Research has shown considerable variability in whitecap coverage(W)under low to moderate wind conditions.During an expedition to the Northwestern Pacific,oceanographic variables and photographic measurements were coll...Research has shown considerable variability in whitecap coverage(W)under low to moderate wind conditions.During an expedition to the Northwestern Pacific,oceanographic variables and photographic measurements were collected to investigate the influence of wave-induced stress on W within these wind ranges.The friction velocity was recalculated based on turbulent stress,and wind profiles were modified to account for wave-induced stress and swell presence on the sea surface.The study examined W’s relationship with multiple parameters,including friction velocity(u*),breaking wave Reynolds numbers,wavesea Reynolds numbers,and wave age.The analysis utilized both conventional u*and turbulent stress-based friction velocity(u*turb).When utilizing u*turb rather than u*,the estimation model’s fitting results revealed an increase in correlation coefficient(R2)from 0.51 to 0.62,and a decrease in root mean square error(RMSE)from 0.0652 to 0.0574.Additionally,when parameterizing W using the windsea Reynolds number,with u_(*turb) replacing u*and wind wave height substituting mixed wave height,the R^(2) increased from 0.38 to 0.53,and the RMSE decreased from 0.0737 to 0.0668.The results demonstrate that calculating u*using the turbulent stress-based method,along with wind wave height and peak wave speed of mixed waves,yields stronger correlation with W.This correlation improvement stems from the inhibition of wave breaking by swell and wave-induced stress.The integration of turbulent stress and wind wave field measurements enhances the understanding of relationships between W and various parameters.However,swell effects on wind profiles do not substantially affect W estimation using wind speed-related parameters.展开更多
The research on ocean dynamics information plays a crucial role in understanding ocean phenomena, assessing marine environmental impacts, and guiding engineering designs. The Doppler information observed by radars ref...The research on ocean dynamics information plays a crucial role in understanding ocean phenomena, assessing marine environmental impacts, and guiding engineering designs. The Doppler information observed by radars reflects sea surface dynamics, to which ocean waves make important contributions. Low-incidence-angle real aperture radar(RAR)demonstrates great potential for independently observing vectorial Doppler information on the ocean surface. To systematically characterize and accurately estimate the wave-induced Doppler frequency shift(WVF) from lowincidence-angle RAR, this study conducts comprehensive influencing factor analysis and establishes sea-stateparameterized WVF models. First, a simulated WVF dataset is generated under a rotating low-incidence-angle RAR.The feature parameters of WVF are then determined by analysing contributing factors including wind waves, swells,and sea state parameters. Furthermore, two WVF models(WVF_Ku P9 with 9 inputs and WVF_Ku P4 with 4 inputs) are constructed by the Transformer encoder for different application scenarios. Both models achieve high accuracy for WVF estimation with root mean square errors(RMSE) of 1.874 Hz and 2.716 Hz, respectively. The reliability and superiority of the proposed models are validated through comparisons with the Ka DOP, which is a typical geophysical model function(GMF). The findings in this paper advance the understanding of WVF characteristics and generation mechanisms. The proposed estimation models can provide reliable estimates, offering critical references for lowincidence-angle RAR applications such as ocean surface current retrieval.展开更多
The wave-induced fluid flow(WIFF) occurring in the ubiquitous layered porous media(e.g.,shales)usually causes the appreciable seismic energy dissipation,which further leads to the frequency dependence of wave velocity...The wave-induced fluid flow(WIFF) occurring in the ubiquitous layered porous media(e.g.,shales)usually causes the appreciable seismic energy dissipation,which further leads to the frequency dependence of wave velocity(i.e.,dispersion) and elastic anisotropy parameters.The relevant knowledge is of great importance for geofluid discrimination and hydrocarbon exploration in the porous shale reservoirs.We derive the wave equations for a periodic layered transversely isotropy medium with a vertical axis of symmetry(VTI) concurrently with the annular cracks(PLPC medium) based on the periodic-layered model and anisotropic Biot's theory,which simultaneously incorporate the effects of microscopic squirt fluid flow,mesoscopic interlayer fluid flow and macroscopic global fluid flow.Notably,the microscopic squirt shorten fluid flow emerges between the annular-shaped cracks and stiff pores,which generates one attenuation peak.Specifically,we first establish the stress-strain relationship and pore fluid pressure in a PLPC medium,and then use them to derive the wave equations by means of the Newton's second law.The plane analysis is implemented on the wave equations to yield the analytic solutions for phase velocities and attenuation factors of four waves,namely,fast P-wave,slow P-wave,SV-wave and SH-wave,and the anisotropy parameters can be therefore computed.Simulation results show that P-wave velocity have three attenuation peaks throughout the full frequency band,which respectively correspond to the influences of interlayer flow,the squirt flow and the Biot flow.Through the results of seismic velocity dispersion and attenuation at different incident angles,we find that the WIFF mechanism also has a significant impact on the dispersion characteristics of elastic anisotropy parameters within the low-mid frequency band.Moreover,it is shown that several poroelastic parameters,such as layer thickness ratio,crack aspect ratio and crack density have notable influence on seismic dispersion and attenuation.We compare the proposed modeled velocities with that given by the existing theory to confirm its validity.Our formulas and result can provide a better understanding of wave propagation in PLPC medium by considering the unified impacts of micro-,meso-and macro-scale WIFF mechanisms,which potentially lays a theoretical basis of rock physics for seismic interpretation.展开更多
Surface waves have a considerable effect on vertical mixing in the upper ocean.In the past two decades,the vertical mixing induced through nonbreaking surface waves has been used in ocean and climate models to improve...Surface waves have a considerable effect on vertical mixing in the upper ocean.In the past two decades,the vertical mixing induced through nonbreaking surface waves has been used in ocean and climate models to improve the simulation of the upper ocean.Thus far,several nonbreaking wave-induced mixing parameterization schemes have been proposed;however,no quantitative comparison has been performed among them.In this paper,a one-dimensional ocean model was used to compare the performances of five schemes,including those of Qiao et al.(Q),Hu and Wang(HW),Huang and Qiao(HQ),Pleskachevsky et al.(P),and Ghantous and Babanin(GB).Similar to previous studies,all of these schemes can decrease the simulated sea surface temperature(SST),increase the subsurface temperature,and deepen the mixed layer,thereby alleviating the common thermal deviation problem of the ocean model for upper ocean simulation.Among these schemes,the HQ scheme exhibited the weakest wave-induced mixing effect,and the HW scheme exhibited the strongest effect;the other three schemes exhibited roughly the same effect.In particular,the Q and P schemes exhibited nearly the same effect.In the simulation based on observations from the Ocean Weather Station Papa,the HQ scheme exhibited the best performance,followed by the Q scheme.In the experiment with the HQ scheme,the root-mean-square deviation of the simulated SST from the observations was 0.43℃,and the mixed layer depth(MLD)was 2.0 m.As a contrast,the deviations of the SST and MLD reached 1.25℃ and 8.4 m,respectively,in the experiment without wave-induced mixing.展开更多
