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Large-scale experimental study on scour around both slender and large monopiles under irregular waves
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作者 En-yu Gong Song-gui Chen +2 位作者 Xin Chen Da-wei Guan Jin-hai Zheng 《Water Science and Engineering》 2025年第3期369-377,共9页
Offshore wind power plays a crucial role in energy strategies.The results of traditional small-scale physical models may be unreliable when extrapolated to large field scales.This study addressed this limitation by co... Offshore wind power plays a crucial role in energy strategies.The results of traditional small-scale physical models may be unreliable when extrapolated to large field scales.This study addressed this limitation by conducting large-scale(1:13)experiments to investigate the scour hole pattern and equilibrium scour depth around both slender and large monopiles under irregular waves.The experiments adopted KeuleganeCarpenter number(NKC)values from 1.01 to 8.89 and diffraction parameter(D/L,where D is the diameter of the monopile,and L is the wave length)values from 0.016 to 0.056.The results showed that changes in the maximum scour location and scour hole shape around a slender monopile were associated with NKC,with differences observed between irregular and regular waves.Improving the calculation of NKC enhanced the accuracy of existing scour formulae under irregular waves.The maximum scour locations around a large monopile were consistently found on both sides,regardless of NKC and D/L,but the scour hole topography was influenced by both parameters.Notably,the scour range around a large monopile was at least as large as the monopile diameter. 展开更多
关键词 SCOUR KeuleganeCarpenter number irregular waves Equilibrium scour depth Large-scale test
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Study on Measurement Methods of Multi-Directional Waves—Wave Gauge Array Method 被引量:5
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作者 Yu Yuxiu Liu Shuxue Prof. Department of Civil Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian Assistant Researcher, Department of Civil Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI 1992年第2期233-242,共10页
Measuring multi-directional waves with the wave gauge array is one of the fundamental and easily realised methods. In this paper, the wave gauge array is described and the effects of the gauge spacing, the array orien... Measuring multi-directional waves with the wave gauge array is one of the fundamental and easily realised methods. In this paper, the wave gauge array is described and the effects of the gauge spacing, the array orientations, etc. of the three array arrangements, i. e., linear array, T-type array and pentagon array, on the resolution of the directional spreading of waves, are investigated experimentally. This study can be used as a reference in the experimental study and the field measurement of directional waves. 展开更多
关键词 multi-directional waves measurement method directional spectrum wave gauge array
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Three-Dimensional Model Test for Port Engineering with Multi-Directional Waves 被引量:1
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作者 Yu Yuxiu Liu Shuxue Professor, State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology (DUT), Dalian 116024 Assistant Researcher, State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, DUT, Dalian 116024 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI 1994年第1期51-66,共16页
-The necessity of using irregular waves, especially multi- directional waves to conduct three-dimensional model tests for port engineering and the test method are described in this paper through an example of model te... -The necessity of using irregular waves, especially multi- directional waves to conduct three-dimensional model tests for port engineering and the test method are described in this paper through an example of model test for a port. The test results show that a deep navigation channel has a large effect on the waves in front of the breakwater near the port entrance and on the wave condition in the port. 展开更多
关键词 port engineering three-dimensional model test irregular waves multi-directional waves
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Ray path of head waves with irregular interfaces 被引量:1
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作者 周红 陈晓非 《Applied Geophysics》 SCIE CSCD 2010年第1期66-73,100,共9页
Head waves are usually considered to be the refracted waves propagating along flat interfaces with an underlying higher velocity.However,the path that the rays travel along in media with irregular interfaces is not cl... Head waves are usually considered to be the refracted waves propagating along flat interfaces with an underlying higher velocity.However,the path that the rays travel along in media with irregular interfaces is not clear.Here we study the problem by simulation using a new approach of the spectral-element method with some overlapped elements(SEMO) that can accurately evaluate waves traveling along an irregular interface.Consequently,the head waves are separated from interface waves by a time window.Thus,their energy and arrival time changes can be analyzed independently.These analyses demonstrate that,contrary to the case for head waves propagating along a flat interface,there are two mechanisms for head waves traveling along an irregular interface:a refraction mechanism and transmission mechanism.That is,the head waves may be refracted waves propagating along the interface or transmitted waves induced by the waves propagating in the higher-velocity media.Such knowledge will be helpful in constructing a more accurate inversion method,such as head wave travel-time tomography,and in obtaining a more accurate model of subsurface structure which is very important for understanding the formation mechanism of some special areas,such as the Tibetan Plateau. 展开更多
