Swells are critical concerns regarding safety,marine transportation,and coastal engineering construction of coastal countries along the Gulf of Guinea and have been scientific problems due to the lack of systematic th...Swells are critical concerns regarding safety,marine transportation,and coastal engineering construction of coastal countries along the Gulf of Guinea and have been scientific problems due to the lack of systematic theoretical,numerical,and observational research.In this study,a double nesting numerical model was constructed and validated from the Atlantic Ocean to the Gulf of Guinea based on simulating waves nearshore(SWAN)to explore the swell characteristics and source tracing in the Gulf of Guinea in winter and summer seasons from 2020 to 2021.Simulation results reveal that swells are stronger and deflect more to the west in winter than summer,even though they dominate in both seasons in the Gulf of Guinea in the S-SW directional range.Simulated two-dimensional(2D)wave spectral patterns not only clarify wave composition,variation,and propagation properties from the central South Atlantic Ocean to the Gulf of Guinea,but also distinguish swell strength and directional range in winter and summer.The NW wind events induce swells which spread toward the SSE-ESE direction from the North Atlantic Ocean,big wind source generates sustained and stable S-SW swells from the South Atlantic Ocean,and corresponding swell-influenced areas are discussed.The strongest swell event in the Gulf of Guinea during the simulation was used as a case study to trace its source.A strong clockwise wind vortex within the Roaring Forties induced these large swells in the Gulf of Guinea approximately 5.5 days later,and swell propagation formed a regular isoline of peak period distribution from the South Atlantic Ocean to the Gulf of Guinea in the SSW-SW direction.展开更多
Flume experiments play a pivotal role in studying wave propagation,with wave elements typically assumed to remain constant in the perpendicular direction.However,evident cross wave phenomena were observed within flume...Flume experiments play a pivotal role in studying wave propagation,with wave elements typically assumed to remain constant in the perpendicular direction.However,evident cross wave phenomena were observed within flumes under certain conditions.This paper presents new analytical solutions for both primary and cross waves on double shoals in a flume via linear shallow-water equations,which may be used to idealize dynamic experimental configurations of coral reefs.The primary waves on double shoals are described by the associated Legendre functions,whereas the ultimate solutions are derived by considering the incident and reflected waves in front of a bathymetry and the transmitted waves positioned behind it.The effects of the angular frequency and topographic parameters on the primary waves are subsequently analyzed.Cross waves on double shoals constitute a type of topographically trapped wave whose solutions are formulated by combining the first and second types of the associated Legendre functions.The angular frequency is not only determined by the wavenumber but also influenced by the topographic parameters.Numerical experiments are conducted to investigate the generation mechanism of cross waves.The consistency between the numerical results and analytical solutions confirms the validity of the new analytical framework of cross waves on double shoals.展开更多
In this paper,for the first time,we investigated the combined effect of subsurface dams and a typical stratified aquifer(two high-permeability layers with a low-permeability layer between them)on groundwater flow and ...In this paper,for the first time,we investigated the combined effect of subsurface dams and a typical stratified aquifer(two high-permeability layers with a low-permeability layer between them)on groundwater flow and salinity distribution in a tidally influenced coastal unconfined aquifer.Subsurface dams can inhibit the invasion of saltwater,and the low-permeability layer(LPL)and tide action can increase the effect of subsurface dams and the removal rate of residual saltwater.Through sensitivity analysis,it was discovered that shifting the dam location towards the inland resulted in a reduction in the effective heights of the dam.The upper saline plume contracted with increasing dam height,and the upper boundary of LPL was moved to shallower regions.And the natural removal time increased significantly with increasing dam height and the bottom boundary of LPL was moved to deeper regions.In addition,if the dam location was close to the sea boundary and the bottom boundary of LPL was moved to deeper regions,we could increase the subsurface dam height to reduce the risks of control of saltwater intrusion.This study provides us a comprehensive understanding of the complex hydrodynamics of saltwater intrusion and provides guides for the design of subsurface dams aimed at saltwater intrusion control in stratified coastal aquifers.展开更多
