摘要
采用涤纶异收缩混纤丝并捻纱与涤/黏中长混纺纱进行交织,开发出一种涤/黏仿毛贡丝锦。介绍了产品的设计思路与过程,加原料搭配、组织结构设计、织物规格设计等。重点对蒸纱定形、分条整经、剑杆织造及后整理等关键工序的工艺与技术措施进行了分析与探讨。经检测,成品经、纬缩水率均小于1%,色牢度均在4级左右起毛起球为4级,可用于制作制服、礼服及高端商务套装等产品。
A kind of polyester and viscose wool-like doeskin is developed by interweaving polyester different-shrink mixed filaments and twisted yarn with long-staple polyester/viscose blended yarn.The design idea and process of polyester/viscose polyester and viscose wool-like doeskin,such as raw material collocation,organizational structure design and fabric specification design are described.The key processes such as steaming yarn setting,the points of warping,rapier weaving and finishing and technologies are analyzed and discussed.The performance of the finished products have been tested,and the warp and weft shrinkage rates are less than 1%,all kinds of color fastness are about 4,and pilling pith is 4.The new product can be used for the production of many industries uniforms,gowns and high-end business suits.
作者
蔡永东
CAI Yongdong(Jiangsu College of Engineering and Technology,Nantong 226006,China;Jiangsu Province Advanced Textile Technology Center,Nantong 226006,China)
出处
《上海纺织科技》
北大核心
2020年第1期53-54,共2页
Shanghai Textile Science & Technology
基金
江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心建设项目[苏政办发(2014)22号]
江苏高校品牌专业建设工程项目(PPZY2015A093)。
关键词
涤纶
黏胶
混纺纱
仿毛织物
贡丝锦
产品设计
生产技术
polyester fiber
viscose
blended yarn
wool-like fabric
doeskin
product design
production technology
