In this work,we examined long-term wave distributions using a third-generation numerical wave model called WAVE-WATCH-III(WW3)(version 6.07).We also evaluated the influence of sea ice on wave simulation by using eight...In this work,we examined long-term wave distributions using a third-generation numerical wave model called WAVE-WATCH-III(WW3)(version 6.07).We also evaluated the influence of sea ice on wave simulation by using eight parametric switches.To select a suitable ice-wave parameterization,we validated the simulations from the WW3 model in March,May,September,and December 2017 against the measurements from the Jason-2 altimeter at latitudes of up to 60°N.Generally,all parameterizations ex-hibited slight differences,i.e.,about 0.6 m root mean square error(RMSE)of significant wave height(SWH)in May and September and about 0.9 m RMSE for the freezing months of March and December.The comparison of the results with the SWH from the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts for December 2017 indicated that switch IC4_M1 performed most effec-tively(0.68 m RMSE)at high latitudes(60°-80°N).Given this finding,we analyzed the long-term wave distributions in 1999-2018 on the basis of switch IC4_M1.Although the seasonal variability of the simulated SWH was of two types,i.e.,‘U’and‘sin’modes,our results proved that fetch expansion prompted the wave growth.Moreover,the interannual variability of the specific regions in the‘U’mode was found to be correlated with the decade variability of wind in the Arctic Ocean.展开更多
The main objective of this paper is to examine the influences of both the principal wave direction and the directional spreading parameter of the wave energy on the wave height evolution of multidirectional irregular ...The main objective of this paper is to examine the influences of both the principal wave direction and the directional spreading parameter of the wave energy on the wave height evolution of multidirectional irregular waves over an impermeable sloping bottom and to propose an improved wave height distribution model based on an existing classical formula.The numerical model FUNWAVE 2.0,based on a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation,is employed to simulate the propagation of multidirectional irregular waves over the sloping bottom.Comparisons of wave heights derived from wave trains with various principal wave directions and different directional spreading parameters are conducted.Results show that both the principal wave direction and the wave directional spread have significant influences on the wave height evolution on a varying coastal topography.The shoaling effect for the wave height is obviously weakened with the increase of the principal wave direction and with the decrease of the directional spreading parameter.With the simulated data,the classical Klopman wave height distribution model is improved by considering the influences of both factors.It is found that the improved model performs better in describing the wave height distribution for the multidirectional irregular waves in shallow water.展开更多
In this paper experimental wind wave data are analyzed. It is found that differences in spectral width will give rise to differences in wave height distribution. The effect of spectral width on the distribution is mai...In this paper experimental wind wave data are analyzed. It is found that differences in spectral width will give rise to differences in wave height distribution. The effect of spectral width on the distribution is mainly in the high wave range. The effect of wave steepness is in low, medium and high wave ranges. In the high wave range the effect of spectral width is comparable to that of wave steepness. Differences in spectral width in the observations may give rise to discrepancies in the result when wave steepness is the only parameter in the distribution.展开更多
The wave characteristics affecting coastal sediment transport include wave height, wave period and breaking wave direction. Wave height is a critical factor in determining the amount of sediment transport in the coast...The wave characteristics affecting coastal sediment transport include wave height, wave period and breaking wave direction. Wave height is a critical factor in determining the amount of sediment transport in the coastal area. The force of sediment transport is much more intense under breaking waves than under non-breaking waves. Breaking waves exhibit various patterns, principal- ly depending on the incident wave steepness and the beach slope. Based on the equations of con- servation of mass, momentum and energy, a theoretical model for wave deformation in and outside the surf zone was obtained, which is used to calculate the wave shoaling, wave set-up and set- down and wave height distributions in and outside the surf zone. The analysis and comparison were made about the breaking point location and the wave height decay caused by the wave breaking and the bottom friction. Flume experiments relating to the spilling wave height distribution across the surf zone were conducted to verify the theoretical model. Advanced wave maker, data sampling de- vices and data processing system were utilized in the flume experiments with a slope covered by sands of different diameters to facilitate the observation and research on the wave transformation and breaking. The agreement between the theoretical and experimental results is good.展开更多
In this paper, the mechanism of the interaction between the breast wall of mound breakwater and waves is expounded, then some new views and the law of variation of horizontal and vertical wave pressure over the breast...In this paper, the mechanism of the interaction between the breast wall of mound breakwater and waves is expounded, then some new views and the law of variation of horizontal and vertical wave pressure over the breast wall are put forward. The results of this study have been adopted in the Specifications of Fishery Harbour Breakwater by the Ministry of Agricultures.展开更多
