Based on the second order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, statistical distributions of the depth integrated local horizontal momentum components are derived by use of the charact...Based on the second order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, statistical distributions of the depth integrated local horizontal momentum components are derived by use of the characteristic function expansion method. The parameters involved in the distributions can be all determined by the water depth and the wave number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, a fully developed wind generated sea is considered and the parameters are calculated for typical wind speeds and water depths by means of the Donelan and Pierson spectrum. The effects of nonlinearity and water depth on the distributions are also investigated.展开更多
This paper studies the random internal wave equations describing the density interface displacements and the velocity potentials of N-layer stratified fluid contained between two rigid walls at the top and bottom. The...This paper studies the random internal wave equations describing the density interface displacements and the velocity potentials of N-layer stratified fluid contained between two rigid walls at the top and bottom. The density interface displacements and the velocity potentials were solved to the second-order by an expansion approach used by Longuet-Higgins （1963） and Dean （1979） in the study of random surface waves and by Song （2004） in the study of second- order random wave solutions for internal waves in a two-layer fluid. The obtained results indicate that the first-order solutions are a linear superposition of many wave components with different amplitudes, wave numbers and frequencies, and that the amplitudes of first-order wave components with the same wave numbers and frequencies between the adjacent density interfaces are modulated by each other. They also show that the second-order solutions consist of two parts： the first one is the first-order solutions, and the second one is the solutions of the second-order asymptotic equations, which describe the second-order nonlinear modification and the second-order wave-wave interactions not only among the wave components on same density interfaces but also among the wave components between the adjacent density interfaces. Both the first-order and second-order solutions depend on the density and depth of each layer. It is also deduced that the results of the present work include those derived by Song （2004） for second-order random wave solutions for internal waves in a two-layer fluid as a particular case.展开更多
In the present research, the study of Song (2004) for random interfacial waves in two-layer fluid is extended to the case of fluids moving at different steady uniform speeds. The equations describing the random displa...In the present research, the study of Song (2004) for random interfacial waves in two-layer fluid is extended to the case of fluids moving at different steady uniform speeds. The equations describing the random displacements of the density interface and the associated velocity potentials in two-layer fluid are solved to the second order, and the wave-wave interactions of the wave components and the interactions between the waves and currents are described. As expected, the extended solutions include those obtained by Song (2004) as one special case where the steady uniform currents of the two fluids are taken as zero, and the solutions reduce to those derived by Sharma and Dean (1979) for random surface waves if the density of the upper fluid and the current of the lower fluid are both taken as zero.展开更多
In the present paper, the random interfacial waves in N-layer density-stratified fluids moving at different steady uniform speeds are researched by using an expansion technique, and the second-order asymptotic solutio...In the present paper, the random interfacial waves in N-layer density-stratified fluids moving at different steady uniform speeds are researched by using an expansion technique, and the second-order asymptotic solutions of the random displacements of the density interfaces and the associated velocity potentials in N-layer fluid are presented based on the small amplitude wave theory. The obtained results indicate that the wave-wave second-order nonlinear interactions of the wave components and the second-order nonlinear interactions between the waves and currents are described. As expected, the solutions include those derived by Chen （2006） as a special case where the steady uniform currents of the N-layer fluids are taken as zero, and the solutions also reduce to those obtained by Song （2005） for second-order solutions for random interfacial waves with steady uniform currents if N = 2.展开更多
To propel the application of a bottom-hinged flap breakwater in real sea conditions,a two-dimensional computational fluid dynamics numerical model was conducted to investigate the pitching motion response and wave att...To propel the application of a bottom-hinged flap breakwater in real sea conditions,a two-dimensional computational fluid dynamics numerical model was conducted to investigate the pitching motion response and wave attenuation in random waves.First,the flow velocity distribution characteristic of the pitching flap at typical times was summarized.Then,the effects of random wave and flap parameters on the flap’s significant pitching angle amplitude θ_(s) and hydrodynamic coefficients were investigated.The results reveal that θ_(s) and wave reflection coefficient K_(r) values increase with increasing significant wave height Hs,random wave steepnessλs,and flap relative height.As Hs andλs increase,the wave transmission coefficient K_(t) increases while the wave dissipation coefficient K_(d) decreases.Additionally,K_(t) decreases with increasing flap relative height.With increasing equivalent damping coefficient ratio,θ_(s) and K_(t) decrease,while K_(r) and K_(d) increase.The relationships betweenλs and flap relative height on the one hand andθ_(s),K_(r),K_(t),and K_(d) in random waves on the other hand are compared to those in regular waves.Based on the equal incident wave energy and the equal incident wave energy flux,the pitching flap performs better in the wave attenuation capability under random waves than in regular waves.Finally,the dimensionless parameters with respect to random wave and flap were used to derive the K_(r) and K_(t) for-mulae,which were validated with the related data.展开更多