关键词 head waves irregular interface refracted waves transmitted waves ray path
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Experimental Researches on Reflective and Transmitting Performances of Quarter Circular Breakwater Under Regular and Irregular Waves 被引量:10
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作者 史艳娇 吴米玲 +1 位作者 蒋学炼 李炎保 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI 2011年第3期469-478,共10页
A series of regular and irregular wave experiments are conducted to study the reflective and transmitting performances of quarter circular breakwater (QCB) in comparison with those of semi-circular breakwater (SCB... A series of regular and irregular wave experiments are conducted to study the reflective and transmitting performances of quarter circular breakwater (QCB) in comparison with those of semi-circular breakwater (SCB). Based on regular wave tests, the reflection and transmission characteristics of QCB are analyzed and a few influencing factors are investigated. Then, the wave energy dissipation as wave passing over the breakwater is discussed based on the hydraulic coefficients of QCB and SCB. In irregular wave experiments, the reflection coefficients of QCB and their spectrums are studied. Finally, the comparisons between the experimental results and numerical simulations for QCB under regular and irregular wave conditions are presented. 展开更多
关键词 quarter circular breakwater regular wave irregular wave reflection transmission
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Experimental Study on Local Scour Around A Large Circular Cylinder Under Irregular Waves 被引量:6
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作者 周益人 陈国平 《海洋工程:英文版》 EI 2004年第2期245-256,共12页
A series of physical model tests are conducted for local scour around a circular cylinder of a relatively large diameter (0 15< D/L <0.5) under the action of irregular waves. The laws of change of the topogra... A series of physical model tests are conducted for local scour around a circular cylinder of a relatively large diameter (0 15< D/L <0.5) under the action of irregular waves. The laws of change of the topography around the cylinder are systematically studied. The effects of wave height, wave period, water depth, sediment grain size and cylinder diameter are taken into account. The mechanism of formation of the topography around the cylinder is analyzed. A detailed analysis is given to bed sediment grain size, and it is considered that the depth of scour around the cylinder under wave action is not inversely proportional to the sediment grain diameter. On such a basis, an equation is proposed for calculation of the maximum depth of scour around a cylinder as well as its position under the action of irregular waves. 展开更多
关键词 large circular cylinder local scour irregular waves
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Parametric Resonance Analyses for Spar Platform in Irregular Waves 被引量:2
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作者 YANG He-zhen XU Pei-ji 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI CSCD 2018年第2期236-244,共9页
The parametric instability of a spar platform in irregular waves is analyzed. Parametric resonance is a phenomenon that may occur when a mechanical system parameter varies over time. When it occurs, a spar platform wi... The parametric instability of a spar platform in irregular waves is analyzed. Parametric resonance is a phenomenon that may occur when a mechanical system parameter varies over time. When it occurs, a spar platform will have excessive pitch motion and may capsize. Therefore, avoiding parametric resonance is an important design requirement. The traditional methodology includes only a prediction of the Mathieu stability with harmonic excitation in regular waves. However, real sea conditions are irregular, and it has been observed that parametric resonance also occurs in non-harmonic excitations. Thus, it is imperative to predict the parametric resonance of a spar platform in irregular waves. A Hill equation is derived in this work, which can be used to analyze the parametric resonance under multi-frequency excitations. The derived Hill equation for predicting the instability of a spar can include non-harmonic excitation and random phases. The stability charts for multi-frequency excitation in irregular waves are given and compared with that for single frequency excitation in regular waves. Simulations of the pitch dynamic responses are carried out to check the stability. Three-dimensional stability charts with various damping coefficients for irregular waves are also investigated. The results show that the stability property in irregular waves has notable differences compared with that in case of regular waves. In addition, using the Hill equation to obtain the stability chart is an effective method to predict the parametric instability of spar platforms. Moreover, some suggestions for designing spar platforms to avoid parametric resonance are presented, such as increasing the damping coefficient, using an appropriate RAO and increasing the metacentric height. 展开更多