In this paper, the calculating charts and formulae about wave pressure on the breast wall are derived with seven parameters on the basis of physical model study. The verification shows that the charts agree with the e...In this paper, the calculating charts and formulae about wave pressure on the breast wall are derived with seven parameters on the basis of physical model study. The verification shows that the charts agree with the example, and are adopted in the Specifications of Fishery Harbours Breakwater by the Ministry of Agricultures.展开更多
Because of the intrinsic difficulty in determining distributions for wave periods, previous studies on wave period distribution models have not taken nonlinearity into account and have not performed well in terms of d...Because of the intrinsic difficulty in determining distributions for wave periods, previous studies on wave period distribution models have not taken nonlinearity into account and have not performed well in terms of describing and statistically analyzing the probability density distribution of ocean waves. In this study, a statistical model of random waves is developed using Stokes wave theory of water wave dynamics. In addition, a new nonlinear probability distribution function for the wave period is presented with the parameters of spectral density width and nonlinear wave steepness, which is more reasonable as a physical mechanism. The magnitude of wave steepness determines the intensity of the nonlinear effect, while the spectral width only changes the energy distribution. The wave steepness is found to be an important parameter in terms of not only dynamics but also statistics. The value of wave steepness reflects the degree that the wave period distribution skews from the Cauchy distribution, and it also describes the variation in the distribution function, which resembles that of the wave surface elevation distribution and wave height distribution. We found that the distribution curves skew leftward and upward as the wave steepness increases. The wave period observations for the SZFII-1 buoy, made off the coast of Weihai （37°27.6′N, 122°15.1′ E）, China, are used to verify the new distribution. The coefficient of the correlation between the new distribution and the buoy data at different spectral widths （v=0.3-3.5） is within the range of 0.9686 to 0.991 7. In addition, the Longuet-Higgins （1975） and Sun （1988） distributions and the new distribution presented in this work are compared. The validations and comparisons indicate that the new nonlinear probability density distribution fits the buoy measurements better than the Longuet-Higgins and Sun distributions do. We believe that adoption of the new wave period distribution would improve traditional statistical wave theory.展开更多
Distribution of wave heights and surface elevations of wind-driven waves are studied. Records of surface elevations obtained from both field observations and laboratory measurements are analyzed. Wave heights can be a...Distribution of wave heights and surface elevations of wind-driven waves are studied. Records of surface elevations obtained from both field observations and laboratory measurements are analyzed. Wave heights can be approximated by normal, two-parameter Weibull, and/or Rayleigh distribution. However, while the first two models may have almost equal probabilities to fit measured data quite satisfactorily, the Rayleigh distribution does not appear to be a good model for the majority of the cases studied. Surface elevations from field data are well described by the Gaussian model, but as with increasing wind speeds, water surface in a wind-wave flume deviates from normality, and the Edgeworth/s form of the type A Gram-Charlier series is then applied.展开更多
This paper reveals that the long-period statistic distribution of the characteristic heights of deep-water waves assumes the lognormal distribution. Thereafter, the largest wave-height which may occur in the service l...This paper reveals that the long-period statistic distribution of the characteristic heights of deep-water waves assumes the lognormal distribution. Thereafter, the largest wave-height which may occur in the service life of coastal structures is derived in this paper.展开更多
The probability distribution of wave heights under the assumption of narrowband linear wave theory follows the Rayleigh distribution and the statistical relationships between some characteristic wave heights, derived ...The probability distribution of wave heights under the assumption of narrowband linear wave theory follows the Rayleigh distribution and the statistical relationships between some characteristic wave heights, derived from this distribution, are widely used for the treatment of realistic wind waves. However, the bandwidth of wave frequency influences the probability distribution of wave heights. In this paper, a wave-spectrum-width parameter B was introduced into the JONSWAP spectrum. This facilitated the construction of a wind-wave spectrum and the reconstruction of wind-wave time series for various growth stages, based on which the probability density distributions of the wind-wave heights were studied statistically. The distribution curves deviated slightly from the theoretical Rayleigh distribution with increasing B. The probability that a wave height exceeded a certain value was clearly smaller than the theoretical value for B≥0.3, and the difference between them increased with the threshold value. The relation between the Hs/σ ratio and B was investigated statistically, which revealed that the Hs/σ ratio deviated from 4.005 and declined with B. When B reached 0.698 1, the Hs/σ ratio was 3.825, which is about 95.5% of its original value. This indicates an overestimation in the a potential method for improving the accuracy of the Hs extremely large waves under severe sea states. prediction of Hs from Hs=4.005σ, and provides remote sensing retrieval algorithm, critical for展开更多
The relativistic and distorted wave effects are investigated for the electron momentum distributions of Xe 4d electrons.The theoretical results show good agreements with the experimental data measured previously with ...The relativistic and distorted wave effects are investigated for the electron momentum distributions of Xe 4d electrons.The theoretical results show good agreements with the experimental data measured previously with electron momentum spectroscopy. The distorted wave effect and the relativistic effect are found to play important roles in the low and high momentum regions, respectively.展开更多
