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Third-Order Stokes Wave Solutions of the Free Surface Capillary- Gravity Wave and the Interfacial Internal Wave 被引量:1
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作者 MENG Rui-jun CUI Ji-feng +2 位作者 CHEN Xiao-gang ZHANG Bao-le ZHANG Hong-bo 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI CSCD 2017年第6期781-787,共7页
Based on the Stokes wave theory, the capillary-gravity wave and the interfacial internal wave in two-layer constant depth's fluid system are investigated. The fluids are assumed to be incompressible, inviscid and irr... Based on the Stokes wave theory, the capillary-gravity wave and the interfacial internal wave in two-layer constant depth's fluid system are investigated. The fluids are assumed to be incompressible, inviscid and irrotational. The third-order Stokes wave solutions are given by using a perturbation method. The results indicate that the third-order solutions depend on the surface tension, the density and the depth of each layer. As expected, the first-order solutions are the linear theoretical results (the small amplitude wave theoretical results). The second-order and the third-order solutions describe the nonlinear modification and the nonlinear interactions. The nonlinear impact appears not only in the n (n〉~2) times' high frequency components, but also in the low frequency components. It is also noted that the wave velocity depends on the wave number, depth, wave amplitude and surface tension. 展开更多
关键词 surface tension capillary-gravity waves stokes wave theory third-order stokes wave solutions
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Third-order Stokes wave solutions for interfacial internal waves in a three-layer density-stratified fluid
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作者 陈小刚 郭志萍 +4 位作者 宋金宝 赫晓东 郭军明 包曙红 崔巍 《Chinese Physics B》 SCIE EI CAS CSCD 2009年第5期1906-1916,共11页
Interracial internal waves in a three-layer density-stratified fluid are investigated using a singular perturbation method, and third-order asymptotic solutions of the velocity potentials and third-order Stokes wave s... Interracial internal waves in a three-layer density-stratified fluid are investigated using a singular perturbation method, and third-order asymptotic solutions of the velocity potentials and third-order Stokes wave solutions of the associated elevations of the interfacial waves are presented based on the small amplitude wave theory. As expected, the third-order solutions describe the third-order nonlinear modification and the third-order nonlinear interactions between the interracial waves. The wave velocity depends on not only the wave number and the depth of each layer but also on the wave amplitude. 展开更多
关键词 three-layer density-stratified fluid interracial internal waves third-order stokes wavesolutions small amplitude wave theory
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基于浮标数据评估三阶Stokes波的非线性海浪谱
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作者 贺超超 王子韵 +4 位作者 蔡烽 王海丽 王锦 刘雨立 董昌明 《海洋学研究》 北大核心 2025年第3期11-20,共10页
海浪是海洋动力要素的关键组成部分,对海上航行与海上作业具有显著影响。利用海浪谱可以有效表征海浪能量在频率域上的统计分布特性。本文利用70个NDBC浮标站点的数据,分别基于JONSWAP谱与三阶Stokes波的非线性谱进行有效波高反演。结... 海浪是海洋动力要素的关键组成部分,对海上航行与海上作业具有显著影响。利用海浪谱可以有效表征海浪能量在频率域上的统计分布特性。本文利用70个NDBC浮标站点的数据,分别基于JONSWAP谱与三阶Stokes波的非线性谱进行有效波高反演。结果表明,与JONSWAP谱反演结果相比,非线性谱的绝对误差和相对误差平均提升程度均超过10%,最大提升程度分别达到28.54%和22.29%,具有显著优势。非线性谱相对于JONSWAP谱的提升程度与有效波高、风速、风向与波向的夹角以及站点水深的关系表明:提升程度随有效波高增加而增加;风速越大,提升程度越大;夹角越小,提升程度越大,且风速对于提升程度的影响远大于夹角的影响;在水深500 m以浅,两种海浪谱的反演精度均高于500 m以深,但在500~5500 m水深区间内,非线性谱的提升程度超过浅水区,存在线性增加趋势。 展开更多
关键词 海浪谱 波高反演 非线性谱 三阶stokes JONSWAP谱 NDBC浮标
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Stokes波作用下张紧式组合刚度系泊浮式防波堤水动力响应研究
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作者 亢戈霖 张雨 +1 位作者 金瑞佳 耿宝磊 《水运工程》 2025年第4期14-22,72,共10页
