To analyze the grain size and depositional environment of the foreshore sediments, a study was undertaken on wave refraction along the wide sandy beaches of central Tamil Nadu coast. The nearshore waves approach the c...To analyze the grain size and depositional environment of the foreshore sediments, a study was undertaken on wave refraction along the wide sandy beaches of central Tamil Nadu coast. The nearshore waves approach the coast at 45° during the northeast(NE) monsoon, at 135° during the southwest(SW) monsoon and at 90° during the non-monsoon or fair-weather period with a predominant wave period of 8 and 10 s. A computer based wave refraction pattern is constructed to evaluate the trajectories of shoreward propagating waves along the coast in different seasons. The convergent wave rays during NE monsoon, leads to high energy wave condition which conveys a continuous erosion at foreshore region while divergent and inept condition of rays during the SW and non-monsoon, leads to moderate and less energy waves that clearly demarcates the rebuilt beach sediments through littoral sediment transport. The role of wave refraction in foreshore deposits was understood by grain size and depositional environment analysis. The presence of fine grains with the mixed population, during the NE monsoon reveals that the high energy wave condition and sediments were derived from beach and river environment. Conversely, the presence of medium grains with uniform population, during SW and non-monsoon attested less turbulence and sediments were derived from prolong propagation of onshore-offshore wave process.These upshots are apparently correlated with the in situ beach condition. On the whole, from this study it is understood that beaches underwent erosion during the NE monsoon and restored its original condition during the SW and non-monsoon seasons that exposed the stability of the beach and nearshore condition.展开更多
In most coastal and estuarine areas,tides easily cause surface erosion and even slope failure,resulting in severe land losses,deterioration of coastal infrastructure,and increased floods.The bio-cementation technique ...In most coastal and estuarine areas,tides easily cause surface erosion and even slope failure,resulting in severe land losses,deterioration of coastal infrastructure,and increased floods.The bio-cementation technique has been previously demonstrated to effectively improve the erosion resistance of slopes.Seawater contains magnesium ions(Mg^(2+))with a higher concentration than calcium ions(Ca^(2+));therefore,Mg^(2+)and Ca^(2+)were used together for bio-cementation in this study at various Mg^(2+)/Ca^(2+)ratios as the microbially induced magnesium and calcium precipitation(MIMCP)treatment.Slope angles,surface strengths,precipitation contents,major phases,and microscopic characteristics of precipitation were used to evaluate the treatment effects.Results showed that the MIMCP treatment markedly enhanced the erosion resistance of slopes.Decreased Mg^(2+)/Ca^(2+)ratios resulted in a smaller change in angles and fewer soil losses,especially the Mg^(2+)concentration below 0.2 M.The decreased Mg^(2+)/Ca^(2+)ratio achieved increased precipitation contents,which contributed to better erosion resistance and higher surface strengths.Additionally,the production of aragonite would benefit from elevated Mg^(2+)concentrations and a higher Ca^(2+)concentration led to more nesquehonite in magnesium precipitation crystals.The slopes with an initial angle of 53°had worse erosion resistance than the slopes with an initial angle of 35°,but the Mg^(2+)/Ca^(2+)ratios of 0.2:0.8,0.1:0.9,and 0:1.0 were effective for both slope stabilization and erosion mitigation to a great extent.The results are of great significance for the application of MIMCP to improve erosion resistance of foreshore slopes and the MIMCP technique has promising application potential in marine engineering.展开更多
A straightforward conceptual method is proposed to quantitatively assess the seasonal-scale tendency of retreatment or advancement on microtidal beaches by using the backshore/foreshore length ratio. This method is ba...A straightforward conceptual method is proposed to quantitatively assess the seasonal-scale tendency of retreatment or advancement on microtidal beaches by using the backshore/foreshore length ratio. This method is based on measuring the cross-shore profile of a beach when it passes through the “transitional state” that separates the high-from the low-energy season, period during which the morphological characteristics of the beach tend to its equilibrium profile. In order to obtain real measurements of backshore (B) and foreshore (F), the definition of the limits bounding these two important components in subaerial beaches is reviewed and discussed. The approach based on the measurement of the?B/F?length ratio assumes that foreshore and backshore have equivalent lengths in beaches that approximate to their state of morphodynamic equilibrium (B/F?~ 1). A backshore length exceeding the foreshore length is indicative of a state of beach recession, with a?B/F?length ratio > 1. When the foreshore length is greater than the backshore length, the shoreline is advancing or, alternatively, it is developing in a state of morphological confinement,?i.e.?due to the presence of a sea cliff, with a?B/F?< 1. This practical method is then tested against 36 sand and gravel microtidal beach profiles measured along the coasts of Basilicata, in southern Italy. The various “beach states” are summarised into seven classes (I-VII), each identified from specific value intervals of the?B/F?length ratio.展开更多
