Measuring multi-directional waves with the wave gauge array is one of the fundamental and easily realised methods. In this paper, the wave gauge array is described and the effects of the gauge spacing, the array orien...Measuring multi-directional waves with the wave gauge array is one of the fundamental and easily realised methods. In this paper, the wave gauge array is described and the effects of the gauge spacing, the array orientations, etc. of the three array arrangements, i. e., linear array, T-type array and pentagon array, on the resolution of the directional spreading of waves, are investigated experimentally. This study can be used as a reference in the experimental study and the field measurement of directional waves.展开更多
From measurements by a circular array consisting of 18 wave gauges in a large wave tank, directional spectra of wind-generated waves in deep water are systematically determined by using maximum likehood method.The inv...From measurements by a circular array consisting of 18 wave gauges in a large wave tank, directional spectra of wind-generated waves in deep water are systematically determined by using maximum likehood method.The investigations reveal that the angular spreading of the wave energy is consistent with cos2s(θ/2) proposed by Longuet-Higgins et al. (1963, Ocean Wad Spectra,11~136), if the bimodal distributions of wave energy are not taken into account. Bimodality occurring on higher frequency than peak frequency is too rare to affect our whole results. Surprisingly, a much broader directional spreading than that of the field, which is interpreted by the strongly nonlinear energy transfer because of the very young waves in laboratory, is found. The parameter s depends on frequency in the same way as observed by Mitsuyasu et al. (1975, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 5, 750~760)and Hasselmann et al. (1980, Journal of physical Oceanography, 10, 1264~1280) in the field, and the relationship between the four nondimensional parameters sm, fo, b1 and b2, determining the directional width, and (corresponding to the inverse of wave age) are given respectively. The observed distributions are found to agree well with the suggestion of Donelan et al. (1985, Philosophical Transaction of Royal Society of London, A315, 509~562) when applied to field waves.展开更多
Multi-parameter hydrological gauge is an instrument developed by the South China Sea Institute of Oceanology, the Chinese Academy of Sciences to make simultaneous observation of current, wave, tide, water temperature ...Multi-parameter hydrological gauge is an instrument developed by the South China Sea Institute of Oceanology, the Chinese Academy of Sciences to make simultaneous observation of current, wave, tide, water temperature and conductivity. By using the well-known ＂PUV method＂, the directional wave spectrum can be calculated and the dominant wave direction is then obtained. The comparison of the dominant wave directions derived from the measurements using both the multi-parameter hydrological gauge and the MARK Ⅱ ＂Wave-Rider＂ directional buoy shows that the dominant wave directions derived from the two kinds of measurements are in good agreement.展开更多
Three-dimensional ( 3-D) directional wave focusing is one of the mechanisms that contribute to the generation of freak waves. To simulate and analyze this phenomenon,a 3-D wave focusing model is proposed based on the ...Three-dimensional ( 3-D) directional wave focusing is one of the mechanisms that contribute to the generation of freak waves. To simulate and analyze this phenomenon,a 3-D wave focusing model is proposed based on the enhanced high-order spectral method,which solves the fully nonlinear potential flow equations with a free surface within periodic unbounded 3-D domains. The numerical model is validated against a fifth-order Stokes solution for regular waves. Laboratory-scale freak waves are observed with wave components having equal amplitudes. Investigations of the appearance and propagation of freak-wave events in a 3-D open wavefield defined by a directional wave spectrum are then realized.展开更多
A perturbation expansion method’s first three order solutions of two-dimensional random gravity waves in finite uniform depth were used as bases to derive the quadratic correction to the linear wave spectrum (ie., th...A perturbation expansion method’s first three order solutions of two-dimensional random gravity waves in finite uniform depth were used as bases to derive the quadratic correction to the linear wave spectrum (ie., the quadratic spectrum ). For infinite water depth, the expression of the quadratic spectrum given in this paper is much simpler then that of Sclavounos (1992) and Olemz and Milgram (1995).展开更多