A previous study （Song. 2004. Geophys Res Lett, 31 （15）：L15302） of the second-order solutions for random interracial waves is extended in a constant depth, two-layer fluid system with a rigid lid is extended into...A previous study （Song. 2004. Geophys Res Lett, 31 （15）：L15302） of the second-order solutions for random interracial waves is extended in a constant depth, two-layer fluid system with a rigid lid is extended into a more general case of two-layer fluid with a top free surface. The rigid boundary condition on the upper surface is replaced by the kinematical and dynamical boundary conditions of a free surface, and the equations describing the random displacements of free surface, density-interface and the associated velocity potentials in the two-layer fluid are solved to the second order using the same expansion technology as that of Song （2004. Geophys Res Lett, 31 （15）：L15302）. The results show that the interface and the surface will oscillate synchronously, and the wave fields to the first-order both at the free surface and at the density-interface are made up of a linear superposition of many waves with different amplitudes, wave numbers and frequencies. The second-order solutions describe the second-order wave-wave interactions of the surface wave components, the interface wave components and among the surface and the interface wave components. The extended solutions also include special cases obtained by Thorpe for progressive interracial waves （Thorpe. 1968a.Trans R Soc London, 263A：563～614） and standing interracial waves （Thorpe. 1968b. J Fluid Mech, 32：489-528） for the two-layer fluid with a top free surface. Moreover, the solutions reduce to those derived for random surface waves by Sharma and Dean （1979.Ocean Engineering Rep 20） if the density of the upper layer is much smaller than that of the lower layer.展开更多
Based on the full water-wave equation, a second-order analytic solution for nonlinear interaction of short edge waves on a plane sloping bottom is presented in this paper. For special ease of slope angle β = π/2, th...Based on the full water-wave equation, a second-order analytic solution for nonlinear interaction of short edge waves on a plane sloping bottom is presented in this paper. For special ease of slope angle β = π/2, this solution can reduced to the same order solution of deep water gravity surface waves traveling along parallel coastline. Interactions between two edge waves including progressive, standing and partially reflected standing waves are also discussed. The unified analytic expressions with transfer functions for kinematic-dynamic elements of edge waves are also given. The random model of the unified wave motion processes for linear and nonlinear irregular edge waves is formulated, and the corresponding theoreti- cal autocorrelation and spectral density functions of the first and the second orders are derived. The boundary conditions for the determination of the parameters of short edge wave are suggested, that may be seen as one special simple edge wave excitation mechanism and an extension to the sea wave refraction theory. Finally some computation results are demonstrated.展开更多
A complete semi-analytical solution is obtained for second-order diffraction of plane bichromatic waves by a fixed truncated circular column.The fluid domain is divided into interior and exterior regions.In the exteri...A complete semi-analytical solution is obtained for second-order diffraction of plane bichromatic waves by a fixed truncated circular column.The fluid domain is divided into interior and exterior regions.In the exterior region,the second-order velocity potential is expressed in terms of‘locked-wave’and‘free-wave’ components,both are solved using Fourier and eigenfunction expansions.The re- sulting‘locked wave’potential is expressed by one-dimensional Green's integrals with oscillating integrands.In order to increase computational efficiency,the far-field part of the integrals are carried out analytically.Solutions in both regions are matched on the interface by the potential and its normal derivative continuity conditions.Based on the present approach,the sum-and difference-frequency potentials are efficiently evaluated and are used to generate the quadratic transfer functions which correlates the incident wave spectrum with second-order forcing spectrum on the column.The sum-frequency QTFs for a TLP column are present,which are compared for some frequency pairs with those from a fully numerical procedure.Satisfactory agreement has been obtained.QTF spectra for a case study TLP column,generated using the semi-analytical solution are presented.Also given are the results for nonlinear wave field around the column.展开更多
The mild-slope equation derived by Berkhoff (1972), has widely been used in the numerical calculation of refraction and diffraction of regular waves. However, it is well known that the random sea waves has a significa...The mild-slope equation derived by Berkhoff (1972), has widely been used in the numerical calculation of refraction and diffraction of regular waves. However, it is well known that the random sea waves has a significant effect in the refraction and diffraction problems. In this paper, a new form of time-dependent mild slope equation for irregular waves was derived with Fade approximation and Kubo's time series concept. The equation was simplified using WKB method, and simple and practical irregular mild slope equation was obtained. Results of numerical calculations are compared with those of laboratory experiments.展开更多
This paper presents a study on the motion response of a tension-leg platform(TLP) under first-and second-order wave forces, including the mean-drift force, difference and sum-frequency forces. The second-order wave fo...This paper presents a study on the motion response of a tension-leg platform(TLP) under first-and second-order wave forces, including the mean-drift force, difference and sum-frequency forces. The second-order wave force is calculated using the full-field quadratic transfer function(QTF). The coupled effect of the horizontal motions, such as surge, sway and yaw motions, and the set-down motion are taken into consideration by the nonlinear restoring matrix. The time-domain analysis with 50-yr random sea state is performed. A comparison of the results of different case studies is made to assess the influence of second-order wave force on the motions of the platform. The analysis shows that the second-order wave force has a major impact on motions of the TLP. The second-order difference-frequency wave force has an obvious influence on the low-frequency motions of surge and sway, and also will induce a large set-down motion which is an important part of heave motion. Besides, the second-order sum-frequency force will induce a set of high-frequency motions of roll and pitch. However, little influence of second-order wave force is found on the yaw motion.展开更多