The comparison results of three beach profile data repeatedly measured before and after the typhoon in Shuidong Bay,west Guangdong province which show that there are significant differences in beach profile erosion an...The comparison results of three beach profile data repeatedly measured before and after the typhoon in Shuidong Bay,west Guangdong province which show that there are significant differences in beach profile erosion and response process.And the changes of beach profile can be divided into:strong downward overall low shoreline regressive type and overall slight erosion shoreline regressive type.Application of the modified mildslope equation along three beach profile are simulated wave high reflection to the sea side,to the section vertical shore pressure gradient and including water roll force and radiation stress,the vertical shore forces one dimensional profile along the momentum conservation equation(radiation stress and water roll force)bottom friction and lateral mixing reaction between numerical solution,the momentum conservation equations of the wave increases the water flow velocity and section along the profile distribution of wave height and related forces.The analysis shows that the extent and difference of coastal erosion depend on the shoreline erosion mode stimulated by the maximum surge water of the coastal current and the maximum velocity of the coastal current and the dynamic state of the profile topography under the action of the profile location,morphology and incident wave elements.展开更多
In the present study, the stabilization effects of the laying of a drainage layer in a sandy beach were analyzed. The numerical model developed by Hur et al. （2011） was used to examine the characteristics of wave-sa...In the present study, the stabilization effects of the laying of a drainage layer in a sandy beach were analyzed. The numerical model developed by Hur et al. （2011） was used to examine the characteristics of wave-sandy beach interaction with/without a drainage layer. This numericai model directly simulates Wave-Structure-Seabed/Sandy （WASS） beach interaction by consid- ering flow through a porous medium with inertia, laminar and turbulent resistances, and determines the eddy viscosity with the Large Eddy Simulation （LES） turbulent model in a 3-D wave field （LES-WASS-3D）. Based on the numerical results, it ap- pears that the installation of a drainage layer in the beach results in a decrease in both the mean groundwater level around the foreshore and the flow moving offshore on the beach surface. Spatial distributions of the mean groundwater level and wave setup around the foreshore with various arrangements of the drainage layer and conditions of the incident wave are also discussed in this paper.展开更多
文摘To analyze the grain size and depositional environment of the foreshore sediments, a study was undertaken on wave refraction along the wide sandy beaches of central Tamil Nadu coast. The nearshore waves approach the coast at 45° during the northeast(NE) monsoon, at 135° during the southwest(SW) monsoon and at 90° during the non-monsoon or fair-weather period with a predominant wave period of 8 and 10 s. A computer based wave refraction pattern is constructed to evaluate the trajectories of shoreward propagating waves along the coast in different seasons. The convergent wave rays during NE monsoon, leads to high energy wave condition which conveys a continuous erosion at foreshore region while divergent and inept condition of rays during the SW and non-monsoon, leads to moderate and less energy waves that clearly demarcates the rebuilt beach sediments through littoral sediment transport. The role of wave refraction in foreshore deposits was understood by grain size and depositional environment analysis. The presence of fine grains with the mixed population, during the NE monsoon reveals that the high energy wave condition and sediments were derived from beach and river environment. Conversely, the presence of medium grains with uniform population, during SW and non-monsoon attested less turbulence and sediments were derived from prolong propagation of onshore-offshore wave process.These upshots are apparently correlated with the in situ beach condition. On the whole, from this study it is understood that beaches underwent erosion during the NE monsoon and restored its original condition during the SW and non-monsoon seasons that exposed the stability of the beach and nearshore condition.
基金funded by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.51578147)Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities(Grant No.2242020R20025)Ningxia Science and Technology Department(Grant No.2020BFG02014).
