Based on the studies of the Songliao Basin characterized by Cretaceous down-warping, of the Jurassic compressional flexural Junggar basin and of the Bohai Bay Basin characterized by Paleogene rifting, the multiple-gra...Based on the studies of the Songliao Basin characterized by Cretaceous down-warping, of the Jurassic compressional flexural Junggar basin and of the Bohai Bay Basin characterized by Paleogene rifting, the multiple-grades slope break has developed in lacustrine basins of different origins. Their genetic types can be divided into tectonic slope break, depositional slope break and erodent slope break. The dominant agent of the slope break is tectogenesis, and the scale of slope breaks relates with the size of tectogenesis. The results of the study show that control of mutual grades slope breaks on atectonic traps mainly represent: 1) Atectonic traps develop close to mutual grades slope breaks, with beads-shaped distribution along the slope breaks. 2) In the longitudinal direction, the development of atectonic traps is characterized by the inheritance. 3) Different slope breaks and their different geographical positions can lead to different development types of atectonic traps. 4) A slope break can form different kinds of atectonic traps because of its great lateral variation. 5) The existence of mutual-grade slope breaks leads to different responses of erosion and deposition at different geographical positions in the basin. The oil source bed, reservoir and cap rock combination of atectonic traps is fine. 6) The oil-bearing condition of atectonic traps controlled by slope breaks is very favorable.展开更多
The 'surface roller' to simulate wave energy dissipation of wave breaking is introduced into the random wave model based on approximate parabolic mild slope equation in this paper to simulate the random wave t...The 'surface roller' to simulate wave energy dissipation of wave breaking is introduced into the random wave model based on approximate parabolic mild slope equation in this paper to simulate the random wave transportation in chiding diffraction, refraction and breaking in nearshore areas. The roller breaking random wave higher-order approximate parabolic equation model has been verified by the existing experimental data for a plane slope beach and a circular shoal, and the numerical results of random wave breaking model agree with the experimental data very well, This model can be applied to calculate random wave propagation from deep to shallow water in large areas near the shore over natural topography.展开更多
In order to reveal the relationship between the penecontemporaneous karstification and sedimentary microtopography in sequence stratigraphy,the sequence stratigraphic framework of Lianglitage formation in Upper Ordovi...In order to reveal the relationship between the penecontemporaneous karstification and sedimentary microtopography in sequence stratigraphy,the sequence stratigraphic framework of Lianglitage formation in Upper Ordovician is studied according to the well drilling,logging,geophysical data,detailed observations of core and the paleontology.The Lianglitage formation belongs to the sequence Ⅳ of Ordovician.The second member of Lianglitage formation is prograde sedimentation in highstand systems tract,and is favorable for developing reef flat.The development scale and thickness of reef flat are controlled by the variation of secondary sea level.The types and characteristics of karst in the highstand systems tract show that the late highstand systems tract is dissolved and cemented by the meteoric fresh water and mixed water.Penecontemporaneous karstification is developed at the top of parasequence and high place of geomorphology.Atmospheric diagenetic lens is formed.The developing regulations and controlling factors of penecontemporaneous karstification can provide new clues to the prediction and exploration of favorable reservoir in this area.展开更多
Regular wave deformation and breaking on very gentle slopes is calculated by Mixed-Eulerian-Lagrangian procedure. The velocity potentials and their normal derivatives on the boundary are calculated through the mixed 0...Regular wave deformation and breaking on very gentle slopes is calculated by Mixed-Eulerian-Lagrangian procedure. The velocity potentials and their normal derivatives on the boundary are calculated through the mixed 0-1 boundary element method. The wave elevation and the potentials of Lime-stepping integration are determined by the 2nd-order Taylor expansion at the nodes of free surface boundary elements. During calculation the x-coordinates of the free surface element nodes are supposed to remain unchanged, i.e. the partial derivatives of wave elevation and potentials with respect to x are considered as zero. The numerical results of asymmetric parameters of breaking