Numerical simulations of freak wave generation are studied in random oceanic sea states described by JONSWAP spectrum. The evolution of initial random wave trains is namerically carried out within the framework of the...Numerical simulations of freak wave generation are studied in random oceanic sea states described by JONSWAP spectrum. The evolution of initial random wave trains is namerically carried out within the framework of the modified fourorder nonlinear Schroedinger equation （mNLSE）, and some involved influence factors are also discussed. Results show that if the sideband instability is satisfied, a random wave train may evolve into a freak wave train, and simultaneously the setting of the Phillips paranleter and enhancement coefficient of JONSWAP spectrum and initial random phases is very important for the formation of freak waves. The way to increase the generation efficiency of freak waves thsough changing the involved parameters is also presented.展开更多
An experimental study is carried out for waves passing an isolated reef terrain in a wave tank. A three-dimensional model of a representative and isolated reef terrain in the West Pacific is built. Random wave trains ...An experimental study is carried out for waves passing an isolated reef terrain in a wave tank. A three-dimensional model of a representative and isolated reef terrain in the West Pacific is built. Random wave trains with various periods and wave heights are generated by a wave maker using the improved JONSWAP spectrum. It is observed that there are different kinds of generation processes and waveforms of freak waves. The freak wave factor Hm/Hs (where Hm is the maximum wave height of wave series, and Hs is significant wave height) is analyzed in detail, in terms of the skewness, kurtosis and water depth, as well as the relationship between freak wave height H& and skewness. The freak wave factor Hm/Hs is found to be in positive correlation with the kurtosis, while larger H[x tends to be related with bigger skewness. The rapid variation of water depth, such as slope and seamount, contributes to the occurrence probability of freak waves.展开更多
According to the theoretical solutions for the nonlinear three-dimensional gravity surface waves and their interactions with vertical wall previously proposed by the lead author, in this paper an exact second-order ra...According to the theoretical solutions for the nonlinear three-dimensional gravity surface waves and their interactions with vertical wall previously proposed by the lead author, in this paper an exact second-order random model of the unified wave motion process for nonlinear irregular waves and their interactions with vertical wall in uniform current is formulated, the corresponding theoretical nonlinear spectrum is derived, and the digital simulation model suitable to the use of the FFT (Fast Fourier Transform) algorithm is also given. Simulations of wave surface, wave pressure, total wave pressure and its moment are performed. The probability properties and statistical characteristics of these realizations are tested, which include the verifications of normality for linear process and of non-normality for nonlinear process; the consistencies of the theoretical spectra with simulated ones; the probability properties of apparent characteristics, such as amplitudes, periods, and extremes (maximum and minimum, positive and negative extremes). The statistical analysis and comparisons demonstrate that the proposed theoretical and computing models are realistic and effective, and estimated spectra are in good agreement with the theoretical ones, and the probability properties of the simulated waves are similar to those of the sea waves. At the same time, the simulating computation can be completed rapidly and easily.展开更多
New hyperbolic mild slope equations for random waves are developed with the inclusion of amplitude dispersion. The frequency perturbation around the peak frequency of random waves is adopted to extend the equations fo...New hyperbolic mild slope equations for random waves are developed with the inclusion of amplitude dispersion. The frequency perturbation around the peak frequency of random waves is adopted to extend the equations for regular waves to random waves. The nonlinear effect of amplitude dispersion is incorporated approximately into the model by only considering the nonlinear effect on the carrier waves of random waves, which is done by introducing a representative wave amplitude for the carrier waves. The computation time is gready saved by the introduction of the representative wave amplitude. The extension of the present model to breaking waves is also considered in order to apply the new equations to surf zone. The model is validated for random waves propagate over a shoal and in surf zone against measurements.展开更多
Long time series of wave field are experimentally simulated by JONSWAP spectra with random phases in a 2D wave flume. Statistic properties of wave surface, such as significant wave height, skewness and kurtosis, are a...Long time series of wave field are experimentally simulated by JONSWAP spectra with random phases in a 2D wave flume. Statistic properties of wave surface, such as significant wave height, skewness and kurtosis, are analyzed, and the freak wave occurrence probability and its relations with Benjamin-Feir index （BFI） are also investigated. The results show that the skewness and the kurtosis are significantly dependent on the wave steepness, and the kurtosis increases along the flume when BFI is large. The freak waves are observed in random wave groups. They occur more frequently than expected, especially for the wave groups with large BFI.展开更多
This paper presents a numerical study on the hydrodynamic behaviours of a round buoyant jet under the effect of JONSWAP random waves. A three-dimensional large eddy simulation （LES） model is developed to simulate th...This paper presents a numerical study on the hydrodynamic behaviours of a round buoyant jet under the effect of JONSWAP random waves. A three-dimensional large eddy simulation （LES） model is developed to simulate the buoyant jet in a stagnant ambient and JONSWAP random waves. By comparison of velocity and concentration fields, it is found that the buoyant jet exhibits faster decay of centerline velocity, wider lateral spreading and larger initial dilution under the wave effect, indicating that wave dynamics improves the jet entrainment and mixing in the near field, and subsequently mitigate the jet impacts in the far field. The effect of buoyancy force on the jet behaviours in the random waves is also numerically investigated. The results show that the wave effect on the jet entrainment and mixing is considerably weakened under the existence of buoyancy force, resulting in a slower decay rate of centerline velocity and a narrower jet width for the jet with initial buoyancy.展开更多
