In this paper, it is held that the universal relationships of wave growth in fetch-limited conditions , i. e., (f|~) p=A(x|~)-Band (m|~)0= C(x|~) Dshould satisfy the Toba 3/2 power law and the wave energy balance equa...In this paper, it is held that the universal relationships of wave growth in fetch-limited conditions , i. e., (f|~) p=A(x|~)-Band (m|~)0= C(x|~) Dshould satisfy the Toba 3/2 power law and the wave energy balance equation. In the ideal generation situation, theoretically it can be derived that the ideal fetch-limited wave growth relationship should have D=3B and D+B =1, (i.e., B = 0.25, D = 0.75 ) and A3C=2. 1×l(T4C^(1/2)_d , where Cd is the drag coefficient. The 3/2 power law, the wave energy balance equation and the decrease of wave steepness with increasing fetch have became three requirements which should be satisfied by fetch-limited wave growth algorithms. A semi-empirical and semi-theoretical model for fetch-limited wave growth is presented. In the application to the slanting wind situation an un(?)ersal relationship of dimensionless wave energy vs dimensionless peak frequency is presented and the comparisons show that the model is in good agreement with observations.展开更多
Using the limit surface slope as a criterion of wave breaking, a simple model for estimating the spatial fraction of breaking surface of sea at an instant, which is regarded as the whitecap coverge in this paper, is a...Using the limit surface slope as a criterion of wave breaking, a simple model for estimating the spatial fraction of breaking surface of sea at an instant, which is regarded as the whitecap coverge in this paper, is analytically derived from the probability density of surface slope based on Gaussian statistics. The resulting fraction is found depending on the fourth moment of wave spectum, m(4), as well as the critical threshold of surface slope. By expressing the fourth moment in terms of the Neumann spectrum, a formula linking the fraction and wind speed for fully developed sea states is obtianed. Another formula relating the fraction to both wind speed and fetch (or duration) is achieved by expressing m, in terms of the Krylov spectrum and applying the empirical relationships used in the SMB ocean wave predicting technique. A comparison between these results and the field data of whitecap coverage collected by Monahan and O'Muircheartuigh shows an encouraging agreement.展开更多
文摘In this paper, it is held that the universal relationships of wave growth in fetch-limited conditions , i. e., (f|~) p=A(x|~)-Band (m|~)0= C(x|~) Dshould satisfy the Toba 3/2 power law and the wave energy balance equation. In the ideal generation situation, theoretically it can be derived that the ideal fetch-limited wave growth relationship should have D=3B and D+B =1, (i.e., B = 0.25, D = 0.75 ) and A3C=2. 1×l(T4C^(1/2)_d , where Cd is the drag coefficient. The 3/2 power law, the wave energy balance equation and the decrease of wave steepness with increasing fetch have became three requirements which should be satisfied by fetch-limited wave growth algorithms. A semi-empirical and semi-theoretical model for fetch-limited wave growth is presented. In the application to the slanting wind situation an un(?)ersal relationship of dimensionless wave energy vs dimensionless peak frequency is presented and the comparisons show that the model is in good agreement with observations.
基金This work was financially supported by the National Science Foundation of China(No.49476270,49706067)
文摘Using the limit surface slope as a criterion of wave breaking, a simple model for estimating the spatial fraction of breaking surface of sea at an instant, which is regarded as the whitecap coverge in this paper, is analytically derived from the probability density of surface slope based on Gaussian statistics. The resulting fraction is found depending on the fourth moment of wave spectum, m(4), as well as the critical threshold of surface slope. By expressing the fourth moment in terms of the Neumann spectrum, a formula linking the fraction and wind speed for fully developed sea states is obtianed. Another formula relating the fraction to both wind speed and fetch (or duration) is achieved by expressing m, in terms of the Krylov spectrum and applying the empirical relationships used in the SMB ocean wave predicting technique. A comparison between these results and the field data of whitecap coverage collected by Monahan and O'Muircheartuigh shows an encouraging agreement.