A new numerical finite difference iteration method for refraction-diffraction of waves ia water of slowly varying current and topography is developed in this paper. And corresponding theoretical model including the di...A new numerical finite difference iteration method for refraction-diffraction of waves ia water of slowly varying current and topography is developed in this paper. And corresponding theoretical model including the dissipation term is briefly described, together with some analysis and comparison of computational results of the model with measurements in a hydraulic scale model (Berkhoff et al., 1982). An example of practical use of the method is given, showing that the present model is useful to engineering practice.展开更多
Two mathematical models for combined refraction-diffraction of regular and irregular waves on non-uniform current in water of slowly varying topography are presented in this paper. Model I is derived by wave theory an...Two mathematical models for combined refraction-diffraction of regular and irregular waves on non-uniform current in water of slowly varying topography are presented in this paper. Model I is derived by wave theory and variational principle separately. It has two kinds of expressions including the dissipation term. Model n is based on the energy conservation equation with energy flux through the wave crest lines in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates and the wave kinematic conservation equation. The analysis and comparison and special cases of these two models are also given.展开更多
A three-dimensional numerical model of sand wave dynamics,incorporating the interaction of currents and waves at various angles,has been developed using the Regional Ocean Modeling System(ROMS).This model accounts for...A three-dimensional numerical model of sand wave dynamics,incorporating the interaction of currents and waves at various angles,has been developed using the Regional Ocean Modeling System(ROMS).This model accounts for both bedload and suspended load sediment transport under combined waves and current conditions.The investigation examines the influence of several key parameters,including the rotation angle of sand waves relative to the main current,tidal current velocity amplitude,residual current,water depth,wave height,wave period,and wave direction,on sand wave evolution.The growth rate and migration rate of sand waves decrease as their rotation angle increases.For rotation angles smaller than 15°,sand wave evolution can be effectively simulated by a vertical 2D model with an error within 10%.The numerical results demonstrate that variations in tidal current velocity amplitude or residual current affect both vertical growth and horizontal migration of sand waves.As tidal current velocity amplitude and residual current increase,the growth rate initially rises to a maximum before decreasing.The migration rate shows a consistent increase with increasing tidal current amplitude and residual current.Under combined waves and current,both growth and migration rates decrease as water depth increases.With increasing wave height and period,the growth rate and migration rate initially rise to maximum values before declining,while showing a consistent increase with wave height and period.The change rate of sand waves reaches its maximum when wave propagation aligns parallel to tidal currents,and reaches its minimum when wave propagation is perpendicular to the currents.This phenomenon can be explained by the fluctuation of total bed shear stress relative to the angle of interaction between waves and current.展开更多
-Wave refraction-diffraction due to a large ocean structure and topography in the presence of a 'current are studied numerically. The mathematical model is the mild-slope equation developed by Kirby (1984). This e...-Wave refraction-diffraction due to a large ocean structure and topography in the presence of a 'current are studied numerically. The mathematical model is the mild-slope equation developed by Kirby (1984). This equation is solved using a finite and boundary element method. The physical domain is devid-ed into two regions: a slowly varying topography region and a constant water depth region. For waves propagating in the constant water depth region, without current interfering, the mild- slope equation is then reduced to the Helmholtz equation which is solved by boundary element method. In varying topography region, this equation will be solved by finite element method. Conservation of mass and energy flux of the fluid between these two regions is required for composition of these two numerical methods. The numerical scheme proposed here is capable of dealing with water wave problems of different water depths with the main characters of these two methods.展开更多