As the main load-bearing component of fish cages, the floating collar supports the whole cage and undergoes large deformations. In this paper, a mathematical method is developed to study the motions and elastic deform...As the main load-bearing component of fish cages, the floating collar supports the whole cage and undergoes large deformations. In this paper, a mathematical method is developed to study the motions and elastic deformations of elastic floating collars in random waves. The irregular wave is simulated by the random phase method and the statistical approach and Fourier transfer are applied to analyze the elastic response in both time and frequency domains. The governing equations of motions are established by Newton＇s second law, and the governing equations of deformations are obtained based on curved beam theory and modal superposition method. In order to validate the numerical model of the floating collar attacked by random waves, a series of physical model tests are conducted. Good relationship between numerical simulation and experimental observations is obtained. The numerical results indicate that the transfer function of out-of-plane and in-plane deformations increase with the increasing of wave frequency. In the frequency range between 0.6 Hz and 1.1 Hz, a linear relationship exists between the wave elevations and the deformations. The average phase difference between the wave elevation and out-of-plane deformation is 60° with waves leading and the phase between the wave elevation and in-plane deformation is 10° with waves lagging. In addition, the effect of fish net on the elastic response is analyzed. The results suggest that the deformation of the floating collar with fish net is a little larger than that without net.展开更多
A convolution perfectly matched layer(CPML)can efficiently absorb boundary reflection in numerical simulation.However,the CPML is suitable for the first-order elastic wave equation and is difficult to apply directly t...A convolution perfectly matched layer(CPML)can efficiently absorb boundary reflection in numerical simulation.However,the CPML is suitable for the first-order elastic wave equation and is difficult to apply directly to the second-order elastic wave equation.In view of this,based on the first-order CPML absorbing boundary condition,we propose a new CPML(NCPML)boundary which can be directly applied to the second-order wave equation.We first systematically extend the first-order CPML technique into second-order wave equations,neglecting the space-varying characteristics of the partial damping coefficient in the complex-frequency domain,avoiding the generation of convolution in the time domain.We then transform the technique back to the time domain through the inverse Fourier transform.Numerical simulation indicates that the space-varying characteristics of the attenuation factor have little influence on the absorption effect and increase the memory at the same time.A number of numerical examples show that the NCPML proposed in this study is effective in simulating elastic wave propagation,and this algorithm is more efficient and requires less memory allocation than the conventional PML absorbing boundary.展开更多
Contaminants that are floating on the surface of the ocean are subjected to the action of random waves.In the literature,it has been asserted by researchers that the random wave action will lead to a dispersion mechan...Contaminants that are floating on the surface of the ocean are subjected to the action of random waves.In the literature,it has been asserted by researchers that the random wave action will lead to a dispersion mechanism through the induced Stokes drift,and that this dispersion mechanism may have the same order of significance comparable with the others means due to tidal currents and wind.It is investigated whether or not surface floating substances will disperse in the random wave environment due to the induced Stokes drift.An analytical derivation is first performed to obtain the drift velocity under the random waves.From the analysis,it is shown that the drift velocity is a time-independent value that does not possess any fluctuation given a specific wave energy spectrum.Thus,the random wave drift by itself should not have a dispersive effect on the surface floating substances.Experiments were then conducted with small floating objects subjected to P-M spectral waves in a laboratory wave flume,and the experimental results reinforced the conclusion drawn.展开更多
This paper presents the heave responses and the moonpool water motions of a truss Spar platform with semi-closed moonpool in random waves. A 2-DOF（degree of freedom） coupling dynamical equations of the platform heav...This paper presents the heave responses and the moonpool water motions of a truss Spar platform with semi-closed moonpool in random waves. A 2-DOF（degree of freedom） coupling dynamical equations of the platform heave and vertical motions of the moonpool water are derived. The linear wave theory is used to simulate the random waves. The response statistical values and the power spectrums are calculated to analyze the mutual influences between the platform heave and the moonpool water motions for different opening ratios of the moonpool. The effect of coupling parameters on the platform heave and the moonpool water motions are analyzed. The results show that motions of the moonpool water significantly affected the platform heave when the characteristic wave period is far away from the natural period of the platform heave, and different moonpool opening ratios lead to different heave amplitudes of the platform. In the actual design, an optimized moonpool opening ratio can be designed to reduce heave motions of the platform.展开更多
文摘Based on the second order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, statistical distributions of the depth integrated local horizontal momentum components are derived by use of the characteristic function expansion method. The parameters involved in the distributions can be all determined by the water depth and the wave number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, a fully developed wind generated sea is considered and the parameters are calculated for typical wind speeds and water depths by means of the Donelan and Pierson spectrum. The effects of nonlinearity and water depth on the distributions are also investigated.