By analysing the scatter diagrams of characteristic the wave height H and the period T on the basis of instrumental data from various ocean wave stations, we found that the conditional expectation and standard deviati...By analysing the scatter diagrams of characteristic the wave height H and the period T on the basis of instrumental data from various ocean wave stations, we found that the conditional expectation and standard deviation of wave period for a given wave height can be better predicted by using the equations of normal linear regression rather than by those based on the log- normal law. The latter was implied in Ochi' s bivariate log-normal model(Ochi. 1978) for the long-term joint distribution of H and T. With the expectation and standard deviation predicted by the normal linear regression equations and applying proper types of distribution, we have obtained the conditional distribution of T for given H. Then combining this conditional P(T / H) with long-term marginal distribution of the wave height P(H) we establish a new parameterized model for the long-term joint distribution P(H,T). As an example of the application of the new model we give a method for estimating wave period associated with an extreme wave height.展开更多
This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope （1：40）. Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this ...This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope （1：40）. Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this purpose. The results indicate that the wave heights obey the Rayleigh distribution at the offshore location; however, in the shoaling region, the heights of the largest waves are underestimated by the theoretical distributions. In the surf zone, the wave heights can be approximated by the composite Weibull distribution. In addition, the nonlinear phase coupling within the irregular waves is investigated by the wavelet-based bicoherence. The bicoherence spectra reflect that the number of frequency modes participating in the phase coupling increases with the decreasing water depth, as does the degree of phase coupling. After the incipient breaking, even though the degree of phase coupling decreases, a great number of higher harmonic wave modes are also involved in nonlinear interactions. Moreover, the summed bicoherence indicates that the frequency mode related to the strongest local nonlinear interactions shifts to higher harmonics with the decreasing water depth.展开更多
Wave simulation was conducted for the period 1976 to 2005 in the South China Sea （SCS） using the wave model, WAVEWATCH-III. Wave characteristics and engineering environment were studied in the region. The wind input...Wave simulation was conducted for the period 1976 to 2005 in the South China Sea （SCS） using the wave model, WAVEWATCH-III. Wave characteristics and engineering environment were studied in the region. The wind input data are from the objective reanalysis wind datasets, which assimilate meteorological data from several sources. Comparisons of significant wave heights between simulation and TOPEX/Poseidon altimeter and buoy data show a good agreement in general. By statistical analysis, the wave characteristics, such as significant wave heights, dominant wave directions, and their seasonal variations, were discussed. The largest significant wave heights are found in winter and the smallest in spring. The annual mean dominant wave direction is northeast （NE） along the southwest （SW）-NE axis, east northeast in the northwest （NW） part of SCS, and north northeast in the southeast （SE） part of SCS. The joint distributions of wave heights and wave periods （directions） were studied. The results show a single peak pattern for joint significant wave heights and periods, and a double peak pattern for joint significant wave heights and mean directions. Furthermore, the main wave extreme parameters and directional extreme values, particularly for the 100-year return period, were also investigated. The main extreme values of significant wave heights are larger in the northern part of SCS than in the south- ern part, with the maximum value occurring to the southeast of Hainan Island. The direction of large directional extreme Hs values is focus in E in the northem and middle sea areas of SCS, while the direction of those is focus in N in the southeast sea areas of SCS.展开更多
The East Asian subtropical westerly jet(EASWJ)is one of the most important factors modulating the Meiyu rainfall in the Yangtze-Huaihe River Basin,China.This article analyzed periods of the medium-term EASWJ variation...The East Asian subtropical westerly jet(EASWJ)is one of the most important factors modulating the Meiyu rainfall in the Yangtze-Huaihe River Basin,China.This article analyzed periods of the medium-term EASWJ variation,wave packet distribution and energy propagation of Rossby waves along the EASWJ during Meiyu season,and investigated their possible influence on abnormal Meiyu rain.The results showed that during the medium-term scale atmospheric dynamic process,the evolution of the EASWJ in Meiyu season was mainly characterized by the changes of3-8 d synoptic-scale and 10-15 d low-frequency Rossby waves.The strong perturbation wave packet and energy propagation of the 3-8 d synoptic-scale and 10-15 d low-frequency Rossby waves are mostly concentrated in the East Asian region of 90°-150°E,where the two wave trains of perturbation wave packets and wave-activity flux divergence coexist in zonal and meridional directions,and converge on the EASWJ.Besides,the wave trains of perturbation wave packet and wave-activity flux divergence in wet Meiyu years are more systematically westward than those in dry Meiyu years,and they are shown in the inverse phases between each other.In wet(dry)Meiyu year,the perturbation wave packet high-value area of the 10-15 d low-frequency variability is located between the Aral Sea and the Lake Balkhash(in the northeastern part of China),while over eastern China the wave-activity flux is convergent and strong(divergent and weak),and the high-level jets are strong and southward(weak and northward).Because of the coupling of high and low level atmosphere and high-level strong(weak)divergence on the south side of the jet over the Yangtze-Huaihe River Basin,the low-level southwest wind and vertically ascending motion are strengthened(weakened),which is(is not)conducive to precipitation increase in the Yangtze-Huaihe River Basin.These findings would help to better understand the impact mechanisms of the EASWJ activities on abnormal Meiyu from the perspective of medium-term scale Rossby wave energy propagation.展开更多
