摘要
对孤立波在缓坡海滩上的运动进行了数值模拟 ,当孤立波接近海岸时 ,波高随水深减小迅速增大 ,以至波浪破碎 ;揭示了孤立波在不同底坡下破碎时的相对波高极值 (H/h) b,以及 (H/h) b 随坡度的变化情况 ,与合田的相对波高极值的表达式及 (H/h) b 随hb/L0 的变化曲线比较 。
The numerical simulation is applied to the solitary wave running and breaking on beach of gentle slope. The waveheight increases rapidly with water depth decreasing as solitary wave suns to the beach until it breaks. The relative extreme value of waveheight (H/h) b at various bottom slope is obtained, then the change trend of (H/h) b is found. The numerical results are shown to be in good accordance with the achievements of Goda′s expression about (H/h) b and the diagram of (H/h) b along with (h b/L 0) .
出处
《宁波大学学报（理工版）》
CAS
2002年第2期14-16,共3页
Journal of Ningbo University：Natural Science and Engineering Edition
基金
浙江省自然科学基金项目 (5 99119)资助
宁波大学重点项目 (Z0 1110 0 8)资助