关键词 spar platform INSTABILITY parametric resonance Mathieu equation irregular waves dynamic responses
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The reflection of regular and irregular waves by a partially perforated caisson breakwater on a step bed 被引量:2
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作者 LIU Yong LIYucheng +1 位作者 TENG Bin XIA Zhisheng 《Acta Oceanologica Sinica》 SCIE CAS CSCD 2009年第4期107-117,共11页
This study examines the reflection of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater located on a step bed. The step bed is treated as an idealized rubble mound foundation. Based on the lin... This study examines the reflection of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater located on a step bed. The step bed is treated as an idealized rubble mound foundation. Based on the linear potential theory, an analytical solution is developed to calculate the reflection coefficient of the structure subjected to regular waves. The matched eigenfunction expansion method is used for the solution. The regular wave method is also extended to irregular waves using a linear transfer function. The calculated results obtained for limiting cases are exactly the same as corresponding results given by the previous researchers. The present predictions also agree well with experimental data in the published literatures. Numerical experiments are conducted to examine the variations of the reflection coefficient versus its main effect factors, and some interesting results are presented. 展开更多
关键词 partially perforated caisson STEP irregular waves reflection coefficient
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Ince-Strutt Stability Charts for Ship Parametric Roll Resonance in Irregular Waves 被引量:2
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作者 ZHANG Xiao YANG He-zhen +1 位作者 XIAO Fei XU Pei-ji 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI CSCD 2017年第4期447-457,共11页
Ince-Strutt stability chart of ship parametric roll resonance in irregular waves is conducted and utilized for the exploration of the parametric roll resonance in irregular waves. Ship parametric roll resonance will l... Ince-Strutt stability chart of ship parametric roll resonance in irregular waves is conducted and utilized for the exploration of the parametric roll resonance in irregular waves. Ship parametric roll resonance will lead to large amplitude roll motion and even wreck. Firstly, the equation describing the parametric roll resonance in irregular waves is derived according to Grim’s effective theory and the corresponding Ince-Strutt stability charts are obtained. Secondly, the differences of stability charts for the parametric roll resonance in irregular and regular waves are compared. Thirdly, wave phases and peak periods are taken into consideration to obtain a more realistic sea condition. The influence of random wave phases should be taken into consideration when the analyzed points are located near the instability boundary. Stability charts for different wave peak periods are various. Stability charts are helpful for the parameter determination in design stage to better adapt to sailing condition. Last, ship variables are analyzed according to stability charts by a statistical approach. The increase of the metacentric height will help improve ship stability. 展开更多
关键词 parametric instability parametric rolling MULTI-FREQUENCY irregular waves Ince-Strutt stability chart
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Oblique and Multi-Directional Random Wave Loads on Vertical Breakwaters 被引量:3
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作者 俞聿修 李本霞 张宁川 《海洋工程:英文版》 2003年第2期189-202,共14页
Extensive 3-D model tests have been performed to study the effects of wave obliquity and multi-directionality on the wave loads acting on vertical breakwaters. The variation of horizontal and uplift forces acting on a... Extensive 3-D model tests have been performed to study the effects of wave obliquity and multi-directionality on the wave loads acting on vertical breakwaters. The variation of horizontal and uplift forces acting on an unit length of a breakwater with wave direction, the longitudinal distribution of wave forces, as well as the longitudinal load reduction are analyzed. Some empirical formulae of the longitudinal distribution coefficient and the longitudinal load reduction factor are presented for practical use. 展开更多
关键词 vertical breakwaters oblique wave multi-directional random wave longitudinal distribution wave forces longitudinal load reduction
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Interaction of Irregular Waves with Vertical Breakwater and Characteristics of Secondary Wave Generated by Overtopping 被引量:2
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作者 HAN Xinyu JIANG Yunpeng DONG Sheng 《Journal of Ocean University of China》 SCIE CAS CSCD 2021年第6期1353-1370,共18页
