On the basis of data of drifting bottles＇ tracks and the current measured in anchored stations, as well as temperature and salinity observed in cruise investigations and coastal stations, ADCP current data and AVHRR ...On the basis of data of drifting bottles＇ tracks and the current measured in anchored stations, as well as temperature and salinity observed in cruise investigations and coastal stations, ADCP current data and AVHRR surface sea temperature （SST） data on the western coast of Guangdong, synthetic results of analysis showed that the coastal currents in the west of the mouth of the Zhujiang River were mainly westward in summer, which constituted the north branch of cyclonic gyre in the east of the Qiongzhou Straits. Part of its water flowed westward into the Beibu Gulf through the Qiongzhou Straits. The coastal current pattern was not identical with the traditional current system which flowed westward in the Qiongzhou Straits in winter and eastward in summer. The summertime＇s coastal current was always westward, maybe temporarily turning northeast only when the southwest wind was strong. The important characteristics of coastal current on the western coast of Guangdong, in the Qiongzhou Straits and in the north of the Beibu Gulf were analyzed and their mechanisms also were explained.展开更多
In this paper, the water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obak6y coastal water which is located at the Mediterranean coast of Turkey were numerically studied. The numerical model is based on the parabolic ...In this paper, the water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obak6y coastal water which is located at the Mediterranean coast of Turkey were numerically studied. The numerical model is based on the parabolic mild-slope equation for coastal water waves and the nonlinear shallow water equation for the wave-induced currents. The wave transformation under the effects of shoaling, refraction, diffraction and breaking is considered, and the wave provides radiation stresses for driving currents in the model. The numerical results for the water wave-induced longshore currents were validated by the measured data to demonstrate the efficiency of the numerical model. Then the water waves and longshore currents induced by the waves from main directions were numerically simulated and analyzed based on the numerical results. The numerical results show that the movement of the longshore currents was different while the wave proDaRated to a coastal zone from different directions.展开更多
The Old Red Sand is composed of brown-red, red, or orange-yellow semi-cemented and medium-fine sand sediment, mainly dis- tributed along the southeast coast of China. Based on previous studies, this paper summarizes t...The Old Red Sand is composed of brown-red, red, or orange-yellow semi-cemented and medium-fine sand sediment, mainly dis- tributed along the southeast coast of China. Based on previous studies, this paper summarizes the distribution and forms, sedi- mentary characteristics, formation mechanism, developing age, reddening process and the paleo-environment, suggesting that the Old Red Sand is mainly aeolian sediment of Late Pleistocene Age. The reddening process is mainly the result of decomposition and oxidation of iron-containing minerals caused by hot and humid tropical and sub-tropical climate. In this study, existing prob- lems are discussed and the prospect of further research is presented as well.展开更多
Model tests and numerical calculation of longshore currents and wave heights produced by irregular waves on two beaches with slopes of 1:100 and 1:40 are studied. The cross-shore distributions of longshore current vel...Model tests and numerical calculation of longshore currents and wave heights produced by irregular waves on two beaches with slopes of 1:100 and 1:40 are studied. The cross-shore distributions of longshore current velocities and wave heights are given and the influences of wave heights, wave periods, and beach slopes on longshore currents are discussed. The discussion is also made on the influences of different eddy viscosity coefficients on the numerical results of longshore current velocities.展开更多
The experiment and numerical computations of longshore currents produced by regularwaves on the two beaches with the slopes of 1:100 and 1:40 are made. The cross-shore distributions of longshore current velocities and...The experiment and numerical computations of longshore currents produced by regularwaves on the two beaches with the slopes of 1:100 and 1:40 are made. The cross-shore distributions of longshore current velocities and wave heights are given and the influences of wave heights, wave periods and beach slopes on the longshore currents are discussed. The discussion is also made for the influences of different eddy viscosity coefficients on the numerical results of longshore current velocities.展开更多
