This paper explores the phenomenon of fluid resonance occurring within a narrow gap between a vessel and a vertical wharf, taking ships berthing in front of a gravity wharf as the research background. Using the open-s...This paper explores the phenomenon of fluid resonance occurring within a narrow gap between a vessel and a vertical wharf, taking ships berthing in front of a gravity wharf as the research background. Using the open-source software Open FOAM~?, a two-dimensional viscous-flow numerical wave flume was developed to simulate the fluid resonant motions induced by transient focused wave groups with different spectral peak periods and wave amplitudes. The results indicate that for all the incident focused wave amplitudes considered, the amplitudes of the free surface elevation in the gap, horizontal wave force and moment all exhibit a bimodal variation trend with increasing spectral peak period. The peak values of the above amplitude-period curve appear near the resonant period of the first and second harmonic components of the free surface elevation. However, the variation in the vertical wave force versus the spectral peak period presents different patterns. In addition, the first-to fourth-order harmonic components in the wave surface and forces are further examined via the four-phase combination method. The results show that the first-to secondorder harmonic components play a dominant role in the overall amplitude.展开更多
Real waves are multidirectional waves. In the present study, the calculation method for the wave maker driving signals for generating multidirectional wave groups in physical wave basin is proposed. Its validity is fi...Real waves are multidirectional waves. In the present study, the calculation method for the wave maker driving signals for generating multidirectional wave groups in physical wave basin is proposed. Its validity is first confirmed by a numerical model for which the incident boundary condition is determined by use of the proposed method. Then, the physical simulation of multidirectional wave groups is performed in laboratory wave basin. The experimental results show that multidirectional waves with expected wave groupiness, which includes not only its group height but also its group length, can be satisfactorily zenerated at the soecified oosition in the tphvsical wave basin.展开更多
The physical simulation method of wave groups in a wave flume is proposed and verified by the exper- iments. The experimental results demonstrate that random waves with desired wave groupiness, which simultaneously in...The physical simulation method of wave groups in a wave flume is proposed and verified by the exper- iments. The experimental results demonstrate that random waves with desired wave groupiness, which simultaneously includes the wave group height and length, can be generated satisfactorily at the specified position in a wave flume using the proposed method. Furthermore, the transformation properties of the wave groupiness along the fiat-bottomed wave flume are investigated based on the physically simulated waves. Associated proposals with the physical simulation of wave groups are given.展开更多
The new distributions of the statistics of wave groups based on the maximum entropy principle are presented. The maximum entropy distributions appear to be superior to conventional distributions when applied to a limi...The new distributions of the statistics of wave groups based on the maximum entropy principle are presented. The maximum entropy distributions appear to be superior to conventional distributions when applied to a limited amount of information. Its applications to the wave group properties show the effectiveness of the maximum entropy distribution. FFF filtering method is employed to obtain the wave envelope fast and efficiently. Comparisons of both the maximum entropy distribution and the distribution of Longuet-Higgins （1984） with the laboratory wind-wave data show that the former gives a better fit.展开更多
Based on field wave data, an empirical formula of wave envelope spectrum is given in this paper. Then the methods of both numerical and physical simulation of sea wave groups with the given spectrum and groupiness par...Based on field wave data, an empirical formula of wave envelope spectrum is given in this paper. Then the methods of both numerical and physical simulation of sea wave groups with the given spectrum and groupiness parameters are suggested.展开更多
Wave group is important in ocean wave theory and applications. In the past, nonlinear interaction among wave groups has been studied on the basis of the nonlinear Sehrrdinger equation. Using this theoretical approach,...Wave group is important in ocean wave theory and applications. In the past, nonlinear interaction among wave groups has been studied on the basis of the nonlinear Sehrrdinger equation. Using this theoretical approach, we found that the nonlinear interaction among wave groups causes asymmetry in the shape of the wave envelope （steeper in the front of the curve of the envelope）. An important consequence of this asymmetry is that the highest wave in a wave group appears one individual wave length ahead of the center of the wave group. Further results show that the degree of envelope asymmetry increases with increasing spectral width and the wave steepness. This theoretical analysis has been supplemented by a systematic experimental study of wind waves. Laboratory and some open sea wave data were analyzed. The results show that the shape of the wind wave envelope of wind waves has the same asymmetry predicted by the theoretical approach. The observed degree of deformation of the envelope also increases with increasing spectral width and the wave steepness as predicted by theory. These conclusions have important ramifications for practical applications of ocean wave theory.展开更多
