摘要
在以裤长为长、前后横裆宽之和为宽的长方形里进行裤子原型制图,在此基础上提出利用撇量移位的结构设计手法进行裤子结构线的变化设计,将裤子侧缝、下裆撇量以等量或相似面积的位置移换进行裤子侧缝线、下裆线位置的变化设计。结果表明:以此方法进行的裤子结构线变化设计,在保证裤子横向围度尺寸不变的前提下,无论是改变裤子侧缝线和下裆线的位置形态,还是单一改变其中一条线的位置形态,都不会影响裤子穿着的适体性。这种设计手法丰富了裤子结构造型的设计方法。
A drafting of the trousers pattern is made within a rectangle with the sum of the front and back crutch depth lines as width and the pants as length. Based on this, a new design method called ＂the matching displacement＂ is proposed to make changes to the trousers＇ structural lines, that is, to make full use of the rectangle＇s area and the cylinder＇s superficial area to redesign the side seam and the inside leg seam. The experiments show that dint design by this method, whether changing the side seam lines, shifting the inside leg seam lines or changing either of them, the suitability and fitness of the trousers thus designed will be maintained provided that the trousers circumference remains unchanged. Obviously, this method has enriched the present designs of trousers＇ structure.
出处
《纺织学报》
EI
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2009年第11期106-109,114,共5页
Journal of Textile Research
关键词
撇量移位
侧缝撇量
下裆撇量
裤子
结构设计
matching displacement
ease in the side seam
ease in the inside leg seam
trousers
structure design