A laboratory experiment on the instability of alongshore currents was conducted on a plane beach with slope 1：40. Low-frequency fluctuations of alongshore currents with the period of approximately 100 s were observed...A laboratory experiment on the instability of alongshore currents was conducted on a plane beach with slope 1：40. Low-frequency fluctuations of alongshore currents with the period of approximately 100 s were observed. The dominant frequency and amplitudes of the oscillations of alongshore currents were determined using the maximum entropy method and the regression method of trigonometric function. The variations across the beach cross-section of the oscillation amplitudes of the alongshore current were given. The linear shear instability theory was used to analyze the mechanism of the oscillation, and the calculated results agreed with measurements. This confirms that the observed fluctuation of alongshore currents is due to the shear instability of alongshore currents.展开更多
The abandoned Yellow River Delta coast is a typical erodible silty and muddy coast in China. The paper analyses the marine dynamic characteristics and the mechanism of beach erosion of this area. Analysis and calculat...The abandoned Yellow River Delta coast is a typical erodible silty and muddy coast in China. The paper analyses the marine dynamic characteristics and the mechanism of beach erosion of this area. Analysis and calculation show that in this sea area wave and tidal current action should be considered. Based on the above analysis, an equilibrium beach profile calculation model is developed, in which the wave-current interaction is considered while sediment supply and sediment re-deposition are neglected. The model consists of four parts: (1) calculation of wave parameters, (2) calculation of velocity due to wave-current interaction at different water depth, (3) calculation of friction velocity and shear stress at different water depths, and (4) calculation of the amount of sediment erosion, erosion intensity and variation of beach profile. Calculated results are in good agreement with observed data. Finally, the evolution tendency is discussed and the equilibrium beach profile of this coast is calculated. B展开更多
In this study, the sectional characteristics of temperature, salinity and density off the central Zhejiang coast were analyzed using three sections of observational data in the spring of 2016. The results are as follo...In this study, the sectional characteristics of temperature, salinity and density off the central Zhejiang coast were analyzed using three sections of observational data in the spring of 2016. The results are as follows:(1) a cold water patch was observed in the middle layer of sections from 10 to 25 m, and a weak upwelling was observed at the upper layer near the central Zhejiang coast;(2) several thermoclines, inverted thermoclines, and haloclines were observed in the survey area;(3) the Taiwan Warm Current Water(TWCW) climbing from the slope towards the survey area affected the thermocline, making it thinner and intensified; however, the TWCW was not strong enough to break through the thermocline to reach the sea surface.展开更多
The effects of tidal currents(i.e., barotropic and internal tides) are important in the biogeochemistry of a coastal shelf sea. The high-frequency of currents and near-bottom temperatures collected in three consecutiv...The effects of tidal currents(i.e., barotropic and internal tides) are important in the biogeochemistry of a coastal shelf sea. The high-frequency of currents and near-bottom temperatures collected in three consecutive southwest monsoon seasons(May, June, July and August of 2013 until 2015) is presented to reveal the role of the tidal currents to the temperature variability in the coastal shelf sea of the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia(ECPM),south of the South China Sea(SCS). The results of a spectral density and harmonic analysis demonstrate that the near-bottom temperature variability and the tidal currents are influenced by diurnal(O_1 and K_1) and semidiurnal(M_2) tidal currents. The spectral density of residual currents(detided data) at 5, 10 and 16 m depth also shows significant peaks at the diurnal tidal frequency(K_1) and small peaks at the semidiurnal tidal frequency(M_2)indicating the existence of internal tides. The result of the horizontal kinetic energy(HKE) shows a strong intermittent energy of internal tides in the ECPM with the strongest energy is found at 16 m depth during a sporadic cooling event in June and July. A high horizontal cross-shore heat flux(16 m) also indicates strong intrusions of cooler water into the ECPM in June and July. During the short duration of cold pulse water observed in June and July, a cross-wavelet analysis also reveals the strong relationship between the near-bottom temperatures and the internal tidal currents at the diurnal tidal frequency. The intrusion of this cooler water is probably related to the monsoon-induced upwelling in June. It is loosely interpreted that the interaction between the strong barotropic tides and the steep slope in the central basin of the SCS under the stratified condition in southwest monsoon has generated these internal tides. The dissipation of internal tides from the slope area probably has driven the cold-upwelled water into the ECPM coastal shelf sea when the upwelling intensity is the highest in June and July.展开更多