基金Project supported by the National Science Fund for Distinguished Young Scholars （Grant No 40425015）, the Cooperative Project of Chinese Academy Sciences and the China National 0ffshore oil Corporation （＂Behaviours of internal waves and their roles on the marine structures＂） and the National Natural Science Foundation of China （Grant No10461005）.
文摘This paper studies the random internal wave equations describing the density interface displacements and the velocity potentials of N-layer stratified fluid contained between two rigid walls at the top and bottom. The density interface displacements and the velocity potentials were solved to the second-order by an expansion approach used by Longuet-Higgins （1963） and Dean （1979） in the study of random surface waves and by Song （2004） in the study of second- order random wave solutions for internal waves in a two-layer fluid. The obtained results indicate that the first-order solutions are a linear superposition of many wave components with different amplitudes, wave numbers and frequencies, and that the amplitudes of first-order wave components with the same wave numbers and frequencies between the adjacent density interfaces are modulated by each other. They also show that the second-order solutions consist of two parts： the first one is the first-order solutions, and the second one is the solutions of the second-order asymptotic equations, which describe the second-order nonlinear modification and the second-order wave-wave interactions not only among the wave components on same density interfaces but also among the wave components between the adjacent density interfaces. Both the first-order and second-order solutions depend on the density and depth of each layer. It is also deduced that the results of the present work include those derived by Song （2004） for second-order random wave solutions for internal waves in a two-layer fluid as a particular case.
文摘In the present research, the study of Song (2004) for random interfacial waves in two-layer fluid is extended to the case of fluids moving at different steady uniform speeds. The equations describing the random displacements of the density interface and the associated velocity potentials in two-layer fluid are solved to the second order, and the wave-wave interactions of the wave components and the interactions between the waves and currents are described. As expected, the extended solutions include those obtained by Song (2004) as one special case where the steady uniform currents of the two fluids are taken as zero, and the solutions reduce to those derived by Sharma and Dean (1979) for random surface waves if the density of the upper fluid and the current of the lower fluid are both taken as zero.
基金supported by the Natural Science Foundation of Inner Mongolia,China (Grant No 200711020116)Open Fund of the Key Laboratory of Ocean Circulation and Waves,Chinese Academy of Sciences (Grant No KLOCAW0805)+1 种基金the Key Program of the Scientific Research Plan of Inner Mongolia University of Technology,China (Grant No ZD200608)the National Science Fund for Distinguished Young Scholars of China (Grant No 40425015)
文摘In the present paper, the random interfacial waves in N-layer density-stratified fluids moving at different steady uniform speeds are researched by using an expansion technique, and the second-order asymptotic solutions of the random displacements of the density interfaces and the associated velocity potentials in N-layer fluid are presented based on the small amplitude wave theory. The obtained results indicate that the wave-wave second-order nonlinear interactions of the wave components and the second-order nonlinear interactions between the waves and currents are described. As expected, the solutions include those derived by Chen （2006） as a special case where the steady uniform currents of the N-layer fluids are taken as zero, and the solutions also reduce to those obtained by Song （2005） for second-order solutions for random interfacial waves with steady uniform currents if N = 2.
基金supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Nos.52271295,52088102).
文摘To propel the application of a bottom-hinged flap breakwater in real sea conditions,a two-dimensional computational fluid dynamics numerical model was conducted to investigate the pitching motion response and wave attenuation in random waves.First,the flow velocity distribution characteristic of the pitching flap at typical times was summarized.Then,the effects of random wave and flap parameters on the flap’s significant pitching angle amplitude θ_(s) and hydrodynamic coefficients were investigated.The results reveal that θ_(s) and wave reflection coefficient K_(r) values increase with increasing significant wave height Hs,random wave steepnessλs,and flap relative height.As Hs andλs increase,the wave transmission coefficient K_(t) increases while the wave dissipation coefficient K_(d) decreases.Additionally,K_(t) decreases with increasing flap relative height.With increasing equivalent damping coefficient ratio,θ_(s) and K_(t) decrease,while K_(r) and K_(d) increase.The relationships betweenλs and flap relative height on the one hand andθ_(s),K_(r),K_(t),and K_(d) in random waves on the other hand are compared to those in regular waves.Based on the equal incident wave energy and the equal incident wave energy flux,the pitching flap performs better in the wave attenuation capability under random waves than in regular waves.Finally,the dimensionless parameters with respect to random wave and flap were used to derive the K_(r) and K_(t) for-mulae,which were validated with the related data.