-The effect of wave group on wave run-up on a slope dike is mainly discussed in this paper. Two simulating methods of wave group and their applications in laboratory are introduced. Synthesizing the research results o...-The effect of wave group on wave run-up on a slope dike is mainly discussed in this paper. Two simulating methods of wave group and their applications in laboratory are introduced. Synthesizing the research results of wave run-up on a slope dike, the effect of wave group on wave run-up on a slope dike in coastal protection engineering is studied as the main point.展开更多
Coupled dynamic analysis of the Deep Draft Multi-Spar （DDMS） platform and the mooring system under the action of waves and current is carried out in the time domain. Using a geometrically nonlinear finite element me...Coupled dynamic analysis of the Deep Draft Multi-Spar （DDMS） platform and the mooring system under the action of waves and current is carried out in the time domain. Using a geometrically nonlinear finite element method, the mooring-line dynamics is simulated based on the total Lagrangian formulation. Wave groups are obtained by the JONSWAP spectrum and an empirical wave envelope spectrum involving two envelope-based factors Group Height Factor （GFH） and Group Length Factor （GLF）. The results show that the wave groups have a significant effect on the motion responses of the platform and the mooring line tensions.展开更多
The evolution of the nonlinear wave groups in deep water is investigated through laboratory measurements and numerical analysis.Laboratory experiments are conducted in deep-water wave tank,focusing on the characterist...The evolution of the nonlinear wave groups in deep water is investigated through laboratory measurements and numerical analysis.Laboratory experiments are conducted in deep-water wave tank,focusing on the characteristics of breaking waves arising from the evolved wave train.Some quantitative results are obtained for the significant breaking wave train,including the surface elevation time series,the local geometry,and the energy dissipation.A nonlinear model for the evolution of the wave groups in deep water is developed by adding eddy viscosity dissipation terms in the High Level Irrotational Green-Naghdi(HLIGN)equations.The results of the simulation are compared with the laboratory measurements,and good agreement is observed for the evolved wave train.展开更多
Long time series of wave field are experimentally simulated by JONSWAP spectra with random phases in a 2D wave flume. Statistic properties of wave surface, such as significant wave height, skewness and kurtosis, are a...Long time series of wave field are experimentally simulated by JONSWAP spectra with random phases in a 2D wave flume. Statistic properties of wave surface, such as significant wave height, skewness and kurtosis, are analyzed, and the freak wave occurrence probability and its relations with Benjamin-Feir index （BFI） are also investigated. The results show that the skewness and the kurtosis are significantly dependent on the wave steepness, and the kurtosis increases along the flume when BFI is large. The freak waves are observed in random wave groups. They occur more frequently than expected, especially for the wave groups with large BFI.展开更多
Various types of wave group solutions of the weakly nonlinear waves may exist over uneven bottoms. In this paper, the variation of the zeroes of the dispersive and nonlinear terms,and the wave group solution in the th...Various types of wave group solutions of the weakly nonlinear waves may exist over uneven bottoms. In this paper, the variation of the zeroes of the dispersive and nonlinear terms,and the wave group solution in the third-order evolution equations are described for the case of mild and locally fastvarying water depths.展开更多
Based on one-year wave field data measured at the south part of the radial sand ridges of the Southern Yellow Sea, the wave statistical characteristics, wave spectrum and wave group properties are analyzed. The result...Based on one-year wave field data measured at the south part of the radial sand ridges of the Southern Yellow Sea, the wave statistical characteristics, wave spectrum and wave group properties are analyzed. The results show that the significant wave height （H1/3） varies from 0.15 to 2.22 m with the average of 0.59 m and the mean wave period （Tmean） varies from 2.06 to 6.82 s with the average of 3.71 s. The percentage of single peak in the wave spectra is 88.6 during the measurement period, in which 36.3% of the waves are pure wind waves and the rest are young swells. The percentage with the significant wave height larger than 1 m is 12.4. The dominant wave directions in the study area are WNW, W, ESE, E and NW. The relationships among the characteristic wave heights, the characteristic wave periods, and the wave spectral parameters are identified. It is found that the tentative spectral model is suitable for the quantitative description of the wave spectrum in the study area, while the run lengths of the wave group estimated from the measured data are generally larger than those in other sea areas.展开更多