The maximum entropy principle (MEP) method and the corresponding probability evaluation method are introduced, and the maximum entropy probability distribution expression is deduced in moment of the second order. Full...The maximum entropy principle (MEP) method and the corresponding probability evaluation method are introduced, and the maximum entropy probability distribution expression is deduced in moment of the second order. Fully developed wave height distribution in deep water and wave height and period distribution for different depths in wind wave channel experiment are obtained from the MEP method, and the results are compared with the distribution and the experimental histogram. The wave height and period distribution for the Lianyungang port is also obtained by the MEP method, and the results are compared with the Weibull distribution and the field histogram.展开更多
Statistical analysis was done on simultaneous wave and wind using data recorded by discus-shape wave buoy. The area is located in the southern Caspian Sea near the Anzali Port. Recorded wave data were obtained through...Statistical analysis was done on simultaneous wave and wind using data recorded by discus-shape wave buoy. The area is located in the southern Caspian Sea near the Anzali Port. Recorded wave data were obtained through directional spectrum wave analysis. Recorded wind direction and wind speed were obtained through the related time series as well. For 12-month measurements（May 25 2007-2008）, statistical calculations were done to specify the value of nonlinear auto-correlation of wave and wind using the probability distribution function of wave characteristics and statistical analysis in various time periods. The paper also presents and analyzes the amount of wave energy for the area mentioned on the basis of available database. Analyses showed a suitable comparison between the amounts of wave energy in different seasons. As a result, the best period for the largest amount of wave energy was known. Results showed that in the research period, the mean wave and wind auto correlation were about three hours. Among the probability distribution functions, i.e Weibull, Normal, Lognormal and Rayleigh, ＂Weibull＂ had the best consistency with experimental distribution function shown in different diagrams for each season. Results also showed that the mean wave energy in the research period was about 49.88 k W/m and the maximum density of wave energy was found in February and March, 2010.展开更多
The latitude-altitude distributions of radiative fluxes and heating rates are investigated by utilizing CloudSat satellite data over China during summer. The Tibetan Plateau causes the downward shortwave fluxes of the...The latitude-altitude distributions of radiative fluxes and heating rates are investigated by utilizing CloudSat satellite data over China during summer. The Tibetan Plateau causes the downward shortwave fluxes of the lower atmosphere over central China to be smaller than the fluxes over southern and northern China by generating more clouds. The existence of a larger quantity of clouds over central China reflects a greater amount of solar radiation back into space. The vertical gradients of upward shortwave radiative fluxes in the atmosphere below 8 km are greater than those above 8 km. The latitudinal-altitude distributions of downward longwave radiative fluxes show a slantwise decreasing trend from low latitudes to high latitudes that gradually weaken in the downward direction. The upward longwave radiative fluxes also weaken in the upward direction but with larger gradients. The maximum heating rates by solar radiation and cooling rates by longwave infrared radiation are located over 28 40°N at 7 8 km mean sea level (MSL), and they are larger than the rates in the northern and southern regions. The heating and cooling rates match well both vertically and geographically.展开更多
This study was conducted on the spatial distribution characteristics of surface tidal currents in the southwestern Taiwan Strait based on the quasi-harmonic analysis of current data obtained by two high frequency surf...This study was conducted on the spatial distribution characteristics of surface tidal currents in the southwestern Taiwan Strait based on the quasi-harmonic analysis of current data obtained by two high frequency surface wave radar(HFSWR) systems. The analysis shows that the tidal current pattern in the southwestern Taiwan Strait is primarily semi-diurnal and influenced significantly by shallow water constituents. The spatial distribution of tidal current ellipses of M2 is probably affected by the interaction between two different systems of tide wave, one from the northern mouth of Taiwan Strait and the other from the Bashi Channel. The directions of the major axes of M2 tidal current ellipses coincide roughly with the axis of the Taiwan Strait. The spatial distribution of the magnitudes of the probable maximum current velocity(PMCS) shows gradual increase of the velocity from northeast to southwest, which is in accordance with the spatial distribution of the measured maximum current velocity(MMCS). The directions of the residual currents are in accordance with the direction of the prevailing monsoon wind at the Taiwan Strait and the direction of the Taiwan warm current during summer. The bathymetry also shows a significant effect on the spatial distribution characteristics of tidal currents.展开更多
基金support from the National Key Research and Development Program of China(No.2016 YFC1401605)the Key Special Project for Introduced Tal-ents Team of Southern Marine Science and Engineering Guangdong Laboratory(Guangzhou)(No.GML2019ZD0302)the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Nos.41806005 and 42076238).
