Real waves are multidirectional waves. In the present study, the calculation method for the wave maker driving signals for generating multidirectional wave groups in physical wave basin is proposed. Its validity is fi...Real waves are multidirectional waves. In the present study, the calculation method for the wave maker driving signals for generating multidirectional wave groups in physical wave basin is proposed. Its validity is first confirmed by a numerical model for which the incident boundary condition is determined by use of the proposed method. Then, the physical simulation of multidirectional wave groups is performed in laboratory wave basin. The experimental results show that multidirectional waves with expected wave groupiness, which includes not only its group height but also its group length, can be satisfactorily zenerated at the soecified oosition in the tphvsical wave basin.展开更多
The main objective of this paper is to examine the influences of both the principal wave direction and the directional spreading parameter of the wave energy on the wave height evolution of multidirectional irregular ...The main objective of this paper is to examine the influences of both the principal wave direction and the directional spreading parameter of the wave energy on the wave height evolution of multidirectional irregular waves over an impermeable sloping bottom and to propose an improved wave height distribution model based on an existing classical formula.The numerical model FUNWAVE 2.0,based on a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation,is employed to simulate the propagation of multidirectional irregular waves over the sloping bottom.Comparisons of wave heights derived from wave trains with various principal wave directions and different directional spreading parameters are conducted.Results show that both the principal wave direction and the wave directional spread have significant influences on the wave height evolution on a varying coastal topography.The shoaling effect for the wave height is obviously weakened with the increase of the principal wave direction and with the decrease of the directional spreading parameter.With the simulated data,the classical Klopman wave height distribution model is improved by considering the influences of both factors.It is found that the improved model performs better in describing the wave height distribution for the multidirectional irregular waves in shallow water.展开更多
Freak waves are commonly characterized by strong-nonlinearity, and the wave steepness, which is calculated from the wavelength, is a measure of the degree of the wave nonlinearity. Moreover, the wavelength can describ...Freak waves are commonly characterized by strong-nonlinearity, and the wave steepness, which is calculated from the wavelength, is a measure of the degree of the wave nonlinearity. Moreover, the wavelength can describe the locally spatial characteristics of freak waves. Generally, the wavelengths of freak waves are estimated from the dispersion relations of Stokes waves. This paper concerns whether this approach enables a consistent estimate of the wavelength of freak waves. The two-(unidirectional, long-crested) and three-dimensional(multidirectional, shortcrested) freak waves are simulated experimentally through the dispersive and directional focusing of component waves, and the wavelengths obtained from the surface elevations measured by the wave gauge array are compared with the results from the linear, 3rd-order and 5th-order Stokes wave theories. The comparison results suggest that the 3rd-order theory estimates the wavelengths of freak waves with higher accuracy than the linear and 5th-order theories. Furthermore, the results allow insights into the dominant factors. It is particularly noteworthy that the accuracy is likely to depend on the wave period, and that the wavelengths of longer period freak waves are overestimated but the wavelengths are underestimated for shorter period ones. In order to decrease the deviation, a modified formulation is presented to predict the wavelengths of two-and three-dimensional freak waves more accurately than the 3rd-order dispersion relation, by regression analysis. The normalized differences between the predicted and experimental results are over 50% smaller for the modified model suggested in this study compared with the 3rd-order dispersion relation.展开更多
In this paper, the modified Bayesian method for the analysis of directional wave spectra and reflection coefficients is verified by numerical and physical simulation of waves. The results show that the method can basi...In this paper, the modified Bayesian method for the analysis of directional wave spectra and reflection coefficients is verified by numerical and physical simulation of waves. The results show that the method can basically separate the incident and reflected directional spectra. In addition, the effect of the type of wave gage arrays, the number of measured wave properties, and the distance between the wave gage array and the reflection line on the resolution of the method are investigated. Some suggestions are proposed for practical application.展开更多
Comprehensive 3D model tests and numerical simulation were performed to study the effects of wave obliquity and multidirectionality on the wave forces acting on vertical breakwaters. The variation of wave forces actin...Comprehensive 3D model tests and numerical simulation were performed to study the effects of wave obliquity and multidirectionality on the wave forces acting on vertical breakwaters. The variation of wave forces acting on the unit length of a breakwater was analyzed, and the results were compared with Goda＇s formula. A numerical model based on a short-crest wave system was used to model regular wave forces for practical use, which showed good results for those waves with small incident angles.展开更多
基金supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant Nos. 51079023 and 50921001)the Program for New Century Excellent Talents in University (Grant No. NCET-05-0282)
文摘Real waves are multidirectional waves. In the present study, the calculation method for the wave maker driving signals for generating multidirectional wave groups in physical wave basin is proposed. Its validity is first confirmed by a numerical model for which the incident boundary condition is determined by use of the proposed method. Then, the physical simulation of multidirectional wave groups is performed in laboratory wave basin. The experimental results show that multidirectional waves with expected wave groupiness, which includes not only its group height but also its group length, can be satisfactorily zenerated at the soecified oosition in the tphvsical wave basin.