Three methods for studying wave groups and their main parameters for describing wave groupiness are reviewed in this paper. Then they are analyzed and compared combined with field data from both aspects of group heigh...Three methods for studying wave groups and their main parameters for describing wave groupiness are reviewed in this paper. Then they are analyzed and compared combined with field data from both aspects of group height and group length. A method and two parameters that can describe wave groupiness are suggested. The groupiness parameters of sea waves at three field stations are given. The effects of groupiness on both distributions of the wave height and the phase of component waves are investigated. The effects of datum length on the calculated value of grouping parameters are also discussed.展开更多
A review concerning the methods of studying and describing wave groups is presented in this paper. After analysing 78 field records collected in the Shijiu Port, China, the measured parameters of wave groups and some ...A review concerning the methods of studying and describing wave groups is presented in this paper. After analysing 78 field records collected in the Shijiu Port, China, the measured parameters of wave groups and some factors describing wave groupness and their variations are given. Moreover, these results are compared with those of theory.展开更多
Ning et al. （2015） developed a 2D fully nonlinear potential model to investigate the interaction between focused waves and uniform currents. The effects of uniform current on focusing wave crest, focal time and foca...Ning et al. （2015） developed a 2D fully nonlinear potential model to investigate the interaction between focused waves and uniform currents. The effects of uniform current on focusing wave crest, focal time and focal position were given. As its extension, harmonic energy transfer for focused waves in uniform current is studied using the proposed model by Ning et al. （2015） and Fast Fourier Transformation （FFT） technique in this study. It shows that the strong opposing currents, inducing partial wave blocking and reducing the extreme wave crest, make the nonlinear energy transfer non-reversible in the focusing and defocusing processes. The numerical results also provide an explanation to address the shifts of focal points in consideration of the combination effects of wave nonlinearity and current.展开更多
Knowledge on intermittency of wave breaking is so far limited to a few summary statistics, while the probability distribution of time interval between breaking events can provide a full view of intermittency. Based on...Knowledge on intermittency of wave breaking is so far limited to a few summary statistics, while the probability distribution of time interval between breaking events can provide a full view of intermittency. Based on a series of experiments on wind wave breaking, such probability distributions are investigated. Breaking waves within a wave group were taken as a single breaking event according to recent studies. Interval between successive wave groups with breaker is the focus of this paper. For intervals in our experiments with different fetch and wind conditions, their distributions are all skewed and weighted on small intervals. Results of Kolmogorov-Smirnov tests on time series of these intervals indicate that they all follow gamma distribution, and some are even exponential type. Average breaking-group-interval decreases with friction velocity and significant steepness until the wind is strong enough;most of them are more than 10 times the dominant wave period. Group breaking probability proposed by Babanin recently and the average number of breaking waves in wave groups are also discussed, and they are seemingly more reasonable and sensitive than traditional breaking probability defined in terms of single wave.展开更多
Single Gaussian wave groups with different initial wave steepness εand width N are produced in laboratory in finite depth to study the nonlinear evolution, the extreme events and breaking. The results show that wave ...Single Gaussian wave groups with different initial wave steepness εand width N are produced in laboratory in finite depth to study the nonlinear evolution, the extreme events and breaking. The results show that wave groups with larger εwill evolve to be several envelope solitons(short wave groups). By analyzing geometric parameters, a break in the evolution of the wave elevation and asymmetric parameters after extreme wave may be an indicator for the inception of refocus and the maximal wave moving to the middle, namely, wave down-shift occurs. The analysis of the surface elevations with HHT(Hilbert-Huang Transform), which presents the concrete local variation of energy in time and frequency can be exhibited clearly, reveals that the higher frequency components play a major role in forming the extreme event and the contribution to the nonlinearity. Instantaneous energy and frequency in the vicinity of the extreme wave are also examined locally. For spilling breakers, the energy residing in the whole wave front dissipates much more due to breaking, while the energy in the rear of wave crest loses little, and the intra-wave frequency modulation increases as focus. It illustrates that the maximal first order instantaneous frequency fand the largest crest tend to emerge at the same time after extreme wave when significant energy dissipation happens, and vice versa. In addition, it shows that there is no obvious relation of the CDN(combined degree of nonlinearity) to the wave breaking for the single Gaussian wave group in finite water depth.展开更多