To solve problems concerning wave elements and wave propagation, an effective way is the wave energy balance equation, which is widely applied in oceanography and ocean dynamics for its simple computation. The present...To solve problems concerning wave elements and wave propagation, an effective way is the wave energy balance equation, which is widely applied in oceanography and ocean dynamics for its simple computation. The present papaer advances wave energy balance equations considering lateral energy transmission and energy loss as the governing equation for the study of wave refraction-diffraction. For the mathematical model, numerical simulation is made by means of difference method, and the result is verified with two examples.展开更多
A mild-slope equation for combined refraction and diffraction of random waves in the independent time current is derived using Kirby equation(1984). In the derivation, the frequency of random waves is represented base...A mild-slope equation for combined refraction and diffraction of random waves in the independent time current is derived using Kirby equation(1984). In the derivation, the frequency of random waves is represented based on the time series concept, by a typical frequency and its deviation part. Numerical results, compared with those of laboratory experiments, demonstrate that new set of irregular mild slope equation with current is of good adaptability.展开更多
The paper had studied growth situation and disease symptoms of ancient trees in Surging Waves Pavilion.There were 14 ancient trees belonging to 10 genera of 9 families,with tree age of 120-260 years.These trees had be...The paper had studied growth situation and disease symptoms of ancient trees in Surging Waves Pavilion.There were 14 ancient trees belonging to 10 genera of 9 families,with tree age of 120-260 years.These trees had been well protected generally.There were 9 ancient trees growing well,occupying 64.29%,which were Ginkgo biloba,Cupressus funebris Endl.,Podocarpus macrophyllus,Zelkova schneideriana Hand.-Mazz,Cinnamomum camphora(L.)Presl,Buxus sinica,and Wisteria sinensis(Sims)Sweet.There were 5 ancient trees needing to be protected preferentially,occupying 35.71%,including Ligustrum lucidum,Osmanthus fragrans and Pterocarya stenoptera.The disease symptoms were trunk rot and hollow structure.Based on these symptoms,the paper had proposed protective measures for Ligustrum lucidum and Osmanthus fragrans:① enclosing eroding holes on the trunk;② clearing up eroded woodiness on the surface of trunk,disinfecting and applying anti-corrosion protectants;③ filling eroded holes of the trunk.Protective measures for Pterocarya stenoptera included:① clearing up the inner part and interior walls;② disinfecting the inside and interior walls of holes;③ applying anti-corrosion protectants.展开更多
In this study, the combined actions of waves and tidal currents in estuarine and coastal areas are considered and a 2D mathematical model for sediment transport by waves and tidal currents has been established in orth...In this study, the combined actions of waves and tidal currents in estuarine and coastal areas are considered and a 2D mathematical model for sediment transport by waves and tidal currents has been established in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates. Non-equilibrium transport equations of suspended load and bed load are used in the model. The concept of background concentration is introduced, and the formula of sediment transport capacity of tidal currents for the Oujiang River estuary is obtained. The Dou Guoren formula is employed for the sediment transport capacity of waves. Sediment transport capacity in the form of mud and the intensity of back silting are calculated by use of Luo Zaosen＇ s formula. The calculated tidal stages are in good agreement with the field data, and the calculated velocities and flow directions of 46 vertical lines for 8 cross sections are also in good agreement with the measured data. On such a basis, simulations of back silting after excavation of the waterway with a sand bar under complicated boundary conditions in the navigation channel induced by suspended load, bed load and mud by waves and tidal currents are discussed.展开更多
Water waves, wave-induced long-shore currents and movement of pollutants in waves and currents have been numerically studied based on the hyperbolic mild-slope equation, the shallow water equation , as well as the pol...Water waves, wave-induced long-shore currents and movement of pollutants in waves and currents have been numerically studied based on the hyperbolic mild-slope equation, the shallow water equation , as well as the pollutant movement equation, and the numerical results have also been validated by experimental data. It is shown that the long-shore current velocity and wave set-up increase with the increasing incident wave amplitude and slope steepness of the shore plane ; the wave set-up increases with the in- creasing incident wave period;and the pollutant morement proceeds more quiekly with the increasing incident wave amplitude and slope steepness of the shore palane. In surf zones, the long-shore currents induced by the inclined incident waves have effectively affected the pollutant movement.展开更多