基金the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.51809039)the Natural Science Foundation of Jiangsu Province(Grant No.BK20201455)+1 种基金the Natural Science Foundation of the Jiangsu Higher Education Institutions(Grant No.20KJD170005)the Qing Lan Project of Jiangsu Universities.
文摘The main objective of this paper is to examine the influences of both the principal wave direction and the directional spreading parameter of the wave energy on the wave height evolution of multidirectional irregular waves over an impermeable sloping bottom and to propose an improved wave height distribution model based on an existing classical formula.The numerical model FUNWAVE 2.0,based on a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation,is employed to simulate the propagation of multidirectional irregular waves over the sloping bottom.Comparisons of wave heights derived from wave trains with various principal wave directions and different directional spreading parameters are conducted.Results show that both the principal wave direction and the wave directional spread have significant influences on the wave height evolution on a varying coastal topography.The shoaling effect for the wave height is obviously weakened with the increase of the principal wave direction and with the decrease of the directional spreading parameter.With the simulated data,the classical Klopman wave height distribution model is improved by considering the influences of both factors.It is found that the improved model performs better in describing the wave height distribution for the multidirectional irregular waves in shallow water.
基金financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant Nos.51509120 and 52171260)the Basic Funding of the Central Public Research Institutes (Grant No.TKS20200317)。
文摘Freak waves are commonly characterized by strong-nonlinearity, and the wave steepness, which is calculated from the wavelength, is a measure of the degree of the wave nonlinearity. Moreover, the wavelength can describe the locally spatial characteristics of freak waves. Generally, the wavelengths of freak waves are estimated from the dispersion relations of Stokes waves. This paper concerns whether this approach enables a consistent estimate of the wavelength of freak waves. The two-(unidirectional, long-crested) and three-dimensional(multidirectional, shortcrested) freak waves are simulated experimentally through the dispersive and directional focusing of component waves, and the wavelengths obtained from the surface elevations measured by the wave gauge array are compared with the results from the linear, 3rd-order and 5th-order Stokes wave theories. The comparison results suggest that the 3rd-order theory estimates the wavelengths of freak waves with higher accuracy than the linear and 5th-order theories. Furthermore, the results allow insights into the dominant factors. It is particularly noteworthy that the accuracy is likely to depend on the wave period, and that the wavelengths of longer period freak waves are overestimated but the wavelengths are underestimated for shorter period ones. In order to decrease the deviation, a modified formulation is presented to predict the wavelengths of two-and three-dimensional freak waves more accurately than the 3rd-order dispersion relation, by regression analysis. The normalized differences between the predicted and experimental results are over 50% smaller for the modified model suggested in this study compared with the 3rd-order dispersion relation.
基金The work reported in this paper is financially supported by both the National Natural Science Foundation of China (No.59909001) the Research Fund for the Doctoral Program of Ministry of Education of China (No.98014118)
文摘In this paper, the modified Bayesian method for the analysis of directional wave spectra and reflection coefficients is verified by numerical and physical simulation of waves. The results show that the method can basically separate the incident and reflected directional spectra. In addition, the effect of the type of wave gage arrays, the number of measured wave properties, and the distance between the wave gage array and the reflection line on the resolution of the method are investigated. Some suggestions are proposed for practical application.
基金Project supported by the National Nature Science Foundation of China (Grant No: 50079001).
文摘Comprehensive 3D model tests and numerical simulation were performed to study the effects of wave obliquity and multidirectionality on the wave forces acting on vertical breakwaters. The variation of wave forces acting on the unit length of a breakwater was analyzed, and the results were compared with Goda＇s formula. A numerical model based on a short-crest wave system was used to model regular wave forces for practical use, which showed good results for those waves with small incident angles.