waves are verified by experimental study. It is shown that when the wave asymmetry is weak, the maximum horizontal velocity of water particales occurs at the wave peak and, the average ratio of this maximum velocity to wave celerity is 0.96. However, when the wave asymmetry is strong, the maximum horizontal velocity of water particles occurs just before the wave crest, and the average ratio of the maximum velocity to wave celerity is about 0.98. The numerical results also show that the asymmetry of wave profiles affects the value of the wave breaking index (H/d) (b), that is, when the asymmetric characteristics are weak, the value of wave breaking index coincides with that given by Goda; on the contrary, when the asymmetry of wave profiles is notable, the value of wave breaking index is close to Nelson's result. The experimental study gives the same conclusions.展开更多
The characteristics of slope break during depression stage in the Songliao Basin of NE China are analyzed. It is indicated that double flexure slope breaks extend in a circle across the basin.One is nominated the inne...The characteristics of slope break during depression stage in the Songliao Basin of NE China are analyzed. It is indicated that double flexure slope breaks extend in a circle across the basin.One is nominated the inner slope break,and the other is the external slope break. Under different regional stress field,the control展开更多
The propagation of long-waves, such as tidal waves from the coastal oceam into shallow estuarine waters,often produces asymmetries of veolcity and water level in time series resulting in long-wave breaking.Tian (1994)...The propagation of long-waves, such as tidal waves from the coastal oceam into shallow estuarine waters,often produces asymmetries of veolcity and water level in time series resulting in long-wave breaking.Tian (1994) studied the mechanism of long-wave breaking in an infinite channel with constant depth,considering nth power bottom friction. This study is for the case of a half infinite channel with bottomslope, taking linear bottom friction into account. The wave breaking time and wave breaking location areestimated and the criteria for long-wave breaking in this particular case are obtained. The results obtainedcan also be e asily applied to the case considering wind stress.展开更多
Enrichment of hydrocarbon reservoir relates to the slope break types in continental basin(sag)in China. Division and analysis of genetic types of slope break will help to study the enrichment regularity of hydrocarbon...Enrichment of hydrocarbon reservoir relates to the slope break types in continental basin(sag)in China. Division and analysis of genetic types of slope break will help to study the enrichment regularity of hydrocarbon reservoir and is conducive to the guiding of future development in exploration and enhancing prediction accuracy.This paper,guided by the theory of sequence stratigraphy and using high-resolution three-dimensional seismic data,drilling and other information,takes into account the characteristics展开更多
A two-dimensional （2D） dam-break flow numerical model was developed based on the finite-volume total variation diminishing （TVD） and monotone upstream-centered scheme for conservation laws （MUSCL）-Hancock scheme...A two-dimensional （2D） dam-break flow numerical model was developed based on the finite-volume total variation diminishing （TVD） and monotone upstream-centered scheme for conservation laws （MUSCL）-Hancock scheme, which has second-order accuracy in both time and space. A Harten-Lax-van Leer-contact （HLLC） approximate Riemann solver was used to evaluate fluxes. The TVD MUSCL-Hancock numerical scheme utilizes slope limiters, such as the minmod, double minmod, superbee, van Albada, and van Leer limiters, to prevent spurious oscillations and maintain monotonicity near discontinuities. A comparative study of the impact of various slope limiters on the accuracy of the numerical flow model was conducted with several dam-break examples including wet and dry bed cases. The numerical results of the superbee and double minmod limiters agree better with the theoretical solution and have higher accuracy than other limiters in one-dimensional （1D） space. The ratio of the downstream water depth to the upstream water depth was used to select the proper slope limiter. For the 2D numerical model, the superbee limiter should not be used, owing to significant numerical dispersion.展开更多
Based on theoretical analysis, numerical calculation, and experimental study. this paper discusses breaker indices of irregular waves, transformation of wave spectrum, characteristics and computation of breaking waves...Based on theoretical analysis, numerical calculation, and experimental study. this paper discusses breaker indices of irregular waves, transformation of wave spectrum, characteristics and computation of breaking waves, as well as the critical beach slope under which waves will not break. Computed results are in good agreement with laboratory physical model test data and ocean wave field measurements.展开更多