文摘On the basis of data of drifting bottles＇ tracks and the current measured in anchored stations, as well as temperature and salinity observed in cruise investigations and coastal stations, ADCP current data and AVHRR surface sea temperature （SST） data on the western coast of Guangdong, synthetic results of analysis showed that the coastal currents in the west of the mouth of the Zhujiang River were mainly westward in summer, which constituted the north branch of cyclonic gyre in the east of the Qiongzhou Straits. Part of its water flowed westward into the Beibu Gulf through the Qiongzhou Straits. The coastal current pattern was not identical with the traditional current system which flowed westward in the Qiongzhou Straits in winter and eastward in summer. The summertime＇s coastal current was always westward, maybe temporarily turning northeast only when the southwest wind was strong. The important characteristics of coastal current on the western coast of Guangdong, in the Qiongzhou Straits and in the north of the Beibu Gulf were analyzed and their mechanisms also were explained.
基金The National Basic Research Program of China under contract No.2013CB430403the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract No.51179025+1 种基金the Open Foundation of State Key Laboratory of Hydrology-Water Resources and Hydraulic Engineering under contract No.2013491511the Open Foundation of State Key Laboratory of Ocean Engineering under contract No.1305
文摘In this paper, the water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obak6y coastal water which is located at the Mediterranean coast of Turkey were numerically studied. The numerical model is based on the parabolic mild-slope equation for coastal water waves and the nonlinear shallow water equation for the wave-induced currents. The wave transformation under the effects of shoaling, refraction, diffraction and breaking is considered, and the wave provides radiation stresses for driving currents in the model. The numerical results for the water wave-induced longshore currents were validated by the measured data to demonstrate the efficiency of the numerical model. Then the water waves and longshore currents induced by the waves from main directions were numerically simulated and analyzed based on the numerical results. The numerical results show that the movement of the longshore currents was different while the wave proDaRated to a coastal zone from different directions.
基金supported by National Natural Science Foundation of China (No. 40971007)
文摘The Old Red Sand is composed of brown-red, red, or orange-yellow semi-cemented and medium-fine sand sediment, mainly dis- tributed along the southeast coast of China. Based on previous studies, this paper summarizes the distribution and forms, sedi- mentary characteristics, formation mechanism, developing age, reddening process and the paleo-environment, suggesting that the Old Red Sand is mainly aeolian sediment of Late Pleistocene Age. The reddening process is mainly the result of decomposition and oxidation of iron-containing minerals caused by hot and humid tropical and sub-tropical climate. In this study, existing prob- lems are discussed and the prospect of further research is presented as well.
文摘Model tests and numerical calculation of longshore currents and wave heights produced by irregular waves on two beaches with slopes of 1:100 and 1:40 are studied. The cross-shore distributions of longshore current velocities and wave heights are given and the influences of wave heights, wave periods, and beach slopes on longshore currents are discussed. The discussion is also made on the influences of different eddy viscosity coefficients on the numerical results of longshore current velocities.
基金This study was supported by the National Natural Science Foundation,of China under contract Nos 59839330 and 59679005.
文摘The experiment and numerical computations of longshore currents produced by regularwaves on the two beaches with the slopes of 1:100 and 1:40 are made. The cross-shore distributions of longshore current velocities and wave heights are given and the influences of wave heights, wave periods and beach slopes on the longshore currents are discussed. The discussion is also made for the influences of different eddy viscosity coefficients on the numerical results of longshore current velocities.