Considering the high sensitivity of the nonlinear ultrasonic measurement technique and great advantages of the guided wave testing method, the use of nonlinear ultrasonic guided waves provides a promising means for ev...Considering the high sensitivity of the nonlinear ultrasonic measurement technique and great advantages of the guided wave testing method, the use of nonlinear ultrasonic guided waves provides a promising means for evaluating and characterizing the hidden and/or inaccessible damage/degradation in solid media. Increasing attention on the development of the testing method based on nonlinear ultrasonic guided waves is largely attributed to the theoretical advances of nonlinear guided waves propagation in solid media. One of the typical acoustic nonlinear responses is the generation of second harmonics that can be used to effectively evaluate damage/degradation in materials/structures. In this paper, the theoretical progress of second-harmonic generation（SHG） of ultrasonic guided wave propagation in solid media is reviewed. The advances and developments of theoretical investigations on the effect of SHG of ultrasonic guided wave propagation in different structures are addressed. Some obscure understandings and the ideas in dispute are also discussed.展开更多
Multi-mode spiral wave and its breakup in 1-d and 2-d coupled oscillatory media is studied here by theoretic analysis and numerical simulations. The analysis in 1-d system shows that the dispersion relation curve coul...Multi-mode spiral wave and its breakup in 1-d and 2-d coupled oscillatory media is studied here by theoretic analysis and numerical simulations. The analysis in 1-d system shows that the dispersion relation curve could be nonmonotonic depending on the coupling strength. It may also lead to the coexistence of different wave numbers within one system. Direct numerical observations in 1-d and 2-d systems conform to the prediction of dispersion relation analysis. Our findings indicate that the wave grouping can also be observed in oscillatory media without tip meandering and waves with negative group velocity can occur without inhomogeneity.展开更多
-In this paper, the irregular wave force on a cylindrical pier group is calculated by the method of spectrum analysis, and the coefficients of the group effect of piers in the pier group are given here. The calculated...-In this paper, the irregular wave force on a cylindrical pier group is calculated by the method of spectrum analysis, and the coefficients of the group effect of piers in the pier group are given here. The calculated results, using P-M and Bretshneider's. (B's) spectra, are obtained for the cases of 2 piers, 3 piers and 4 piers. To compare these results with those obtained for regular waves, we can come to some significant conclusions. Under the action of the irregular wave, when the distance between the piers in the pier group increases, the coefficient of the group effect decreases and tends rapidly to the case of a single pier. In general, when the ratio of the distance between the piers to the diameter of the pier is greater than 4, the group effect can be neglected.展开更多
基金financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No. 52371277)the State Key Laboratory of Hydraulic Engineering Intelligent Construction and Operation (Tianjin University)(Grant No. HESS-2323)+2 种基金the Postgraduate Research&Practice Innovation Program of Jiangsu Province (Grant No. KYCX24_4071)the Guangdong Basic and Applied Basic Research Foundation (Grant No. 2023A1515010890)the Open foundation of Key Laboratory of Port.Waterway&Sedimentation Engineering (Grant No. Yk224001-1)。
文摘This paper explores the phenomenon of fluid resonance occurring within a narrow gap between a vessel and a vertical wharf, taking ships berthing in front of a gravity wharf as the research background. Using the open-source software Open FOAM~?, a two-dimensional viscous-flow numerical wave flume was developed to simulate the fluid resonant motions induced by transient focused wave groups with different spectral peak periods and wave amplitudes. The results indicate that for all the incident focused wave amplitudes considered, the amplitudes of the free surface elevation in the gap, horizontal wave force and moment all exhibit a bimodal variation trend with increasing spectral peak period. The peak values of the above amplitude-period curve appear near the resonant period of the first and second harmonic components of the free surface elevation. However, the variation in the vertical wave force versus the spectral peak period presents different patterns. In addition, the first-to fourth-order harmonic components in the wave surface and forces are further examined via the four-phase combination method. The results show that the first-to secondorder harmonic components play a dominant role in the overall amplitude.