Nelson pointed out that the wave breaking criterion( H/d)(b) for gentle slopes( i < 1/100), in which H is the wave height and d is the water depth at the breaking point, is smaller than that for beach slopes of i &...Nelson pointed out that the wave breaking criterion( H/d)(b) for gentle slopes( i < 1/100), in which H is the wave height and d is the water depth at the breaking point, is smaller than that for beach slopes of i > 1/100, i. e., the value oft H/d)(b) for gentle slopes may be smaller than 0.6. Goda indicated that the wave breaking criterion given by himself is a result based on theoretical study, so it should be also correct and can be used for gentle beaches, i.e., the value of(H/d)(b) for gentle slopes may be still larger than 0.7. By use of high order nonlinear wave theory, this problem is analyzed in this study and the reason why there is a large difference between different studies is explained. Moreover, the bottom energy loss during wave propagation is considered and the critical slope for the absence of wave breaking is also analyzed.展开更多
Based on 2D and 3D seismic data and well logging data,this paper studies the distribution of well-seismic stratigraphic filling and shoal controlled reservoirs of Upper Cambrian Xixiangchi Formation in the south slope...Based on 2D and 3D seismic data and well logging data,this paper studies the distribution of well-seismic stratigraphic filling and shoal controlled reservoirs of Upper Cambrian Xixiangchi Formation in the south slope of Leshan-Longnüsi paleouplift in the Sichuan Basin,to reveal the genetic relationship between stratigraphic filling,paleogeomorphology and large-scale grain shoal.(1)The Xixiangchi Formation in the study area is overlapped and filled gradually to the Leshan-Longnüsi paleouplift,but gets thin sharply due to truncation only near the denudation pinch-out line of the paleouplift.Two overlap slope break belts and one erosion slope break belt are identified,and the Xixiangchi Formation is divided into 4 members from bottom to top.(2)The filling pattern of the overlapping at the base and erosion at the top indicates that the thickness of Xixiangchi Formation can reflect the pre-depositional paleogeomorphology,and reveals that the studied area has a monoclinal geomorphic feature of plunging to southeast and being controlled by multistage slope break belts.(3)The large-scale grain shoals and shoal controlled reservoirs are developed longitudinally in the third and fourth members of the Xixiangchi Formation,and laterally in the vicinity of the multistage overlap slope break belts.(4)Overlap slope break belts are closely related to northwest trending reverse faults.The western margin of the South China Plate converging with the Qiangtang-Himalaya massif in the middle-late Cambrian resulted in the rapid uplift of the northwestern margin of the Yangtze Plate and expanding toward southeast,leaving gradually plunging multistage slope breaks and large-scale northeast grain shoal reservoir belts.Considering oil and gas test results,it is predicted that the favorable exploration zone of the grain shoal controlled reservoirs covers an area of 3340 km^(2).展开更多
A new form of hyperbolic mild slope equations is derived with the inclusion of the amphtude dispersion of nonlinear waves. The effects of including the amplitude dispersion effect on the wave propagation are discussed...A new form of hyperbolic mild slope equations is derived with the inclusion of the amphtude dispersion of nonlinear waves. The effects of including the amplitude dispersion effect on the wave propagation are discussed. Wave breaking mechanism is incorporated into the present model to apply the new equations to surf zone. The equations are solved nu- merically for regular wave propagation over a shoal and in surf zone, and a comparison is made against measurements. It is found that the inclusion of the amplitude dispersion can also improve model＇ s performance on prediction of wave heights around breaking point for the wave motions in surf zone.展开更多