为适应海洋工程深水化发展,提出将张紧式系泊方案与组合刚度系泊方式相结合,并应用于浮式防波堤。基于势流理论下的高阶边界元方法,建立张紧式组合刚度系泊的浮式防波堤数值模型,将绕射波浪力与经典文献对比,证明了数值模型的准确性。... 为适应海洋工程深水化发展,提出将张紧式系泊方案与组合刚度系泊方式相结合,并应用于浮式防波堤。基于势流理论下的高阶边界元方法,建立张紧式组合刚度系泊的浮式防波堤数值模型,将绕射波浪力与经典文献对比,证明了数值模型的准确性。设定入射波为二阶Stokes波,分析组合系泊刚度和钢缆长度因素影响下的浮式防波堤水动力特性,并计算系泊张力安全系数。研究发现:在各波周期下浮堤在垂荡方向运动曲线呈现出明显的不规则现象,系泊几何非线性影响显著。不同系泊刚度方案的几何非线性程度不同,防波堤运动幅度差异较大,不同钢缆长度的防波堤运动位移统计结果接近,运动特性相似。最后结合系泊张力安全系数比较,得出适合设计波浪条件的张紧式组合刚度系泊系统参数。 展开更多
关键词 浮式防波堤 张紧式系泊 势流理论 组合刚度系泊 stokes 系泊安全
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极端浪对Stokes漂流的影响
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作者 王玉翠 王智祖 +3 位作者 王可可 杨雨轩 郑清丹 左军成 《海洋科学进展》 北大核心 2025年第4期750-762,共13页
本文利用WRF模型提供的10 m高度的风场数据,驱动第三代海浪模型SWAN进行波浪模拟,成功模拟了台风“安攀”影响下的海浪场景。将风场与海浪场模拟结果分别与HY-2B卫星散射计数据以及Jason-3卫星高度计的观测结果进行对比验证显示,WRF模... 本文利用WRF模型提供的10 m高度的风场数据,驱动第三代海浪模型SWAN进行波浪模拟,成功模拟了台风“安攀”影响下的海浪场景。将风场与海浪场模拟结果分别与HY-2B卫星散射计数据以及Jason-3卫星高度计的观测结果进行对比验证显示,WRF模式能较好地模拟“安攀”台风的发展、演变以及登陆过程,为SWAN模型模拟孟加拉湾台风浪提供精细化的风场驱动。运用此结果深入研究了2020年孟加拉湾“安攀”台风期间由波浪引发的Stokes漂流及其影响的特征。结果显示,该台风在研究区域产生了强烈的气旋和巨大的台风浪,最大风速达到65 m/s,最低气压为940 hPa,最大有效波高达到16 m。由台风浪引起的Stokes漂流超过0.9 m/s,Stokes影响深度超过20 m,Stokes输运强度达到7 m2/s。此外,台风期间10 m风速、波浪有效波高、Stokes漂流速度、Stokes影响深度和Stokes输运的空间分布均与台风移动路径高度相关,沿台风移动路径的分布显示出明显的经向不对称性,台风路径右侧的强度大于左侧。 展开更多
关键词 台风 海浪 stokes漂流 WRF SWAN模型
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深水五阶Stokes波的快速近似计算方法
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作者 赖隽澜 张琪 +2 位作者 张超民 盖宏扬 张洋 《中国水运》 2025年第5期151-153,共3页
本文给出一个快速近似计算深水五阶Stokes波波面升高的方法。利用ABR三角级数拟合深水五阶Stokes波的波面升高解析解,并得到ABR三角级数中参数r与波浪要素之间的函数关系,进而可以利用该函数关系快速近似计算深水五阶Stokes波波面升高... 本文给出一个快速近似计算深水五阶Stokes波波面升高的方法。利用ABR三角级数拟合深水五阶Stokes波的波面升高解析解,并得到ABR三角级数中参数r与波浪要素之间的函数关系,进而可以利用该函数关系快速近似计算深水五阶Stokes波波面升高。结果表明,ABR三角级数可以拟合深水五阶Stokes波波面升高的解析解,拟合偏差随波高增加或周期变短而增加。利用波陡估计r偏差很小,因此可以利用ABR三角级数快速近似计算深水五阶Stokes波的波面升高。 展开更多
关键词 五阶stokes 波陡 快速计算
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Typhoon-Induced Ocean Waves and Stokes Drift:A Case Study of Typhoon Mangkhut(2018)
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作者 WU Zhi-yuan GAO Kai +6 位作者 CHEN Jie ZHANG Hao-jian DENG Bin JIANG Chang-bo LIU Yi-zhuang LYU Zhao YAN Ren 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI CSCD 2024年第4期711-724,共14页
Ocean waves and Stokes drift are generated by typhoons.This study investigated the characteristics of ocean waves and wave-induced Stokes drift and their effects during Typhoon Mangkhut using European Centre for Mediu... Ocean waves and Stokes drift are generated by typhoons.This study investigated the characteristics of ocean waves and wave-induced Stokes drift and their effects during Typhoon Mangkhut using European Centre for MediumRange Weather Forecasts(ECMWF)ERA5 datasets and observational data.The results revealed that the typhoon generated intense cyclones and huge typhoon waves with a maximum wind speed of 45 m/s,a minimum pressure of955 h Pa,and a maximum significant wave height of 12 m.The Stokes drift caused by typhoon waves exceeded 0.6m/s,the Stokes depth scale exceeded 18 m,and the maximum Stokes transport reached 6 m^(2)/s.The spatial distribution of 10-m wind speed,typhoon wave height,Stokes drift,Stokes depth,and Stokes transport during the typhoon was highly correlated with the typhoon track.The distribution along the typhoon track showed significant zonal asymmetry,with greater intensity on the right side of the typhoon track than on the left side.These findings provide important insights into the impact of typhoons on ocean waves and Stokes drift,thus improving our understanding of the interactions between typhoons and the ocean environment.This study also investigated the contribution of Stokes transport to the total net transport during typhoons using Ekman-Stokes Numbers as a comparative measure.The results indicated that the ratio of Stokes transport to the total net transport reached up to 50%within the typhoon radius,while it was approximately 30%outside the radius.Strong Stokes transport induced by typhoon waves led to divergence in the transport direction,which resulted in upwelling of the lower ocean as a compensation current.Thus,Stokes transport played a crucial role in the vertical mixing of the ocean during typhoons.The findings suggested that Stokes transport should be paid more attention to,particularly in high latitude ocean regions,where strong winds can amplify its effects. 展开更多