The previous studies by the MASNUM research team have shown the effectiveness of the wave- induced mixing （By） in improving the simulation of upper-ocean thermal structure. The mech- anisms of Bv are further investi...The previous studies by the MASNUM research team have shown the effectiveness of the wave- induced mixing （By） in improving the simulation of upper-ocean thermal structure. The mech- anisms of Bv are further investigated by incorporating different Bv products into the MASNUM wave-circulation coupled model. First, experiments were designed to explore the effects of By, which contain the contributions at different wave lengths （l）. The results of three experiments, the non-By case, the short-wave case （l 〈300 m）, and the long-wave case （l 〉300 m） are compared, and it is found that the long waves are the most important component for By to generate mixing in the upper ocean. As the swell plays dominant role in mixing, the parameterization of Bv into wind may be not a proper way. Second, Bv effects at different time-scales, including daily and monthly, were examined. The results show that the monthly averaged By has larger impact than the daily averaged Bv, especially in summer.展开更多
The long-shore current distribution on a mild slope beach is studied by combining the numerical model and the physical experiment. The experiments of long-shore currents under the action of regular and irregular waves...The long-shore current distribution on a mild slope beach is studied by combining the numerical model and the physical experiment. The experiments of long-shore currents under the action of regular and irregular waves are conducted on mild beaches with different slopes in a wave basin. A numerical model is established, which includes a wave propagation model, a wave breaking model and a long-shore current model. The validity of the numerical model is proved by the comparison of its results with the results of the experimental model. It is concluded that the wave-ioduced long-shore current is influenced significantly by the incident wave height, the wave angle and the beach slope. Its application to the Bohai Bay indicates that the wave-induced currents have the same order of magnitude as the tide currents in the near-shore zone of mill slope beach. In the design of wastewater ouffall locations on a mild-slope beach with shallow water of the Bohai Bay, the position of the outfall should be 10 km away from the shoreline, which is outside of the surf-zone.展开更多
A quasi three-dimensional numerical model of wave-driven coastal currents with the effects of surface rollers is developed for the study of the spatial lag between the location of the maximum wave-induced current and ...A quasi three-dimensional numerical model of wave-driven coastal currents with the effects of surface rollers is developed for the study of the spatial lag between the location of the maximum wave-induced current and the wave breaking point. The governing equations are derived from Navier-Stokes equations and solved by the hybrid method combining the fractional step finite different method in the horizontal plane with a Galerkin finite element method in the vertical direc- tion. The surface rollers effects are considered through incorporating the creation and evolution of the roller area into the free surface shear stress. An energy equation facilitates the computation process which transfers the wave breaking energy dissipation to the surface roller energy. The wave driver model is a phase-averaged wave model based on the wave action balance equation. Two sets of laboratory experiments producing breaking waves that generated longshore currents on a planar beach am used to evaluate the model＇s performance. The present wave-driven coastal current model with the roller effect in the surface shear stress term can produce satisfactory results by increasing the wave-induced nearshore current velocity inside the surf zone and shifting the location of the maximum longshore current velocity landward.展开更多
Cyclic triaxial tests and numerical analyses were undertaken, in order to evaluate the wave-induced pore water pressure in seabed sediments in the Hangzhou Bay. The cyclic triaxial tests indicate that the rate of pore...Cyclic triaxial tests and numerical analyses were undertaken, in order to evaluate the wave-induced pore water pressure in seabed sediments in the Hangzhou Bay. The cyclic triaxial tests indicate that the rate of pore water pressure generation in cohesive soils decreases with time, and the development of the pore water pressure can be represented by a hyperbolic curve. Numerical analyses, taking into account the generation and dissipation of pore water pressure simultaneously, suggest that the pore water pressure buildup in cohesive soils may increase with time continuously until the pore water pressure ratio approaches to 1, or it may decrease after a certain time, which is controlled by drain conditions. These phenomena are different from those in sands. For waves with a retum period of 100 a in the Hangzhou Bay, if the wave duration is more than 60 h, then the pore water pressure ratio will be close to 1 and soil fabric failure will take place.展开更多
The effects of water depth on the wave-induced vertical bending moment and shearing force on a very large FPSO are studied by experiments and computations for regular and irregular waves. The restricted water depth co...The effects of water depth on the wave-induced vertical bending moment and shearing force on a very large FPSO are studied by experiments and computations for regular and irregular waves. The restricted water depth composite Green function is employed to develop a program for the computation of the hydrodynamic coefficients of the very large FPSO at shallow water. A three-segment model with 1∶100 scale is tested in the State Key Laboratory of Ocean Engineering at Shanghai Jiao Tong University for the verification of the numerical method. The experimental and computational results show that the water depth has a substantial effect on wave-induced loads. The wave-induced vertical loads increase with the decrease of water depth for shallow water. Especially, for ultra-shallow water these loads increase very evidently with the decrease of water depth. The long-term prediction values of wave-induced vertical loads increase with the decrease of the ratio of water depth to draught. The long-term prediction values of wave-induced vertical loads are about 8% larger than those for deep water when the ratio of water depth to draught is 3.0. However, water depth hardly affects the long-term prediction values of wave-induced loads when the ratio of water depth to draught is larger than 5.0.展开更多
