体育发展最早的项目,体操服的变化生动反映了近代中国社会身体观念和着装观念的变迁。通过对近代报刊杂志刊载的照片、漫画、广告等图片材料以及相关新闻报道、评论和文学作品等文字材料的分析,可将中国近代女子体操服的款式特征归纳为清末民初“平直风貌”、二十年代“改良与折衷”、三四十年代“取法西洋”。这3个阶段的款式变化受近代“放足运动”和“天乳运动”2场身体解放运动的影响,反映了体操服承载的不同身体观念,为理解中国近代妇女解放的历史进程提供新的视角。 In the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China,Western sports and clothing culture were introduced into Chi-na and significantly influenced the way of life of the people.Among them,gymnastics was the earliest developed women's sport in modern China,and the change of women's gymnastics costumes vividly reflected the changes of body concepts and dress concepts in modern Chinese society.Through the analysis of photos,cartoons,advertisements,and other pictorial materials published in modern newspapers and magazines,as well as related news reports,commentaries,and literary works,the style characteristics of modern Chinese women's gymnastics clothing were summarized as the"straight style"in the late Qing Dynasty,"improvement and compro-mise"in the 1920s,and"Westernized styles"in the 1930s and 1940s.The style changes in these three stages were influenced by the two modern body liberation movements,the"non-foot-binding campaign"and the"non-breast-binding campaign",reflecting the dif-ferent body concepts embodied by women's gymnastics costumes and providing a new perspective for understanding the historical process of women's liberation in modern China.
作者 王子宁 刘瑜 WANG Zining;LIU Yu(School of Fashion and Art Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)
出处 《纺织科技进展》 2025年第8期58-62,共5页 Progress in Textile Science & Technology
关键词 女子体操服 运动服装 身体解放 民国时期 women's gymnastics costume sportswear physical liberation the Republic of China
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