文摘In this work,we examined long-term wave distributions using a third-generation numerical wave model called WAVE-WATCH-III(WW3)(version 6.07).We also evaluated the influence of sea ice on wave simulation by using eight parametric switches.To select a suitable ice-wave parameterization,we validated the simulations from the WW3 model in March,May,September,and December 2017 against the measurements from the Jason-2 altimeter at latitudes of up to 60°N.Generally,all parameterizations ex-hibited slight differences,i.e.,about 0.6 m root mean square error(RMSE)of significant wave height(SWH)in May and September and about 0.9 m RMSE for the freezing months of March and December.The comparison of the results with the SWH from the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts for December 2017 indicated that switch IC4_M1 performed most effec-tively(0.68 m RMSE)at high latitudes(60°-80°N).Given this finding,we analyzed the long-term wave distributions in 1999-2018 on the basis of switch IC4_M1.Although the seasonal variability of the simulated SWH was of two types,i.e.,‘U’and‘sin’modes,our results proved that fetch expansion prompted the wave growth.Moreover,the interannual variability of the specific regions in the‘U’mode was found to be correlated with the decade variability of wind in the Arctic Ocean.
基金the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.51809039)the Natural Science Foundation of Jiangsu Province(Grant No.BK20201455)+1 种基金the Natural Science Foundation of the Jiangsu Higher Education Institutions(Grant No.20KJD170005)the Qing Lan Project of Jiangsu Universities.
文摘The main objective of this paper is to examine the influences of both the principal wave direction and the directional spreading parameter of the wave energy on the wave height evolution of multidirectional irregular waves over an impermeable sloping bottom and to propose an improved wave height distribution model based on an existing classical formula.The numerical model FUNWAVE 2.0,based on a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation,is employed to simulate the propagation of multidirectional irregular waves over the sloping bottom.Comparisons of wave heights derived from wave trains with various principal wave directions and different directional spreading parameters are conducted.Results show that both the principal wave direction and the wave directional spread have significant influences on the wave height evolution on a varying coastal topography.The shoaling effect for the wave height is obviously weakened with the increase of the principal wave direction and with the decrease of the directional spreading parameter.With the simulated data,the classical Klopman wave height distribution model is improved by considering the influences of both factors.It is found that the improved model performs better in describing the wave height distribution for the multidirectional irregular waves in shallow water.
文摘In this paper experimental wind wave data are analyzed. It is found that differences in spectral width will give rise to differences in wave height distribution. The effect of spectral width on the distribution is mainly in the high wave range. The effect of wave steepness is in low, medium and high wave ranges. In the high wave range the effect of spectral width is comparable to that of wave steepness. Differences in spectral width in the observations may give rise to discrepancies in the result when wave steepness is the only parameter in the distribution.
基金Supported by Doctoral Fund of Education Ministry of China ( No. 20010056033) , National Natural Science Foundation of China(No. 10202003, No. 50479015) ,and National Science Fund for Distinguished Young Scholars(No. 03QMH1408).
文摘The wave characteristics affecting coastal sediment transport include wave height, wave period and breaking wave direction. Wave height is a critical factor in determining the amount of sediment transport in the coastal area. The force of sediment transport is much more intense under breaking waves than under non-breaking waves. Breaking waves exhibit various patterns, principal- ly depending on the incident wave steepness and the beach slope. Based on the equations of con- servation of mass, momentum and energy, a theoretical model for wave deformation in and outside the surf zone was obtained, which is used to calculate the wave shoaling, wave set-up and set- down and wave height distributions in and outside the surf zone. The analysis and comparison were made about the breaking point location and the wave height decay caused by the wave breaking and the bottom friction. Flume experiments relating to the spilling wave height distribution across the surf zone were conducted to verify the theoretical model. Advanced wave maker, data sampling de- vices and data processing system were utilized in the flume experiments with a slope covered by sands of different diameters to facilitate the observation and research on the wave transformation and breaking. The agreement between the theoretical and experimental results is good.