基金supported by the National Science Foundation for Distinguished Young Scholars of China under contract No.40425015the Cooperative Project of Chinese Academy Sciences and the China National 0ffshore 0il Corporation("Behaviours of internal waves and their roles on the marine stuctures").
文摘A previous study （Song. 2004. Geophys Res Lett, 31 （15）：L15302） of the second-order solutions for random interracial waves is extended in a constant depth, two-layer fluid system with a rigid lid is extended into a more general case of two-layer fluid with a top free surface. The rigid boundary condition on the upper surface is replaced by the kinematical and dynamical boundary conditions of a free surface, and the equations describing the random displacements of free surface, density-interface and the associated velocity potentials in the two-layer fluid are solved to the second order using the same expansion technology as that of Song （2004. Geophys Res Lett, 31 （15）：L15302）. The results show that the interface and the surface will oscillate synchronously, and the wave fields to the first-order both at the free surface and at the density-interface are made up of a linear superposition of many waves with different amplitudes, wave numbers and frequencies. The second-order solutions describe the second-order wave-wave interactions of the surface wave components, the interface wave components and among the surface and the interface wave components. The extended solutions also include special cases obtained by Thorpe for progressive interracial waves （Thorpe. 1968a.Trans R Soc London, 263A：563～614） and standing interracial waves （Thorpe. 1968b. J Fluid Mech, 32：489-528） for the two-layer fluid with a top free surface. Moreover, the solutions reduce to those derived for random surface waves by Sharma and Dean （1979.Ocean Engineering Rep 20） if the density of the upper layer is much smaller than that of the lower layer.
文摘Based on the full water-wave equation, a second-order analytic solution for nonlinear interaction of short edge waves on a plane sloping bottom is presented in this paper. For special ease of slope angle β = π/2, this solution can reduced to the same order solution of deep water gravity surface waves traveling along parallel coastline. Interactions between two edge waves including progressive, standing and partially reflected standing waves are also discussed. The unified analytic expressions with transfer functions for kinematic-dynamic elements of edge waves are also given. The random model of the unified wave motion processes for linear and nonlinear irregular edge waves is formulated, and the corresponding theoreti- cal autocorrelation and spectral density functions of the first and the second orders are derived. The boundary conditions for the determination of the parameters of short edge wave are suggested, that may be seen as one special simple edge wave excitation mechanism and an extension to the sea wave refraction theory. Finally some computation results are demonstrated.
文摘A complete semi-analytical solution is obtained for second-order diffraction of plane bichromatic waves by a fixed truncated circular column.The fluid domain is divided into interior and exterior regions.In the exterior region,the second-order velocity potential is expressed in terms of‘locked-wave’and‘free-wave’ components,both are solved using Fourier and eigenfunction expansions.The re- sulting‘locked wave’potential is expressed by one-dimensional Green's integrals with oscillating integrands.In order to increase computational efficiency,the far-field part of the integrals are carried out analytically.Solutions in both regions are matched on the interface by the potential and its normal derivative continuity conditions.Based on the present approach,the sum-and difference-frequency potentials are efficiently evaluated and are used to generate the quadratic transfer functions which correlates the incident wave spectrum with second-order forcing spectrum on the column.The sum-frequency QTFs for a TLP column are present,which are compared for some frequency pairs with those from a fully numerical procedure.Satisfactory agreement has been obtained.QTF spectra for a case study TLP column,generated using the semi-analytical solution are presented.Also given are the results for nonlinear wave field around the column.
基金The research was financially supported by the Doctor degree Program Foundation of State Education Commission of China
文摘The mild-slope equation derived by Berkhoff (1972), has widely been used in the numerical calculation of refraction and diffraction of regular waves. However, it is well known that the random sea waves has a significant effect in the refraction and diffraction problems. In this paper, a new form of time-dependent mild slope equation for irregular waves was derived with Fade approximation and Kubo's time series concept. The equation was simplified using WKB method, and simple and practical irregular mild slope equation was obtained. Results of numerical calculations are compared with those of laboratory experiments.
基金supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Nos.51239008 and 51279130)
文摘This paper presents a study on the motion response of a tension-leg platform(TLP) under first-and second-order wave forces, including the mean-drift force, difference and sum-frequency forces. The second-order wave force is calculated using the full-field quadratic transfer function(QTF). The coupled effect of the horizontal motions, such as surge, sway and yaw motions, and the set-down motion are taken into consideration by the nonlinear restoring matrix. The time-domain analysis with 50-yr random sea state is performed. A comparison of the results of different case studies is made to assess the influence of second-order wave force on the motions of the platform. The analysis shows that the second-order wave force has a major impact on motions of the TLP. The second-order difference-frequency wave force has an obvious influence on the low-frequency motions of surge and sway, and also will induce a large set-down motion which is an important part of heave motion. Besides, the second-order sum-frequency force will induce a set of high-frequency motions of roll and pitch. However, little influence of second-order wave force is found on the yaw motion.