关键词 stokes drift typhoon waves Ekman-stokes transport vertical mixing Typhoon Mangkhut
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二阶Stokes波作用下多孔弹性海床动力响应解析解
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作者 王哲 周博豪 +1 位作者 张智卿 李西斌 《岩土工程学报》 EI CAS CSCD 北大核心 2024年第9期1791-1799,共9页
基于二阶Stokes波理论,研究了非线性海洋波作用下多孔弹性海床的动力响应问题。利用Biot固结理论以及Verruijt储存方程,在笛卡尔坐标下建立了海床的控制方程。通过将海洋波函数拓展到复数域,采用严格的数学推导求得了海床动力响应的解析... 基于二阶Stokes波理论,研究了非线性海洋波作用下多孔弹性海床的动力响应问题。利用Biot固结理论以及Verruijt储存方程,在笛卡尔坐标下建立了海床的控制方程。通过将海洋波函数拓展到复数域,采用严格的数学推导求得了海床动力响应的解析解,并将该解与既有解进行对比验证。最后分析了波浪和海床特征参数对海床有效应力、剪切应力和孔压分布的影响,结果表明波浪和海床的参数对海床动力响应具有显著的影响。其中波浪周期和水深对二阶Stokes波的二阶项有较大影响,渗透系数和剪切模量则分别影响海床动力响应的变化速率和幅值。 展开更多
关键词 二阶stokes 海床 动力响应 解析解
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On the Fifth-Order Stokes Solution for Steady Water Waves 被引量:2
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作者 ZHAO Hong-jun SONG Zhi-yao +3 位作者 LI Ling KONG Jun WANG Le-qiang YANG Jie 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI CSCD 2016年第5期794-810,共17页
This paper presents a universal fifth-order Stokes solution for steady water waves on the basis of potential theory. It uses a global perturbation parameter, considers a depth uniform current, and thus admits the flex... This paper presents a universal fifth-order Stokes solution for steady water waves on the basis of potential theory. It uses a global perturbation parameter, considers a depth uniform current, and thus admits the flexibilities on the definition of the perturbation parameter and on the determination of the wave celerity. The universal solution can be extended to that of Chappelear (1961), confirming the correctness for the universal theory. Furthermore, a particular fifth-order solution is obtained where the wave steepness is used as the perturbation parameter. The applicable range of this solution in shallow depth is analyzed. Comparisons with the Fourier approximated results and with the experimental measurements show that the solution is fairly suited to waves with the Ursell number not exceeding 46.7. 展开更多
关键词 steady water waves universal stokes solution fifth-order global perturbation parameter uniform current wave steepness
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Optimum fifth order Stokes wave theory 被引量:1
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作者 Fu Yuhua(China Offshore Oil Development & Engineering Corporation, P. O. Box 4709, Beijing 100027, China) 《Acta Oceanologica Sinica》 SCIE CAS CSCD 1995年第1期91-101,共11页
This Paper improves the existing fifth order Stokes wave theory by using least Square method, and givesthe optimum result in the meaning of minimum error Squares to satisfy the free surface boundary conditions, and th... This Paper improves the existing fifth order Stokes wave theory by using least Square method, and givesthe optimum result in the meaning of minimum error Squares to satisfy the free surface boundary conditions, and thewave profile can be adjusted according to the measured data. This paper also gives a simplified method for derivingthe parameters of the existing fifth order Stokes wave. 展开更多
关键词 stokes wave theory least square method OPTIMIZATION wave profile
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The dispersion of surface contaminants by Stokes drift in random waves 被引量:1
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作者 HUANG Guoxing LAW Wing-Keung Adrian 《Acta Oceanologica Sinica》 SCIE CAS CSCD 2018年第7期55-61,共7页