It is difficult to compute far-field waves in a relative large area by using one wave generation model when a large calculation domain is needed because of large dimensions of the waterway and long distance of the req...It is difficult to compute far-field waves in a relative large area by using one wave generation model when a large calculation domain is needed because of large dimensions of the waterway and long distance of the required computing points. Variation of waterway bathymetry and nonlinearity in the far field cannot be included in a ship fixed process either. A coupled method combining a wave generation model and wave propagation model is then used in this paper to simulate the wash waves generated by the passing ship. A NURBS-based higher order panel method is adopted as the stationary wave generation model; a wave spectrum method and Boussinesq-type equation wave model are used as the wave propagation model for the constant water depth condition and variable water depth condition, respectively. The waves calculated by the NURBS-based higher order panel method in the near field are used as the input for the wave spectrum method and the Boussinesq-type equation wave model to obtain the far-field waves. With this approach it is possible to simulate the ship wash waves including the effects of water depth and waterway bathymetry. Parts of the calculated results are validated experimentally, and the agreement is demonstrated. The effects of ship wash waves on the moored ship are discussed by using a diffraction theory method. The results indicate that the prediction of the ship induced waves by coupling models is feasible.展开更多
This paper contributes to the diffraction of a solitary Wave by a cylinder, governed by the Boussinesq eq. The Spectrum Method is used to transform 2-D eqs. into a set of 1-D eqs., which is solved by F. D. M. The exam...This paper contributes to the diffraction of a solitary Wave by a cylinder, governed by the Boussinesq eq. The Spectrum Method is used to transform 2-D eqs. into a set of 1-D eqs., which is solved by F. D. M. The example given in the paper shows that this method is both accurate and cost ef- fective.展开更多
The vectorial structure of an optical field with hybrid states of polarization （SOP） in the near-field is studied by using the angular spectrum method of an electromagnetic beam. Physical images of the longitudinal ...The vectorial structure of an optical field with hybrid states of polarization （SOP） in the near-field is studied by using the angular spectrum method of an electromagnetic beam. Physical images of the longitudinal components of evanescent waves are illustrated and compared with those of the transverse components from the vectorial structure. Our results indicate that the relative weight integrated over the transverse plane of the evanescent wave depends strongly on the number of the polarization topological charges. The shapes of the intensity profiles of the longitudinal components are different from those of the transverse components, and it can be manipulated by changing the initial SoP of the field cross-section. The longitudinal component of evanescent wave dominates the near-field region. In addition, it also leads to three-dimensional shape variations of the optical field and the optical spin angular momentum flux density distributions.展开更多
Wave pressure on the wet surface of a V-shaped floating breakwater in random seas is investigated. Considering the diffraction effect, the unit velocity potential caused by the single regular waves around the breakwat...Wave pressure on the wet surface of a V-shaped floating breakwater in random seas is investigated. Considering the diffraction effect, the unit velocity potential caused by the single regular waves around the breakwater is solved using the finite-depth Green function and boundary element method, in which the Green function is solved by integral method. The Response-Amplitude Operator(RAO) of wave pressure is acquired according to the Longuet-Higgins' wave model and the linear Bernoulli equation. Furthermore, the wave pressure's response spectrum is calculated according to the wave spectrum by discretizing the frequency domain. The wave pressure's characteristic value corresponding to certain cumulative probability is determined according to the Rayleigh distribution of wave heights. The numerical results and field test results are compared, which indicates that the wave pressure calculated in random seas agrees with that of field measurements. It is found that the bigger angle between legs will cause the bigger pressure response, while the increase in leg length does not influence the pressure significantly. The pressure at the side of head sea is larger than that of back waves. When the incident wave angle changes from 0? to 90?, the pressure at the side of back waves decreases clearly, while at the side of head sea, the situation is more complicated and there seems no obvious tendency. The concentration of wave energy around low frequency(long wavelength) will induce bigger wave pressure, and more attention should be paid to this situation for the structure safety.展开更多
立体摄影技术可实现三维海浪的连续观测,但目前基于立体摄影海浪观测数据开展二维海浪方向谱估计的研究却相对匮乏,从而束缚了立体摄影技术在海洋观测中的进一步深入应用。鉴于此,本文基于中国海洋大学微波遥感实验室开发的立体摄影海...立体摄影技术可实现三维海浪的连续观测,但目前基于立体摄影海浪观测数据开展二维海浪方向谱估计的研究却相对匮乏,从而束缚了立体摄影技术在海洋观测中的进一步深入应用。鉴于此,本文基于中国海洋大学微波遥感实验室开发的立体摄影海浪观测系统,并结合海浪方向谱阵列测量的扩展本征矢方法,系统性研究了基于立体摄影海浪观测数据反演二维海浪方向谱的可行性,并分析了不同海面采样点阵列排列方式、采样点间距及观测误差等因素对二维海浪方向谱反演结果的影响。立体摄影实测海浪数据反演结果显示:阵列中采样点间距小于1/3波浪的波长,海面采样点阵列排列方式为五边形时可得到较好的海浪方向谱反演结果。通过将立体摄影数据反演所得二维海浪方向谱与Signature1000型声学多普勒波浪流速剖面仪(Acoustic Doppler Wave and Current Profiler, AWAC)测量结果进行比较,结果显示二者具有较高的相关性和良好的一致性。立体摄影所得有效波高、平均波向和AWAC测量的有效波高、平均波向的相关系数分别为0.988和0.983,平均偏差分别为0.029 m和0.010°,均方根误差分别为0.089 m和8.844°。展开更多
文摘Measuring multi-directional waves with the wave gauge array is one of the fundamental and easily realised methods. In this paper, the wave gauge array is described and the effects of the gauge spacing, the array orientations, etc. of the three array arrangements, i. e., linear array, T-type array and pentagon array, on the resolution of the directional spreading of waves, are investigated experimentally. This study can be used as a reference in the experimental study and the field measurement of directional waves.