When ocean waves propagate over the sea floor,dynamic wave pressures and bottom shear stresses exert on the surface of seabed.The bottom shear stresses provide a horizontal loading in the wave-seabed interaction syste...When ocean waves propagate over the sea floor,dynamic wave pressures and bottom shear stresses exert on the surface of seabed.The bottom shear stresses provide a horizontal loading in the wave-seabed interaction system,while dynamic wave pressures provide a vertical loading in the system.However,the bottom shear stresses have been ignored in most previous studies in the past.In this study,the effects of the bottom shear stresses on the dynamic response in a seabed of finite thickness under wave loading will be examined,based on Biot＇s dynamic poro-elastic theory.In the model,an ＂u-p＂ approximation will be adopted instead of quasi-static model that have been used in most previous studies.Numerical results indicate that the bottom shear stresses has certain influences on the wave-induced seabed dynamic response.Furthermore,wave and soil characteristics have considerable influences on the relative difference of seabed response between the previous model（without shear stresses） and the present model（with shear stresses）.As shown in the parametric study,the relative differences between two models could up to 10% of p0,depending on the amplitude of bottom shear stresses.展开更多
A three-dimensional suspended sediment model （SED） developed by the present authors is coupled with the combinatorial model of COHERENS （Luyten et al., 1999） （the three-dimensional coupled hydrodynamical-ecologic...A three-dimensional suspended sediment model （SED） developed by the present authors is coupled with the combinatorial model of COHERENS （Luyten et al., 1999） （the three-dimensional coupled hydrodynamical-ecological model for Regional and Shelf Seas） and SWAN （Holthuijsen et al., 2004） （the third generation wave model）. SWAN is regarded as a subroutine of COHERENS and gets time- and space-varying current velocity and surface elevation from COHERENS. COHERENS gets time- and space- varying wave relevant parameters provided by SWAN. Effects of wave on current are applied in bottom shear stress, wave-induced depth-dependent radiation stress and surface drag coefficient calculation. At the same time, the damping function of suspended sediment on turbulence is introduced into COHERENS. So the sediment model SED has feedback on circulation model COHERENS. The SED obtains current associated parameters from COHERENS. Then a coupled hydrodynamic-sediment model COHERENS-SED being able to account for interaction between wave and current is obtained. COHERENS-SED is adopted to simulate three-dimensional suspended sediment transport in the Huanghe River delta. In terms of simulation results, there is obvious difference between top and bottom layer of wave-induced longshore current. The values of time series of sediment concentration gotten by COHERENS-SED have, generally, an accepted agreement extent with measurement. Significant wave heights and wave periods obtained by COHERENS-SED show that wave simulation case with currentts effect can give better agreement extent with measurement than case without current＇s effect. In the meantime, suspended sediment concentration distributing rule obtained by COHERENS-SED is similar to former researches and measurement.展开更多
Three dimensional wave-induced mixing plays an important role in shallow water area. A quite direct approach through the Reynolds average upon characteristic length scale is proposed to parameterize the horizontal and...Three dimensional wave-induced mixing plays an important role in shallow water area. A quite direct approach through the Reynolds average upon characteristic length scale is proposed to parameterize the horizontal and vertical shallow water mixing. Comparison of finite depth case with infinite depth results indicates that the difference of the wave-induced mixing strength is evident. In the shallow water condition, the infinite water depth approximation overestimates the mixing strength in the lower layers. The nonzero horizontal wave-induced mixing presents anisotropic property near the shore. The Prandtl＇s mixing length theory underestimated the wave-induced mixing in the previous studies.展开更多
Vertical wave-induced mixing parameter Bv expressed in wave number spectrum was estimated in the Yellow Sea. The spatial distributions of Bv averaged over upper 20 m in 4 seasons were analyzed. It is the strongest in ...Vertical wave-induced mixing parameter Bv expressed in wave number spectrum was estimated in the Yellow Sea. The spatial distributions of Bv averaged over upper 20 m in 4 seasons were analyzed. It is the strongest in winter because of winter monsoon, and the weakest in spring. Since in summer it plays an important role for circulation of upper layers, its vertical structure was also discussed. Two simulations with and without wave-induced mixing in this season were performed to evaluate its effect on temperature distribution. Numerical results indicate that wave-induced mixing could increase the mixed layer thickness greatly.展开更多
Both the level 2.5 Mellor-Yamada turbulence closure scheme （MY） and K-profile parameterization （KPP） are popularly used by the ocean modeling community. The MY and the KPP are improved through including the non-br...Both the level 2.5 Mellor-Yamada turbulence closure scheme （MY） and K-profile parameterization （KPP） are popularly used by the ocean modeling community. The MY and the KPP are improved through including the non-breaking surface wave-induced vertical mixing （Bv）, and the improved schemes were tested by using continuous data at the Papa ocean weather station （OWS） during 1961-1965. The numerical results showed that the Bv can make the temperature simulations fit much better with the continuous data from Papa Sta- tion. The two improved schemes overcame the shortcomings of predicting too shallow upper mixed layer depth and consequently overheated sea surface temperature during summertime, which are in fact com- mon problems for all turbulence closure models. Statistical analysis showed that the Bv effectively reduced the mean absolute error and root mean square error of the upper layer temperature and increased the corre- lation coefficient between simulation and the observation. Furthermore, the performance of vertical mixing induced by shear instability and the Bv is also compared. Both the temperature structure and its seasonal cycle significantly improved by including the Bv, regardless of whether shear instability was included or not, especially for the KPP mixing scheme, which suggested that Bv played a dominant role in the upper ocean where the mean current was relatively weak, such as at Papa Station. These results may provide a clue to improve ocean circulation models.展开更多