文摘In most coastal and estuarine areas,tides easily cause surface erosion and even slope failure,resulting in severe land losses,deterioration of coastal infrastructure,and increased floods.The bio-cementation technique has been previously demonstrated to effectively improve the erosion resistance of slopes.Seawater contains magnesium ions(Mg^(2+))with a higher concentration than calcium ions(Ca^(2+));therefore,Mg^(2+)and Ca^(2+)were used together for bio-cementation in this study at various Mg^(2+)/Ca^(2+)ratios as the microbially induced magnesium and calcium precipitation(MIMCP)treatment.Slope angles,surface strengths,precipitation contents,major phases,and microscopic characteristics of precipitation were used to evaluate the treatment effects.Results showed that the MIMCP treatment markedly enhanced the erosion resistance of slopes.Decreased Mg^(2+)/Ca^(2+)ratios resulted in a smaller change in angles and fewer soil losses,especially the Mg^(2+)concentration below 0.2 M.The decreased Mg^(2+)/Ca^(2+)ratio achieved increased precipitation contents,which contributed to better erosion resistance and higher surface strengths.Additionally,the production of aragonite would benefit from elevated Mg^(2+)concentrations and a higher Ca^(2+)concentration led to more nesquehonite in magnesium precipitation crystals.The slopes with an initial angle of 53°had worse erosion resistance than the slopes with an initial angle of 35°,but the Mg^(2+)/Ca^(2+)ratios of 0.2:0.8,0.1:0.9,and 0:1.0 were effective for both slope stabilization and erosion mitigation to a great extent.The results are of great significance for the application of MIMCP to improve erosion resistance of foreshore slopes and the MIMCP technique has promising application potential in marine engineering.
文摘A straightforward conceptual method is proposed to quantitatively assess the seasonal-scale tendency of retreatment or advancement on microtidal beaches by using the backshore/foreshore length ratio. This method is based on measuring the cross-shore profile of a beach when it passes through the “transitional state” that separates the high-from the low-energy season, period during which the morphological characteristics of the beach tend to its equilibrium profile. In order to obtain real measurements of backshore (B) and foreshore (F), the definition of the limits bounding these two important components in subaerial beaches is reviewed and discussed. The approach based on the measurement of the?B/F?length ratio assumes that foreshore and backshore have equivalent lengths in beaches that approximate to their state of morphodynamic equilibrium (B/F?~ 1). A backshore length exceeding the foreshore length is indicative of a state of beach recession, with a?B/F?length ratio > 1. When the foreshore length is greater than the backshore length, the shoreline is advancing or, alternatively, it is developing in a state of morphological confinement,?i.e.?due to the presence of a sea cliff, with a?B/F?< 1. This practical method is then tested against 36 sand and gravel microtidal beach profiles measured along the coasts of Basilicata, in southern Italy. The various “beach states” are summarised into seven classes (I-VII), each identified from specific value intervals of the?B/F?length ratio.
基金Project funded by the National Nature Fund(41371498,42071007)。
文摘The comparison results of three beach profile data repeatedly measured before and after the typhoon in Shuidong Bay,west Guangdong province which show that there are significant differences in beach profile erosion and response process.And the changes of beach profile can be divided into:strong downward overall low shoreline regressive type and overall slight erosion shoreline regressive type.Application of the modified mildslope equation along three beach profile are simulated wave high reflection to the sea side,to the section vertical shore pressure gradient and including water roll force and radiation stress,the vertical shore forces one dimensional profile along the momentum conservation equation(radiation stress and water roll force)bottom friction and lateral mixing reaction between numerical solution,the momentum conservation equations of the wave increases the water flow velocity and section along the profile distribution of wave height and related forces.The analysis shows that the extent and difference of coastal erosion depend on the shoreline erosion mode stimulated by the maximum surge water of the coastal current and the maximum velocity of the coastal current and the dynamic state of the profile topography under the action of the profile location,morphology and incident wave elements.
基金supported by Basic Science Researcher Program through NRF (National Research Foundation of Korea) grant funded by the MEST(Ministry of Education,Science and Technology) (Grant No. 2011-0013609)
文摘In the present study, the stabilization effects of the laying of a drainage layer in a sandy beach were analyzed. The numerical model developed by Hur et al. （2011） was used to examine the characteristics of wave-sandy beach interaction with/without a drainage layer. This numericai model directly simulates Wave-Structure-Seabed/Sandy （WASS） beach interaction by consid- ering flow through a porous medium with inertia, laminar and turbulent resistances, and determines the eddy viscosity with the Large Eddy Simulation （LES） turbulent model in a 3-D wave field （LES-WASS-3D）. Based on the numerical results, it ap- pears that the installation of a drainage layer in the beach results in a decrease in both the mean groundwater level around the foreshore and the flow moving offshore on the beach surface. Spatial distributions of the mean groundwater level and wave setup around the foreshore with various arrangements of the drainage layer and conditions of the incident wave are also discussed in this paper.