This study investigated the interaction between irregular waves and vertical breakwater.The main goal was to determine the wave force on the breakwater for different depths,along with the evolution of the secondary wa... This study investigated the interaction between irregular waves and vertical breakwater.The main goal was to determine the wave force on the breakwater for different depths,along with the evolution of the secondary wave generated by overtopping.The open source code DualSPHysics was used in the simulation.Wavelet transform was employed to remove the acoustic components from the weakly compressible smoothed particle hydrodynamics pressure solution.The results of the experiments and simulations showed that although the wave height at the low water level(case 2 was smaller than that at the high water level(case 1,the horizontal and uplifting force of case 2 was higher than that of case 1.In case 2,a large impact pressure occurred because of the plunging wave and wave breaking effects.As the water level was close to the breakwater top in case 1,the secondary wave generated by overtopping was studied.Results indicated that wave and breakwater interactions transfer wave energy from the leading wave component to higher harmonics.Two main harmonics were identified in the secondary wave.The first harmonic was the incident peak frequency,which was still the dominant component.During the wave propagation behind the breakwater,the frequencies of harmonics remained unchanged,but the amplitude of the first harmonic showed an obvious change.Under the same wave condition,the first and second harmonics did not change with depth. 展开更多
关键词 irregular waves vertical breakwater waveLET wave force secondary wave
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Numerical simulation of the propagation of electromagnetic waves in ionospheric irregularities 被引量:4
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作者 Chun Hua Jiang LeHui Wei +2 位作者 GuoBin Yang Chen Zhou ZhengYu Zhao 《Earth and Planetary Physics》 CSCD 2020年第6期565-570,共6页
The characteristics of high-frequency(HF)electromagnetic(EM)wave propagation can be affected when EM waves propagate in the ionosphere.When ionospheric irregularities appear in the ionosphere,they can have a serious i... The characteristics of high-frequency(HF)electromagnetic(EM)wave propagation can be affected when EM waves propagate in the ionosphere.When ionospheric irregularities appear in the ionosphere,they can have a serious impact on the propagation of HF EM waves.In this study,the propagation of HF EM waves in ionospheric irregularities was investigated by numerical simulation.First,a twodimensional model of plasma bubbles was used to produce ionospheric irregularities in the ionosphere.A ray-tracing method was then utilized to simulate the propagation of HF radio waves in these ionospheric irregularities.Results showed that the propagation of HF radio waves in the ionosphere was more complex in ionospheric irregularities than without ionospheric irregularities.In addition,corresponding ionograms were synthesized by radio rays propagated in the ionosphere with these irregularities.The synthesized ionograms were then compared with the experimental ionograms recorded by an ionosonde.Results showed that spread F could be simulated on the ionograms when ionospheric irregularities occurred in the ionosphere.This result was consistent with the ionosonde observations. 展开更多
关键词 electromagnetic waves ray tracing numerical simulation ionospheric irregularities IONOGRAM
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Reflection of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater with a rock-filled core 被引量:1
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作者 LIU Yong LI Yucheng +1 位作者 TENG Bin MA Baolian 《Acta Oceanologica Sinica》 SCIE CAS CSCD 2007年第3期129-141,共13页
The reflection of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater with a rock-filled core is examined. The present mathematical model is developed by means of the matched eigenfunction metho... The reflection of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater with a rock-filled core is examined. The present mathematical model is developed by means of the matched eigenfunction method. Numerical results of the present model are compared with the experimental data of different researchers. Numerical examples are given to examine the effect of rock fill on the reflection coefficient. The differences between regular and irregular waves are also investigated by means of theoretical and experimental results. It is found that the minimum reflection coefficient of irregular waves is larger than that of corresponding regular waves, but the contrary is the case for the maximum reflection coefficient. 展开更多
关键词 reflection coefficient regular waves irregular waves partially perforated caisson reck fill
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Laboratory Study of the Nonlinear Transformation of Irregular Waves over A Mild Slope 被引量:1
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作者 于博 马玉祥 +1 位作者 马小舟 董国海 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI CSCD 2014年第4期489-500,共12页