Prediction of coastal sediment transport is of particularly importance for analyzing coast erosion accurately and solving the corresponding coast protection engineering problems.The present study provided a numerical ...Prediction of coastal sediment transport is of particularly importance for analyzing coast erosion accurately and solving the corresponding coast protection engineering problems.The present study provided a numerical scheme for sediment transport in coastal waves and wave-induced currents.In the scheme,the sand transport model was implemented with wave refraction-diffraction model and near-shore current model.Coastal water wave was simulated by using the parabolic mild-slope equation in which wave refraction,diffraction and breaking effects are considered.Wave-induced current was simulated by using the nonlinear shallow water equations in which wave provides radiation stresses for driving current.Then,sediment transport in waves and wave-induced currents was simulated by using the two-dimensional suspended sediment transport equations for suspended sediment and the bed-load transport equation for bed load.The numerical scheme was validated by experiment results from the Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility at the US Army Corps of Engineer Research and Development Center in Vicksburg.The numerical results showed that the present scheme is an effective tool for modeling coastal sediment transport in waves and near-shore currents.展开更多
The distributions of the wave-induced radiation stress tensor over depth are studied by us- ing the linear wave theory, which are divided into three regions, i. e., above the mean water level, be- low the wave trough ...The distributions of the wave-induced radiation stress tensor over depth are studied by us- ing the linear wave theory, which are divided into three regions, i. e., above the mean water level, be- low the wave trough level, and between these two levels. The computational expressions of the wave-in- duced radiation stress tensor at the arbitrary wave angle are established by means of the Eulerian coordi- nate transformation, and the asymptotic forms for deep and shallow water are also presented. The verti- cal variations of a 30°incident wave-induced radiation stress tensor in deep water, intermediate water and shallow water are calculated respectively. The following conclusions are obtained from computations. The wave-induced radiation stress tensor below the wave trough level is induced by the water wave parti- cle velocities only, whereas both the water wave particle velocities and the wave pressure contribute to the tensor above the wave trough level. The vertical variations of the wave-induced radiation stress ten- sor are influenced substantially by the velocity component in the direction of wave propagation. The dis- tributions of the wave-induced radiation stress tensor over depth are nonuiniform and the proportion of the tensor below the wave trough level becomes considerable in the shallow water. From the water surface to the seabed, the reversed variations occur for the predominant tensor components.展开更多
Researches on breaking-induced currents by waves are summarized firstly in this paper. Then, a combined numerical model in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates is presented to simulate wave-induced current in areas with...Researches on breaking-induced currents by waves are summarized firstly in this paper. Then, a combined numerical model in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates is presented to simulate wave-induced current in areas with curved boundary or irregular coastline. The proposed wave-induced current model includes a nearshore current module established through orthogonal curvilinear transformation form of shallow water equations and a wave module based on the curvilinear parabolic approximation wave equation. The wave module actually serves as the driving force to provide the current module with required radiation stresses. The Crank-Nicolson finite difference scheme and the alternating directions implicit method are used to solve the wave and current module, respectively. The established surf zone currents model is validated by two numerical experiments about longshore currents and rip currents in basins with rip channel and breakwater. The numerical results are compared with the measured data and published numerical results.展开更多
The ship motions and wave-induced loads of a new type of river-to-sea ship are investigated experimentally and numerically. A river-to-sea ship is an unconventional type of container ship characterized by high breadth...The ship motions and wave-induced loads of a new type of river-to-sea ship are investigated experimentally and numerically. A river-to-sea ship is an unconventional type of container ship characterized by high breadth to draft ratio and low length to breadth ratio, which makes it more prone to hydroelasticity than conventional ships of the same size. A segmented model was tested under two loading conditions, namely, ballast and loaded conditions, to determine the vertical motions and wave-induced loads under each condition. Results are compared with numerical simulations in the frequency domain. The wave-induced responses are calculated by a nonlinear time domain code at each time step. The response amplitude operators of vertical ship responses in regular waves are analyzed, and the wave-induced responses are consistent with the experimental results.展开更多
The influence of the nonbreaking surface wave-induced mixing under the mixed layer on the oceanic cir- culation was investigated using an isopycnal-coordinate oceanic circulation model. The effect of the wave- induced...The influence of the nonbreaking surface wave-induced mixing under the mixed layer on the oceanic cir- culation was investigated using an isopycnal-coordinate oceanic circulation model. The effect of the wave- induced mixing within the mixed layer was eliminated via a bulk mixed layer model. The results show that the wave-induced mixing can penetrate through the mixed layer and into the oceanic interior. The wave- induced mixing under the mixed layer has an important effect on the distribution of temperature of the upper ocean at middle and high latitudes in summer, especially the structure of the seasonal thermocline. Moreover, the wave-induced mixing can affect the oceanic circulation, such as western boundary currents and the North Equatorial Currents through changes of sea surface height associated with the variation of the thermal structure of the upper ocean.展开更多
In this paper, the water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obak6y coastal water which is located at the Mediterranean coast of Turkey were numerically studied. The numerical model is based on the parabolic ...In this paper, the water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obak6y coastal water which is located at the Mediterranean coast of Turkey were numerically studied. The numerical model is based on the parabolic mild-slope equation for coastal water waves and the nonlinear shallow water equation for the wave-induced currents. The wave transformation under the effects of shoaling, refraction, diffraction and breaking is considered, and the wave provides radiation stresses for driving currents in the model. The numerical results for the water wave-induced longshore currents were validated by the measured data to demonstrate the efficiency of the numerical model. Then the water waves and longshore currents induced by the waves from main directions were numerically simulated and analyzed based on the numerical results. The numerical results show that the movement of the longshore currents was different while the wave proDaRated to a coastal zone from different directions.展开更多
基金supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.42276001)2024 Qinhuangdao Social Science Development Research Project(Grant No.2024LX206)Hebei Agricultural University Research Project for Talented scholars(Grant No.YJ201835).