Investigated is the coupled response of a tension leg platform （TLP） for random waves. Inferred are the mass matrix, coupling stiffness matrix, damping matrix in the vibration differential equation and external load...Investigated is the coupled response of a tension leg platform （TLP） for random waves. Inferred are the mass matrix, coupling stiffness matrix, damping matrix in the vibration differential equation and external load of TLP in moving coordinating system. Infinitesimal method is applied to divide columns and pontoons into small parts. Time domain motion equation is solved by Runge-Kutta integration scheme. Jonswap spectrum is simulated in the random wave, current is simulated by linear interpolation, and NPD spectrum is applied as wind spectrum. The Monte Carlo method is used to simulate random waves and fluctuated wind. Coupling dynamic response, change of tendon tension and riser tension in different sea conditions are analyzed by power spectral density （PSD）. The influence of approach angle on dynamic response of TLP and tendon tension is compared.展开更多
Model tests and numerical calculation of longshore currents and wave heights produced by irregular waves on two beaches with slopes of 1:100 and 1:40 are studied. The cross-shore distributions of longshore current vel...Model tests and numerical calculation of longshore currents and wave heights produced by irregular waves on two beaches with slopes of 1:100 and 1:40 are studied. The cross-shore distributions of longshore current velocities and wave heights are given and the influences of wave heights, wave periods, and beach slopes on longshore currents are discussed. The discussion is also made on the influences of different eddy viscosity coefficients on the numerical results of longshore current velocities.展开更多
Experimental study and theoretical analysis show that the critical value of relative wave height (H / d)b given by Goda and the critical wave steepness (H / L)b given by Michell and Miche can be adopted as the spillin...Experimental study and theoretical analysis show that the critical value of relative wave height (H / d)b given by Goda and the critical wave steepness (H / L)b given by Michell and Miche can be adopted as the spilling breaking indices of regular waves. According to the same principle, a systematic theoretical analysis and experiment of irregular wave have been done by the authors in order to solve the breaking problem of irregular waves. It is indicated that the authors' method for determining wave breaking of regular waves can also be used for irregular waves.展开更多
The experiment and numerical computations of longshore currents produced by regularwaves on the two beaches with the slopes of 1:100 and 1:40 are made. The cross-shore distributions of longshore current velocities and...The experiment and numerical computations of longshore currents produced by regularwaves on the two beaches with the slopes of 1:100 and 1:40 are made. The cross-shore distributions of longshore current velocities and wave heights are given and the influences of wave heights, wave periods and beach slopes on the longshore currents are discussed. The discussion is also made for the influences of different eddy viscosity coefficients on the numerical results of longshore current velocities.展开更多
A fully three-dimensional surface gravitycapillary short-crested wave system is studied as two progressive wave-trains of equal amplitude and frequency, which are collinear with uniform currents and doubly-periodic in...A fully three-dimensional surface gravitycapillary short-crested wave system is studied as two progressive wave-trains of equal amplitude and frequency, which are collinear with uniform currents and doubly-periodic in the horizontal plane, are propagating at an angle to each other. The first- and second-order asymptotic analytical solutions of the short-crested wave system are obtained via a perturbation expansion in a small parameter associated with the wave steepness, therefore depicting a series of typical three-dimensional wave patterns involving currents, shallow and deep water, and surface capillary waves, and comparing them with each other.展开更多
In the present research, the study of Song (2004) for random interfacial waves in two-layer fluid is extended to the case of fluids moving at different steady uniform speeds. The equations describing the random displa...In the present research, the study of Song (2004) for random interfacial waves in two-layer fluid is extended to the case of fluids moving at different steady uniform speeds. The equations describing the random displacements of the density interface and the associated velocity potentials in two-layer fluid are solved to the second order, and the wave-wave interactions of the wave components and the interactions between the waves and currents are described. As expected, the extended solutions include those obtained by Song (2004) as one special case where the steady uniform currents of the two fluids are taken as zero, and the solutions reduce to those derived by Sharma and Dean (1979) for random surface waves if the density of the upper fluid and the current of the lower fluid are both taken as zero.展开更多