文摘In this paper, the mechanism of the interaction between the breast wall of mound breakwater and waves is expounded, then some new views and the law of variation of horizontal and vertical wave pressure over the breast wall are put forward. The results of this study have been adopted in the Specifications of Fishery Harbour Breakwater by the Ministry of Agricultures.
文摘In this paper, the calculating charts and formulae about wave pressure on the breast wall are derived with seven parameters on the basis of physical model study. The verification shows that the charts agree with the example, and are adopted in the Specifications of Fishery Harbours Breakwater by the Ministry of Agricultures.
基金Supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (No.40476018)the Knowledge Innovation Program of Chinese Academy of Sciences (KZCX2-YW201)
文摘Because of the intrinsic difficulty in determining distributions for wave periods, previous studies on wave period distribution models have not taken nonlinearity into account and have not performed well in terms of describing and statistically analyzing the probability density distribution of ocean waves. In this study, a statistical model of random waves is developed using Stokes wave theory of water wave dynamics. In addition, a new nonlinear probability distribution function for the wave period is presented with the parameters of spectral density width and nonlinear wave steepness, which is more reasonable as a physical mechanism. The magnitude of wave steepness determines the intensity of the nonlinear effect, while the spectral width only changes the energy distribution. The wave steepness is found to be an important parameter in terms of not only dynamics but also statistics. The value of wave steepness reflects the degree that the wave period distribution skews from the Cauchy distribution, and it also describes the variation in the distribution function, which resembles that of the wave surface elevation distribution and wave height distribution. We found that the distribution curves skew leftward and upward as the wave steepness increases. The wave period observations for the SZFII-1 buoy, made off the coast of Weihai （37°27.6′N, 122°15.1′ E）, China, are used to verify the new distribution. The coefficient of the correlation between the new distribution and the buoy data at different spectral widths （v=0.3-3.5） is within the range of 0.9686 to 0.991 7. In addition, the Longuet-Higgins （1975） and Sun （1988） distributions and the new distribution presented in this work are compared. The validations and comparisons indicate that the new nonlinear probability density distribution fits the buoy measurements better than the Longuet-Higgins and Sun distributions do. We believe that adoption of the new wave period distribution would improve traditional statistical wave theory.
文摘Distribution of wave heights and surface elevations of wind-driven waves are studied. Records of surface elevations obtained from both field observations and laboratory measurements are analyzed. Wave heights can be approximated by normal, two-parameter Weibull, and/or Rayleigh distribution. However, while the first two models may have almost equal probabilities to fit measured data quite satisfactorily, the Rayleigh distribution does not appear to be a good model for the majority of the cases studied. Surface elevations from field data are well described by the Gaussian model, but as with increasing wind speeds, water surface in a wind-wave flume deviates from normality, and the Edgeworth/s form of the type A Gram-Charlier series is then applied.
文摘This paper reveals that the long-period statistic distribution of the characteristic heights of deep-water waves assumes the lognormal distribution. Thereafter, the largest wave-height which may occur in the service life of coastal structures is derived in this paper.
基金Supported by the National High Technology Research and Development Program of China(863 Program)(No.2013AA09A505)the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Nos.U1133001,41376027,41406017)the NSFC-Shandong Joint Fund for Marine Science Research Centers(No.U1406401)
文摘The probability distribution of wave heights under the assumption of narrowband linear wave theory follows the Rayleigh distribution and the statistical relationships between some characteristic wave heights, derived from this distribution, are widely used for the treatment of realistic wind waves. However, the bandwidth of wave frequency influences the probability distribution of wave heights. In this paper, a wave-spectrum-width parameter B was introduced into the JONSWAP spectrum. This facilitated the construction of a wind-wave spectrum and the reconstruction of wind-wave time series for various growth stages, based on which the probability density distributions of the wind-wave heights were studied statistically. The distribution curves deviated slightly from the theoretical Rayleigh distribution with increasing B. The probability that a wave height exceeded a certain value was clearly smaller than the theoretical value for B≥0.3, and the difference between them increased with the threshold value. The relation between the Hs/σ ratio and B was investigated statistically, which revealed that the Hs/σ ratio deviated from 4.005 and declined with B. When B reached 0.698 1, the Hs/σ ratio was 3.825, which is about 95.5% of its original value. This indicates an overestimation in the a potential method for improving the accuracy of the Hs extremely large waves under severe sea states. prediction of Hs from Hs=4.005σ, and provides remote sensing retrieval algorithm, critical for
基金Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.11327404 and U1432118)the Natural Science Research Programme of Education Department of Anhui Province,China(Grant Nos.KJ2013A260 and KJ2016A749)
文摘The relativistic and distorted wave effects are investigated for the electron momentum distributions of Xe 4d electrons.The theoretical results show good agreements with the experimental data measured previously with electron momentum spectroscopy. The distorted wave effect and the relativistic effect are found to play important roles in the low and high momentum regions, respectively.
