摘要
风浪宏观特征量是描述风浪场特征的重要物理量。作者基于风浪有停留在混乱运动状态的趋势的性质对风浪场特征量间的关系进行了研究。主频波频率附近的波动自风摄取能量,风浪吸收的能量通过非线性相互作用在谱中重新分配。谱中能量的重新分配产生多尺度波动,这导致风浪波面的混乱运动(风浪处于混乱运动状态)。在稳定状态,风浪运动最为混乱。当风浪状态偏离最混乱运动状态,谱中非线性相互作用引起的能量重新分配将使风浪回到该状态。基于线性海浪理论导出风浪场特征量间的关系。导出的关系与观测结果进行了对比,发现理论结果与观测结果很好地符合。风浪场宏观特征量间存在固有关系。尽管目前风浪场特征量关系的观测结果存在差异,但本文中证明,所导出的理论关系与实验结果很好地符合。
The macroscopic variables of wind waves are relations among characteristic variables of wind wave fields important for describing wind wave fields. The are studied on the basis that wind waves have a tendency to stay in chaotic state. The waves in frequencies close to the peak frequency of a spectrum absorb energy from wind. The absorbed energy is redistributed through non-linear interactions in the spectrum. The energy redistribution in the spectrum is responsible for the chaotic state of the waves, which leads to waves of multiple scales and chaotic motion of wave surface （chaotic state of the wave field）. In steady state of wind waves, the motion of wave surface is the most chaotic. When the state of wind waves deviates from the most chaotic point, the energy redistribution in the spectrum by non-linear interactions will drive waves back to the chaotic state. The relations among characteristic variables of wind wave fields are established on the basis of linear theory of wind waves, and well agreed with the observations. The relations among macroscopic variables of wind wave fields are intrinsic. Although difference exist among the observations, the derived results in the paper agree well with the results of experiments.
出处
《海洋与湖沼》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2007年第5期394-404,共11页
Oceanologia Et Limnologia Sinica
基金
国家自然科学基金资助项目
40106001号和40576007号。
关键词
特征量
风浪
混乱态
Characteristic variable, Wind waves, Chaotic state