基金supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant Nos. 51079023 and 50921001)the Program for New Century Excellent Talents in University (Grant No. NCET-05-0282)
文摘Real waves are multidirectional waves. In the present study, the calculation method for the wave maker driving signals for generating multidirectional wave groups in physical wave basin is proposed. Its validity is first confirmed by a numerical model for which the incident boundary condition is determined by use of the proposed method. Then, the physical simulation of multidirectional wave groups is performed in laboratory wave basin. The experimental results show that multidirectional waves with expected wave groupiness, which includes not only its group height but also its group length, can be satisfactorily zenerated at the soecified oosition in the tphvsical wave basin.
基金The National High Technology Research and Development Program of China under contract No.2012AA052602the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos 51079023 and 50921001
文摘The physical simulation method of wave groups in a wave flume is proposed and verified by the exper- iments. The experimental results demonstrate that random waves with desired wave groupiness, which simultaneously includes the wave group height and length, can be generated satisfactorily at the specified position in a wave flume using the proposed method. Furthermore, the transformation properties of the wave groupiness along the fiat-bottomed wave flume are investigated based on the physically simulated waves. Associated proposals with the physical simulation of wave groups are given.
基金This work was financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No50479028)the Specialized Research Fund for the Doctoral Program of Higher Education of China (Grant No20060423009)
文摘The new distributions of the statistics of wave groups based on the maximum entropy principle are presented. The maximum entropy distributions appear to be superior to conventional distributions when applied to a limited amount of information. Its applications to the wave group properties show the effectiveness of the maximum entropy distribution. FFF filtering method is employed to obtain the wave envelope fast and efficiently. Comparisons of both the maximum entropy distribution and the distribution of Longuet-Higgins （1984） with the laboratory wind-wave data show that the former gives a better fit.
文摘Based on field wave data, an empirical formula of wave envelope spectrum is given in this paper. Then the methods of both numerical and physical simulation of sea wave groups with the given spectrum and groupiness parameters are suggested.
基金Supported by the National Science Foundation of China (No. 40576007)the New Century Excellent Talent Foundation from Education Ministry of China (No. NCET-08-0509)
文摘Wave group is important in ocean wave theory and applications. In the past, nonlinear interaction among wave groups has been studied on the basis of the nonlinear Sehrrdinger equation. Using this theoretical approach, we found that the nonlinear interaction among wave groups causes asymmetry in the shape of the wave envelope （steeper in the front of the curve of the envelope）. An important consequence of this asymmetry is that the highest wave in a wave group appears one individual wave length ahead of the center of the wave group. Further results show that the degree of envelope asymmetry increases with increasing spectral width and the wave steepness. This theoretical analysis has been supplemented by a systematic experimental study of wind waves. Laboratory and some open sea wave data were analyzed. The results show that the shape of the wind wave envelope of wind waves has the same asymmetry predicted by the theoretical approach. The observed degree of deformation of the envelope also increases with increasing spectral width and the wave steepness as predicted by theory. These conclusions have important ramifications for practical applications of ocean wave theory.
文摘-The effect of wave group on wave run-up on a slope dike is mainly discussed in this paper. Two simulating methods of wave group and their applications in laboratory are introduced. Synthesizing the research results of wave run-up on a slope dike, the effect of wave group on wave run-up on a slope dike in coastal protection engineering is studied as the main point.
基金supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No. 50921001)the National High Technology Research and Development Program of China (863 Program, Grant No. 2007AA11Z130)
文摘Coupled dynamic analysis of the Deep Draft Multi-Spar （DDMS） platform and the mooring system under the action of waves and current is carried out in the time domain. Using a geometrically nonlinear finite element method, the mooring-line dynamics is simulated based on the total Lagrangian formulation. Wave groups are obtained by the JONSWAP spectrum and an empirical wave envelope spectrum involving two envelope-based factors Group Height Factor （GFH） and Group Length Factor （GLF）. The results show that the wave groups have a significant effect on the motion responses of the platform and the mooring line tensions.
基金Projects supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.11772099)the Heilongjiang Touyan Innovation Team Program,China.
