摘要
旗袍传统的设计方法是结合面料、领型、门襟、绲边等完成整体设计,需要设计素养和经验的累积,这些经验如果能转化成固定的一些程式和逻辑,将能够实现旗袍款式的自动化设计。旗袍领型和门襟是结构上对旗袍视觉印象影响最重要的部分,为了探究旗袍领型与门襟影响力孰重孰轻,以及不同领型与不同门襟搭配对旗袍整体风格的具体影响,为旗袍定制的智能化款式设计软件的编程提供理论依据,文章通过语义差异调查问卷与眼动仪实验相结合的方法,分析被试者对不同领型与门襟样式搭配旗袍的视觉感受、风格与风格偏好,从问卷结果与眼动实验结果分析领型和门襟各部件对应的语义表达与影响力大小,以及旗袍分别在各部件影响下形成的视觉感受和风格特点。结果发现当面料一致时,门襟样式的变化对旗袍整体风格与视觉感受的影响更大,只有当领型为凤仙领、元宝领、波浪领3种领型时,其整体风格才由领型决定。
The traditional design method of Qipao is combing the collar,placket type and overlapping,etc.,with fabric color and patterns.It requires designers have experiences and high literacy.If these experiences can be transformed to logics programming languages,it will be able to realize the automatic design of Qipao for custom made.Qipao’s collar type and placket are the most important parts of the structure that influence the visual impression of Qipao.In order to explore the influence of Qipao’s collar type and placket,and the specific impact of different collar types and placket on the overall style,this study is used by a combination method of semantic differential and eye tracker experiments,and analyzes the visual perception,style,and style preference of subjects with Qipao which has different collar types and placket styles.From the results of semantic differential method and eye tracker experiments,analyzes the semantic and influence of the collar type and placket style,and the visual perception and style characteristics of the Qipao under the influence of each component.It was found that when the fabrics were consistent,the change in placket style had a greater impact on the overall style and visual perception of the Qipao.Only when the collar type is Fengxian,Yuanbao,and wave collar,the Qipao’s overall style is determined by the collar type.
出处
《纺织导报》
CAS
2020年第12期65-68,共4页
China Textile Leader
基金
浙江省教育科学规划研究课题项目(2020SCG044)
浙江省2017年度社科联研究课题重点立项项目(2017Z29)
嘉兴学院南湖学院重点科研项目(N41472001-66)。
关键词
衣领类型
门襟样式
语义
视觉感受
眼动实验
collar type
placket style
semantics
visual feeling
eye movement experiment
