摘要
为解决植物转印染服饰设计同质化问题,通过系统性实验探究植物转印染工艺与植物染料的交互作用对服饰设计的影响。基于4类植物(桉叶、乌桕叶、玫瑰花瓣、葡萄叶)、3种天然纤维面料(棉布、桑蚕丝、羊毛)及3种媒染剂(明矾、硫酸铜、醋酸铁),采用蒸染转印法分析植物染料的显色性、形态特征及其与面料、媒染剂的协同效应。实验通过色差值量化显色差异,结合化学机制深入探讨色相变化与图案清晰度的影响因素。结果表明:单宁酸含量决定图案清晰度;蛋白质纤维(桑蚕丝、羊毛)因分子结构优势显色更饱和;醋酸铁通过Fe3+络合显著改变色相。依据实验结果,应用转印染工艺,通过植物图案的多元组合、色彩的调和对比、面料的虚实转化进行服饰设计实践。研究成果为天然染料染色工艺优化与个性化服饰设计提供理论依据,对推动绿色染整技术创新及差异化产品开发具有实践价值。
The influence of the interaction between the plant transfer printing and dyeing process and plant dyes on clothing design was explore through systematic experiments in order to solve the homogenization problem of plant transfer printing and dyeing clothing design.Based on four types of plants(eucalyptus leaves,sapium setalum leaves,rose petals,and grape leaves),three types of natural fiber fabrics(cotton cloth,mulberry silk,and wool),and three mordants(alum,copper sulfate,and ferric acetate),the color development,morphological characteristics of plant dyes,and their synergistic effects with fabrics and mordants were analyzed by the steam dyeing transfer method.The experiment quantified the color development differences through a colorimeter(ΔE value),and deeply explored the influencing factors of hue changes and pattern clarity in combination with chemical mechanisms.The experimental results show that the tannic acid content determines the clarity of the pattern.Protein fibers(such as mulberry silk and wool)show more saturated colors due to their molecular structure advantages.Ferric acetate significantly alters the hue through Fe 3+complexation.Based on the experimental results,the transfer printing and dyeing process was applied.Through the diverse combination of plant patterns,the harmonious contrast of colors,and the transformation of the virtual and real of fabrics,the practice of clothing design was carried out.The research results provide a theoretical basis for the optimization of natural dye dyeing processes and personalized clothing design,and have practical value for promoting technological innovation in green dyeing and finishing and the development of differentiated products.
作者
曹梦雅
CAO Mengya(School of Design,Zhoukou Normal University,Zhoukou,Henan 466000,China)
出处
《毛纺科技》
北大核心
2025年第7期51-57,共7页
Wool Textile Journal
关键词
植物转印染
植物染料
染色实验
服饰设计
plant transfer dyeing
plant dye
dyeing experiment
clothing design
