Two mathematical models for combined refraction-diffraction of regular and irregular waves on non-uniform current in water of slowly varying topography are presented in this paper. Model I is derived by wave theory an...Two mathematical models for combined refraction-diffraction of regular and irregular waves on non-uniform current in water of slowly varying topography are presented in this paper. Model I is derived by wave theory and variational principle separately. It has two kinds of expressions including the dissipation term. Model n is based on the energy conservation equation with energy flux through the wave crest lines in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates and the wave kinematic conservation equation. The analysis and comparison and special cases of these two models are also given.展开更多
A new numerical finite difference iteration method for refraction-diffraction of waves ia water of slowly varying current and topography is developed in this paper. And corresponding theoretical model including the di...A new numerical finite difference iteration method for refraction-diffraction of waves ia water of slowly varying current and topography is developed in this paper. And corresponding theoretical model including the dissipation term is briefly described, together with some analysis and comparison of computational results of the model with measurements in a hydraulic scale model (Berkhoff et al., 1982). An example of practical use of the method is given, showing that the present model is useful to engineering practice.展开更多
To solve problems concerning wave elements and wave propagation, an effective way is the wave energy balance equation, which is widely applied in oceanography and ocean dynamics for its simple computation. The present...To solve problems concerning wave elements and wave propagation, an effective way is the wave energy balance equation, which is widely applied in oceanography and ocean dynamics for its simple computation. The present papaer advances wave energy balance equations considering lateral energy transmission and energy loss as the governing equation for the study of wave refraction-diffraction. For the mathematical model, numerical simulation is made by means of difference method, and the result is verified with two examples.展开更多
-Wave refraction-diffraction due to a large ocean structure and topography in the presence of a 'current are studied numerically. The mathematical model is the mild-slope equation developed by Kirby (1984). This e...-Wave refraction-diffraction due to a large ocean structure and topography in the presence of a 'current are studied numerically. The mathematical model is the mild-slope equation developed by Kirby (1984). This equation is solved using a finite and boundary element method. The physical domain is devid-ed into two regions: a slowly varying topography region and a constant water depth region. For waves propagating in the constant water depth region, without current interfering, the mild- slope equation is then reduced to the Helmholtz equation which is solved by boundary element method. In varying topography region, this equation will be solved by finite element method. Conservation of mass and energy flux of the fluid between these two regions is required for composition of these two numerical methods. The numerical scheme proposed here is capable of dealing with water wave problems of different water depths with the main characters of these two methods.展开更多
The refraction-diffraction of surface waves due to porous variable depth has been the subject of many investigations. In the present study, we extend the boundary-value problem of impermeable varying topography to tha...The refraction-diffraction of surface waves due to porous variable depth has been the subject of many investigations. In the present study, we extend the boundary-value problem of impermeable varying topography to that of a variable depth porous seabed, which is the situation most likely to be encountered in practical prob-lems of coastal engineering. A wave-induced fluid motion is applied to the porous bottom, while the well-known linear potential theory is applied to the free-water above the bottom. Eigenfunction expansions are employed to derive the matching condition and the so-called modified dispersion relation. As a result of the porous bottom, the wavenumber becomes a complex value, of which the real part represents the spatial periodicity while the imagi-nary part refers to the energy dissipation. The characteristics of water waves over a porous bottom are studied in detail. By neglecting the non-propagating modes which only have a local effect and damp exponentially with dis-tance, we derive a mathematical model to represent the characteristics of both the wave refraction-diffraction and wave-damping. The developed model is applied to the damping problem of waves over submerged porous breakwaters.展开更多
In this paper the parabolic approximation model based on mild-slope equation is used to study wave propagation over a slowly varying and frictional topography under wave-current interaction. A governing equation consi...In this paper the parabolic approximation model based on mild-slope equation is used to study wave propagation over a slowly varying and frictional topography under wave-current interaction. A governing equation considering the friction effects is derived by the authors for the first time. A simplified form for the rate of wave energy dissipation is presented on the basis of the wave-current action conservation equation and the bottom friction model given by Yoo and O'connor (1987). Examples reveal that the present computational method can be used for the calculation of wave elements for actual engineering projects with large water areas.展开更多
Based on the extended mild-slope equation,a large-scale wave module is developed.By combining the eikonal equation and the modified wave action equation,the wave model can account for diffraction in most situations su...Based on the extended mild-slope equation,a large-scale wave module is developed.By combining the eikonal equation and the modified wave action equation,the wave model can account for diffraction in most situations such as in the lee of islands and breakwaters,and using unstructured meshes provides great flexibility for modelling the wave in the complex geomorphology of barriers and islands,also allowing for refinement of the grid resolution within computationally important domains.The numerical implementation of the module is based on the explicit second-order upwind finite-volume schemes in geographic space,the Flux-Corrected Transport(FCT)algorithm in frequency space and the implicit Crank-Nicolson method in directional space.The three-dimensional hydrodynamic module is then modified to couple with the wave model,where the wave readily provides the depth-dependent radiation stress and the wave-induced turbulence coefficient for the current fields,and the wave propagation takes into account the current-induced advection,refraction and diffraction of wave energy and the effect of water level.The applicability of the proposed model to calculate Snell’s Law,wave transformation over the breakwaters and the elliptic shoal,wave propagation over the rip current field and the undertow on a sloping beach is evaluated.Numerical results show that the present model makes better predictions of the near-shore wave propagation and complex three-dimensional(3D)near-shore circulation driven by the waves,considering analytical solutions and experimental values.展开更多
基金This work was financially supported by the Science Foundation of National Education Committee of China
文摘Two mathematical models for combined refraction-diffraction of regular and irregular waves on non-uniform current in water of slowly varying topography are presented in this paper. Model I is derived by wave theory and variational principle separately. It has two kinds of expressions including the dissipation term. Model n is based on the energy conservation equation with energy flux through the wave crest lines in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates and the wave kinematic conservation equation. The analysis and comparison and special cases of these two models are also given.
