摘要
中国传统苎麻织物,又称夏布,是麻织物的典型代表,也是我国历史最为悠久的纺织品之一。传统夏布的特点在于使用苎麻天然长纤维手工绩接制纱所呈现出来的挺括、光泽、韧性等面料特性,而原料处理、绩麻制纱、整经上浆等一系列针对苎麻半脱胶长纤维进行处理的织造前工艺正是形成夏布面料特性的关键所在,并以方向性特征贯穿整个工艺过程。通过长时间的文献研究,实地调研与考证,理清传统夏布织造前工艺与方向性特征之间的关系,分析其成因,并通过手绘图解的方式,详细解读了夏布织造前工艺中方向性特征的原理和细节,以此提出夏布传承保护的价值和意义,为夏布工艺核心技术的保护及其他传统麻织物工艺的研究和复原奠定了基础。
Chinese traditional ramie fabric,also known as ramie cloth,is a typical representative of bast fabric and one of the oldest textiles in China.The characteristics of traditional ramie cloth lie in the fabric characteristics such as crisp,luster and toughness presented by hand ply-joint yarn made of ramie natural long fibers.And a series of pre-weaving processes,such as raw material processing,hemp yarn making,warping and sizing,for ramie semi-degummed long fibers,are the key to forming the characteristics of traditional ramie cloth,and run through the entire process with the characteristics of"direction".Through long-term literature research,field investigation and textual research,this paper clarifies the relationship between traditional ramie cloth technology and ramie fiber directivity,and analyzes its causes.Through hand-drawn interpretation,the principle and details of directional characteristics in the process flow of ramie cloth are interpreted in detail,so as to put forward the value and significance of inheritance and protection of ramie cloth,which lays a foundation for the protection of core technology of ramie cloth process and the research and restoration of other traditional bast fabric processes.
作者
王悦
何酉
滕雅娟
WANG Yue;HE You;TENG Yajuan(Academy of Arts&Design,Tsinghua University,Beijing 100084,China;Folk Art&Craft of Natural Materials Studio,Beijing 101399,China)
出处
《东华大学学报（社会科学版）》
2023年第3期45-52,共8页
Journal of Donghua University:Social Science
基金
2020年度北京市社会科学基金规划项目“生态文明价值导向下的精造夏布服饰创新设计研究”(项目编号:20YTB015)。
关键词
夏布
传统工艺
织造前工艺
方向性特征
ramie cloth
traditional handicraft
pre-weaving process
directional features