Prediction of coastal sediment transport is of particularly importance for analyzing coast erosion accurately and solving the corresponding coast protection engineering problems.The present study provided a numerical ...Prediction of coastal sediment transport is of particularly importance for analyzing coast erosion accurately and solving the corresponding coast protection engineering problems.The present study provided a numerical scheme for sediment transport in coastal waves and wave-induced currents.In the scheme,the sand transport model was implemented with wave refraction-diffraction model and near-shore current model.Coastal water wave was simulated by using the parabolic mild-slope equation in which wave refraction,diffraction and breaking effects are considered.Wave-induced current was simulated by using the nonlinear shallow water equations in which wave provides radiation stresses for driving current.Then,sediment transport in waves and wave-induced currents was simulated by using the two-dimensional suspended sediment transport equations for suspended sediment and the bed-load transport equation for bed load.The numerical scheme was validated by experiment results from the Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility at the US Army Corps of Engineer Research and Development Center in Vicksburg.The numerical results showed that the present scheme is an effective tool for modeling coastal sediment transport in waves and near-shore currents.展开更多
A numerical model was used to analyze the motion response and mooring tension of a submerged fish reef system. The system included a net attached to a rigid structure suspended up from the bottom with a single, high t...A numerical model was used to analyze the motion response and mooring tension of a submerged fish reef system. The system included a net attached to a rigid structure suspended up from the bottom with a single, high tension mooring by fixed flotation. The analysis was performed by using a Morison equation type finite element model configured with truss elements. Input forcing parameters into the model consisted of both regular and irregular waves, with and without a steady current. Heave, surge and pitch dynamic calculations of the reef structure were made. Tension response results of the attached mooring line were also computed. Results were analyzed in both the time and frequency domain in which appropriate, linear transfer functions were calculated. The influence of the current was more evident in the tension and heave motion response data. This is most likely the result of the large buoyancy characteristics of the reef structure and the length of the mooting cable. Maximum mooting component tension was found to be 13.9 kN and occurred when the reef was subjected to irregular waves with a co-linear current of 1.0 m/s velocity. The results also showed that the system had little damping （in heave） with damped natural periods of 2.8 s. This combination of system characteristics promotes a possible resonating situation in typical open sea conditions with similar wave periods.展开更多
This article is aimed at the experimental study of the hydrodynamic loading induced by waves and current acting on the JZ 20-2 submarine composite pipelines. The corresponding hydrodynamic coefficients obtained in thi...This article is aimed at the experimental study of the hydrodynamic loading induced by waves and current acting on the JZ 20-2 submarine composite pipelines. The corresponding hydrodynamic coefficients obtained in this experimental study can be applied to engineering projects.展开更多
The propagation and fission process of internal solitary waves （ISWs） with amplitudes of about 170 m are simulated in the northeast of the South China Sea （NSCS） by using the generalized Korteweg-de Vries （KdV） ...The propagation and fission process of internal solitary waves （ISWs） with amplitudes of about 170 m are simulated in the northeast of the South China Sea （NSCS） by using the generalized Korteweg-de Vries （KdV） equation under continuous stratification. More attention is paid to the effects of the ebb and flood background currents on the fission process of ISWs. This kind of background current is provided by the composed results simulated in terms of monthly mean baroclinic circulation and barotropic tidal current. It is found that the obtained relation of the number of fission solitons to the water depth and stratification is roughly in accordance with the fission law derived by Djordjevic and Redekopp in 1978; however, there exists obvious difference between the effects of the ebb and flood background currents on the wave-lengths of fission solitons （defined as the distance between two neighboring peaks of ISWs）. The difference in nonlinearity coefficient a between the ebb and flood background currents is a main cause for the different wave-lengths of fission solitons.展开更多