文摘By analysing the scatter diagrams of characteristic the wave height H and the period T on the basis of instrumental data from various ocean wave stations, we found that the conditional expectation and standard deviation of wave period for a given wave height can be better predicted by using the equations of normal linear regression rather than by those based on the log- normal law. The latter was implied in Ochi' s bivariate log-normal model(Ochi. 1978) for the long-term joint distribution of H and T. With the expectation and standard deviation predicted by the normal linear regression equations and applying proper types of distribution, we have obtained the conditional distribution of T for given H. Then combining this conditional P(T / H) with long-term marginal distribution of the wave height P(H) we establish a new parameterized model for the long-term joint distribution P(H,T). As an example of the application of the new model we give a method for estimating wave period associated with an extreme wave height.
基金financially supported by the National Nature Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.51109032 and 11172058)A Foundation for the Author of National Excellent Doctoral Dissertation of PR China(FANEDD,Grant No.201347)
文摘This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope （1：40）. Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this purpose. The results indicate that the wave heights obey the Rayleigh distribution at the offshore location; however, in the shoaling region, the heights of the largest waves are underestimated by the theoretical distributions. In the surf zone, the wave heights can be approximated by the composite Weibull distribution. In addition, the nonlinear phase coupling within the irregular waves is investigated by the wavelet-based bicoherence. The bicoherence spectra reflect that the number of frequency modes participating in the phase coupling increases with the decreasing water depth, as does the degree of phase coupling. After the incipient breaking, even though the degree of phase coupling decreases, a great number of higher harmonic wave modes are also involved in nonlinear interactions. Moreover, the summed bicoherence indicates that the frequency mode related to the strongest local nonlinear interactions shifts to higher harmonics with the decreasing water depth.
基金supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (51279186)the Open Fund of the Shandong Province Key Laboratory of Ocean Engineering,Ocean University of China (201362045)
文摘Wave simulation was conducted for the period 1976 to 2005 in the South China Sea （SCS） using the wave model, WAVEWATCH-III. Wave characteristics and engineering environment were studied in the region. The wind input data are from the objective reanalysis wind datasets, which assimilate meteorological data from several sources. Comparisons of significant wave heights between simulation and TOPEX/Poseidon altimeter and buoy data show a good agreement in general. By statistical analysis, the wave characteristics, such as significant wave heights, dominant wave directions, and their seasonal variations, were discussed. The largest significant wave heights are found in winter and the smallest in spring. The annual mean dominant wave direction is northeast （NE） along the southwest （SW）-NE axis, east northeast in the northwest （NW） part of SCS, and north northeast in the southeast （SE） part of SCS. The joint distributions of wave heights and wave periods （directions） were studied. The results show a single peak pattern for joint significant wave heights and periods, and a double peak pattern for joint significant wave heights and mean directions. Furthermore, the main wave extreme parameters and directional extreme values, particularly for the 100-year return period, were also investigated. The main extreme values of significant wave heights are larger in the northern part of SCS than in the south- ern part, with the maximum value occurring to the southeast of Hainan Island. The direction of large directional extreme Hs values is focus in E in the northem and middle sea areas of SCS, while the direction of those is focus in N in the southeast sea areas of SCS.
基金National Natural Science Foundation of China(41575066)National Science and Technology Support Program of China(2015BAC03B04)
文摘The East Asian subtropical westerly jet(EASWJ)is one of the most important factors modulating the Meiyu rainfall in the Yangtze-Huaihe River Basin,China.This article analyzed periods of the medium-term EASWJ variation,wave packet distribution and energy propagation of Rossby waves along the EASWJ during Meiyu season,and investigated their possible influence on abnormal Meiyu rain.The results showed that during the medium-term scale atmospheric dynamic process,the evolution of the EASWJ in Meiyu season was mainly characterized by the changes of3-8 d synoptic-scale and 10-15 d low-frequency Rossby waves.The strong perturbation wave packet and energy propagation of the 3-8 d synoptic-scale and 10-15 d low-frequency Rossby waves are mostly concentrated in the East Asian region of 90°-150°E,where the two wave trains of perturbation wave packets and wave-activity flux divergence coexist in zonal and meridional directions,and converge on the EASWJ.Besides,the wave trains of perturbation wave packet and wave-activity flux divergence in wet Meiyu years are more systematically westward than those in dry Meiyu years,and they are shown in the inverse phases between each other.In wet(dry)Meiyu year,the perturbation wave packet high-value area of the 10-15 d low-frequency variability is located between the Aral Sea and the Lake Balkhash(in the northeastern part of China),while over eastern China the wave-activity flux is convergent and strong(divergent and weak),and the high-level jets are strong and southward(weak and northward).Because of the coupling of high and low level atmosphere and high-level strong(weak)divergence on the south side of the jet over the Yangtze-Huaihe River Basin,the low-level southwest wind and vertically ascending motion are strengthened(weakened),which is(is not)conducive to precipitation increase in the Yangtze-Huaihe River Basin.These findings would help to better understand the impact mechanisms of the EASWJ activities on abnormal Meiyu from the perspective of medium-term scale Rossby wave energy propagation.
