摘要
Nelson等指出，在平缓岸滩（岸坡i<1／100）上波浪的破碎指标──相对波高（H／d）b──将较岸坡i＞1／100时为小，即（H／d）。可小于0．6．合田指出他本人提出的破碎指标为理论结果，在缓坡上也适用，即（H／d）b仍可能大于0．7．本文利用高阶非线性波浪理论对此进行了分析计算，并通过实验验证指出了问题症结所在．此外由于计及底能耗的影响．对将不发生波浪破碎的极限坡度作了分析．
It was mentioned by Nelson that the wave breaking criteria (H/d)b for gentle slope(i < 1/100), in which H is the wave height and d is the water depth at breaking point, issmaller than that on beach slope of i >1/100, i. e. the value of (H/d)b on gentle slope may beless than 0. 6. Goda indicated that the wave breaking criteria given by himself is a result based ontheoretical study, so it should be also correct and can be used for gentle beach, i. e. the value of(H/d)b on gentle slope may be still larger than 0. 7. By using high order nonlinear wave theory,this problem is analyzed here and explained why there is a big variance between different studies.Moreover, the bottom energy loss during wave propagation is considered and the critical slope ofappearance of non wave breaking phenomena is also analyzed.
出处
《大连理工大学学报》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
1999年第2期302-308,共7页
Journal of Dalian University of Technology
基金
国家自然科学基金!49876026
交通部规范发展研究基金
