摘要
为探究初代襦裙的形制与结构特点,梳理襦裙发展脉络,现对目前中国出土年代最早的襦裙实物——江陵马山一号楚墓出土的襦裙进行研究。研究方法主要采用二重考证法和比较学研究方法,结合战国人俑造型和古今文献资料,对该襦裙的穿着次第、衣裙面料和结构形制等方面分别展开研究。通过研究发现,该襦裙采用“多片式”结构,衣身较贴体,衣裙加饰缘边,并在裁制时注重整体造型的协调与美观,服装风格符合当时的审美风尚和社会文化。最后,文章还对襦裙的文化发展进行了探讨,结果表明襦裙的兴起既满足社会文化发展,也符合实际生产需求。
In order to explore the shape and structure characteristics of early Ru skirt and collate its development,the earliest Ru skirt unearthed from the No.1 Chu tomb at Jiangling Mashan was studied.Combined with the ancient and modern literature and tomb figures in Warring States period,the double textual research method and the comparative study method were used to investigate the wearing order,dress fabric,and structure and shape of the skirt.The results show that this skirt has a‘multi-piece’structure,and the clothes fit well.Besides,the coordination and beauty of the whole shape are stressed during tailoring.It has decorative edges and belts.The styleconformed to aesthetic fashion and social culture at that time.Finally,the paper also discusses the culture of Ru skirt,and the results show that the rise of Ru skirt not only met the social and cultural development,but also complied with the actual production needs.
作者
王奕文
罗戎蕾
WANG Yiwen;LUO Ronglei(School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2020年第6期52-57,共6页
Journal of Silk
关键词
战国时期
襦裙
形制
结构
缘边
文化
Warring States period
Ru skirt
shape
structure
edge
culture
