摘要
人体上半身表面形态复杂,对合体上衣的结构设计要求较高,但目前服装结构设计主要依靠经验数据,特别是给非标准体型制作服装要经过多次修改才能达到设计效果。为缩短服装制作周期,探索适用于各种体型的通用制板方法,在体型分类的基础上,通过分析上衣的重力平衡,提出上衣结构设计"2A"原理,将其应用于设计制板中,可实现上衣结构重力平衡,在理论上满足驼背、大胸等各种体型合体上衣的制作。
The surface shape of the upper of the human body is complex,and there are high requirements for the structural design of the fit garment.However,at present,the garment structural design mainly depends on empirical data.The design effect can be achieved only after many modifications expecially for people with non-standard body shape.In order to shorten the garment production cycle,and explore a general pattern making method suitable for various body types,on the basis of body shape classification,by analyzing the gravity balance of the garment,the"2A"principle of the garment structure design was put forward,applied it to the design pattern,which can realize the gravity balance of the garment structure,and theoretically fund the production of the fit garment for people of various body shapes such as hunchback and big chest at one time.
作者
高光
高畅
高丽
GAO Guang;GAO Chang;GAO LI(Chengdu Fudao Garment Technology Service Co.,Ltd.,Chengdu 610000,China;Beijing Gaohong International Fashion Design Co.,Ltd.,Beijing 100000,China)
出处
《服装学报》
2021年第6期497-502,共6页
Journal of Clothing Research
关键词
上衣设计
制板
结构力学
重力平衡
高级定制
upper garment design
pattern making
structural mechanics
gravity balance
advanced customization
