The early stages of a spilling breaking water wave leading to the formation of a bulge on the forward face of the wave are investigated. In this study, simultaneous space-time measurements of the free-surface elevatio...The early stages of a spilling breaking water wave leading to the formation of a bulge on the forward face of the wave are investigated. In this study, simultaneous space-time measurements of the free-surface elevation of a spilling breaking water wave are recorded and analyzed. The analysis, carried out in the frame of reference moving with the crest of the wave,reveals that the formation of the bulge is due to the presence of a shock-like mode. In the previous frame of reference, the shock itself is unsteady but its (spatial) location is time independent and coincides with the 'toe' of the bulge. As time increases, the shock undergoes a flip (a reflection symmetry) with respect to the midpoint of our time interval. Such a flip is responsible for an abrupt increase of the wave steepe-ness, which will lead to wave breaking at later times. Following these observations, we present a two-dimensional quantitative model which reproduces both the formation of the bulge and the sudden increase of the wave steepeness.展开更多
文摘The early stages of a spilling breaking water wave leading to the formation of a bulge on the forward face of the wave are investigated. In this study, simultaneous space-time measurements of the free-surface elevation of a spilling breaking water wave are recorded and analyzed. The analysis, carried out in the frame of reference moving with the crest of the wave,reveals that the formation of the bulge is due to the presence of a shock-like mode. In the previous frame of reference, the shock itself is unsteady but its (spatial) location is time independent and coincides with the 'toe' of the bulge. As time increases, the shock undergoes a flip (a reflection symmetry) with respect to the midpoint of our time interval. Such a flip is responsible for an abrupt increase of the wave steepe-ness, which will lead to wave breaking at later times. Following these observations, we present a two-dimensional quantitative model which reproduces both the formation of the bulge and the sudden increase of the wave steepeness.