A quasi three-dimensional numerical model of wave-driven coastal currents with the effects of surface rollers is developed for the study of the spatial lag between the location of the maximum wave-induced current and ...A quasi three-dimensional numerical model of wave-driven coastal currents with the effects of surface rollers is developed for the study of the spatial lag between the location of the maximum wave-induced current and the wave breaking point. The governing equations are derived from Navier-Stokes equations and solved by the hybrid method combining the fractional step finite different method in the horizontal plane with a Galerkin finite element method in the vertical direc- tion. The surface rollers effects are considered through incorporating the creation and evolution of the roller area into the free surface shear stress. An energy equation facilitates the computation process which transfers the wave breaking energy dissipation to the surface roller energy. The wave driver model is a phase-averaged wave model based on the wave action balance equation. Two sets of laboratory experiments producing breaking waves that generated longshore currents on a planar beach am used to evaluate the model＇s performance. The present wave-driven coastal current model with the roller effect in the surface shear stress term can produce satisfactory results by increasing the wave-induced nearshore current velocity inside the surf zone and shifting the location of the maximum longshore current velocity landward.展开更多
An analytical solution for long waves propagating over a submerged atoll is established. The atolls involved in this study are annular coral reefs with large lagoons in the middle, and the expression of the cross sect...An analytical solution for long waves propagating over a submerged atoll is established. The atolls involved in this study are annular coral reefs with large lagoons in the middle, and the expression of the cross section is a trinomial function of the radial distance, i.e., h=ar(2s)-br~s+h_0, where s is the positive rational number. This analytical solution extends the theory by Wang et al.(2018) as s is no longer limited to s=2/m, where m is the positive integer. In addition, by adjusting the terrain parameters properly, the analytic solution can be degenerated to describe the wave propagation over topography with a hump or pit. According to the relationship between wave rays and wave energy, the distribution characteristics and formation mechanism of energy over the topography are expounded. When the lagoon is non-existent, all wave rays converge at the x-axis, which results in an abrupt amplification of the wave amplitude around the convergence point. When a lagoon is mounted on the top of the atoll, the rays are scattered due to the refraction of the lagoon, and only some rays converge at the symmetrical axis and the ridges on both sides,which results in the amplification of wave amplitudes in these areas.展开更多
The nonlinear variation of wave is commonly seen in nearshore area,and the resulting seabed response and liquefaction are of high concern to coastal engineers.In this study,an analytical formula considering the nonlin...The nonlinear variation of wave is commonly seen in nearshore area,and the resulting seabed response and liquefaction are of high concern to coastal engineers.In this study,an analytical formula considering the nonlinear wave skewness and asymmetry is adopted to provide wave pressure on the seabed surface.The liquefaction depth attenuation coefficient and width growth coefficient are defined to quantitatively characterize the nonlinear effect of wave on seabed liquefaction.Based on the 2D full dynamic model of wave-induced seabed response,a detailed parametric study is carried out in order to evaluate the influence of the nonlinear variation of wave loadings on seabed liquefaction.Further,new empirical prediction formulas are proposed to fast predict the maximum liquefaction under nonlinear wave.Results indicate that(1)Due to the influence of wave nonlinearity,the vertical transmission of negative pore water pressure in the seabed is hindered,and therefore,the amplitude decreases significantly.(2)In general,with the increase of wave nonlinearity,the liquefaction depth of seabed decreases gradually.Especially under asymmetric and skewed wave loading,the attenuation of maximum seabed liquefaction depth is the most significant among all the nonlinear wave conditions.However,highly skewed wave can cause the liquefaction depth of seabed greater than that under linear wave.(3)The asymmetry of wave pressure leads to the increase of liquefaction width,whereas the influence of skewedness is not significant.(4)Compared with the nonlinear waveform,seabed liquefaction is more sensitive to the variation of nonlinear degree of wave loading.展开更多