文摘The evolution of the nonlinear wave groups in deep water is investigated through laboratory measurements and numerical analysis.Laboratory experiments are conducted in deep-water wave tank,focusing on the characteristics of breaking waves arising from the evolved wave train.Some quantitative results are obtained for the significant breaking wave train,including the surface elevation time series,the local geometry,and the energy dissipation.A nonlinear model for the evolution of the wave groups in deep water is developed by adding eddy viscosity dissipation terms in the High Level Irrotational Green-Naghdi(HLIGN)equations.The results of the simulation are compared with the laboratory measurements,and good agreement is observed for the evolved wave train.
基金financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.51079023 and 51221961)the National Basic Research Program of China(973 Program,Grant Nos.2011CB013703 and 2013CB036101)
文摘Long time series of wave field are experimentally simulated by JONSWAP spectra with random phases in a 2D wave flume. Statistic properties of wave surface, such as significant wave height, skewness and kurtosis, are analyzed, and the freak wave occurrence probability and its relations with Benjamin-Feir index （BFI） are also investigated. The results show that the skewness and the kurtosis are significantly dependent on the wave steepness, and the kurtosis increases along the flume when BFI is large. The freak waves are observed in random wave groups. They occur more frequently than expected, especially for the wave groups with large BFI.
文摘Various types of wave group solutions of the weakly nonlinear waves may exist over uneven bottoms. In this paper, the variation of the zeroes of the dispersive and nonlinear terms,and the wave group solution in the third-order evolution equations are described for the case of mild and locally fastvarying water depths.
文摘Based on one-year wave field data measured at the south part of the radial sand ridges of the Southern Yellow Sea, the wave statistical characteristics, wave spectrum and wave group properties are analyzed. The results show that the significant wave height （H1/3） varies from 0.15 to 2.22 m with the average of 0.59 m and the mean wave period （Tmean） varies from 2.06 to 6.82 s with the average of 3.71 s. The percentage of single peak in the wave spectra is 88.6 during the measurement period, in which 36.3% of the waves are pure wind waves and the rest are young swells. The percentage with the significant wave height larger than 1 m is 12.4. The dominant wave directions in the study area are WNW, W, ESE, E and NW. The relationships among the characteristic wave heights, the characteristic wave periods, and the wave spectral parameters are identified. It is found that the tentative spectral model is suitable for the quantitative description of the wave spectrum in the study area, while the run lengths of the wave group estimated from the measured data are generally larger than those in other sea areas.
文摘Three methods for studying wave groups and their main parameters for describing wave groupiness are reviewed in this paper. Then they are analyzed and compared combined with field data from both aspects of group height and group length. A method and two parameters that can describe wave groupiness are suggested. The groupiness parameters of sea waves at three field stations are given. The effects of groupiness on both distributions of the wave height and the phase of component waves are investigated. The effects of datum length on the calculated value of grouping parameters are also discussed.
文摘A review concerning the methods of studying and describing wave groups is presented in this paper. After analysing 78 field records collected in the Shijiu Port, China, the measured parameters of wave groups and some factors describing wave groupness and their variations are given. Moreover, these results are compared with those of theory.
基金financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.51679036 and 51490672)the Royal Academy of Engineering under the UK-China Industry Academia Partnership Programme(Grant No.UK-CIAPP\73)the Program for New Century Excellent Talents in University(Grant No.NCET-13-0076)
文摘Ning et al. （2015） developed a 2D fully nonlinear potential model to investigate the interaction between focused waves and uniform currents. The effects of uniform current on focusing wave crest, focal time and focal position were given. As its extension, harmonic energy transfer for focused waves in uniform current is studied using the proposed model by Ning et al. （2015） and Fast Fourier Transformation （FFT） technique in this study. It shows that the strong opposing currents, inducing partial wave blocking and reducing the extreme wave crest, make the nonlinear energy transfer non-reversible in the focusing and defocusing processes. The numerical results also provide an explanation to address the shifts of focal points in consideration of the combination effects of wave nonlinearity and current.