Contaminants that are floating on the surface of the ocean are subjected to the action of random waves.In the literature,it has been asserted by researchers that the random wave action will lead to a dispersion mechan... Contaminants that are floating on the surface of the ocean are subjected to the action of random waves.In the literature,it has been asserted by researchers that the random wave action will lead to a dispersion mechanism through the induced Stokes drift,and that this dispersion mechanism may have the same order of significance comparable with the others means due to tidal currents and wind.It is investigated whether or not surface floating substances will disperse in the random wave environment due to the induced Stokes drift.An analytical derivation is first performed to obtain the drift velocity under the random waves.From the analysis,it is shown that the drift velocity is a time-independent value that does not possess any fluctuation given a specific wave energy spectrum.Thus,the random wave drift by itself should not have a dispersive effect on the surface floating substances.Experiments were then conducted with small floating objects subjected to P-M spectral waves in a laboratory wave flume,and the experimental results reinforced the conclusion drawn. 展开更多
关键词 DISPERSION surface contaminants random wave stokes drift
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Singularity and Breaking of the Third Order Stokes Waves 被引量:1
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作者 孙孚 高山 +1 位作者 王伟 钱成春 《海洋工程:英文版》 2003年第1期111-116,共6页
In this paper, the fact is revealed that the surface elevation of the third order Stokes waves in implicit form could have no solution or have simultaneously a trivial one and a singular one on certain conditions. Bas... In this paper, the fact is revealed that the surface elevation of the third order Stokes waves in implicit form could have no solution or have simultaneously a trivial one and a singular one on certain conditions. Based on this fact, the relative breaking width, a more reasonable quantity in agreement with the definition of whitecapping coverage rate, is obtained directly from the assumption that no solution means breaking. The implications of the singular solution existing in the third order stokes waves are also discussed briefly. 展开更多
关键词 stokes waves breaking criterion breaking width SINGULARITY
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NONLINEAR STABILITY OF VISCOUS SHOCK WAVES FOR ONE-DIMENSIONAL NONISENTROPIC COMPRESSIBLE NAVIER–STOKES EQUATIONS WITH A CLASS OF LARGE INITIAL PERTURBATION 被引量:1
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作者 Shaojun TANG Lan ZHANG +2 位作者 School of Mathematics and Statistics Wuhan University 《Acta Mathematica Scientia》 SCIE CSCD 2018年第3期973-1000,共28页
We study the nonlinear stability of viscous shock waves for the Cauchy problem of one-dimensional nonisentropic compressible Navier–Stokes equations for a viscous and heat conducting ideal polytropic gas. The viscous... We study the nonlinear stability of viscous shock waves for the Cauchy problem of one-dimensional nonisentropic compressible Navier–Stokes equations for a viscous and heat conducting ideal polytropic gas. The viscous shock waves are shown to be time asymptotically stable under large initial perturbation with no restriction on the range of the adiabatic exponent provided that the strengths of the viscous shock waves are assumed to be sufficiently small.The proofs are based on the nonlinear energy estimates and the crucial step is to obtain the positive lower and upper bounds of the density and the temperature which are uniformly in time and space. 展开更多
关键词 One-dimensional nonisentropic compressible Navier–stokes equations viscous shock waves nonlinear stability large initial perturbation