文摘Research has shown considerable variability in whitecap coverage(W)under low to moderate wind conditions.During an expedition to the Northwestern Pacific,oceanographic variables and photographic measurements were collected to investigate the influence of wave-induced stress on W within these wind ranges.The friction velocity was recalculated based on turbulent stress,and wind profiles were modified to account for wave-induced stress and swell presence on the sea surface.The study examined W’s relationship with multiple parameters,including friction velocity(u*),breaking wave Reynolds numbers,wavesea Reynolds numbers,and wave age.The analysis utilized both conventional u*and turbulent stress-based friction velocity(u*turb).When utilizing u*turb rather than u*,the estimation model’s fitting results revealed an increase in correlation coefficient(R2)from 0.51 to 0.62,and a decrease in root mean square error(RMSE)from 0.0652 to 0.0574.Additionally,when parameterizing W using the windsea Reynolds number,with u_(*turb) replacing u*and wind wave height substituting mixed wave height,the R^(2) increased from 0.38 to 0.53,and the RMSE decreased from 0.0737 to 0.0668.The results demonstrate that calculating u*using the turbulent stress-based method,along with wind wave height and peak wave speed of mixed waves,yields stronger correlation with W.This correlation improvement stems from the inhibition of wave breaking by swell and wave-induced stress.The integration of turbulent stress and wind wave field measurements enhances the understanding of relationships between W and various parameters.However,swell effects on wind profiles do not substantially affect W estimation using wind speed-related parameters.
基金The National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract No. 42274159the Project supported by Key Laboratory of Space Ocean Remote Sensing and Application,MNR under contract No.2023CFO016。
文摘The research on ocean dynamics information plays a crucial role in understanding ocean phenomena, assessing marine environmental impacts, and guiding engineering designs. The Doppler information observed by radars reflects sea surface dynamics, to which ocean waves make important contributions. Low-incidence-angle real aperture radar(RAR)demonstrates great potential for independently observing vectorial Doppler information on the ocean surface. To systematically characterize and accurately estimate the wave-induced Doppler frequency shift(WVF) from lowincidence-angle RAR, this study conducts comprehensive influencing factor analysis and establishes sea-stateparameterized WVF models. First, a simulated WVF dataset is generated under a rotating low-incidence-angle RAR.The feature parameters of WVF are then determined by analysing contributing factors including wind waves, swells,and sea state parameters. Furthermore, two WVF models(WVF_Ku P9 with 9 inputs and WVF_Ku P4 with 4 inputs) are constructed by the Transformer encoder for different application scenarios. Both models achieve high accuracy for WVF estimation with root mean square errors(RMSE) of 1.874 Hz and 2.716 Hz, respectively. The reliability and superiority of the proposed models are validated through comparisons with the Ka DOP, which is a typical geophysical model function(GMF). The findings in this paper advance the understanding of WVF characteristics and generation mechanisms. The proposed estimation models can provide reliable estimates, offering critical references for lowincidence-angle RAR applications such as ocean surface current retrieval.
基金sponsorship of the National Natural Science Foundation of China (U24B2020,42174139)。
文摘The wave-induced fluid flow(WIFF) occurring in the ubiquitous layered porous media(e.g.,shales)usually causes the appreciable seismic energy dissipation,which further leads to the frequency dependence of wave velocity(i.e.,dispersion) and elastic anisotropy parameters.The relevant knowledge is of great importance for geofluid discrimination and hydrocarbon exploration in the porous shale reservoirs.We derive the wave equations for a periodic layered transversely isotropy medium with a vertical axis of symmetry(VTI) concurrently with the annular cracks(PLPC medium) based on the periodic-layered model and anisotropic Biot's theory,which simultaneously incorporate the effects of microscopic squirt fluid flow,mesoscopic interlayer fluid flow and macroscopic global fluid flow.Notably,the microscopic squirt shorten fluid flow emerges between the annular-shaped cracks and stiff pores,which generates one attenuation peak.Specifically,we first establish the stress-strain relationship and pore fluid pressure in a PLPC medium,and then use them to derive the wave equations by means of the Newton's second law.The plane analysis is implemented on the wave equations to yield the analytic solutions for phase velocities and attenuation factors of four waves,namely,fast P-wave,slow P-wave,SV-wave and SH-wave,and the anisotropy parameters can be therefore computed.Simulation results show that P-wave velocity have three attenuation peaks throughout the full frequency band,which respectively correspond to the influences of interlayer flow,the squirt flow and the Biot flow.Through the results of seismic velocity dispersion and attenuation at different incident angles,we find that the WIFF mechanism also has a significant impact on the dispersion characteristics of elastic anisotropy parameters within the low-mid frequency band.Moreover,it is shown that several poroelastic parameters,such as layer thickness ratio,crack aspect ratio and crack density have notable influence on seismic dispersion and attenuation.We compare the proposed modeled velocities with that given by the existing theory to confirm its validity.Our formulas and result can provide a better understanding of wave propagation in PLPC medium by considering the unified impacts of micro-,meso-and macro-scale WIFF mechanisms,which potentially lays a theoretical basis of rock physics for seismic interpretation.
