摘要
为了分析拼接工艺对针织物服用性能的影响,通过对15种锦纶/氨纶弹性针织物分别进行10%、20%、30%、40%、50%、60%拉伸率下的拉伸力值测试。从15种织物中优选3种进行拼接组合,并测试其拉伸性能,建立了单种针织物拉伸力值和拼接针织物拉伸力值的回归方程;测试了不同拉伸率下单种针织物试样和拼接针织物试样的服装压力,并建立了拉伸力值、拉伸率和服装压力的回归方程,总结了织物拉伸力值与服装压力的相互关系,能够辅助预测弹性针织物拼接后的拉伸力,为针织服装压力的相关研究提供参考和指导。研究结果表明:弹性针织物纵向与横向的拉伸率呈高度正相关。拼接针织物试样拉伸力与单种针织物试样拉伸力间存在显著相关性,且拼接针织物拉伸力受2种织物中拉伸力较大织物的影响大。通过拉伸率、拉伸力及服装压力的回归方程能够较好的预测服装压力。
In order to analyze the influence of stitching technology on the wearability of knitted fabrics,the tension force of 15 elastic knitted fabrics at tensile rates of 10%,20%,30%,40%,50%,60%were tested,and the best three ones were selected to combine with each other for stitching combinations tensile test.The regression equation of tension force of single fabrics and stitching fabrics was established,and the clothing pressure tests were measured.The clothing pressure of single fabric samples and combination samples under different tension rates was tested.The regression equation of tension force,tension rate and clothing pressure was established.The relationship between fabric tension force and clothing pressure under conventional tension was summarized,which can assist in predicting the splice tension and provide reference and guidance for the related researches of knitted clothing pressure.The results show that there is a high positive correlation between the stretch rate in the transverse direction and straight direction.There is a significant correlation between the splicing tensile force and the non-splicing tensile force of elastic knitted fabric,and the splicing tensile force is greatly affected by the fabric with larger stretching force.
作者
张红媛
崔明海
ZHANG Hongyuan;CUI Minghai(School of Fashion Art and Engineering,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)
出处
《毛纺科技》
CAS
北大核心
2020年第5期56-61,共6页
Wool Textile Journal
基金
服装工效及功能创新设计北京市重点实验室项目(KYTG02170202)
北京服装学院研究生科研创新项目(120301990122/001)。
关键词
针织物
拉伸性能
拼接
服装压力
紧身运动服装
knitted fabrics
tensile properties
stitching seams
clothing pressure
tightfitting sportswear