基金The National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos 50479053 and 10672034
文摘A laboratory experiment on the instability of alongshore currents was conducted on a plane beach with slope 1：40. Low-frequency fluctuations of alongshore currents with the period of approximately 100 s were observed. The dominant frequency and amplitudes of the oscillations of alongshore currents were determined using the maximum entropy method and the regression method of trigonometric function. The variations across the beach cross-section of the oscillation amplitudes of the alongshore current were given. The linear shear instability theory was used to analyze the mechanism of the oscillation, and the calculated results agreed with measurements. This confirms that the observed fluctuation of alongshore currents is due to the shear instability of alongshore currents.
文摘The abandoned Yellow River Delta coast is a typical erodible silty and muddy coast in China. The paper analyses the marine dynamic characteristics and the mechanism of beach erosion of this area. Analysis and calculation show that in this sea area wave and tidal current action should be considered. Based on the above analysis, an equilibrium beach profile calculation model is developed, in which the wave-current interaction is considered while sediment supply and sediment re-deposition are neglected. The model consists of four parts: (1) calculation of wave parameters, (2) calculation of velocity due to wave-current interaction at different water depth, (3) calculation of friction velocity and shear stress at different water depths, and (4) calculation of the amount of sediment erosion, erosion intensity and variation of beach profile. Calculated results are in good agreement with observed data. Finally, the evolution tendency is discussed and the equilibrium beach profile of this coast is calculated. B
基金The National Key R&D Program of China under contract No.2018YFC1406302the National Basic Research Program of China under contract No.2015CB954004the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos 41230961,U1405233 and 41776027
文摘In this study, the sectional characteristics of temperature, salinity and density off the central Zhejiang coast were analyzed using three sections of observational data in the spring of 2016. The results are as follows:(1) a cold water patch was observed in the middle layer of sections from 10 to 25 m, and a weak upwelling was observed at the upper layer near the central Zhejiang coast;(2) several thermoclines, inverted thermoclines, and haloclines were observed in the survey area;(3) the Taiwan Warm Current Water(TWCW) climbing from the slope towards the survey area affected the thermocline, making it thinner and intensified; however, the TWCW was not strong enough to break through the thermocline to reach the sea surface.
基金The Higher Institutional Centre of Excellent Universiti Malaysia Terengganu under contract No.TJ66928the Malaysia Coastal Observation Network Project under the Institute of Oceanography and Environment,Universiti Malaysia Terengganu of Malaysia
文摘The effects of tidal currents(i.e., barotropic and internal tides) are important in the biogeochemistry of a coastal shelf sea. The high-frequency of currents and near-bottom temperatures collected in three consecutive southwest monsoon seasons(May, June, July and August of 2013 until 2015) is presented to reveal the role of the tidal currents to the temperature variability in the coastal shelf sea of the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia(ECPM),south of the South China Sea(SCS). The results of a spectral density and harmonic analysis demonstrate that the near-bottom temperature variability and the tidal currents are influenced by diurnal(O_1 and K_1) and semidiurnal(M_2) tidal currents. The spectral density of residual currents(detided data) at 5, 10 and 16 m depth also shows significant peaks at the diurnal tidal frequency(K_1) and small peaks at the semidiurnal tidal frequency(M_2)indicating the existence of internal tides. The result of the horizontal kinetic energy(HKE) shows a strong intermittent energy of internal tides in the ECPM with the strongest energy is found at 16 m depth during a sporadic cooling event in June and July. A high horizontal cross-shore heat flux(16 m) also indicates strong intrusions of cooler water into the ECPM in June and July. During the short duration of cold pulse water observed in June and July, a cross-wavelet analysis also reveals the strong relationship between the near-bottom temperatures and the internal tidal currents at the diurnal tidal frequency. The intrusion of this cooler water is probably related to the monsoon-induced upwelling in June. It is loosely interpreted that the interaction between the strong barotropic tides and the steep slope in the central basin of the SCS under the stratified condition in southwest monsoon has generated these internal tides. The dissipation of internal tides from the slope area probably has driven the cold-upwelled water into the ECPM coastal shelf sea when the upwelling intensity is the highest in June and July.