This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope (1:40). Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this ... This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope (1:40). Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this purpose. The results indicate that the wave heights obey the Rayleigh distribution at the offshore location; however, in the shoaling region, the heights of the largest waves are underestimated by the theoretical distributions. In the surf zone, the wave heights can be approximated by the composite Weibull distribution. In addition, the nonlinear phase coupling within the irregular waves is investigated by the wavelet-based bicoherence. The bicoherence spectra reflect that the number of frequency modes participating in the phase coupling increases with the decreasing water depth, as does the degree of phase coupling. After the incipient breaking, even though the degree of phase coupling decreases, a great number of higher harmonic wave modes are also involved in nonlinear interactions. Moreover, the summed bicoherence indicates that the frequency mode related to the strongest local nonlinear interactions shifts to higher harmonics with the decreasing water depth. 展开更多
关键词 irregular waves shallow water nonlinear interactions wave height distribution wavelet bicoherence
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Hydrodynamic Coefficients for Grouping Piles Under the Action of Irregular Waves 被引量:1
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作者 Yu Yuxiu Shi Xianghong Professor. Department of Civil Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian, 116024 Engineer, Construction Headquarters of Dalian Port, Dalian 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI 1994年第2期123-134,共12页
-The hydrodynamic coefficients for each of two piles and three piles in both side-by-side arrangement and tandem arrangement under the action of irregular waves are experimentally investigated. These coefficients vary... -The hydrodynamic coefficients for each of two piles and three piles in both side-by-side arrangement and tandem arrangement under the action of irregular waves are experimentally investigated. These coefficients vary with the KC number, the relative pile spacing, the number of piles and the pile location, and their relationships are presented in this paper. They can be used in Morison Equation and other equations to calculate directly the in-line wave forces and the transverse forces on each pile in array. 展开更多
关键词 hydrodynamic coefficients pile array wave forces irregular waves
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Computation of Diffraction of Irregular Waves Behind Double Jetty 被引量:1
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作者 Yao Guoquan , Ma Zhixiong and Ding Bingchan Senior Engineer, River and Harbour Department, Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute, Nanjing Assistant Engineer, River and Harbour Department, Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute, Nanjing 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI 1991年第4期429-440,共12页
The coefficient of deffraction of regular waves behind the double jetty has been computed in this paper at first by using the singularity distribution method. The model tests conducted for diffraction of irregular wav... The coefficient of deffraction of regular waves behind the double jetty has been computed in this paper at first by using the singularity distribution method. The model tests conducted for diffraction of irregular waves with a unidirectional frequency spectrum have confirmed good agreement between the data measured in experiments and the results computed by the singularity distribution method plus the linear superposition method for the energy of component waves in the directional frequency spectra. Therefore, this technique for component waves in the directional spectra has been further used to compute diffraction of irregular waves of multidirection, including the employment of a directional distribution function of the cos2 type, as well as the Bretschneider-Misuyann frequency spectrum. 展开更多
关键词 DIFFRACTION irregular waves double jetty ocean engineering
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Impact Pressure of Incident Regular Waves and Irregular Waves on the Subface of Open-Piled Structures 被引量:1
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作者 任冰 王永学 《海洋工程:英文版》 2004年第1期35-46,共12页
This paper presents the results of comparison of impact pressures on open-plied structures induced by regular waves and irregular waves in a laboratory channel. Regular waves with wave heights ranging from 0.1~0.2 m ... This paper presents the results of comparison of impact pressures on open-plied structures induced by regular waves and irregular waves in a laboratory channel. Regular waves with wave heights ranging from 0.1~0.2 m and periods ranging from 1.0~2.0 s are tested. The target spectrum for the irregular wave is JONSWAP spectrum. Irregular waves with significant wave heights in the range of 0.10~0.25 m and peak periods in the range of 1.0~2.0 s are tested. The relative clearance s/H 1/3(H) is between -0.1 and 0.4, s being the subface level of structure model above the still water level. Time series of impact pressure are analyzed to indicate whether the property of impact pressures induced by the regular wave significantly deviates from that by the irregular wave. The distribution of the impact pressure along the underside of the structure is compared for different types of incident waves. The effects of wave parameters, structure dimension and structure clearance on the impact pressure are also discussed. 展开更多
