摘要
选取三种纱线线密度、组织、面密度相同,成分不同的毛精纺衬衫面料为研究对象,利用KES-FB-AUTO-A织物风格测试仪测试织物的拉伸与剪切性能、弯曲性能、压缩性能和表面摩擦性能。鉴于男士衬衣面料风格评价公式的不适用性,将三种毛精纺衬衫面料的基本性能指标Xi用其性能指标的平均值mi和标准差σi作标准化处理,而后利用男士西服面料的回归常数和公式计算出的基本风格值。结果表明:三种不同成分的毛精纺衬衫面料中,全毛衬衫面料丰满度最高,毛涤衬衫面料硬挺度、滑糯度均最高,丝光羊毛/柔丝衬衫面料硬挺度最小,丰满度和滑糯度均介于全毛衬衫面料和毛涤衬衫面料之间。
Selected three kinds of worsted shirting fabric which have the same yarncounts, weave types and weight, but different contents, as the research object. The low-stress mechanical properties, including surface roughness and friction, compression, bending, shearing, and tensile properties of the samples, were tested by KES-FB-AUTO-A. Given the inapplicability of men＇s shirt fabric style formula evaluation, the basic performance indicators Xi of the three kinds of fabric were standardized with the mean value mi and standard deviation （~i,then the values of the basic style were calculated by the men＇s suit fabric regression constant and formula. The results showed that ： among the three different components of worsted shirting fabric, the wool shirting fabric has the best fullness,while the wool/ polyester shirting fabric has the best stiffness and smooth waxy, and the mercerized wool / silk shirting fabric is the softest.