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STABILITY OF VISCOUS CONTACT WAVE FOR COMPRESSIBLE NAVIER-STOKES SYSTEM OF GENERAL GAS WITH FREE BOUNDARY 被引量:7
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作者 黄飞敏 王勇 翟晓云 《Acta Mathematica Scientia》 SCIE CSCD 2010年第6期1906-1916,共11页
In this paper, we study the large time behavior of solutions to the nonisentropic Navier-Stokes equations of general gas, where polytropic gas is included as a special case, with a free boundary. First we construct a ... In this paper, we study the large time behavior of solutions to the nonisentropic Navier-Stokes equations of general gas, where polytropic gas is included as a special case, with a free boundary. First we construct a viscous contact wave which approximates to the contact discontinuity, which is a basic wave pattern of compressible Euler equation, in finite time as the heat conductivity tends to zero. Then we prove the viscous contact wave is asymptotic stable if the initial perturbations and the strength of the contact wave are small. This generalizes our previous result [6] which is only for polytropic gas. 展开更多
关键词 Navier-stokes equations contact discontinuity viscous contact wave
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A NEW WAY FOR DERIVING HIGH ORDER STOKES WAVES 被引量:2
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作者 Fu Yuhua Engineer, Engineering Dept., China National Offshore Oil Corp., Beijing 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI 1989年第1期87-93,共7页
Variational principle for non-vortex, non-linear wave theories is established in this paper. By using this variational principle and related functional minimum condition, the fifth and sixth order Stokes Vaves are giv... Variational principle for non-vortex, non-linear wave theories is established in this paper. By using this variational principle and related functional minimum condition, the fifth and sixth order Stokes Vaves are given as an example and the results are compared with those in Reference (Skjel-breia, 1961). 展开更多
关键词 A NEW WAY FOR DERIVING HIGH ORDER stokes waveS
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GLOBAL STABILITY OF WAVE PATTERNS FOR COMPRESSIBLE NAVIER-STOKES SYSTEM WITH FREE BOUNDARY 被引量:3
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作者 秦晓红 王腾 王益 《Acta Mathematica Scientia》 SCIE CSCD 2016年第4期1192-1214,共23页
In this article, we investigate the global stability of the wave patterns with the superposition of viscous contact wave and rarefaction wave for the one-dimensional compressible Navier-Stokes equations with a free bo... In this article, we investigate the global stability of the wave patterns with the superposition of viscous contact wave and rarefaction wave for the one-dimensional compressible Navier-Stokes equations with a free boundary. It is shown that for the ideal polytropic gas, the superposition of the viscous contact wave with rarefaction wave is nonlinearly stable for the free boundary problem under the large initial perturbations for any γ 〉 1 with V being the adiabatic exponent provided that the wave strength is suitably small. 展开更多
关键词 Compressible Navier-stokes system free boundary combination of viscous contact and rarefaction wave nonlinear stability
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STABILITY OF VISCOUS SHOCK WAVES FOR THE ONE-DIMENSIONAL COMPRESSIBLE NAVIER-STOKES EQUATIONS WITH DENSITY-DEPENDENT VISCOSITY 被引量:3
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作者 何躏 唐少君 王涛 《Acta Mathematica Scientia》 SCIE CSCD 2016年第1期34-48,共15页
We study the large-time behavior toward viscous shock waves to the Cauchy problem of the one-dimensional compressible isentropic Navier-Stokes equations with density- dependent viscosity. The nonlinear stability of th... We study the large-time behavior toward viscous shock waves to the Cauchy problem of the one-dimensional compressible isentropic Navier-Stokes equations with density- dependent viscosity. The nonlinear stability of the viscous shock waves is shown for certain class of large initial perturbation with integral zero which can allow the initial density to have large oscillation. Our analysis relies upon the technique developed by Kanel~ and the continuation argument. 展开更多
