摘要
为提高全成形毛衫样板设计的准确性和生产效率,在深入研究全成形毛衫工艺原理的基础上,以符合人体结构特征对全成形毛衫结构设计的要求,选取典型款式的上装为研究对象,结合服装纸样理论以及全成形毛衫设计原则,通过二维与三维相配合的设计方法,建立了适用于四针床电脑横机横纵2种编织方向的基础样板。通过对基础样板的应用举例并上机编织服装实物,说明该样板符合全成形毛衫设计及成形要求。实践认为,将基础样板用于全成形毛衫设计中可通过对样板的调用与修改快速实现全成形毛衫的变化设计,也为全成形毛衫新款的开发提供有效途径。
For the fully-fashioned knitwear,upper garments of typical style were taken as research object to improve its fundamental pattern design accuracy and its manufacturing efficiency,based on in-depth research on theory of fully-fashioned knitting process,as well as the requirements of human body characteristics on the functionality and design of fully-fashioned knitwear. On the basis of clothing pattern theory combined with the design principal of fully-fashioned knitwear,the fundamental pattern applicable for four-bed computerized flat knitting machine in both horizontal and vertical knitting was obtained by combining two-dimensional and three-dimensional design. Examples of the fundamental pattern and practically knitted clothing demonstrate that the pattern conforms to the design and forming requirements of the fully-fashioned knitwear. According to the practice,application of the fundamental pattern in fullyfashioned knitwear can realize various design of fully-fashioned knitwear quickly by pattern exchange and modification,which offers an effective approach to develop new style knitwear.
作者
罗璇
彭佳佳
蒋高明
丛洪莲
LUO Xuan;PENG Jiajia;JIANG Gaoming;CONG Honglian(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)
出处
《纺织学报》
EI
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2018年第7期105-110,共6页
Journal of Textile Research
基金
国家自然科学基金资助项目(61772238)
江苏省产学研联合创新-前瞻性联合研究项目(BY2016022-09)
关键词
全成形毛衫
人体特征
样板设计
成形方法
fully-fashioned knitwear
human body feature
pattern design
forming method