基金supported by the Laoshan Laboratory(No.LSKJ202201600)the National Key Research and Development Program of China(No.2022YFC2808304).
文摘Surface waves have a considerable effect on vertical mixing in the upper ocean.In the past two decades,the vertical mixing induced through nonbreaking surface waves has been used in ocean and climate models to improve the simulation of the upper ocean.Thus far,several nonbreaking wave-induced mixing parameterization schemes have been proposed;however,no quantitative comparison has been performed among them.In this paper,a one-dimensional ocean model was used to compare the performances of five schemes,including those of Qiao et al.(Q),Hu and Wang(HW),Huang and Qiao(HQ),Pleskachevsky et al.(P),and Ghantous and Babanin(GB).Similar to previous studies,all of these schemes can decrease the simulated sea surface temperature(SST),increase the subsurface temperature,and deepen the mixed layer,thereby alleviating the common thermal deviation problem of the ocean model for upper ocean simulation.Among these schemes,the HQ scheme exhibited the weakest wave-induced mixing effect,and the HW scheme exhibited the strongest effect;the other three schemes exhibited roughly the same effect.In particular,the Q and P schemes exhibited nearly the same effect.In the simulation based on observations from the Ocean Weather Station Papa,the HQ scheme exhibited the best performance,followed by the Q scheme.In the experiment with the HQ scheme,the root-mean-square deviation of the simulated SST from the observations was 0.43℃,and the mixed layer depth(MLD)was 2.0 m.As a contrast,the deviations of the SST and MLD reached 1.25℃ and 8.4 m,respectively,in the experiment without wave-induced mixing.
基金The"973"Project of China under contract No. 2010CB950300the Project of the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos 40730842 and 41005032the Scientific Research Foundation of the First Institute of Oceanography, State Oceanic Administration of China under contrat No. 2011T02
文摘The previous studies by the MASNUM research team have shown the effectiveness of the wave- induced mixing （By） in improving the simulation of upper-ocean thermal structure. The mech- anisms of Bv are further investigated by incorporating different Bv products into the MASNUM wave-circulation coupled model. First, experiments were designed to explore the effects of By, which contain the contributions at different wave lengths （l）. The results of three experiments, the non-By case, the short-wave case （l 〈300 m）, and the long-wave case （l 〉300 m） are compared, and it is found that the long waves are the most important component for By to generate mixing in the upper ocean. As the swell plays dominant role in mixing, the parameterization of Bv into wind may be not a proper way. Second, Bv effects at different time-scales, including daily and monthly, were examined. The results show that the monthly averaged By has larger impact than the daily averaged Bv, especially in summer.
文摘The long-shore current distribution on a mild slope beach is studied by combining the numerical model and the physical experiment. The experiments of long-shore currents under the action of regular and irregular waves are conducted on mild beaches with different slopes in a wave basin. A numerical model is established, which includes a wave propagation model, a wave breaking model and a long-shore current model. The validity of the numerical model is proved by the comparison of its results with the results of the experimental model. It is concluded that the wave-ioduced long-shore current is influenced significantly by the incident wave height, the wave angle and the beach slope. Its application to the Bohai Bay indicates that the wave-induced currents have the same order of magnitude as the tide currents in the near-shore zone of mill slope beach. In the design of wastewater ouffall locations on a mild-slope beach with shallow water of the Bohai Bay, the position of the outfall should be 10 km away from the shoreline, which is outside of the surf-zone.
基金supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.50509007)the Program for New Century Excellent Talents in University of China(Grant No.NCET-07-0255)
文摘A quasi three-dimensional numerical model of wave-driven coastal currents with the effects of surface rollers is developed for the study of the spatial lag between the location of the maximum wave-induced current and the wave breaking point. The governing equations are derived from Navier-Stokes equations and solved by the hybrid method combining the fractional step finite different method in the horizontal plane with a Galerkin finite element method in the vertical direc- tion. The surface rollers effects are considered through incorporating the creation and evolution of the roller area into the free surface shear stress. An energy equation facilitates the computation process which transfers the wave breaking energy dissipation to the surface roller energy. The wave driver model is a phase-averaged wave model based on the wave action balance equation. Two sets of laboratory experiments producing breaking waves that generated longshore currents on a planar beach am used to evaluate the model＇s performance. The present wave-driven coastal current model with the roller effect in the surface shear stress term can produce satisfactory results by increasing the wave-induced nearshore current velocity inside the surf zone and shifting the location of the maximum longshore current velocity landward.
基金This work was supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China under the contract Nos 10372089 and 40476032.
文摘Cyclic triaxial tests and numerical analyses were undertaken, in order to evaluate the wave-induced pore water pressure in seabed sediments in the Hangzhou Bay. The cyclic triaxial tests indicate that the rate of pore water pressure generation in cohesive soils decreases with time, and the development of the pore water pressure can be represented by a hyperbolic curve. Numerical analyses, taking into account the generation and dissipation of pore water pressure simultaneously, suggest that the pore water pressure buildup in cohesive soils may increase with time continuously until the pore water pressure ratio approaches to 1, or it may decrease after a certain time, which is controlled by drain conditions. These phenomena are different from those in sands. For waves with a retum period of 100 a in the Hangzhou Bay, if the wave duration is more than 60 h, then the pore water pressure ratio will be close to 1 and soil fabric failure will take place.
