摘要
由能量平衡方程导出匀质波场局地风生浪平均波向对变风向的响应。结果表明,响应的时间尺度不但取决于波能的成长速率,还取决于方向分布函数和风向与平均波向之夹角。按文圣常提出的在局地风作用下的标准风浪成长曲线,对其响应时间尺度的定量估计结果表明,本文提出的无因次响应时间尺度与无因次能量和无固次峰频率的关系,与现已提出的模式比较与实测更符合。
In this paper,the response of the mean direction of iocal wind generated waves to the change in the wind direction in a homogeneous situation has been directly derived on the basis of the wave energy balance equation.The results show that the time scale of the response is not only related to the rate of wave growth,but also to the directional energy distribution and the angle between the wind direction and the mean wave direction.Based on the normalized rates of wave growth under local winds presented by Wen el al.,a quantitative estimate of the time scale of the response shows that both the relationship between the dimcnsionlcss time scale and the dimensionless total wave energy and the relationship between the dimcnsionlcss time scale and the dimensionless peak frequency agree fairly well with the observations in comparison with other models
关键词
海浪
波向
风向
Wave Energy Balance Equation
Time scale of the response
directional energy distribution
homogeneous situation.