基金supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.40830959 and 41276010)
文摘Knowledge on intermittency of wave breaking is so far limited to a few summary statistics, while the probability distribution of time interval between breaking events can provide a full view of intermittency. Based on a series of experiments on wind wave breaking, such probability distributions are investigated. Breaking waves within a wave group were taken as a single breaking event according to recent studies. Interval between successive wave groups with breaker is the focus of this paper. For intervals in our experiments with different fetch and wind conditions, their distributions are all skewed and weighted on small intervals. Results of Kolmogorov-Smirnov tests on time series of these intervals indicate that they all follow gamma distribution, and some are even exponential type. Average breaking-group-interval decreases with friction velocity and significant steepness until the wind is strong enough;most of them are more than 10 times the dominant wave period. Group breaking probability proposed by Babanin recently and the average number of breaking waves in wave groups are also discussed, and they are seemingly more reasonable and sensitive than traditional breaking probability defined in terms of single wave.
基金financially supported by the National Key Research and Development Program(Grant No.2017YFC1404200)National Nature Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.51679031,51720105010,and 51422901)+1 种基金High-Tech Ship Research Projects Sponsored by the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology(MIIT) of Chinathe Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities(Grant No.DUT16TD08)
文摘Single Gaussian wave groups with different initial wave steepness εand width N are produced in laboratory in finite depth to study the nonlinear evolution, the extreme events and breaking. The results show that wave groups with larger εwill evolve to be several envelope solitons(short wave groups). By analyzing geometric parameters, a break in the evolution of the wave elevation and asymmetric parameters after extreme wave may be an indicator for the inception of refocus and the maximal wave moving to the middle, namely, wave down-shift occurs. The analysis of the surface elevations with HHT(Hilbert-Huang Transform), which presents the concrete local variation of energy in time and frequency can be exhibited clearly, reveals that the higher frequency components play a major role in forming the extreme event and the contribution to the nonlinearity. Instantaneous energy and frequency in the vicinity of the extreme wave are also examined locally. For spilling breakers, the energy residing in the whole wave front dissipates much more due to breaking, while the energy in the rear of wave crest loses little, and the intra-wave frequency modulation increases as focus. It illustrates that the maximal first order instantaneous frequency fand the largest crest tend to emerge at the same time after extreme wave when significant energy dissipation happens, and vice versa. In addition, it shows that there is no obvious relation of the CDN(combined degree of nonlinearity) to the wave breaking for the single Gaussian wave group in finite water depth.
基金Project supported by National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.11474361,51405405,and 11622430)
文摘Considering the high sensitivity of the nonlinear ultrasonic measurement technique and great advantages of the guided wave testing method, the use of nonlinear ultrasonic guided waves provides a promising means for evaluating and characterizing the hidden and/or inaccessible damage/degradation in solid media. Increasing attention on the development of the testing method based on nonlinear ultrasonic guided waves is largely attributed to the theoretical advances of nonlinear guided waves propagation in solid media. One of the typical acoustic nonlinear responses is the generation of second harmonics that can be used to effectively evaluate damage/degradation in materials/structures. In this paper, the theoretical progress of second-harmonic generation（SHG） of ultrasonic guided wave propagation in solid media is reviewed. The advances and developments of theoretical investigations on the effect of SHG of ultrasonic guided wave propagation in different structures are addressed. Some obscure understandings and the ideas in dispute are also discussed.
基金Supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China under Grant Nos. 20573134, 10875011the Natural Science Foundation of Xuzhou Normal University under Grant No. 07PYL02
文摘Multi-mode spiral wave and its breakup in 1-d and 2-d coupled oscillatory media is studied here by theoretic analysis and numerical simulations. The analysis in 1-d system shows that the dispersion relation curve could be nonmonotonic depending on the coupling strength. It may also lead to the coexistence of different wave numbers within one system. Direct numerical observations in 1-d and 2-d systems conform to the prediction of dispersion relation analysis. Our findings indicate that the wave grouping can also be observed in oscillatory media without tip meandering and waves with negative group velocity can occur without inhomogeneity.
文摘-In this paper, the irregular wave force on a cylindrical pier group is calculated by the method of spectrum analysis, and the coefficients of the group effect of piers in the pier group are given here. The calculated results, using P-M and Bretshneider's. (B's) spectra, are obtained for the cases of 2 piers, 3 piers and 4 piers. To compare these results with those obtained for regular waves, we can come to some significant conclusions. Under the action of the irregular wave, when the distance between the piers in the pier group increases, the coefficient of the group effect decreases and tends rapidly to the case of a single pier. In general, when the ratio of the distance between the piers to the diameter of the pier is greater than 4, the group effect can be neglected.