Dumping area capacity is mainly affected by the hydrodynamic process （tidal sediment, storm surge and wave, etc.） as well as the size and depth of dumping area. Based on three-dimensional ocean circulation model kno...Dumping area capacity is mainly affected by the hydrodynamic process （tidal sediment, storm surge and wave, etc.） as well as the size and depth of dumping area. Based on three-dimensional ocean circulation model known as FVCOM （Finite Volume Coast and Ocean Model） and the stochastic dynamic statistical analysis model, taking advantage of dumping ground topography evolution and dumping quantity, the author aims to discuss the influence of hydrodynamic processes and dumping activity so as to built a new model of ocean dumping area capacity. With the data of depth and dumped amount in the dumping area, the changes of bottom topographic which caused by tidal current under the natural condition based on the FVCOM hydrodynamic and sediment module, the author strive to analyze the statistical relation of the changes for dumping amount, tidal current and bottom topographic. Through real data to fit revision coefficient values, which will be regarded as topographic changes reference value affected by wave and storm surges. Thus taking this evaluation as the long-term changes in the dumping capacity. In the premise of setting up the threshold of bottom topographic changes, the dumping area capacity is calculated. Take Yangtze Estuary No. 1 dumping area as an example, As the water depth reduces by 0.5 m annually, the dumping area capacity is about 6.7 million m3/a, the model results are in reasonable agreement with the actual amount. Then the model is validated in Luoyuan Bay dumping area, Shengsishangchuan Mountain dumping area, Dongding dumping area, Dongshan dumping area, and Wenzhou Port dumoin~ area. it is turns out the results are similar to that of the actual observations.展开更多
Apart from the direct threat to human lives, the flood waves as a result of the rapid catchment response to intense rainfall, breaches of flood defences, tsunamis or storm surges may induce huge impact forces on struc...Apart from the direct threat to human lives, the flood waves as a result of the rapid catchment response to intense rainfall, breaches of flood defences, tsunamis or storm surges may induce huge impact forces on structures, causing structural damage or even failures. Most existing design codes do not properly account for these impact forces due to the limited understanding of the underlying physical processes and the lack of reliable empirical formulae or numerical approaches to quantifying them. This paper presents laboratory experiments to better understand the interaction between the extreme flow hydrodynamics and the hydraulic structures and uses the measured data to validate a numerical model. The model solves the two-dimensional shallow water equations using a finite volume Godunov-type scheme for the reliable simulation of complex flow hydrodynamics. New model components are developed for estimating the hydrostatic and hydrodynamic pressure to quantify the flow impact on structures. The model is applied to reproduce two selected experiment tests with different settings and satisfactory numerical results are obtained, which confirms its predictive capability. The model will therefore provide a potential tool for wider and more flexible field-scale applications.展开更多
Liquid sloshing in tanks is a very complex nonlinear free surface fluid flow problem,which must be considered in most of the marine engineering problems such as naval architecture,offshore engineering and so on.Violen...Liquid sloshing in tanks is a very complex nonlinear free surface fluid flow problem,which must be considered in most of the marine engineering problems such as naval architecture,offshore engineering and so on.Violent liquid sloshing in large containers can damage the tank structure due to the direct liquid impacting action.Sloshing also affects the capsizing process of the liquid cargo ship.Some works on mitigating sloshing by using all kinds of the baffles were thus followed with interests.Oil layers with thinner thickness were shown to reduce the sloshing load of water in tanks.The sloshing characteristics in tanks with different sizes were different,therefore,scaling effect of sloshing should also be considered.Sloshing in a tank can also be used as tuned liquid dampers(TLDs)to dampen wind,wave and flow-induced motions of floating or fixed marine platforms.This paper present an overview on recent advances of liquid sloshing hydrodynamics including sloshing mitigation by using anti-sloshing baffle,layered fluids sloshing,scaling effect of sloshing and TLDs.展开更多
基金The National Key R&D Program of China under contract No.2023YFE0126300the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos 42066002 and U20A2099.
