摘要
随着刺绣实用品的日益广泛应用,绣品表面摩擦受损的问题成了消费者关注的重点。研究了刺绣工艺参数中的针法、线迹长度、劈丝细度三项因素对绣品耐摩擦性能的影响。使用马丁代尔法对试样进行摩擦试验,并利用扫描电子显微镜和体式显微镜分析绣线和绣品的外观形态。结果表明,经一定时间的摩擦后,刺绣中的一些蚕丝单纤维会断裂或起茸,部分断裂和起茸纤维会纠缠在一起在绣品表面形成球状瑕疵或条状瑕疵。试样线迹长度越短、劈丝次数越少,绣品表面的耐摩擦效果越好。此外,不同针法的试样耐摩擦性能也会有所不同。
With the increasingly extensive application of embroidery in practical products,the problem of friction damage on the surface of embroidery products has became the consumers’main focus.The effects of em-broidery process parameters such as stitch,stitch length and split fineness on friction resistance of embroidery products were analyzed.The friction test was conducted by adopting the Martindale method,and the embroidery lines and the appearance of the embroidery pattern were analyzed by scanning electron microscope and postures microscope.The results showed that after a certain period of friction,some single fibers of silk in embroidery products would break or fuzz,and some broken and fuzz fibers would entangle and form spherical or strip defects on the surface of embroidery products.The shorter the stitch length of the sample and the less the times of split,the better friction resistance of the embroidery product.Besides,the samples with different stitches had different friction resistance.
作者
钱江莲
薛文良
钱竞芳
李婷
周小进
刘蕴莹
QIAN Jian-liang;XUE Wen-liang;QIAN Jing-fang;LI Ting;ZHOU Xiao-jin;LIU Yun-ying(college of Textiles,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620;Suzhou Institude of Fiber Inspection,Suzhou 215100)
出处
《纺织科学与工程学报》
CAS
2022年第4期56-59,共4页
Journal of Textile Science & Engineering
关键词
刺绣
工艺参数
摩擦
针法
迹长度
劈丝细度
embroidery
process parameters
friction
needle method
stitch length
split fineness