摘要
为获得最佳的着装美观和舒适性,通过三维人体测量方法获得肩部有关数据,并利用SPSS分析软件对所测数据进行整理分析,以肩部横向弯曲度为研究对象,建立肩部参数对象,即肩弓系数,分析得出其值介于0.702与0.912之间;通过对肩弓进行聚类分析获得3类不同弯曲度肩型,再结合肩斜将肩部造型整合得出9种不同造型;通过对肩弓与肩宽进行相关性分析得出负相关性;通过运用Opti Tex软件中三维试衣功能建立肩弓模型,分析不同肩弓弯度对着装外观的影响,并通过三维立体裁剪技术获得不同样板纸样,对纸样中各工艺点的位移变化进行分析,总结得出不同肩弓弧度对贴体性上衣的领窝弧线长度和位置、衣身袖笼弧线和肩线的长度均会产生影响,其中对后领窝线长度影响最为显著,即随着肩弓弧度增加,后领窝弧线长度以均值0.3 cm逐渐增加。
In order to obtain a better effect of structure design,in this paper,based on the 3-D human body measurement,relevant data about shoulder are acquired and the SPSS analysis software is used to analyze these data. The parameter named shoulder arch is established to study shoulder horizontal camber,which value is between 0. 702 and 0. 912. By the way of clustering analyzing the shoulder arch is analyzed and different shoulder models are acquired,and by combining with the shoulder＇ s slope classification standard,9 different shoulder models are acquired finally. By the correlation analysis,the negative relationship between shoulder arch and shoulder width is acquired. By using 3-D fitting function in Opti Tex software different shoulder arch models are set up to analyze the effect of different shoulder arches on the dress,and by the three-dimensional cutting technology,different sample patterns are acquired. The change of process points in pattern is analyzed and the effect of different shoulder arch on the design is concluded,for example effect on neckline about it＇s length and position,on clothes body＇s sleeve arc line and on shoulder line length,and the most significant effect is on the back-neckline length,with the increase of the should arch,the back-neckline length gradually increased by an average value of0. 3 cm.
出处
《纺织学报》
EI
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2016年第10期94-100,共7页
Journal of Textile Research
基金
江苏省2014年度普通高校研究生科研创新计划项目(KYZZ_0316)
关键词
人体测量
青年女性
肩部弯度
上装结构
body measurement
female youth
shoulder arch
upper garment pattern