文摘The effects of water depth on the wave-induced vertical bending moment and shearing force on a very large FPSO are studied by experiments and computations for regular and irregular waves. The restricted water depth composite Green function is employed to develop a program for the computation of the hydrodynamic coefficients of the very large FPSO at shallow water. A three-segment model with 1∶100 scale is tested in the State Key Laboratory of Ocean Engineering at Shanghai Jiao Tong University for the verification of the numerical method. The experimental and computational results show that the water depth has a substantial effect on wave-induced loads. The wave-induced vertical loads increase with the decrease of water depth for shallow water. Especially, for ultra-shallow water these loads increase very evidently with the decrease of water depth. The long-term prediction values of wave-induced vertical loads increase with the decrease of the ratio of water depth to draught. The long-term prediction values of wave-induced vertical loads are about 8% larger than those for deep water when the ratio of water depth to draught is 3.0. However, water depth hardly affects the long-term prediction values of wave-induced loads when the ratio of water depth to draught is larger than 5.0.
基金supported by State Key Laboratory of Ocean Engineering Self-Development (GKZD010053-3) and EPSRC (EP/G006482/1)
文摘When ocean waves propagate over the sea floor,dynamic wave pressures and bottom shear stresses exert on the surface of seabed.The bottom shear stresses provide a horizontal loading in the wave-seabed interaction system,while dynamic wave pressures provide a vertical loading in the system.However,the bottom shear stresses have been ignored in most previous studies in the past.In this study,the effects of the bottom shear stresses on the dynamic response in a seabed of finite thickness under wave loading will be examined,based on Biot＇s dynamic poro-elastic theory.In the model,an ＂u-p＂ approximation will be adopted instead of quasi-static model that have been used in most previous studies.Numerical results indicate that the bottom shear stresses has certain influences on the wave-induced seabed dynamic response.Furthermore,wave and soil characteristics have considerable influences on the relative difference of seabed response between the previous model（without shear stresses） and the present model（with shear stresses）.As shown in the parametric study,the relative differences between two models could up to 10% of p0,depending on the amplitude of bottom shear stresses.
基金supported by 973 Project "Land-Sea interaction and its effect on the environment in the typical estuaries and offishore areas of China" under contract No. 2002CB412408Natural Science Foundation of Shandong Provinceunder contract No. Q2007E05
文摘A three-dimensional suspended sediment model （SED） developed by the present authors is coupled with the combinatorial model of COHERENS （Luyten et al., 1999） （the three-dimensional coupled hydrodynamical-ecological model for Regional and Shelf Seas） and SWAN （Holthuijsen et al., 2004） （the third generation wave model）. SWAN is regarded as a subroutine of COHERENS and gets time- and space-varying current velocity and surface elevation from COHERENS. COHERENS gets time- and space- varying wave relevant parameters provided by SWAN. Effects of wave on current are applied in bottom shear stress, wave-induced depth-dependent radiation stress and surface drag coefficient calculation. At the same time, the damping function of suspended sediment on turbulence is introduced into COHERENS. So the sediment model SED has feedback on circulation model COHERENS. The SED obtains current associated parameters from COHERENS. Then a coupled hydrodynamic-sediment model COHERENS-SED being able to account for interaction between wave and current is obtained. COHERENS-SED is adopted to simulate three-dimensional suspended sediment transport in the Huanghe River delta. In terms of simulation results, there is obvious difference between top and bottom layer of wave-induced longshore current. The values of time series of sediment concentration gotten by COHERENS-SED have, generally, an accepted agreement extent with measurement. Significant wave heights and wave periods obtained by COHERENS-SED show that wave simulation case with currentts effect can give better agreement extent with measurement than case without current＇s effect. In the meantime, suspended sediment concentration distributing rule obtained by COHERENS-SED is similar to former researches and measurement.
基金supported by the national young scientist fund of China under contract under contract No 40206003special fund for fundamental scientific research under contract (No 2007G15)
文摘Three dimensional wave-induced mixing plays an important role in shallow water area. A quite direct approach through the Reynolds average upon characteristic length scale is proposed to parameterize the horizontal and vertical shallow water mixing. Comparison of finite depth case with infinite depth results indicates that the difference of the wave-induced mixing strength is evident. In the shallow water condition, the infinite water depth approximation overestimates the mixing strength in the lower layers. The nonzero horizontal wave-induced mixing presents anisotropic property near the shore. The Prandtl＇s mixing length theory underestimated the wave-induced mixing in the previous studies.
文摘Vertical wave-induced mixing parameter Bv expressed in wave number spectrum was estimated in the Yellow Sea. The spatial distributions of Bv averaged over upper 20 m in 4 seasons were analyzed. It is the strongest in winter because of winter monsoon, and the weakest in spring. Since in summer it plays an important role for circulation of upper layers, its vertical structure was also discussed. Two simulations with and without wave-induced mixing in this season were performed to evaluate its effect on temperature distribution. Numerical results indicate that wave-induced mixing could increase the mixed layer thickness greatly.
基金The National Basic Research Program("973"Program)of China under contract No.2010CB950303the Public Science and Technology Research Funds Projects of Ocean under contract No.201105019the National Key Technology Research and Development Program of China under contract No.2011BAC03B02
文摘Both the level 2.5 Mellor-Yamada turbulence closure scheme （MY） and K-profile parameterization （KPP） are popularly used by the ocean modeling community. The MY and the KPP are improved through including the non-breaking surface wave-induced vertical mixing （Bv）, and the improved schemes were tested by using continuous data at the Papa ocean weather station （OWS） during 1961-1965. The numerical results showed that the Bv can make the temperature simulations fit much better with the continuous data from Papa Sta- tion. The two improved schemes overcame the shortcomings of predicting too shallow upper mixed layer depth and consequently overheated sea surface temperature during summertime, which are in fact com- mon problems for all turbulence closure models. Statistical analysis showed that the Bv effectively reduced the mean absolute error and root mean square error of the upper layer temperature and increased the corre- lation coefficient between simulation and the observation. Furthermore, the performance of vertical mixing induced by shear instability and the Bv is also compared. Both the temperature structure and its seasonal cycle significantly improved by including the Bv, regardless of whether shear instability was included or not, especially for the KPP mixing scheme, which suggested that Bv played a dominant role in the upper ocean where the mean current was relatively weak, such as at Papa Station. These results may provide a clue to improve ocean circulation models.
