摘要
服装行业素有'三分做工、七分烫工'之说,可见作为服装加工的最后整烫工序之重要。本文在探讨定形机理的基础上,分析了整烫工艺参数(温度、压力,时间、水份)对服装整烫定形的作用原理,通过在 Hoffman 西服流水线整烫机上进行生产实验、研究分析了不同的整烫工艺对服装的外观、服用性能、风格特征的影响和规律,并在此基础上,以纯毛华达呢为例,制订出十种适用于西服不同部位的最佳整烫工艺。此外,对服装定形效果的评价方法做了一些探讨。
The finish-ironing process is very important in apparel manufacture.On the base of investigating foundamenta theory of setting, this essayanalyses the principle with which setting technology peramentes acts onfinish-ironing. By manufacturing and experimenting on HOFFMAN 'S suitpressing maching with pure wool garberdine researchs and analysis aremade on the effect of different finishing-ironing technology on apparelappearance and wearability. Following this, 14 best finishing-ironingtechnologies fit or different parts of suit are worked out. This presentsa basis on methods of evaluating apparel setting effect. In the end of thepaper, the case of yarn's chane formed on different finish-ironing techno-logy of tranditional ironing by hand is also studied.
出处
《西北纺织工学院学报》
1991年第2期97-106,共10页
Journal of Northwest Institute of Textile Science and Technology