基金Science Foundation of National Education Committee of China
文摘A new numerical finite difference iteration method for refraction-diffraction of waves ia water of slowly varying current and topography is developed in this paper. And corresponding theoretical model including the dissipation term is briefly described, together with some analysis and comparison of computational results of the model with measurements in a hydraulic scale model (Berkhoff et al., 1982). An example of practical use of the method is given, showing that the present model is useful to engineering practice.
文摘To solve problems concerning wave elements and wave propagation, an effective way is the wave energy balance equation, which is widely applied in oceanography and ocean dynamics for its simple computation. The present papaer advances wave energy balance equations considering lateral energy transmission and energy loss as the governing equation for the study of wave refraction-diffraction. For the mathematical model, numerical simulation is made by means of difference method, and the result is verified with two examples.
文摘-Wave refraction-diffraction due to a large ocean structure and topography in the presence of a 'current are studied numerically. The mathematical model is the mild-slope equation developed by Kirby (1984). This equation is solved using a finite and boundary element method. The physical domain is devid-ed into two regions: a slowly varying topography region and a constant water depth region. For waves propagating in the constant water depth region, without current interfering, the mild- slope equation is then reduced to the Helmholtz equation which is solved by boundary element method. In varying topography region, this equation will be solved by finite element method. Conservation of mass and energy flux of the fluid between these two regions is required for composition of these two numerical methods. The numerical scheme proposed here is capable of dealing with water wave problems of different water depths with the main characters of these two methods.
基金Supported by the"85"Foundation of Tsinghua University(No.092213005)
文摘The refraction-diffraction of surface waves due to porous variable depth has been the subject of many investigations. In the present study, we extend the boundary-value problem of impermeable varying topography to that of a variable depth porous seabed, which is the situation most likely to be encountered in practical prob-lems of coastal engineering. A wave-induced fluid motion is applied to the porous bottom, while the well-known linear potential theory is applied to the free-water above the bottom. Eigenfunction expansions are employed to derive the matching condition and the so-called modified dispersion relation. As a result of the porous bottom, the wavenumber becomes a complex value, of which the real part represents the spatial periodicity while the imagi-nary part refers to the energy dissipation. The characteristics of water waves over a porous bottom are studied in detail. By neglecting the non-propagating modes which only have a local effect and damp exponentially with dis-tance, we derive a mathematical model to represent the characteristics of both the wave refraction-diffraction and wave-damping. The developed model is applied to the damping problem of waves over submerged porous breakwaters.
文摘In this paper the parabolic approximation model based on mild-slope equation is used to study wave propagation over a slowly varying and frictional topography under wave-current interaction. A governing equation considering the friction effects is derived by the authors for the first time. A simplified form for the rate of wave energy dissipation is presented on the basis of the wave-current action conservation equation and the bottom friction model given by Yoo and O'connor (1987). Examples reveal that the present computational method can be used for the calculation of wave elements for actual engineering projects with large water areas.
基金supported by the Fund for Creative Research Groups(Grant No.51221961)
文摘Based on the extended mild-slope equation,a large-scale wave module is developed.By combining the eikonal equation and the modified wave action equation,the wave model can account for diffraction in most situations such as in the lee of islands and breakwaters,and using unstructured meshes provides great flexibility for modelling the wave in the complex geomorphology of barriers and islands,also allowing for refinement of the grid resolution within computationally important domains.The numerical implementation of the module is based on the explicit second-order upwind finite-volume schemes in geographic space,the Flux-Corrected Transport(FCT)algorithm in frequency space and the implicit Crank-Nicolson method in directional space.The three-dimensional hydrodynamic module is then modified to couple with the wave model,where the wave readily provides the depth-dependent radiation stress and the wave-induced turbulence coefficient for the current fields,and the wave propagation takes into account the current-induced advection,refraction and diffraction of wave energy and the effect of water level.The applicability of the proposed model to calculate Snell’s Law,wave transformation over the breakwaters and the elliptic shoal,wave propagation over the rip current field and the undertow on a sloping beach is evaluated.Numerical results show that the present model makes better predictions of the near-shore wave propagation and complex three-dimensional(3D)near-shore circulation driven by the waves,considering analytical solutions and experimental values.