基金The National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos 51579036 and 51579030the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities of China under contract No.DUT14YQ10
文摘Prediction of coastal sediment transport is of particularly importance for analyzing coast erosion accurately and solving the corresponding coast protection engineering problems.The present study provided a numerical scheme for sediment transport in coastal waves and wave-induced currents.In the scheme,the sand transport model was implemented with wave refraction-diffraction model and near-shore current model.Coastal water wave was simulated by using the parabolic mild-slope equation in which wave refraction,diffraction and breaking effects are considered.Wave-induced current was simulated by using the nonlinear shallow water equations in which wave provides radiation stresses for driving current.Then,sediment transport in waves and wave-induced currents was simulated by using the two-dimensional suspended sediment transport equations for suspended sediment and the bed-load transport equation for bed load.The numerical scheme was validated by experiment results from the Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility at the US Army Corps of Engineer Research and Development Center in Vicksburg.The numerical results showed that the present scheme is an effective tool for modeling coastal sediment transport in waves and near-shore currents.
基金The project was supported by the Research Fund for the Doctoral Program of Higher Education of China under contractNo. 9802940
文摘The distributions of the wave-induced radiation stress tensor over depth are studied by us- ing the linear wave theory, which are divided into three regions, i. e., above the mean water level, be- low the wave trough level, and between these two levels. The computational expressions of the wave-in- duced radiation stress tensor at the arbitrary wave angle are established by means of the Eulerian coordi- nate transformation, and the asymptotic forms for deep and shallow water are also presented. The verti- cal variations of a 30°incident wave-induced radiation stress tensor in deep water, intermediate water and shallow water are calculated respectively. The following conclusions are obtained from computations. The wave-induced radiation stress tensor below the wave trough level is induced by the water wave parti- cle velocities only, whereas both the water wave particle velocities and the wave pressure contribute to the tensor above the wave trough level. The vertical variations of the wave-induced radiation stress ten- sor are influenced substantially by the velocity component in the direction of wave propagation. The dis- tributions of the wave-induced radiation stress tensor over depth are nonuiniform and the proportion of the tensor below the wave trough level becomes considerable in the shallow water. From the water surface to the seabed, the reversed variations occur for the predominant tensor components.
基金supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant Nos. 50839001 and 50979036)
文摘Researches on breaking-induced currents by waves are summarized firstly in this paper. Then, a combined numerical model in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates is presented to simulate wave-induced current in areas with curved boundary or irregular coastline. The proposed wave-induced current model includes a nearshore current module established through orthogonal curvilinear transformation form of shallow water equations and a wave module based on the curvilinear parabolic approximation wave equation. The wave module actually serves as the driving force to provide the current module with required radiation stresses. The Crank-Nicolson finite difference scheme and the alternating directions implicit method are used to solve the wave and current module, respectively. The established surf zone currents model is validated by two numerical experiments about longshore currents and rip currents in basins with rip channel and breakwater. The numerical results are compared with the measured data and published numerical results.
文摘The ship motions and wave-induced loads of a new type of river-to-sea ship are investigated experimentally and numerically. A river-to-sea ship is an unconventional type of container ship characterized by high breadth to draft ratio and low length to breadth ratio, which makes it more prone to hydroelasticity than conventional ships of the same size. A segmented model was tested under two loading conditions, namely, ballast and loaded conditions, to determine the vertical motions and wave-induced loads under each condition. Results are compared with numerical simulations in the frequency domain. The wave-induced responses are calculated by a nonlinear time domain code at each time step. The response amplitude operators of vertical ship responses in regular waves are analyzed, and the wave-induced responses are consistent with the experimental results.
基金Basic Scientific Funds for National Public Research Institues of China under contract No.GY02-2009G24Public Science and Technology Research Funds Projects of Ocean under contract No.201105019the Sino-US International Cooperation Project under contract No.S2011GR0348
文摘The influence of the nonbreaking surface wave-induced mixing under the mixed layer on the oceanic cir- culation was investigated using an isopycnal-coordinate oceanic circulation model. The effect of the wave- induced mixing within the mixed layer was eliminated via a bulk mixed layer model. The results show that the wave-induced mixing can penetrate through the mixed layer and into the oceanic interior. The wave- induced mixing under the mixed layer has an important effect on the distribution of temperature of the upper ocean at middle and high latitudes in summer, especially the structure of the seasonal thermocline. Moreover, the wave-induced mixing can affect the oceanic circulation, such as western boundary currents and the North Equatorial Currents through changes of sea surface height associated with the variation of the thermal structure of the upper ocean.
基金The National Basic Research Program of China under contract No.2013CB430403the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract No.51179025+1 种基金the Open Foundation of State Key Laboratory of Hydrology-Water Resources and Hydraulic Engineering under contract No.2013491511the Open Foundation of State Key Laboratory of Ocean Engineering under contract No.1305
文摘In this paper, the water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obak6y coastal water which is located at the Mediterranean coast of Turkey were numerically studied. The numerical model is based on the parabolic mild-slope equation for coastal water waves and the nonlinear shallow water equation for the wave-induced currents. The wave transformation under the effects of shoaling, refraction, diffraction and breaking is considered, and the wave provides radiation stresses for driving currents in the model. The numerical results for the water wave-induced longshore currents were validated by the measured data to demonstrate the efficiency of the numerical model. Then the water waves and longshore currents induced by the waves from main directions were numerically simulated and analyzed based on the numerical results. The numerical results show that the movement of the longshore currents was different while the wave proDaRated to a coastal zone from different directions.