文摘The maximum entropy principle (MEP) method and the corresponding probability evaluation method are introduced, and the maximum entropy probability distribution expression is deduced in moment of the second order. Fully developed wave height distribution in deep water and wave height and period distribution for different depths in wind wave channel experiment are obtained from the MEP method, and the results are compared with the distribution and the experimental histogram. The wave height and period distribution for the Lianyungang port is also obtained by the MEP method, and the results are compared with the Weibull distribution and the field histogram.
文摘Statistical analysis was done on simultaneous wave and wind using data recorded by discus-shape wave buoy. The area is located in the southern Caspian Sea near the Anzali Port. Recorded wave data were obtained through directional spectrum wave analysis. Recorded wind direction and wind speed were obtained through the related time series as well. For 12-month measurements（May 25 2007-2008）, statistical calculations were done to specify the value of nonlinear auto-correlation of wave and wind using the probability distribution function of wave characteristics and statistical analysis in various time periods. The paper also presents and analyzes the amount of wave energy for the area mentioned on the basis of available database. Analyses showed a suitable comparison between the amounts of wave energy in different seasons. As a result, the best period for the largest amount of wave energy was known. Results showed that in the research period, the mean wave and wind auto correlation were about three hours. Among the probability distribution functions, i.e Weibull, Normal, Lognormal and Rayleigh, ＂Weibull＂ had the best consistency with experimental distribution function shown in different diagrams for each season. Results also showed that the mean wave energy in the research period was about 49.88 k W/m and the maximum density of wave energy was found in February and March, 2010.
基金supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.40875084and40705012)the National Key Technologies R&D Program of China(Grant No.2008BAC40B00)
文摘The latitude-altitude distributions of radiative fluxes and heating rates are investigated by utilizing CloudSat satellite data over China during summer. The Tibetan Plateau causes the downward shortwave fluxes of the lower atmosphere over central China to be smaller than the fluxes over southern and northern China by generating more clouds. The existence of a larger quantity of clouds over central China reflects a greater amount of solar radiation back into space. The vertical gradients of upward shortwave radiative fluxes in the atmosphere below 8 km are greater than those above 8 km. The latitudinal-altitude distributions of downward longwave radiative fluxes show a slantwise decreasing trend from low latitudes to high latitudes that gradually weaken in the downward direction. The upward longwave radiative fluxes also weaken in the upward direction but with larger gradients. The maximum heating rates by solar radiation and cooling rates by longwave infrared radiation are located over 28 40°N at 7 8 km mean sea level (MSL), and they are larger than the rates in the northern and southern regions. The heating and cooling rates match well both vertically and geographically.
基金supported by the National High Technology Research and Development Program (‘863’ Program) of China under contract No. 2012AA091701the Fundamental Research Fund for the Central University of China under the contract No. 2012212020211
文摘This study was conducted on the spatial distribution characteristics of surface tidal currents in the southwestern Taiwan Strait based on the quasi-harmonic analysis of current data obtained by two high frequency surface wave radar(HFSWR) systems. The analysis shows that the tidal current pattern in the southwestern Taiwan Strait is primarily semi-diurnal and influenced significantly by shallow water constituents. The spatial distribution of tidal current ellipses of M2 is probably affected by the interaction between two different systems of tide wave, one from the northern mouth of Taiwan Strait and the other from the Bashi Channel. The directions of the major axes of M2 tidal current ellipses coincide roughly with the axis of the Taiwan Strait. The spatial distribution of the magnitudes of the probable maximum current velocity(PMCS) shows gradual increase of the velocity from northeast to southwest, which is in accordance with the spatial distribution of the measured maximum current velocity(MMCS). The directions of the residual currents are in accordance with the direction of the prevailing monsoon wind at the Taiwan Strait and the direction of the Taiwan warm current during summer. The bathymetry also shows a significant effect on the spatial distribution characteristics of tidal currents.