In this paper, the water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obak6y coastal water which is located at the Mediterranean coast of Turkey were numerically studied. The numerical model is based on the parabolic ...In this paper, the water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obak6y coastal water which is located at the Mediterranean coast of Turkey were numerically studied. The numerical model is based on the parabolic mild-slope equation for coastal water waves and the nonlinear shallow water equation for the wave-induced currents. The wave transformation under the effects of shoaling, refraction, diffraction and breaking is considered, and the wave provides radiation stresses for driving currents in the model. The numerical results for the water wave-induced longshore currents were validated by the measured data to demonstrate the efficiency of the numerical model. Then the water waves and longshore currents induced by the waves from main directions were numerically simulated and analyzed based on the numerical results. The numerical results show that the movement of the longshore currents was different while the wave proDaRated to a coastal zone from different directions.展开更多
基金Science Foundation of National Education Committee of China
文摘A new numerical finite difference iteration method for refraction-diffraction of waves ia water of slowly varying current and topography is developed in this paper. And corresponding theoretical model including the dissipation term is briefly described, together with some analysis and comparison of computational results of the model with measurements in a hydraulic scale model (Berkhoff et al., 1982). An example of practical use of the method is given, showing that the present model is useful to engineering practice.
基金This work was financially supported by the Science Foundation of National Education Committee of China
文摘Two mathematical models for combined refraction-diffraction of regular and irregular waves on non-uniform current in water of slowly varying topography are presented in this paper. Model I is derived by wave theory and variational principle separately. It has two kinds of expressions including the dissipation term. Model n is based on the energy conservation equation with energy flux through the wave crest lines in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates and the wave kinematic conservation equation. The analysis and comparison and special cases of these two models are also given.
基金the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.52371289 and 51979192).
文摘A three-dimensional numerical model of sand wave dynamics,incorporating the interaction of currents and waves at various angles,has been developed using the Regional Ocean Modeling System(ROMS).This model accounts for both bedload and suspended load sediment transport under combined waves and current conditions.The investigation examines the influence of several key parameters,including the rotation angle of sand waves relative to the main current,tidal current velocity amplitude,residual current,water depth,wave height,wave period,and wave direction,on sand wave evolution.The growth rate and migration rate of sand waves decrease as their rotation angle increases.For rotation angles smaller than 15°,sand wave evolution can be effectively simulated by a vertical 2D model with an error within 10%.The numerical results demonstrate that variations in tidal current velocity amplitude or residual current affect both vertical growth and horizontal migration of sand waves.As tidal current velocity amplitude and residual current increase,the growth rate initially rises to a maximum before decreasing.The migration rate shows a consistent increase with increasing tidal current amplitude and residual current.Under combined waves and current,both growth and migration rates decrease as water depth increases.With increasing wave height and period,the growth rate and migration rate initially rise to maximum values before declining,while showing a consistent increase with wave height and period.The change rate of sand waves reaches its maximum when wave propagation aligns parallel to tidal currents,and reaches its minimum when wave propagation is perpendicular to the currents.This phenomenon can be explained by the fluctuation of total bed shear stress relative to the angle of interaction between waves and current.
文摘-Wave refraction-diffraction due to a large ocean structure and topography in the presence of a 'current are studied numerically. The mathematical model is the mild-slope equation developed by Kirby (1984). This equation is solved using a finite and boundary element method. The physical domain is devid-ed into two regions: a slowly varying topography region and a constant water depth region. For waves propagating in the constant water depth region, without current interfering, the mild- slope equation is then reduced to the Helmholtz equation which is solved by boundary element method. In varying topography region, this equation will be solved by finite element method. Conservation of mass and energy flux of the fluid between these two regions is required for composition of these two numerical methods. The numerical scheme proposed here is capable of dealing with water wave problems of different water depths with the main characters of these two methods.
