摘要
文章选用差别化涤纶、氨纶、涤/粘混纺纱、精梳棉和锦纶,以双层组织和双罗纹空气层组织为基础设计开发了5块秋冬季针织男西裤面料。根据西裤的服用需求,测试和分析了5块面料的各项服用性能,包括顶破强力、弯曲性能、弹性回复性、抗折皱性、起毛起球性能、热阻和透气性能,并运用模糊数学综合评价方法对所开发面料的服用性能进行综合评价。结果表明:针织物的基本结构参数会影响针织西裤面料的服用性能,紧密、厚实、面密度高的针织物,其顶破性、抗皱性、硬挺性、保暖性等性能指标较好,服用性能较好;使用氨纶交织的针织西裤面料,具有较好的弹性和弹性回复性,其服用性能得到很好的改善。
In this study,differential polyester yarn,polyurethane yarn,polyester/viscose blended yarn,combed cotton yarn and polyamide yarn were selected and used for knitting five different kinds of fabrics in double-layer stitch and ponte-roma for man’s autumn/winter suit pants.According to the end-use criteria of suit pants,the wearing properties of these fabrics,including bursting strength,bending property,elastic recovery,wrinkle resistance,anti-pilling performance,thermal resistance and air-permeability,were tested and evaluated by the fuzzy mathematics method.Test results showed that the basic structural parameters of the knitted fabrics can influence the wearing property.The fabrics with high surface density have better wearing property,and the knitted pants containing polyurethane yarn have better wearing property thanks to their excellent elasticity and elastic recovery.
出处
《纺织导报》
CAS
2018年第3期80-83,共4页
China Textile Leader
关键词
针织男西裤面料
性能测试
综合服用性能
氨纶
knitted fabric for man’s suit pants
property test
wearing properties
polyurethane fiber