There lies a close relationship between the seabed destruction and the distribution of pore water pressure under the action of breaking wave. The experiments were carried out in a wave flume with a 1：30 sloping sandy...There lies a close relationship between the seabed destruction and the distribution of pore water pressure under the action of breaking wave. The experiments were carried out in a wave flume with a 1：30 sloping sandy seabed to study regular breaking wave induced pore water pressure. A wide range of measurements from the regular wave runs were reported, including time series of wave heights, pore pressures. The video records were analysed to measure the time development of the seabed form and the characteristics of the orbital motion of the sand in the wave breaking region. The pore water pressure in the breaker zone showed the time variation depending on the wave phases including wave breaking and bore propagation. The time-averaged pore water pressure was higher near the seabed surface. The peak values of pore water pressure increase significantly at the breaking point. The direction of pore water pressure difference forces in the breaker zone is of fundamental importance for a correct description of the sediment dynamics. The upwards- directed pressure differences may increase sand transport by reducing the effective weight of the sediment, thereby increasing the bed form evolution. The seabed configuration changed greatly at the wave breaking zone and a sand bar was generated remarkably. The amplitude of the pore water pressure changed with the seabed surface. The results are to improve the understanding of sand transport mechanisms and seabed responses due to breaking regular waves over a sloping sandy bed.展开更多
This paper is a sequel to Tian’s (1994) preceding paper in which the blow-up theory was sug gested for finding an analytical (as opposed to a numerical) description of long-wave breaking. The pre sent long-wave break...This paper is a sequel to Tian’s (1994) preceding paper in which the blow-up theory was sug gested for finding an analytical (as opposed to a numerical) description of long-wave breaking. The pre sent long-wave breaking numerical results agree quite well with the author’s previous analytical and theo retical results.展开更多
In the present paper, by introducing the effective wave elevation, we transform the extended elliptic mild-slope equation with bottom friction, wave breaking and steep or rapidly varying bottom topography to the simpl...In the present paper, by introducing the effective wave elevation, we transform the extended elliptic mild-slope equation with bottom friction, wave breaking and steep or rapidly varying bottom topography to the simplest time-dependent hyperbolic equation. Based on this equation and the empirical nonlinear amplitude dispersion relation proposed by Li et al. （2003）, the numerical scheme is established. Error analysis by Taylor expansion method shows that the numerical stability of the present model succeeds the merits in Song et al. （2007）＇s model because of the introduced dissipation terms. For the purpose of verifying its performance on wave nonlinearity, rapidly varying topography and wave breaking, the present model is applied to study： （1） wave refraction and diffraction over a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope （Berkhoff et al., 1982）; （2） Bragg reflection of monochromatic waves from the sinusoidal ripples （Davies and Heathershaw, 1985）; （3） wave transformation near a shore attached breakwater （Watanabe and Maruyama, 1986）. Comparisons of the numerical solutions with the experimental or theoretical ones or with those of other models （REF/DIF model and FUNWAVE model） show good results, which indicate that the present model is capable of giving favorably predictions of wave refraction, diffraction, reflection, shoaling, bottom friction, breaking energy dissipation and weak nonlinearity in the near shore zone.展开更多
文摘Based on the studies of the Songliao Basin characterized by Cretaceous down-warping, of the Jurassic compressional flexural Junggar basin and of the Bohai Bay Basin characterized by Paleogene rifting, the multiple-grades slope break has developed in lacustrine basins of different origins. Their genetic types can be divided into tectonic slope break, depositional slope break and erodent slope break. The dominant agent of the slope break is tectogenesis, and the scale of slope breaks relates with the size of tectogenesis. The results of the study show that control of mutual grades slope breaks on atectonic traps mainly represent: 1) Atectonic traps develop close to mutual grades slope breaks, with beads-shaped distribution along the slope breaks. 2) In the longitudinal direction, the development of atectonic traps is characterized by the inheritance. 3) Different slope breaks and their different geographical positions can lead to different development types of atectonic traps. 4) A slope break can form different kinds of atectonic traps because of its great lateral variation. 5) The existence of mutual-grade slope breaks leads to different responses of erosion and deposition at different geographical positions in the basin. The oil source bed, reservoir and cap rock combination of atectonic traps is fine. 6) The oil-bearing condition of atectonic traps controlled by slope breaks is very favorable.