文摘To solve problems concerning wave elements and wave propagation, an effective way is the wave energy balance equation, which is widely applied in oceanography and ocean dynamics for its simple computation. The present papaer advances wave energy balance equations considering lateral energy transmission and energy loss as the governing equation for the study of wave refraction-diffraction. For the mathematical model, numerical simulation is made by means of difference method, and the result is verified with two examples.
文摘A mild-slope equation for combined refraction and diffraction of random waves in the independent time current is derived using Kirby equation(1984). In the derivation, the frequency of random waves is represented based on the time series concept, by a typical frequency and its deviation part. Numerical results, compared with those of laboratory experiments, demonstrate that new set of irregular mild slope equation with current is of good adaptability.
基金Supported by"Study on Protection and Monitoring Warning Standard of Ancient and Rare Trees in Suzhou Classical Gardens"which is the Scientific and Technological Development Planning Project of Science and Technology Bureau of Suzhou City in2008(SS08055)~~
文摘The paper had studied growth situation and disease symptoms of ancient trees in Surging Waves Pavilion.There were 14 ancient trees belonging to 10 genera of 9 families,with tree age of 120-260 years.These trees had been well protected generally.There were 9 ancient trees growing well,occupying 64.29%,which were Ginkgo biloba,Cupressus funebris Endl.,Podocarpus macrophyllus,Zelkova schneideriana Hand.-Mazz,Cinnamomum camphora(L.)Presl,Buxus sinica,and Wisteria sinensis(Sims)Sweet.There were 5 ancient trees needing to be protected preferentially,occupying 35.71%,including Ligustrum lucidum,Osmanthus fragrans and Pterocarya stenoptera.The disease symptoms were trunk rot and hollow structure.Based on these symptoms,the paper had proposed protective measures for Ligustrum lucidum and Osmanthus fragrans:① enclosing eroding holes on the trunk;② clearing up eroded woodiness on the surface of trunk,disinfecting and applying anti-corrosion protectants;③ filling eroded holes of the trunk.Protective measures for Pterocarya stenoptera included:① clearing up the inner part and interior walls;② disinfecting the inside and interior walls of holes;③ applying anti-corrosion protectants.
基金This work was supported bythe National Basic Research Program(973) of China (Grant No.2003CB415206) andthe National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No.50379027 and No.50479004)
文摘In this study, the combined actions of waves and tidal currents in estuarine and coastal areas are considered and a 2D mathematical model for sediment transport by waves and tidal currents has been established in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates. Non-equilibrium transport equations of suspended load and bed load are used in the model. The concept of background concentration is introduced, and the formula of sediment transport capacity of tidal currents for the Oujiang River estuary is obtained. The Dou Guoren formula is employed for the sediment transport capacity of waves. Sediment transport capacity in the form of mud and the intensity of back silting are calculated by use of Luo Zaosen＇ s formula. The calculated tidal stages are in good agreement with the field data, and the calculated velocities and flow directions of 46 vertical lines for 8 cross sections are also in good agreement with the measured data. On such a basis, simulations of back silting after excavation of the waterway with a sand bar under complicated boundary conditions in the navigation channel induced by suspended load, bed load and mud by waves and tidal currents are discussed.
基金The National Basic Research ("973") Program of China under contract No.2005CB724202the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos.50709004 and 50779006.
文摘Water waves, wave-induced long-shore currents and movement of pollutants in waves and currents have been numerically studied based on the hyperbolic mild-slope equation, the shallow water equation , as well as the pollutant movement equation, and the numerical results have also been validated by experimental data. It is shown that the long-shore current velocity and wave set-up increase with the increasing incident wave amplitude and slope steepness of the shore plane ; the wave set-up increases with the in- creasing incident wave period;and the pollutant morement proceeds more quiekly with the increasing incident wave amplitude and slope steepness of the shore palane. In surf zones, the long-shore currents induced by the inclined incident waves have effectively affected the pollutant movement.