关键词 viscous shock waves density-dependent viscosity one-dimensional compress-ible Navier-stokes equations nonlinear stability large density oscillation
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THE LIMITING STOKES WAVE WITH FINITE WATER DEPTH
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作者 马瑜 陈耀松 《Applied Mathematics and Mechanics(English Edition)》 SCIE EI 1993年第9期887-889,共3页
In this paper we extend the method developed in[1] for limiting Stokes wave of infinite water depth to cover the case of finite depth. The method has high efficiency and the result is accurate.
关键词 stokes wave limiting wave OPTIMIZATION
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Simplified Method and Improved Solution for Deriving Fifth Order Stokes Wave
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作者 Fu Yuhua Senior Engineer, China Offshore Oil Production Research Center, P. O. Box 9607, Beijing 100086 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI 1997年第4期431-440,共10页
As the solution of the two equations for determining the existing fifth order Stokes wave derived by Skjelbreia is complex and tedious, the two equations are simplified into one equation for determining d / L, i. e., ... As the solution of the two equations for determining the existing fifth order Stokes wave derived by Skjelbreia is complex and tedious, the two equations are simplified into one equation for determining d / L, i. e., f(H, T, d / L) = 0. According to this simplified method, three cases of the solution for the Skjelbreia equations have been found: one accurate solution; more than one accurate solution and no accurate solution (but there exists the optimum approximate solution in the area of satisfying Skjelbreia equations). As to the case of more than one accurate solution, the reasonable solution can be judged from the method of variational principle, by means elf which an optimum solution improved from the solution of Skjelbreia equations in the area of satisfying the original mathematical equations of non-vortex and nonlinear wave theory, i. e., the optimum fifth order Stokes wave, is given. 展开更多
关键词 fifth order stokes wave simplified method variational principle improved solution
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ON THE RESONANT GENERATION OF WEAKLY NONLINEAR STOKES WAVES IN REGIONS WITH FAST VARYING TOPOGRAPHY AND FREE SURFACE CURRENT
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作者 黄虎 周锡礽 《Applied Mathematics and Mechanics(English Edition)》 SCIE EI 2001年第6期730-740,共11页
The effect of nonlinearity on the free surface wave resonated by an incident flow over rippled beds, which consist of fast varying topography superimposed on an otherwise slowly varying mean depth, is studied using a ... The effect of nonlinearity on the free surface wave resonated by an incident flow over rippled beds, which consist of fast varying topography superimposed on an otherwise slowly varying mean depth, is studied using a WKBJ-type perturbation approach. Synchronous, superharmonic and in particular subharmonic resonance were selectively excited over the fast varying topography with corresponding wavelengths. For a steady current the dynamical system is autonomous and the possible nonlinear steady states and their stability were investigated. When the current has a small oscillatory component the dynamical system becomes non-autonomous, chaos is now possible. 展开更多
关键词 nonlinear resonance weakly nonlinear stokes waves a free surface current rippled beds dynamical system
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