文摘Swells are critical concerns regarding safety,marine transportation,and coastal engineering construction of coastal countries along the Gulf of Guinea and have been scientific problems due to the lack of systematic theoretical,numerical,and observational research.In this study,a double nesting numerical model was constructed and validated from the Atlantic Ocean to the Gulf of Guinea based on simulating waves nearshore(SWAN)to explore the swell characteristics and source tracing in the Gulf of Guinea in winter and summer seasons from 2020 to 2021.Simulation results reveal that swells are stronger and deflect more to the west in winter than summer,even though they dominate in both seasons in the Gulf of Guinea in the S-SW directional range.Simulated two-dimensional(2D)wave spectral patterns not only clarify wave composition,variation,and propagation properties from the central South Atlantic Ocean to the Gulf of Guinea,but also distinguish swell strength and directional range in winter and summer.The NW wind events induce swells which spread toward the SSE-ESE direction from the North Atlantic Ocean,big wind source generates sustained and stable S-SW swells from the South Atlantic Ocean,and corresponding swell-influenced areas are discussed.The strongest swell event in the Gulf of Guinea during the simulation was used as a case study to trace its source.A strong clockwise wind vortex within the Roaring Forties induced these large swells in the Gulf of Guinea approximately 5.5 days later,and swell propagation formed a regular isoline of peak period distribution from the South Atlantic Ocean to the Gulf of Guinea in the SSW-SW direction.
基金financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No. 52071128)the Natural Science Foundation of Jiangsu Basic Research Program (Grant No. BK20220082)
文摘Flume experiments play a pivotal role in studying wave propagation,with wave elements typically assumed to remain constant in the perpendicular direction.However,evident cross wave phenomena were observed within flumes under certain conditions.This paper presents new analytical solutions for both primary and cross waves on double shoals in a flume via linear shallow-water equations,which may be used to idealize dynamic experimental configurations of coral reefs.The primary waves on double shoals are described by the associated Legendre functions,whereas the ultimate solutions are derived by considering the incident and reflected waves in front of a bathymetry and the transmitted waves positioned behind it.The effects of the angular frequency and topographic parameters on the primary waves are subsequently analyzed.Cross waves on double shoals constitute a type of topographically trapped wave whose solutions are formulated by combining the first and second types of the associated Legendre functions.The angular frequency is not only determined by the wavenumber but also influenced by the topographic parameters.Numerical experiments are conducted to investigate the generation mechanism of cross waves.The consistency between the numerical results and analytical solutions confirms the validity of the new analytical framework of cross waves on double shoals.
基金The National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract No.51979095.
文摘In this paper,for the first time,we investigated the combined effect of subsurface dams and a typical stratified aquifer(two high-permeability layers with a low-permeability layer between them)on groundwater flow and salinity distribution in a tidally influenced coastal unconfined aquifer.Subsurface dams can inhibit the invasion of saltwater,and the low-permeability layer(LPL)and tide action can increase the effect of subsurface dams and the removal rate of residual saltwater.Through sensitivity analysis,it was discovered that shifting the dam location towards the inland resulted in a reduction in the effective heights of the dam.The upper saline plume contracted with increasing dam height,and the upper boundary of LPL was moved to shallower regions.And the natural removal time increased significantly with increasing dam height and the bottom boundary of LPL was moved to deeper regions.In addition,if the dam location was close to the sea boundary and the bottom boundary of LPL was moved to deeper regions,we could increase the subsurface dam height to reduce the risks of control of saltwater intrusion.This study provides us a comprehensive understanding of the complex hydrodynamics of saltwater intrusion and provides guides for the design of subsurface dams aimed at saltwater intrusion control in stratified coastal aquifers.