文摘Investigated is the coupled response of a tension leg platform （TLP） for random waves. Inferred are the mass matrix, coupling stiffness matrix, damping matrix in the vibration differential equation and external load of TLP in moving coordinating system. Infinitesimal method is applied to divide columns and pontoons into small parts. Time domain motion equation is solved by Runge-Kutta integration scheme. Jonswap spectrum is simulated in the random wave, current is simulated by linear interpolation, and NPD spectrum is applied as wind spectrum. The Monte Carlo method is used to simulate random waves and fluctuated wind. Coupling dynamic response, change of tendon tension and riser tension in different sea conditions are analyzed by power spectral density （PSD）. The influence of approach angle on dynamic response of TLP and tendon tension is compared.
文摘Model tests and numerical calculation of longshore currents and wave heights produced by irregular waves on two beaches with slopes of 1:100 and 1:40 are studied. The cross-shore distributions of longshore current velocities and wave heights are given and the influences of wave heights, wave periods, and beach slopes on longshore currents are discussed. The discussion is also made on the influences of different eddy viscosity coefficients on the numerical results of longshore current velocities.
文摘Experimental study and theoretical analysis show that the critical value of relative wave height (H / d)b given by Goda and the critical wave steepness (H / L)b given by Michell and Miche can be adopted as the spilling breaking indices of regular waves. According to the same principle, a systematic theoretical analysis and experiment of irregular wave have been done by the authors in order to solve the breaking problem of irregular waves. It is indicated that the authors' method for determining wave breaking of regular waves can also be used for irregular waves.
基金This study was supported by the National Natural Science Foundation,of China under contract Nos 59839330 and 59679005.
文摘The experiment and numerical computations of longshore currents produced by regularwaves on the two beaches with the slopes of 1:100 and 1:40 are made. The cross-shore distributions of longshore current velocities and wave heights are given and the influences of wave heights, wave periods and beach slopes on the longshore currents are discussed. The discussion is also made for the influences of different eddy viscosity coefficients on the numerical results of longshore current velocities.
基金The project supported by the Foundation for the Author of National Excellent Doctoral Dissertation of China (200428)the National Natural Science Foundation of China (10272072and 50424913)the Shanghai Natural Science Foundation(05ZR14048)
文摘A fully three-dimensional surface gravitycapillary short-crested wave system is studied as two progressive wave-trains of equal amplitude and frequency, which are collinear with uniform currents and doubly-periodic in the horizontal plane, are propagating at an angle to each other. The first- and second-order asymptotic analytical solutions of the short-crested wave system are obtained via a perturbation expansion in a small parameter associated with the wave steepness, therefore depicting a series of typical three-dimensional wave patterns involving currents, shallow and deep water, and surface capillary waves, and comparing them with each other.
文摘In the present research, the study of Song (2004) for random interfacial waves in two-layer fluid is extended to the case of fluids moving at different steady uniform speeds. The equations describing the random displacements of the density interface and the associated velocity potentials in two-layer fluid are solved to the second order, and the wave-wave interactions of the wave components and the interactions between the waves and currents are described. As expected, the extended solutions include those obtained by Song (2004) as one special case where the steady uniform currents of the two fluids are taken as zero, and the solutions reduce to those derived by Sharma and Dean (1979) for random surface waves if the density of the upper fluid and the current of the lower fluid are both taken as zero.