基金This work was financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.59839330 and No.19772031)
文摘The 'surface roller' to simulate wave energy dissipation of wave breaking is introduced into the random wave model based on approximate parabolic mild slope equation in this paper to simulate the random wave transportation in chiding diffraction, refraction and breaking in nearshore areas. The roller breaking random wave higher-order approximate parabolic equation model has been verified by the existing experimental data for a plane slope beach and a circular shoal, and the numerical results of random wave breaking model agree with the experimental data very well, This model can be applied to calculate random wave propagation from deep to shallow water in large areas near the shore over natural topography.
基金Project(2008ZX05004-004)supported by the State Key Scientific Research Programs,ChinaProject(SZD0414)supported by the Sichuan Province Key Discipline Construction Project,ChinaProject(KZCX2-YW-Q05-01)supported by the Chinese Academy of Sciences Innovation Engineering Directional Project
文摘In order to reveal the relationship between the penecontemporaneous karstification and sedimentary microtopography in sequence stratigraphy,the sequence stratigraphic framework of Lianglitage formation in Upper Ordovician is studied according to the well drilling,logging,geophysical data,detailed observations of core and the paleontology.The Lianglitage formation belongs to the sequence Ⅳ of Ordovician.The second member of Lianglitage formation is prograde sedimentation in highstand systems tract,and is favorable for developing reef flat.The development scale and thickness of reef flat are controlled by the variation of secondary sea level.The types and characteristics of karst in the highstand systems tract show that the late highstand systems tract is dissolved and cemented by the meteoric fresh water and mixed water.Penecontemporaneous karstification is developed at the top of parasequence and high place of geomorphology.Atmospheric diagenetic lens is formed.The developing regulations and controlling factors of penecontemporaneous karstification can provide new clues to the prediction and exploration of favorable reservoir in this area.
基金This project was supported financially by National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.49876026)
文摘Regular wave deformation and breaking on very gentle slopes is calculated by Mixed-Eulerian-Lagrangian procedure. The velocity potentials and their normal derivatives on the boundary are calculated through the mixed 0-1 boundary element method. The wave elevation and the potentials of Lime-stepping integration are determined by the 2nd-order Taylor expansion at the nodes of free surface boundary elements. During calculation the x-coordinates of the free surface element nodes are supposed to remain unchanged, i.e. the partial derivatives of wave elevation and potentials with respect to x are considered as zero. The numerical results of asymmetric parameters of breaking waves are verified by experimental study. It is shown that when the wave asymmetry is weak, the maximum horizontal velocity of water particales occurs at the wave peak and, the average ratio of this maximum velocity to wave celerity is 0.96. However, when the wave asymmetry is strong, the maximum horizontal velocity of water particles occurs just before the wave crest, and the average ratio of the maximum velocity to wave celerity is about 0.98. The numerical results also show that the asymmetry of wave profiles affects the value of the wave breaking index (H/d) (b), that is, when the asymmetric characteristics are weak, the value of wave breaking index coincides with that given by Goda; on the contrary, when the asymmetry of wave profiles is notable, the value of wave breaking index is close to Nelson's result. The experimental study gives the same conclusions.
文摘The characteristics of slope break during depression stage in the Songliao Basin of NE China are analyzed. It is indicated that double flexure slope breaks extend in a circle across the basin.One is nominated the inner slope break,and the other is the external slope break. Under different regional stress field,the control
文摘The propagation of long-waves, such as tidal waves from the coastal oceam into shallow estuarine waters,often produces asymmetries of veolcity and water level in time series resulting in long-wave breaking.Tian (1994) studied the mechanism of long-wave breaking in an infinite channel with constant depth,considering nth power bottom friction. This study is for the case of a half infinite channel with bottomslope, taking linear bottom friction into account. The wave breaking time and wave breaking location areestimated and the criteria for long-wave breaking in this particular case are obtained. The results obtainedcan also be e asily applied to the case considering wind stress.