关键词 irregular wave regular wave open-piling impact pressure
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Response Analysis of Tension-Based Tension Leg Platform Under Irregular Waves 被引量:1
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作者 D.S.Bhaskara Rao R.Panneer Selvam 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI CSCD 2016年第4期603-614,共12页
Tension Leg Platform(TLP) is a hybrid structure used as oil drilling and production facility within water depths of 1200 m. The extension of this TLP concept to deeper waters is a challenge and warrants for some inn... Tension Leg Platform(TLP) is a hybrid structure used as oil drilling and production facility within water depths of 1200 m. The extension of this TLP concept to deeper waters is a challenge and warrants for some innovative design concepts. In this paper, a relatively new concept of TLP which is christened as Tension-Based Tension Leg Platform(TBTLP) and patented by Srinivasan(1998) has been chosen for study. Response analysis of TLP with one tension base under irregular waves for three different sea states has been performed using hydrodynamic tool ANSYS? AQWA?. Results are reported in terms of RAOs, response spectrums for surge, heave and pitch degrees of freedom from which spectral statistics have been obtained. The statistics of TBTLP have been compared with TLPs(without tension base) for two different water depths to highlight the features of the new concept. The effect of viscous damping and loading effects on the RAOs are also investigated. 展开更多
关键词 Tension-Based Tension Leg Platform irregular waves time domain response response amplitudeoperators SPECTRUM STATISTICS coupled analysis
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Numerical Investigation on the Generation and Propagation of Irregular Waves in A Two-Dimensional Wave Tank 被引量:1
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作者 Ruey-syanSHIH Chung-renCHOU JohnZ.YIM 《海洋工程:英文版》 EI 2004年第4期551-566,共16页
The modeling of generation and subsequent propagation of irregular waves in a numerical wave flume is performed by mean of the boundary element method. Random waves are generated by a piston-type wave generator at one... The modeling of generation and subsequent propagation of irregular waves in a numerical wave flume is performed by mean of the boundary element method. Random waves are generated by a piston-type wave generator at one end of the flume with the Mitsuyasu-Bretschneider spectrum used as the target spectrum for the generation. An artificial absorbing beach is placed at the other end of the flume to minimize wave reflection. Surface fluctuations are described by use of the Lagrangian description, and finite difference is adopted for the approximation of time derivative. To monitor the developments of the waves, a number of pseudo wave gauges are installed along the tank. Through comparison of the spectra from those gauges with the target spectrum, satisfactory results can be obtained from the present numerical scheme. 展开更多
关键词 numerical wave tank irregular waves absorbing beach
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Statistical Analyses of Wave Height Distribution for Multidirectional Irregular Waves over A Sloping Bottom 被引量:1
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作者 GAO Jun-liang CHEN Hong-zhou +2 位作者 MEI Li-li LIU Zhen LIU Qian 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI CSCD 2021年第4期504-517,共14页
The main objective of this paper is to examine the influences of both the principal wave direction and the directional spreading parameter of the wave energy on the wave height evolution of multidirectional irregular ... The main objective of this paper is to examine the influences of both the principal wave direction and the directional spreading parameter of the wave energy on the wave height evolution of multidirectional irregular waves over an impermeable sloping bottom and to propose an improved wave height distribution model based on an existing classical formula.The numerical model FUNWAVE 2.0,based on a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation,is employed to simulate the propagation of multidirectional irregular waves over the sloping bottom.Comparisons of wave heights derived from wave trains with various principal wave directions and different directional spreading parameters are conducted.Results show that both the principal wave direction and the wave directional spread have significant influences on the wave height evolution on a varying coastal topography.The shoaling effect for the wave height is obviously weakened with the increase of the principal wave direction and with the decrease of the directional spreading parameter.With the simulated data,the classical Klopman wave height distribution model is improved by considering the influences of both factors.It is found that the improved model performs better in describing the wave height distribution for the multidirectional irregular waves in shallow water. 展开更多
关键词 wave height distribution multidirectional waves irregular waves sloping bottom FUNwave 2.0 model
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