文摘From measurements by a circular array consisting of 18 wave gauges in a large wave tank, directional spectra of wind-generated waves in deep water are systematically determined by using maximum likehood method.The investigations reveal that the angular spreading of the wave energy is consistent with cos2s(θ/2) proposed by Longuet-Higgins et al. (1963, Ocean Wad Spectra,11~136), if the bimodal distributions of wave energy are not taken into account. Bimodality occurring on higher frequency than peak frequency is too rare to affect our whole results. Surprisingly, a much broader directional spreading than that of the field, which is interpreted by the strongly nonlinear energy transfer because of the very young waves in laboratory, is found. The parameter s depends on frequency in the same way as observed by Mitsuyasu et al. (1975, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 5, 750~760)and Hasselmann et al. (1980, Journal of physical Oceanography, 10, 1264~1280) in the field, and the relationship between the four nondimensional parameters sm, fo, b1 and b2, determining the directional width, and (corresponding to the inverse of wave age) are given respectively. The observed distributions are found to agree well with the suggestion of Donelan et al. (1985, Philosophical Transaction of Royal Society of London, A315, 509~562) when applied to field waves.
基金This work was jointly supported by the the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos 40576014 and 40676021the Science and Technology Program of Guangdong Province under contract No.2005D33201006.
文摘Multi-parameter hydrological gauge is an instrument developed by the South China Sea Institute of Oceanology, the Chinese Academy of Sciences to make simultaneous observation of current, wave, tide, water temperature and conductivity. By using the well-known ＂PUV method＂, the directional wave spectrum can be calculated and the dominant wave direction is then obtained. The comparison of the dominant wave directions derived from the measurements using both the multi-parameter hydrological gauge and the MARK Ⅱ ＂Wave-Rider＂ directional buoy shows that the dominant wave directions derived from the two kinds of measurements are in good agreement.
基金Sponsored by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No. 50779004)
文摘Three-dimensional ( 3-D) directional wave focusing is one of the mechanisms that contribute to the generation of freak waves. To simulate and analyze this phenomenon,a 3-D wave focusing model is proposed based on the enhanced high-order spectral method,which solves the fully nonlinear potential flow equations with a free surface within periodic unbounded 3-D domains. The numerical model is validated against a fifth-order Stokes solution for regular waves. Laboratory-scale freak waves are observed with wave components having equal amplitudes. Investigations of the appearance and propagation of freak-wave events in a 3-D open wavefield defined by a directional wave spectrum are then realized.
文摘A perturbation expansion method’s first three order solutions of two-dimensional random gravity waves in finite uniform depth were used as bases to derive the quadratic correction to the linear wave spectrum (ie., the quadratic spectrum ). For infinite water depth, the expression of the quadratic spectrum given in this paper is much simpler then that of Sclavounos (1992) and Olemz and Milgram (1995).
基金financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.50879066 and 51409201)the Research Fund for the Doctoral Program of Higher Education of China(Grant No.200804970009)
文摘It is difficult to compute far-field waves in a relative large area by using one wave generation model when a large calculation domain is needed because of large dimensions of the waterway and long distance of the required computing points. Variation of waterway bathymetry and nonlinearity in the far field cannot be included in a ship fixed process either. A coupled method combining a wave generation model and wave propagation model is then used in this paper to simulate the wash waves generated by the passing ship. A NURBS-based higher order panel method is adopted as the stationary wave generation model; a wave spectrum method and Boussinesq-type equation wave model are used as the wave propagation model for the constant water depth condition and variable water depth condition, respectively. The waves calculated by the NURBS-based higher order panel method in the near field are used as the input for the wave spectrum method and the Boussinesq-type equation wave model to obtain the far-field waves. With this approach it is possible to simulate the ship wash waves including the effects of water depth and waterway bathymetry. Parts of the calculated results are validated experimentally, and the agreement is demonstrated. The effects of ship wash waves on the moored ship are discussed by using a diffraction theory method. The results indicate that the prediction of the ship induced waves by coupling models is feasible.