文摘Enrichment of hydrocarbon reservoir relates to the slope break types in continental basin(sag)in China. Division and analysis of genetic types of slope break will help to study the enrichment regularity of hydrocarbon reservoir and is conducive to the guiding of future development in exploration and enhancing prediction accuracy.This paper,guided by the theory of sequence stratigraphy and using high-resolution three-dimensional seismic data,drilling and other information,takes into account the characteristics
基金supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grants No.51679170,51379157,and 51439007)
文摘A two-dimensional （2D） dam-break flow numerical model was developed based on the finite-volume total variation diminishing （TVD） and monotone upstream-centered scheme for conservation laws （MUSCL）-Hancock scheme, which has second-order accuracy in both time and space. A Harten-Lax-van Leer-contact （HLLC） approximate Riemann solver was used to evaluate fluxes. The TVD MUSCL-Hancock numerical scheme utilizes slope limiters, such as the minmod, double minmod, superbee, van Albada, and van Leer limiters, to prevent spurious oscillations and maintain monotonicity near discontinuities. A comparative study of the impact of various slope limiters on the accuracy of the numerical flow model was conducted with several dam-break examples including wet and dry bed cases. The numerical results of the superbee and double minmod limiters agree better with the theoretical solution and have higher accuracy than other limiters in one-dimensional （1D） space. The ratio of the downstream water depth to the upstream water depth was used to select the proper slope limiter. For the 2D numerical model, the superbee limiter should not be used, owing to significant numerical dispersion.
基金This project was supported financially by National Natural Science Foundation of China(No.49876026)Research Foundation for the Development of Engineering Technical Code of the Ministry of Communications
文摘Based on theoretical analysis, numerical calculation, and experimental study. this paper discusses breaker indices of irregular waves, transformation of wave spectrum, characteristics and computation of breaking waves, as well as the critical beach slope under which waves will not break. Computed results are in good agreement with laboratory physical model test data and ocean wave field measurements.
基金National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.49876026)Foundation for Development of Engineering Technical Code of the Ministry of Communications of China
文摘Nelson pointed out that the wave breaking criterion( H/d)(b) for gentle slopes( i < 1/100), in which H is the wave height and d is the water depth at the breaking point, is smaller than that for beach slopes of i > 1/100, i. e., the value oft H/d)(b) for gentle slopes may be smaller than 0.6. Goda indicated that the wave breaking criterion given by himself is a result based on theoretical study, so it should be also correct and can be used for gentle beaches, i.e., the value of(H/d)(b) for gentle slopes may be still larger than 0.7. By use of high order nonlinear wave theory, this problem is analyzed in this study and the reason why there is a large difference between different studies is explained. Moreover, the bottom energy loss during wave propagation is considered and the critical slope for the absence of wave breaking is also analyzed.
基金Supported by the Cooperation Project of China National Natural Science Foundation and Petro China(U23B20154)Science and Technology Cooperation Project of Petro China and Southwest Petroleum University(2020CX010000)。
文摘Based on 2D and 3D seismic data and well logging data,this paper studies the distribution of well-seismic stratigraphic filling and shoal controlled reservoirs of Upper Cambrian Xixiangchi Formation in the south slope of Leshan-Longnüsi paleouplift in the Sichuan Basin,to reveal the genetic relationship between stratigraphic filling,paleogeomorphology and large-scale grain shoal.(1)The Xixiangchi Formation in the study area is overlapped and filled gradually to the Leshan-Longnüsi paleouplift,but gets thin sharply due to truncation only near the denudation pinch-out line of the paleouplift.Two overlap slope break belts and one erosion slope break belt are identified,and the Xixiangchi Formation is divided into 4 members from bottom to top.(2)The filling pattern of the overlapping at the base and erosion at the top indicates that the thickness of Xixiangchi Formation can reflect the pre-depositional paleogeomorphology,and reveals that the studied area has a monoclinal geomorphic feature of plunging to southeast and being controlled by multistage slope break belts.(3)The large-scale grain shoals and shoal controlled reservoirs are developed longitudinally in the third and fourth members of the Xixiangchi Formation,and laterally in the vicinity of the multistage overlap slope break belts.(4)Overlap slope break belts are closely related to northwest trending reverse faults.The western margin of the South China Plate converging with the Qiangtang-Himalaya massif in the middle-late Cambrian resulted in the rapid uplift of the northwestern margin of the Yangtze Plate and expanding toward southeast,leaving gradually plunging multistage slope breaks and large-scale northeast grain shoal reservoir belts.Considering oil and gas test results,it is predicted that the favorable exploration zone of the grain shoal controlled reservoirs covers an area of 3340 km^(2).