基金supported by the International Science and Technology Cooperation Program(Grant No.2007DFA60490)the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.50679078)the Innovation Foundation of Guangzhou Institute of Energy Conversion (Grant No.0807r51001)
文摘Numerical simulations of freak wave generation are studied in random oceanic sea states described by JONSWAP spectrum. The evolution of initial random wave trains is namerically carried out within the framework of the modified fourorder nonlinear Schroedinger equation （mNLSE）, and some involved influence factors are also discussed. Results show that if the sideband instability is satisfied, a random wave train may evolve into a freak wave train, and simultaneously the setting of the Phillips paranleter and enhancement coefficient of JONSWAP spectrum and initial random phases is very important for the formation of freak waves. The way to increase the generation efficiency of freak waves thsough changing the involved parameters is also presented.
基金The Qingdao National Laboratory for Marine Science and Technology under contract No.QNLM20160RP0402the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos 51522902 and 51579040+1 种基金the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities under contract No.DUT17ZD233the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology of China under contract No.[2016]22
文摘An experimental study is carried out for waves passing an isolated reef terrain in a wave tank. A three-dimensional model of a representative and isolated reef terrain in the West Pacific is built. Random wave trains with various periods and wave heights are generated by a wave maker using the improved JONSWAP spectrum. It is observed that there are different kinds of generation processes and waveforms of freak waves. The freak wave factor Hm/Hs (where Hm is the maximum wave height of wave series, and Hs is significant wave height) is analyzed in detail, in terms of the skewness, kurtosis and water depth, as well as the relationship between freak wave height H& and skewness. The freak wave factor Hm/Hs is found to be in positive correlation with the kurtosis, while larger H[x tends to be related with bigger skewness. The rapid variation of water depth, such as slope and seamount, contributes to the occurrence probability of freak waves.
文摘According to the theoretical solutions for the nonlinear three-dimensional gravity surface waves and their interactions with vertical wall previously proposed by the lead author, in this paper an exact second-order random model of the unified wave motion process for nonlinear irregular waves and their interactions with vertical wall in uniform current is formulated, the corresponding theoretical nonlinear spectrum is derived, and the digital simulation model suitable to the use of the FFT (Fast Fourier Transform) algorithm is also given. Simulations of wave surface, wave pressure, total wave pressure and its moment are performed. The probability properties and statistical characteristics of these realizations are tested, which include the verifications of normality for linear process and of non-normality for nonlinear process; the consistencies of the theoretical spectra with simulated ones; the probability properties of apparent characteristics, such as amplitudes, periods, and extremes (maximum and minimum, positive and negative extremes). The statistical analysis and comparisons demonstrate that the proposed theoretical and computing models are realistic and effective, and estimated spectra are in good agreement with the theoretical ones, and the probability properties of the simulated waves are similar to those of the sea waves. At the same time, the simulating computation can be completed rapidly and easily.
基金supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.50479053and10672034)the Program for Changjiang Scholars and Innovative Research Teamin University,and thefoundationfordoctoral degree education of the Education Ministry of China
文摘New hyperbolic mild slope equations for random waves are developed with the inclusion of amplitude dispersion. The frequency perturbation around the peak frequency of random waves is adopted to extend the equations for regular waves to random waves. The nonlinear effect of amplitude dispersion is incorporated approximately into the model by only considering the nonlinear effect on the carrier waves of random waves, which is done by introducing a representative wave amplitude for the carrier waves. The computation time is gready saved by the introduction of the representative wave amplitude. The extension of the present model to breaking waves is also considered in order to apply the new equations to surf zone. The model is validated for random waves propagate over a shoal and in surf zone against measurements.
基金financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.51079023 and 51221961)the National Basic Research Program of China(973 Program,Grant Nos.2011CB013703 and 2013CB036101)
文摘Long time series of wave field are experimentally simulated by JONSWAP spectra with random phases in a 2D wave flume. Statistic properties of wave surface, such as significant wave height, skewness and kurtosis, are analyzed, and the freak wave occurrence probability and its relations with Benjamin-Feir index （BFI） are also investigated. The results show that the skewness and the kurtosis are significantly dependent on the wave steepness, and the kurtosis increases along the flume when BFI is large. The freak waves are observed in random wave groups. They occur more frequently than expected, especially for the wave groups with large BFI.