文摘This paper contributes to the diffraction of a solitary Wave by a cylinder, governed by the Boussinesq eq. The Spectrum Method is used to transform 2-D eqs. into a set of 1-D eqs., which is solved by F. D. M. The example given in the paper shows that this method is both accurate and cost ef- fective.
基金supported by the Zhejiang Provincial Natural Science Foundation,China(Grant Nos.LZ17A040001 and LY16A040014)the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.11574271 and 11574272)+1 种基金the Scientific Research Foundation for the Returned Overseas Chinese Scholars,State Education Ministrythe Science Research Foundation of Zhejiang Sci-Tech University(ZSTU),China(Grant No.14062078-Y)
文摘The vectorial structure of an optical field with hybrid states of polarization （SOP） in the near-field is studied by using the angular spectrum method of an electromagnetic beam. Physical images of the longitudinal components of evanescent waves are illustrated and compared with those of the transverse components from the vectorial structure. Our results indicate that the relative weight integrated over the transverse plane of the evanescent wave depends strongly on the number of the polarization topological charges. The shapes of the intensity profiles of the longitudinal components are different from those of the transverse components, and it can be manipulated by changing the initial SoP of the field cross-section. The longitudinal component of evanescent wave dominates the near-field region. In addition, it also leads to three-dimensional shape variations of the optical field and the optical spin angular momentum flux density distributions.
基金supported by the Science Fund for Creative Research Groups of the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant no.51021004)the Research Fund of State Key Laboratory in Ocean Engineering of Shanghai Jiaotong University(Grant no.1104)the Scientific Research Foundation of Civil Aviation University of China(Grant no.09QD08X)
文摘Wave pressure on the wet surface of a V-shaped floating breakwater in random seas is investigated. Considering the diffraction effect, the unit velocity potential caused by the single regular waves around the breakwater is solved using the finite-depth Green function and boundary element method, in which the Green function is solved by integral method. The Response-Amplitude Operator(RAO) of wave pressure is acquired according to the Longuet-Higgins' wave model and the linear Bernoulli equation. Furthermore, the wave pressure's response spectrum is calculated according to the wave spectrum by discretizing the frequency domain. The wave pressure's characteristic value corresponding to certain cumulative probability is determined according to the Rayleigh distribution of wave heights. The numerical results and field test results are compared, which indicates that the wave pressure calculated in random seas agrees with that of field measurements. It is found that the bigger angle between legs will cause the bigger pressure response, while the increase in leg length does not influence the pressure significantly. The pressure at the side of head sea is larger than that of back waves. When the incident wave angle changes from 0? to 90?, the pressure at the side of back waves decreases clearly, while at the side of head sea, the situation is more complicated and there seems no obvious tendency. The concentration of wave energy around low frequency(long wavelength) will induce bigger wave pressure, and more attention should be paid to this situation for the structure safety.
文摘立体摄影技术可实现三维海浪的连续观测,但目前基于立体摄影海浪观测数据开展二维海浪方向谱估计的研究却相对匮乏,从而束缚了立体摄影技术在海洋观测中的进一步深入应用。鉴于此,本文基于中国海洋大学微波遥感实验室开发的立体摄影海浪观测系统,并结合海浪方向谱阵列测量的扩展本征矢方法,系统性研究了基于立体摄影海浪观测数据反演二维海浪方向谱的可行性,并分析了不同海面采样点阵列排列方式、采样点间距及观测误差等因素对二维海浪方向谱反演结果的影响。立体摄影实测海浪数据反演结果显示:阵列中采样点间距小于1/3波浪的波长,海面采样点阵列排列方式为五边形时可得到较好的海浪方向谱反演结果。通过将立体摄影数据反演所得二维海浪方向谱与Signature1000型声学多普勒波浪流速剖面仪(Acoustic Doppler Wave and Current Profiler, AWAC)测量结果进行比较,结果显示二者具有较高的相关性和良好的一致性。立体摄影所得有效波高、平均波向和AWAC测量的有效波高、平均波向的相关系数分别为0.988和0.983,平均偏差分别为0.029 m和0.010°,均方根误差分别为0.089 m和8.844°。