基金The National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos 51579036 and 51579030the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities of China under contract No.DUT14YQ10
文摘Prediction of coastal sediment transport is of particularly importance for analyzing coast erosion accurately and solving the corresponding coast protection engineering problems.The present study provided a numerical scheme for sediment transport in coastal waves and wave-induced currents.In the scheme,the sand transport model was implemented with wave refraction-diffraction model and near-shore current model.Coastal water wave was simulated by using the parabolic mild-slope equation in which wave refraction,diffraction and breaking effects are considered.Wave-induced current was simulated by using the nonlinear shallow water equations in which wave provides radiation stresses for driving current.Then,sediment transport in waves and wave-induced currents was simulated by using the two-dimensional suspended sediment transport equations for suspended sediment and the bed-load transport equation for bed load.The numerical scheme was validated by experiment results from the Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility at the US Army Corps of Engineer Research and Development Center in Vicksburg.The numerical results showed that the present scheme is an effective tool for modeling coastal sediment transport in waves and near-shore currents.
基金supported by the Korea Research Foundation Grant funded by the Korean Government(MOEHRD)(KRF-2007-313-F00073)Technology Development Program for Food,Agriculture,Forestry and Fisheries,Republic of Korea
文摘A numerical model was used to analyze the motion response and mooring tension of a submerged fish reef system. The system included a net attached to a rigid structure suspended up from the bottom with a single, high tension mooring by fixed flotation. The analysis was performed by using a Morison equation type finite element model configured with truss elements. Input forcing parameters into the model consisted of both regular and irregular waves, with and without a steady current. Heave, surge and pitch dynamic calculations of the reef structure were made. Tension response results of the attached mooring line were also computed. Results were analyzed in both the time and frequency domain in which appropriate, linear transfer functions were calculated. The influence of the current was more evident in the tension and heave motion response data. This is most likely the result of the large buoyancy characteristics of the reef structure and the length of the mooting cable. Maximum mooting component tension was found to be 13.9 kN and occurred when the reef was subjected to irregular waves with a co-linear current of 1.0 m/s velocity. The results also showed that the system had little damping （in heave） with damped natural periods of 2.8 s. This combination of system characteristics promotes a possible resonating situation in typical open sea conditions with similar wave periods.
文摘This article is aimed at the experimental study of the hydrodynamic loading induced by waves and current acting on the JZ 20-2 submarine composite pipelines. The corresponding hydrodynamic coefficients obtained in this experimental study can be applied to engineering projects.
基金supported by the Key Program of National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract No.41030855
文摘The propagation and fission process of internal solitary waves （ISWs） with amplitudes of about 170 m are simulated in the northeast of the South China Sea （NSCS） by using the generalized Korteweg-de Vries （KdV） equation under continuous stratification. More attention is paid to the effects of the ebb and flood background currents on the fission process of ISWs. This kind of background current is provided by the composed results simulated in terms of monthly mean baroclinic circulation and barotropic tidal current. It is found that the obtained relation of the number of fission solitons to the water depth and stratification is roughly in accordance with the fission law derived by Djordjevic and Redekopp in 1978; however, there exists obvious difference between the effects of the ebb and flood background currents on the wave-lengths of fission solitons （defined as the distance between two neighboring peaks of ISWs）. The difference in nonlinearity coefficient a between the ebb and flood background currents is a main cause for the different wave-lengths of fission solitons.
基金The National Basic Research Program of China under contract No.2013CB430403the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract No.51179025+1 种基金the Open Foundation of State Key Laboratory of Hydrology-Water Resources and Hydraulic Engineering under contract No.2013491511the Open Foundation of State Key Laboratory of Ocean Engineering under contract No.1305
文摘In this paper, the water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obak6y coastal water which is located at the Mediterranean coast of Turkey were numerically studied. The numerical model is based on the parabolic mild-slope equation for coastal water waves and the nonlinear shallow water equation for the wave-induced currents. The wave transformation under the effects of shoaling, refraction, diffraction and breaking is considered, and the wave provides radiation stresses for driving currents in the model. The numerical results for the water wave-induced longshore currents were validated by the measured data to demonstrate the efficiency of the numerical model. Then the water waves and longshore currents induced by the waves from main directions were numerically simulated and analyzed based on the numerical results. The numerical results show that the movement of the longshore currents was different while the wave proDaRated to a coastal zone from different directions.