基金the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant Nos .50479053 and10672034)the Programfor Changjiang Scholars and Innovative Research Teamin Universitythe foundation for doctoral degree education of the Education Ministry of China
文摘A new form of hyperbolic mild slope equations is derived with the inclusion of the amphtude dispersion of nonlinear waves. The effects of including the amplitude dispersion effect on the wave propagation are discussed. Wave breaking mechanism is incorporated into the present model to apply the new equations to surf zone. The equations are solved nu- merically for regular wave propagation over a shoal and in surf zone, and a comparison is made against measurements. It is found that the inclusion of the amplitude dispersion can also improve model＇ s performance on prediction of wave heights around breaking point for the wave motions in surf zone.
基金supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant Nos. 50909009,50979008,and41176072)the Open Foundation of the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering,Dalian University of Technology (Grant No. LP1004)
文摘There lies a close relationship between the seabed destruction and the distribution of pore water pressure under the action of breaking wave. The experiments were carried out in a wave flume with a 1：30 sloping sandy seabed to study regular breaking wave induced pore water pressure. A wide range of measurements from the regular wave runs were reported, including time series of wave heights, pore pressures. The video records were analysed to measure the time development of the seabed form and the characteristics of the orbital motion of the sand in the wave breaking region. The pore water pressure in the breaker zone showed the time variation depending on the wave phases including wave breaking and bore propagation. The time-averaged pore water pressure was higher near the seabed surface. The peak values of pore water pressure increase significantly at the breaking point. The direction of pore water pressure difference forces in the breaker zone is of fundamental importance for a correct description of the sediment dynamics. The upwards- directed pressure differences may increase sand transport by reducing the effective weight of the sediment, thereby increasing the bed form evolution. The seabed configuration changed greatly at the wave breaking zone and a sand bar was generated remarkably. The amplitude of the pore water pressure changed with the seabed surface. The results are to improve the understanding of sand transport mechanisms and seabed responses due to breaking regular waves over a sloping sandy bed.
文摘This paper is a sequel to Tian’s (1994) preceding paper in which the blow-up theory was sug gested for finding an analytical (as opposed to a numerical) description of long-wave breaking. The pre sent long-wave breaking numerical results agree quite well with the author’s previous analytical and theo retical results.
基金Open Fund of Key Laboratory of Coastal Disasters and Defence (Ministry of Education)National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract No. 50779015
文摘In the present paper, by introducing the effective wave elevation, we transform the extended elliptic mild-slope equation with bottom friction, wave breaking and steep or rapidly varying bottom topography to the simplest time-dependent hyperbolic equation. Based on this equation and the empirical nonlinear amplitude dispersion relation proposed by Li et al. （2003）, the numerical scheme is established. Error analysis by Taylor expansion method shows that the numerical stability of the present model succeeds the merits in Song et al. （2007）＇s model because of the introduced dissipation terms. For the purpose of verifying its performance on wave nonlinearity, rapidly varying topography and wave breaking, the present model is applied to study： （1） wave refraction and diffraction over a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope （Berkhoff et al., 1982）; （2） Bragg reflection of monochromatic waves from the sinusoidal ripples （Davies and Heathershaw, 1985）; （3） wave transformation near a shore attached breakwater （Watanabe and Maruyama, 1986）. Comparisons of the numerical solutions with the experimental or theoretical ones or with those of other models （REF/DIF model and FUNWAVE model） show good results, which indicate that the present model is capable of giving favorably predictions of wave refraction, diffraction, reflection, shoaling, bottom friction, breaking energy dissipation and weak nonlinearity in the near shore zone.