基金supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.50509007)the Program for New Century Excellent Talents in University of China(Grant No.NCET-07-0255)
文摘A quasi three-dimensional numerical model of wave-driven coastal currents with the effects of surface rollers is developed for the study of the spatial lag between the location of the maximum wave-induced current and the wave breaking point. The governing equations are derived from Navier-Stokes equations and solved by the hybrid method combining the fractional step finite different method in the horizontal plane with a Galerkin finite element method in the vertical direc- tion. The surface rollers effects are considered through incorporating the creation and evolution of the roller area into the free surface shear stress. An energy equation facilitates the computation process which transfers the wave breaking energy dissipation to the surface roller energy. The wave driver model is a phase-averaged wave model based on the wave action balance equation. Two sets of laboratory experiments producing breaking waves that generated longshore currents on a planar beach am used to evaluate the model＇s performance. The present wave-driven coastal current model with the roller effect in the surface shear stress term can produce satisfactory results by increasing the wave-induced nearshore current velocity inside the surf zone and shifting the location of the maximum longshore current velocity landward.
基金financially supported by Hainan Provincial Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No. 422MS090)Fujian Provincial Natural Scienceof China (Grant No. 2022J05282)2020 Xiamen Youth Innovation Fund Project of China (Grant No.3502Z20206069)。
文摘An analytical solution for long waves propagating over a submerged atoll is established. The atolls involved in this study are annular coral reefs with large lagoons in the middle, and the expression of the cross section is a trinomial function of the radial distance, i.e., h=ar(2s)-br~s+h_0, where s is the positive rational number. This analytical solution extends the theory by Wang et al.(2018) as s is no longer limited to s=2/m, where m is the positive integer. In addition, by adjusting the terrain parameters properly, the analytic solution can be degenerated to describe the wave propagation over topography with a hump or pit. According to the relationship between wave rays and wave energy, the distribution characteristics and formation mechanism of energy over the topography are expounded. When the lagoon is non-existent, all wave rays converge at the x-axis, which results in an abrupt amplification of the wave amplitude around the convergence point. When a lagoon is mounted on the top of the atoll, the rays are scattered due to the refraction of the lagoon, and only some rays converge at the symmetrical axis and the ridges on both sides,which results in the amplification of wave amplitudes in these areas.
基金financially supported by the National Key Research and Development Program of China(Grant Nos.2021YFB2600700 and 2022YFC3102302)the Central Public-Interest Scientific Institution Basal Research Fund(Grant No.Y221007)+2 种基金the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.52271274)the Key Laboratory of Ministry of Education for Coastal Disaster and Protection,Hohai University(Grant No.202205)the Key Project of NSFC-Shandong Joint Research Funding POW3C(Grant No.U1906230).
文摘The nonlinear variation of wave is commonly seen in nearshore area,and the resulting seabed response and liquefaction are of high concern to coastal engineers.In this study,an analytical formula considering the nonlinear wave skewness and asymmetry is adopted to provide wave pressure on the seabed surface.The liquefaction depth attenuation coefficient and width growth coefficient are defined to quantitatively characterize the nonlinear effect of wave on seabed liquefaction.Based on the 2D full dynamic model of wave-induced seabed response,a detailed parametric study is carried out in order to evaluate the influence of the nonlinear variation of wave loadings on seabed liquefaction.Further,new empirical prediction formulas are proposed to fast predict the maximum liquefaction under nonlinear wave.Results indicate that(1)Due to the influence of wave nonlinearity,the vertical transmission of negative pore water pressure in the seabed is hindered,and therefore,the amplitude decreases significantly.(2)In general,with the increase of wave nonlinearity,the liquefaction depth of seabed decreases gradually.Especially under asymmetric and skewed wave loading,the attenuation of maximum seabed liquefaction depth is the most significant among all the nonlinear wave conditions.However,highly skewed wave can cause the liquefaction depth of seabed greater than that under linear wave.(3)The asymmetry of wave pressure leads to the increase of liquefaction width,whereas the influence of skewedness is not significant.(4)Compared with the nonlinear waveform,seabed liquefaction is more sensitive to the variation of nonlinear degree of wave loading.
