Beach morphodynamic classifications have achieved extensive acceptance in foreign coastal geomorphological studies. Three beaches located in different zones of a headland-bay coast are classified according to a dimens...Beach morphodynamic classifications have achieved extensive acceptance in foreign coastal geomorphological studies. Three beaches located in different zones of a headland-bay coast are classified according to a dimensionless fall parameter, a relative tide range parameter and a dimensionless embayment scaling parameter. Synchronous data, including wave, tide, sediment and beach morphology, are respectively collected from the tangential beach, the transitional beach and the shadow beach of the Shuidong Bay during each spring tide for 16 successive months. The research results indicate that （1） the beach in the tangential zone falls between two major categories which are low tide terrace beaches with rips and barred beaches; the beach in the transitional zone exhibits two main types which are low tide bar/rip beaches and barred dissipative beaches; and the beach in the shadow zone mainly mirrors dissipative states with presence or absence of bars; and （2） the sequential changes and differences of beach states in different coastal zones reflect spatial and temporal variabilities of the headland- bay coast, totally meeting the actual measured beach morphology changes, showing that studies on wave- dominated, meso-macrotidal beaches need to consider the influences of the tides. Meanwhile, the research mainly provides a framework about beach state studies, due to different beach states with different erosion patterns, which requires the need to strengthen the researches in this respect, in order to further enrich theoretical basis for a beach topography evolution, beach morphodynamic processes and beach erosion orevention in China.展开更多
Currently beach morphodynamic classification is the most important foundation to conduct associated coastal geomorphological studies.This paper carried out beach morphodynamic classifications for 12 straight beaches o...Currently beach morphodynamic classification is the most important foundation to conduct associated coastal geomorphological studies.This paper carried out beach morphodynamic classifications for 12 straight beaches on headland-bay coasts based on field survey and evaluated the applicability of the most widely used dimensional fall velocity parameter(Ω)and relative tidal range parameter(RTR).One reflective,five intermediate and six non-barred dissipative beaches were visually classified and sand size seemed to be a key factor to differentiate these beaches.The studied beaches were in relatively low wave energy environments(Hs<1 m)and the absolute deep-water wave energy level of P0=3 KWm-1 was supposed to a critical threshold to characterize the applicability of theΩand RTR parameters.These two morphodynamic parameters were applicable for the beaches with P0>3 KWm-1 and MSR<2 m.It was found that the model of the traditional winter-and-summer profiles was not applicable in the study area in despite of distinct wave seasonality.The studied beaches were more possible to hover around a limited range due to relatively low background wave environments and variability without considering typhoon impacts,which needs further research on actual breaker wave conditions and beach morphodynamic type responses to typhoon events.展开更多
基金The National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract No.41301005the Postdoctoral Science Foundation of China under contract No.2014M552118
文摘Beach morphodynamic classifications have achieved extensive acceptance in foreign coastal geomorphological studies. Three beaches located in different zones of a headland-bay coast are classified according to a dimensionless fall parameter, a relative tide range parameter and a dimensionless embayment scaling parameter. Synchronous data, including wave, tide, sediment and beach morphology, are respectively collected from the tangential beach, the transitional beach and the shadow beach of the Shuidong Bay during each spring tide for 16 successive months. The research results indicate that （1） the beach in the tangential zone falls between two major categories which are low tide terrace beaches with rips and barred beaches; the beach in the transitional zone exhibits two main types which are low tide bar/rip beaches and barred dissipative beaches; and the beach in the shadow zone mainly mirrors dissipative states with presence or absence of bars; and （2） the sequential changes and differences of beach states in different coastal zones reflect spatial and temporal variabilities of the headland- bay coast, totally meeting the actual measured beach morphology changes, showing that studies on wave- dominated, meso-macrotidal beaches need to consider the influences of the tides. Meanwhile, the research mainly provides a framework about beach state studies, due to different beach states with different erosion patterns, which requires the need to strengthen the researches in this respect, in order to further enrich theoretical basis for a beach topography evolution, beach morphodynamic processes and beach erosion orevention in China.
基金National Science Foundation of China,No.41301005,No.41701011Postdoctoral Science Foundation of China,No.2014M552118China Scholarship Council,No.201608410419。
文摘Currently beach morphodynamic classification is the most important foundation to conduct associated coastal geomorphological studies.This paper carried out beach morphodynamic classifications for 12 straight beaches on headland-bay coasts based on field survey and evaluated the applicability of the most widely used dimensional fall velocity parameter(Ω)and relative tidal range parameter(RTR).One reflective,five intermediate and six non-barred dissipative beaches were visually classified and sand size seemed to be a key factor to differentiate these beaches.The studied beaches were in relatively low wave energy environments(Hs<1 m)and the absolute deep-water wave energy level of P0=3 KWm-1 was supposed to a critical threshold to characterize the applicability of theΩand RTR parameters.These two morphodynamic parameters were applicable for the beaches with P0>3 KWm-1 and MSR<2 m.It was found that the model of the traditional winter-and-summer profiles was not applicable in the study area in despite of distinct wave seasonality.The studied beaches were more possible to hover around a limited range due to relatively low background wave environments and variability without considering typhoon impacts,which needs further research on actual breaker wave conditions and beach morphodynamic type responses to typhoon events.