基金supported by the National Key Basic Research Program of the Ministry of Science and Technology of China(Grant No.2010CB429001)the Special Fund of State Key Laboratory of China(Grant No.2011585812)+2 种基金the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities(Grant No.2011B05614)the 111 Project of the Ministry of Educationthe State Administration of Foreign Experts Affairs,China(Grant No.B12032)
文摘This paper presents a numerical study on the hydrodynamic behaviours of a round buoyant jet under the effect of JONSWAP random waves. A three-dimensional large eddy simulation （LES） model is developed to simulate the buoyant jet in a stagnant ambient and JONSWAP random waves. By comparison of velocity and concentration fields, it is found that the buoyant jet exhibits faster decay of centerline velocity, wider lateral spreading and larger initial dilution under the wave effect, indicating that wave dynamics improves the jet entrainment and mixing in the near field, and subsequently mitigate the jet impacts in the far field. The effect of buoyancy force on the jet behaviours in the random waves is also numerically investigated. The results show that the wave effect on the jet entrainment and mixing is considerably weakened under the existence of buoyancy force, resulting in a slower decay rate of centerline velocity and a narrower jet width for the jet with initial buoyancy.
基金financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.51239002 and 51221961)Cultivation Plan for Young Agriculture Science and Technology Innovation Talents of Liaoning Province(Grant No.2014008)
文摘As the main load-bearing component of fish cages, the floating collar supports the whole cage and undergoes large deformations. In this paper, a mathematical method is developed to study the motions and elastic deformations of elastic floating collars in random waves. The irregular wave is simulated by the random phase method and the statistical approach and Fourier transfer are applied to analyze the elastic response in both time and frequency domains. The governing equations of motions are established by Newton＇s second law, and the governing equations of deformations are obtained based on curved beam theory and modal superposition method. In order to validate the numerical model of the floating collar attacked by random waves, a series of physical model tests are conducted. Good relationship between numerical simulation and experimental observations is obtained. The numerical results indicate that the transfer function of out-of-plane and in-plane deformations increase with the increasing of wave frequency. In the frequency range between 0.6 Hz and 1.1 Hz, a linear relationship exists between the wave elevations and the deformations. The average phase difference between the wave elevation and out-of-plane deformation is 60° with waves leading and the phase between the wave elevation and in-plane deformation is 10° with waves lagging. In addition, the effect of fish net on the elastic response is analyzed. The results suggest that the deformation of the floating collar with fish net is a little larger than that without net.
基金supported by the National Science and Technology Major Special Sub-project of China(No.2016ZX05024-001-008)the National Natural Science Foundation Joint Fund Prcject of China(No.U1562215).
文摘A convolution perfectly matched layer(CPML)can efficiently absorb boundary reflection in numerical simulation.However,the CPML is suitable for the first-order elastic wave equation and is difficult to apply directly to the second-order elastic wave equation.In view of this,based on the first-order CPML absorbing boundary condition,we propose a new CPML(NCPML)boundary which can be directly applied to the second-order wave equation.We first systematically extend the first-order CPML technique into second-order wave equations,neglecting the space-varying characteristics of the partial damping coefficient in the complex-frequency domain,avoiding the generation of convolution in the time domain.We then transform the technique back to the time domain through the inverse Fourier transform.Numerical simulation indicates that the space-varying characteristics of the attenuation factor have little influence on the absorption effect and increase the memory at the same time.A number of numerical examples show that the NCPML proposed in this study is effective in simulating elastic wave propagation,and this algorithm is more efficient and requires less memory allocation than the conventional PML absorbing boundary.
基金The State Key Laboratory of Hydrology-Water Resources and Hydraulic Engineering Research Foundation of China under contract No.2015491311
文摘Contaminants that are floating on the surface of the ocean are subjected to the action of random waves.In the literature,it has been asserted by researchers that the random wave action will lead to a dispersion mechanism through the induced Stokes drift,and that this dispersion mechanism may have the same order of significance comparable with the others means due to tidal currents and wind.It is investigated whether or not surface floating substances will disperse in the random wave environment due to the induced Stokes drift.An analytical derivation is first performed to obtain the drift velocity under the random waves.From the analysis,it is shown that the drift velocity is a time-independent value that does not possess any fluctuation given a specific wave energy spectrum.Thus,the random wave drift by itself should not have a dispersive effect on the surface floating substances.Experiments were then conducted with small floating objects subjected to P-M spectral waves in a laboratory wave flume,and the experimental results reinforced the conclusion drawn.
基金financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.51179125)the Innovation Foundation of Tianjin University(Grant No.1301)
文摘This paper presents the heave responses and the moonpool water motions of a truss Spar platform with semi-closed moonpool in random waves. A 2-DOF（degree of freedom） coupling dynamical equations of the platform heave and vertical motions of the moonpool water are derived. The linear wave theory is used to simulate the random waves. The response statistical values and the power spectrums are calculated to analyze the mutual influences between the platform heave and the moonpool water motions for different opening ratios of the moonpool. The effect of coupling parameters on the platform heave and the moonpool water motions are analyzed. The results show that motions of the moonpool water significantly affected the platform heave when the characteristic wave period is far away from the natural period of the platform heave, and different moonpool opening ratios lead to different heave amplitudes of the platform. In the actual design, an optimized moonpool opening ratio can be designed to reduce heave motions of the platform.