基金The Marine Charity Project under contract No.201005019-3the Marine Charity Project under contract Nos 201105009 and201105010-12the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract No.41276018
文摘Dumping area capacity is mainly affected by the hydrodynamic process （tidal sediment, storm surge and wave, etc.） as well as the size and depth of dumping area. Based on three-dimensional ocean circulation model known as FVCOM （Finite Volume Coast and Ocean Model） and the stochastic dynamic statistical analysis model, taking advantage of dumping ground topography evolution and dumping quantity, the author aims to discuss the influence of hydrodynamic processes and dumping activity so as to built a new model of ocean dumping area capacity. With the data of depth and dumped amount in the dumping area, the changes of bottom topographic which caused by tidal current under the natural condition based on the FVCOM hydrodynamic and sediment module, the author strive to analyze the statistical relation of the changes for dumping amount, tidal current and bottom topographic. Through real data to fit revision coefficient values, which will be regarded as topographic changes reference value affected by wave and storm surges. Thus taking this evaluation as the long-term changes in the dumping capacity. In the premise of setting up the threshold of bottom topographic changes, the dumping area capacity is calculated. Take Yangtze Estuary No. 1 dumping area as an example, As the water depth reduces by 0.5 m annually, the dumping area capacity is about 6.7 million m3/a, the model results are in reasonable agreement with the actual amount. Then the model is validated in Luoyuan Bay dumping area, Shengsishangchuan Mountain dumping area, Dongding dumping area, Dongshan dumping area, and Wenzhou Port dumoin~ area. it is turns out the results are similar to that of the actual observations.
基金supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.51379074,51411130125)the Chinese Government "Recruitment Program of Global Experts"
文摘Apart from the direct threat to human lives, the flood waves as a result of the rapid catchment response to intense rainfall, breaches of flood defences, tsunamis or storm surges may induce huge impact forces on structures, causing structural damage or even failures. Most existing design codes do not properly account for these impact forces due to the limited understanding of the underlying physical processes and the lack of reliable empirical formulae or numerical approaches to quantifying them. This paper presents laboratory experiments to better understand the interaction between the extreme flow hydrodynamics and the hydraulic structures and uses the measured data to validate a numerical model. The model solves the two-dimensional shallow water equations using a finite volume Godunov-type scheme for the reliable simulation of complex flow hydrodynamics. New model components are developed for estimating the hydrostatic and hydrodynamic pressure to quantify the flow impact on structures. The model is applied to reproduce two selected experiment tests with different settings and satisfactory numerical results are obtained, which confirms its predictive capability. The model will therefore provide a potential tool for wider and more flexible field-scale applications.
基金Projects supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.52171256).
文摘Liquid sloshing in tanks is a very complex nonlinear free surface fluid flow problem,which must be considered in most of the marine engineering problems such as naval architecture,offshore engineering and so on.Violent liquid sloshing in large containers can damage the tank structure due to the direct liquid impacting action.Sloshing also affects the capsizing process of the liquid cargo ship.Some works on mitigating sloshing by using all kinds of the baffles were thus followed with interests.Oil layers with thinner thickness were shown to reduce the sloshing load of water in tanks.The sloshing characteristics in tanks with different sizes were different,therefore,scaling effect of sloshing should also be considered.Sloshing in a tank can also be used as tuned liquid dampers(TLDs)to dampen wind,wave and flow-induced motions of floating or fixed marine platforms.This paper present an overview on recent advances of liquid sloshing hydrodynamics including sloshing mitigation by using anti-sloshing baffle,layered fluids sloshing,scaling effect of sloshing and TLDs.
